i'm still getting bad fuel economy, thou not as much as before, i'm now getting 42km/g (32mpg (imp) 9.1L/100km) this is the changes made

full service (filters plugs, oil and trans oil)

switch to 92ROZ gasoline (as recommended by manual)

Valve clearance set to 0.25mm 0.20mm

ignition set by strobe light

changed HT leads and coil

fitted thermostat

carb cleaned and tune

any ideas ?

i only get 35 mpg in my favorit, mines not carb and drove moderately quick

Check your driving style, tyre pressures, and make sure you have no binding brakes. Do you do a lot of stop/start/town driving? Make sure your clutch isn't slipping.

32mpg is a good figure for carb in a hot climate

32mpg is a good figure for carb in a hot climate

actualy is 32 mpg (imperial), 26 mpg (us)

you guys get 40-45 mpg (imp) thats too much of a diference just because is hotter, i mean, i know it affects fuel economy, but not by that much, i mean 35 % less, that too much

Re: Effect of air temperature on fuel economy?

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I've been tracking this for 1 1/2 years, recording every single trip in the car. I have 683 data points.

75-85 degrees is best.

above 85 is next best.

below 75 is third best, tapering down to about 45.

below 45 is simply bad.

according to this, i should be getting the best FE of all

Edited 15 January, 200917 yr by Cepheuz

i only get 35 mpg in my favorit, mines not carb and drove moderately quick

i drive granny style, never over 80km/h (60mph) and dont accelerate fast or push the car

Make sure you haven't got 4 mates in the car with you

Hey Cepheuz , this photo is from the manual:thumbup:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/7bbde023692245

Sorry about the pic i hope it is fixed now

Edited 16 January, 200917 yr by Tolen

Make sure you haven't got 4 mates in the car with you

lol. indeed, or half a ton of stuff in the trunk, jejeje

nop, most of the time is only me, and some of te time is me and my mom (cus i dont want to lend her the car, jajajaja, thats why i'm trying to get another one, i dont want to share jajaja)

Hey Cepheuz , this photo is from the manual:thumbup:

thanks tolen, but... wheres the pic

i only get 35 mpg in my favorit, mines not carb and drove moderately quick

for moderate speeds your getting 8.07L/100km, (if the mpg is on imperial) and thats ok, but i drive slow, if i drive like you it goes to 28mpg (imperial) since i did do a "briskier" run

mine is better on fuel the faster i go, about 28 mpg at 60, and 32+ at 70

Hi Briskodians!

I noticed different things on my fuel consumption...

I was driving like Cepheus... Granny style! Most of the time hitting next gear when RPM around 2500-2700, not much, and having 8-9 liters/ 100 kms on city driving style...

But when I start driving a motorway, it just drops... (Trip to Spain through France highways = 5 liters / 100 kms with the car heavy loaded, RPM around 3000 all the way)

So, I decided to change my driving style a bit... Pushing the RPM a bit more, but still staying in the "green" RPM range. And now, I'm getting 7ish liters / 100kms...

It's a MPi engine, by the way...

Got to admit i push my little felly hard driving to the red line quiet often and still getting about 30/35 mpg out of it, don't worry to much about mpg the car is to much fun to drive slowley. My old cars were proper gas guzzlers about 20 mpg at best so this car sips it and i still have fun love the sound of that pushrod,

Here is an intresting thing, didn't use the car over christmas so i disconnected the battery and left it for about 2 weeks. Reconnected it and started using it again driving it slowley and sensibly :confused: must have had a relapse and the economy seemed worse and the performance was flat no get up go, then the relapse passed and i was back to normal (nothing to do with hassling an ignorant Audi tdci on the motorway, its such a shame that new cars don't have mirrors or indicators that work!!!!!!!!!!!!) and the after a thrash the performance came back and the economy got a bit better. I wonder if the ECU has a learning program in it and adapts to the way you drive and alters fuelling and timing according to the demands impossed by the driver, anyone know????????

