Any special tools required? Piston retractor, thread lock, copper grease, for example?

Retractor and copperslip, I have both here if you need a shot Fairly easy other than that.

Thanks, Derek. I'll be in touch when the discs arrive. I don't have any particular worries about the job - I once changed the rear discs and pads on a P6 Rover :eek::eek::eek:

Discs & pads arrived today. Genuine Mintex. £65 all in from Interpart in Manchester :thumbup:

youll need a hefty allan key for the rear calipers mate.

when i las did my rears i boke 2 tryin to get them off in end went to the mech.

I don't recall any allen keys when changing pads/disks on the rear. The fronts use 7mm alley key bolts though.

youll need a hefty allan key for the rear calipers mate.

when i las did my rears i boke 2 tryin to get them off in end went to the mech.

Any idea of the size?

Just PM'd you all you should need Alan

good job someone new. none were a very large alan key, cant say size.

soz hope you sort them out ok.

would have got the whole set out and tried them one by one myself?

From memory its an 8mm allen key, needed to remover the caliper carrier.

On the vRS you have to remove the carrier, non vented rears you dont.

On the vRS you have to remove the carrier, non vented rears you dont.

Well there you go, I now know I wasted half an hour remving the damn things for no purpose, I was happy not knowing that you know.

Must be fairly tight to get them out as mine did not seem to want to come.

The thinner non vented discs just pitch over and slide out.

As the vRS discs are thicker they wont come over the hub to slide out.

You'll need the proper piston wind back tool aswell.

I tried for hours to get the rear pistons back in!! First tried pushing, with no luck, then tried turning, with no luck. Eventually bought the tool and realised you have to push really hard and turn at the same time!

Bloody Haynes manual was WRONG! Mr. Haynes says you can just use some circlip pliers to screw them back in! The bloody liar! Outrage.

You dont need to remove the handbrake cable either, like haynes says. Just take the handbrake off, and it goes slack enough.

On the vRS you have to remove the carrier, non vented rears you dont.

That explains why I was sure I had not take the carrier off when I changes the disks on my TDi.

On the vRS you have to remove the carrier, non vented rears you dont.

I have hex head sockets - assuming I can get access might be better than an Allen key? Would also be able to torque then back up again.

I have hex head sockets - assuming I can get access might be better than an Allen key? Would also be able to torque then back up again.

They were very tight on mine and had to give them a few whacks with the hammer which is better on an allen key than a ratchet.