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Network cable question

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I've had the builder run a cable up too my loft for the network and I want fit a wall mount will this do the job RJ45 Modular Wall Outlets > Maplin

I'm going to wire up the other end to my router in my office downstairs. I've got a crimp tool and some plugs ready. How do I match the colours on the wall mount socket to the plug end (does that make sense ???).

Any help greatly appriacated as I have never tried any thing like this before and I'm colour blind which could be interesting:O

Yup, that will do fine.

There are two "standards" of wiring: 568A and 568B.

Generally, people wire to 568B standard at both ends. If you do one of each at either end, you end up with a crossover cable :D

The krone connections will require the punchdown tool which you already have. Each connection on the modular jack will be colour coded to the required cable.

Take a look here: How to Make Your Own Network Cables - Network Cable Color Code Standards

Also, don't be tempted to use your own pinout schema, if you mix the twisted pairs, the performance won't be very good.

If you already have the cable, you'll see that you have 4 pairs or two. Each pair is a main colour and a white stripe interleaving. So for example, you have orange and orange/white make up one pair. Other colours used are: green, brown and blue. Don't get the green and blue mixed up :eek:

edit: it doesn't matter if you use the 568A or 568B, as long as you're consistent. Modern switches will have what's known as auto-MDX which means they automatically detect the type of cable and so even if you plug in a cross over cable, it will still work. Bt that'll depend on your switch. Best to chose either 568A or 568B for all your loft-room cabling and stick to it :D

The drawing on the linked web page shows 568A but I've always for some reason used 568B. I think there's a general tendancy to use the B version (starts with stripey orange / orange pair as you go along).

I've done my whole house with this, and have a patch panel up in the attick with an 8 port gigabit switch. I have around a dozen sockets around the place so that's why I resorted to a patch panel until a 12-port switch becomes affordable. Am I a geek? :o :O :o

Edited by tfboy

Just to confirm - does that mean there's a wall plate in the loft, and a loose cable end hanging near the router? If that's the case I'd be tempted to wire *that* to a wall plate too (the colours are almost always printed on the back of the plate for easy connecting) and then just use standard patch cables from the plate to the devices.

Also, if you want to do it "properly", for any inter-area cabling which goes between patch panels, it should be solid cable.

Then the cable from the patch panel or wall socket to the computer should be a patch cable using stranded wires.

It might be worthwhile checking what type of cabling the chap is proposing to use. Also, depending on the conduits / route of the cable, might as well also ask him to put either a second cable or a draw wire so you can always add more later if you need to.

But you'll pick this up easily.

Remember:

This is me

This is your new understanding

This is your loft

This is your cable

This is your socket

This is your previous understanding

;)

  • Author

Thanks Xav

So I just need a straight thru 568a type connection for the plug which is going into the router.

Then in the loft end I go into the back of the wall mount following the colour scheme on the back of the unit ???

This will then allow me to plug in a cable to the wall which goes straight into the pc ???? and keeps my daughter happilly browsing and no longer complaining that the wireless doesn't work.

Sorry for the tard questions

  • Author
Just to confirm - does that mean there's a wall plate in the loft, and a loose cable end hanging near the router? .

Nearly ........I have a cable with a plug in the loft which I was going too cut off and wall mount and in my office I have a the other end with no plug as I cut it off to allow the electrician to feed it through the house.

So if I use a wall mount in my office and just match the terminals with the one in the loft I could save myself a bit work ????

  • Author

Remember:

This is me

This is your new understanding

This is your loft

This is your cable

This is your socket

This is your previous understanding

;)

I'm getting there quietly :o

Yup, that's it in a nutshell :)

If I were you, I'd make sure you leave plently of slack at the loft end if you're crimping the RJ45 connector straight on the end and not using a patch panel (which would be overkil for just one connection).

Crimping RJ45 take a bit of skill to make sure you get it right. Ideally, you want the outer sheath to be snagged by the crimp at the opening end of the cable, yet still ensure all 8 wires are firmly against the other end so that when you crimp and get the prongs to bite down and make contact, all 8 cables are past the "teeth". It's very easy to have all 4 pairs fully inserted, you go to crimp to realise one has sneekily come out a bit and has missed the biting contact.

When I make them, I always strip the outer sheath a lot more than required - 3 to 4cm. That gives you enough wires to split them apart and line them up in the correct order, ready for inserting into the RJ45 plug. Then put them into the plug. The channels will help straighten and align the wires. Then pull out, and cut off the ends with a decent pair of snips. You'll now have all your ends aligned / individual wires the same length which will help make sure you have a solid insertion and biting contact. Then just insert into RJ45 again, and remove and trim with the snips until the outer sheath is snug inside the RJ45 whilst the wires are still fully butted against the contact end.

Happy crimping :D

Think Xav has covered everything.... no need for me to repeat. But the answer to you last question...yes

  • Author

When I make them, I always strip the outer sheath a lot more than required - 3 to 4cm. That gives you enough wires to split them apart and line them up in the correct order, ready for inserting into the RJ45 plug. Then put them into the plug. The channels will help straighten and align the wires. Then pull out, and cut off the ends with a decent pair of snips. You'll now have all your ends aligned / individual wires the same length which will help make sure you have a solid insertion and biting contact. Then just insert into RJ45 again, and remove and trim with the snips until the outer sheath is snug inside the RJ45 whilst the wires are still fully butted against the contact end.