By the way early spi:thumbup:

I'd be surprised if the ECU "learns", and I just know that's not Tonny's issue anyway!

indeed i have a carb, no computer, i tryed to thrash it a bit, i change gears from 1500 to 2500 (depending on the trafic and the condition)but mostly at 2000 rpm i left the gears for a wile on the green line (2000 to 3500) and it was briskier, but did not feel torque or anything (with the ignition time by strobe, if i do it by vacuum and but i definetly feel torque)

anyways, i'm realy bafled at all of this, i mean, poor mpg, and not a lot of torque but spark reads good, and everything is checked

im very tempted to go to a dyno and tune the engine there, to me dyno is the best way to tune ignition and carbs together, and the valves are ok, checked hot and cold

About the only idea I've got left, if you feel confident to try it, would be to warm the engine, swing the dissie until you get the highest idle speed you can, then back down the throttle stop to get the slowest smooth idle you can. That's how I used to tune carbie engines back in the day, and most people I knew with an engine tuned that way could better the test figures.

:iagree: Back in the day used keep turning the dizzy to advance so that the engine could just be heard pinking very slightly at 30 mph in 4th foot flat on floor. Well remembered Ken proper old school:thumbup:

:)How are you measuring your fuel consumption? The only accurate way is to brim the tank, do a certain amount of miles and brim the tank again. Don't rely on the fuel guage to work out fuel consumption.

:)How are you measuring your fuel consumption? The only accurate way is to brim the tank, do a certain amount of miles and brim the tank again. Don't rely on the fuel guage to work out fuel consumption.

i put two gallons in ad drive till i have no more gas... simple, crude, but effective

i have google map earth and trace my travels, and check it with the odometer,

if you think thats not acurate enough i don't know what is...

but its always exactly 2 gallons (us) that i put in

About the only idea I've got left, if you feel confident to try it, would be to warm the engine, swing the dissie until you get the highest idle speed you can, then back down the throttle stop to get the slowest smooth idle you can. That's how I used to tune carbie engines back in the day, and most people I knew with an engine tuned that way could better the test figures.

i found one thing in all this ordeal

when doing troubleshooting, you need to set the ignition timing with a strobe gun, but afterward, vacuum is the only thing that's gona do it right (or a dyno witch is #1)

i now have a constant and steady 22 inches of mercury and good torque and no pinging

there are a lot of things that afect timing, and the computer handles automaticaly, but for a carb, you need to set the spark gap to the needed ammount, then advances the timing for you specific fuel, the more ROZ, the more advanced the timing needs to be, fail to do it, and your not getting the best out of your gasoline

so thanks ken, did it this morning while fitting the new fuel sender, also found out i need to do a total disasemble to the carburetor, fuel here sucks and its been cloggin everything including the vacuum ports so i will disasemble, fix weights vacuum ports, jets and the float and i bet the problem will be solved

if you think thats not acurate enough i don't know what is...

Only trying to help, I never said that anything you were doing was not accurate.

Only trying to help, I never said that anything you were doing was not accurate.

no man, jesus, sorry, i din't mean it that way, is just that i was just wandering to myself if there could be a even better way....

sorry man, no thanks, i realy apreciate the help all of you guys have given me, i mena, think about it, i'm getting 42km/g, before it was 19km/g its a biiiiiggg help

ok guys, here my idea, since i'm now convinced that is the carburetor

it has 4 systems, idle, main, transfer and load

idle has two jets, one that meters the air to mix and another that atomizes the gasoline, i think the air is ok, but the fuel atomizer is a little clogged, so i have to turn the screw 6 to 8 times instead of 3 to 4 (full turns) so air mix is getting off

ported vacuum ports are clogged, and enrichment valve is leaking, so pinging comes since is getting more air instead of a richer mix

main jet is not so ok, so is not atomizing well, hence, fuel is unburned or burnt incorrectly

transfer is ok...

float valve might be sticky, letting more fuel in that needed, causing flooding

any of these might give me bad FE and torque drop, so witch one do you think it is, or should i just disassemble the hole carburetor, dip it on acetone (or other carb cleaner solution) replace vacuum hoses and adjust float, and replace seals ?

The point about strobe timing, or my "by ear" method" is that they're both dynamic timing methods, and therefore allow you to remove any wear in the dirtributor as a variable in the timing.

I've never heard of timing an engine by vacumn depression before though?