Hi everyone

here a big problem now

a few months ago (December) my 1996 Felicia burned the clutch disk, I took it to the service center and the guy say the he would have to replace: The clutch disk, the clutch plate, and the bearing.

when he was done the car moved ok but I had to kick the pedal all the way down for it to clutch correctly. I got it back to the service and he say "well, I let it that way on purpose. That way you will not burn it again"

two weeks latter it did not clutch at all got it back, he adjusted a little the clutch cable and it worked back again (but always had to kick it all the way down)

One day I've tried to adjust the cable in order to get it more flexible and realized that the cable was at the most adjustable position (could not adjust it any longer) and then I started to think the guy just trick me up and did not replaced all the things he say (and billed me). then I did a little "genius" job with a supplement and get a way to adjust the clutch cable.

The difference was AWESOME, until the cable Broke up about 3 weeks ago. I then replaced the cable and 2 nights ago, when I clutch it makes a horrible sound like QUI-QUI-QUI-QUI and it do not get any gear shifts, only shifts when the engine is turned off.

any Ideas?

I just plan to unmount the gearbox by my self, and try to fix whatever I can find....

one way you can increase the length of adjustment on the clutch cable is to put in some washers between the rubber piece and the adjusting nut...

the noise you can hear might be the pedal

At a guess when the cable snapped, the recoil has dislodged the release arm from the release bearing. If this is the case then the gearbox will have to come out

one way you can increase the length of adjustment on the clutch cable is to put in some washers between the rubber piece and the adjusting nut...

the noise you can hear might be the pedal

Thanks for answering so fast...

the "genius" job I mentioned was something like that you just describe. Sadly, I think mi problem is a little deeper than that. The noise I hear is from inside the gearbox

At a guess when the cable snapped, the recoil has dislodged the release arm from the release bearing. If this is the case then the gearbox will have to come out

Thanks for your answer.

You call the "release arm" to the metal piece that is moved by the cable when i clutch? because I once though that it was the problem (that the guy at service did not placed it in its correct position)

i agree with rigsby... it's possible that the release bearing has got jammed on the end of the guide sleeve

i agree with rigsby... it's possible that the release bearing has got jammed on the end of the guide sleeve

Thanks all of you ...

It seems I would HAVE to unmount the gearbox.

do you know where could I get a graphic or a picture of the gearbox? like those on service manuals... with parts names and position?

tom is that a 1300 gear box end mount?

no it's a 1600 one, but they are interchangeable anyway

When my cable snapped it was because the rubber had split and the cable was chafing against the bulkhead. The cable then unwinded and the clutch pedal didn't come back up again.

What cable did they use?

Cause I bought one cable and the pedal was stiff and when that snapped I got another clutch cable this time it was Skoda/VW branded and the pedal was a lot smoother and easier to operate.

When my cable snapped it was because the rubber had split and the cable was chafing against the bulkhead. The cable then unwinded and the clutch pedal didn't come back up again.

What cable did they use?

Cause I bought one cable and the pedal was stiff and when that snapped I got another clutch cable this time it was Skoda/VW branded and the pedal was a lot smoother and easier to operate.

Hi,

I bought a spare cable, but I don't remember the brand. However, the problem wasn't pedal movement (it was smooth enough) but the clutching system. I had to feet the pedal until it hit the floor; other way it wouldn't shift the speed.

I think I understand now.

Normally theres some play in the pedal right?

So it engages somewhere like 3/4 or maybe halfway (although they do say you should be able to depress the pedal fully down)

I once had a mechanic "suggest" I was putting water into my brake fluid needless to say he didn't get my custom again.

On the original point, I think the mechanic made a "Horlicks" of the installation, but he did actually use all the parts. The most likely dodges to save time/money would involve not replacing some of the parts, which would give you a high engagement point, not a low one.

When I had my clutch done everything got changed as chances are if the release plate failed chances are something else prob would later on. Its more time efficient having it all changed at once whilst the gearbox is off rather than stripping it later to change something at a later date.

do you know where could I get a graphic or a picture of the gearbox? like those on service manuals... with parts names and position?

Online spareparts catalogue for AUDI/Volkswagen/Skoda/Seat

You will have to register to access the catalogue but it does have very good illustrations with part names.

Online spareparts catalogue for AUDI/Volkswagen/Skoda/Seat

You will have to register to access the catalogue but it does have very good illustrations with part names.

Man, that site is AWESOME, it has almost all graphics with part-names and reference. THANKS A LOT.

At another hand, I've just unmounted my gearbox and found the bearing completely destroyed, which means the cover plate was damaged too. so I thing I'm going tomorrow morning to buy a kit with plate-disc-bearing. Think have no other option.

talk to you latter to tell how I did :confused:

Hi all

Here are the pictures of what I Found and the new Items:

old Bearing

the Friction Plate

MORE

Friction Plate

very dirty flywheel

Dust residues removed form inside the flywheel

New bearing

MORE

Old Clutch Disk (to me is very good, even better than the new one)

New Clutch Disk

New Plate

Gearbox After a little Clean up

MORE

flywheel after a cleanup

new clutch disk

Now that I know how the clutch works, I think that the root of all my problems come from the clutch pedal.

When I changed the clutch cable, I realized (as said before) that it has no space to be adjusted. That's because the clutch pedal tends to be down (the spring on the pedal Push it downwards).

So I have to Pull the cable very hard (when mounting) for it to load the clutch pedal up enough.

Now I understand that pulling the cable to much stick the bearing to the friction plate and that caused the damage you can see in the picture of the friction plate (and of course, in the bearing). because it's always stick over it and is always in friction and rolling.

So, now I think to find a way to get the clutch pedal work like the break pedal (that get up back again when it's released).

Any Ideas or Suggestions?

There's usually a return spring on the clutch pedal, which may be weak or broken.

If there isn't one there, then the old diaphragm spring may be weak.

I would have a good look at the pedal return spring, as it sounds incorrectly fitted...

there is a return spring on the pedal but it doesn't do an awefull lot, i broke mine off ages ago and it still works fine, from the looks of the pics above, the old release bearing is mullered