Happy crimping :D

I was going to do few trial runs, thanks for the tips :thumbup::thumbup:

Sorry, when you mention crimp tool what do you mean? Any photo / pic?

You need two different tools: the RJ45 crimper which looks like a pair of pliars and also a Krone IDC punch down tool for pushing the wires into the RJ45 socket you're installing.

If you don't have the latter, you may have a plastic version if you recently bought any telephone extension sockets - they use the same principle.

Krone IDC punch down tool:

Amazon.co.uk: KRONE Type IDC Punch Down Tool Telephone/Cat5 Insertion: Electronics & Photo

or from Maplins:

Telecom Impact Tool > Maplin

I'd recommend the Amazon version - it's the proper job professionals use and also has handy pull-out flat screwdriver and hook for pulling out already-punched-down cables.

RJ45 crimp tool:

Crimp Tool for Modular RJ45 Connectors > Maplin

From Amazon:

Crimp Tool for RJ45 plugs/Cat5e Network Patch Cables: Electronics & Photo: Amazon.co.uk

There's always the classic bodge if you find yourself without a punchdown tool, and that's to use an unwanted one of those plastic cards you find all over the place.. loyalty cards, etc. Because it's soft it'll punch the cable whilst allowing the blades to cut in to the card material so they don't open up. You'll need to manually chop the long ends of the wires off afterwards.

It really is a last ditch way of doing it though, once all else has failed.. or you're working on a remote site and realise what is missing from your kit ;)

Does it make me a geek to have all that too :rofl:

Does it make me a geek to have all that too :rofl:

No, you're an uber-geek.

I didn't get round to installing airconditioning in my loft to keep all my folding servers cool :P

I just found one of these in my draw in work IPC Insertion Tool > Maplin.......any good ????

And I have one these in the house Crimp Tool for Modular RJ45 Connectors > Maplin

Am I in the right ball park ????

Yes :thumbup:

The IPC Insertion tool is the plastic jobby I was referring to when talking about telephone socket extensions earlier on.

It'll do the job, but being plastic, the bits that push the cable in will wear / bend / distort to a point that it'll be "blunt" and unusable. But as you already have it, might as well use it :D

Your RJ45 crimper is the same one I have :thumbup:

You can get a heavy duty punchdown tool from maplin too if you're going to be doing a fair bit of this. :)

  • Author

Update .......

Got half the job done, I now have a wall mounted socket down stairs and I crimped a cable up (surprisingly easier than it looks they just slide in to the connector real easy). All teated and working so far.:thumbup::thumbup:

Just need to do the wall mount in the loft now and make another cable up.

I got one these 15102008476-1.jpg

And therefore some more questions ...lol

15102008477-1.jpg

Is the top bit which i've sort of circled supposed too cut of the excess wire or summat and what aim of the catch which realeases the little metal bar which pop up into the jaws of the top bit.....again sorry for the noob Q's and thanks for the help fella's.

Yes, the cutter is supposed to trim excess cable off once terminated. You can get them (looks like you have one) with a bar to stop the cutter working for whatever reason, i'm guessing so you can krone the cable down and then go on and krone it also in a different place.

  • Author

Hhhhm, mine doesn't appear to want to trim the ends off

You have to push the tool down really quite hard, probably about 5kg's worth of force. They produce a very distinctive clack sound at which point the cutter things springs shut and cuts the cable. There's about 7-8mm of "travel" so if you only push the wire down 2-3mm, you probably haven't pushed enough :D

It can be a bit tricky with just a single flimsy RJ45 socket - best to rest it on something - that punch down tool, if it slips, can be quite an effective weapon at making holes in flesh :eek: ;)

Edit: make sure you punch the cable down the right way.

The cable should be in the central channel of the connector and then split the individual wires so that four go each side. The wide (non-cutter bit) end of the tool is what goes in the central channel. The wire rests over the top, going outwards. The cutter end then cuts off any excess on the external end.

Hope that makes sense

          -----
handle     |   |
          |   |
           \ /
            *****
           /   **
           |   **
cutter ->  x    **
           |v|    |v|
outside     |v|ins-|v| outside
           |v|ide |v|
           |v|    |v|
           xxxxxxxxxx
           xxxxxxxxxx
  -----------      -----------
--------------      ------------  front "faceplate"
--------------      ------------
--------------______------------

excuse my poor ascii drawing skilz :o :P

Edited by tfboy

Blimey fatty... you are getting technical these days.. is this to up your game by lowering latency when COD5 comes out? :rofl:

  • Author
Blimey fatty... you are getting technical these days.. is this to up your game by lowering latency when COD5 comes out? :rofl:

I'm quite technical when I want too be :cool:

And I don't need lower latency to cap yo a$$ with your peasant connection .5meg :rofl::rofl:

excuse my poor ascii drawing skilz :o :P

Thanks Xav

I'll check it out again later when I do the loft wallplate

Your ascii skillz are better than my crayola skillz anyday of the week :o

COD5.. i will own you all at that as well!

BOOOOOOOOOM HEADSHOT!

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