At last I have spent some money (other than ICE) and have now become the proud owner of brakes that work! I even got these under warranty as the old ones were 'binding' and were bloody awful - dealer went half way and paid for half the cost of new discs and pads all round. Not bedded in yet but these are so much better than what I had before that it is a different car.

Excellent!

Second, a popped up to Star Peformance on their Seat open day on the 24th and got a new filter fitted (K+N) and I (think!) I have actually noticed a slight difference in the responsiveness of the throttle - is this to be expected? No real noticeable difference in noise levels or anything like that but it does seem a little 'crisper'.

Quality!

Now onto the serious stuff! Still have some dosh to splash and require some additional input from you 'seasoned pros'. Got some costings on what I am classing as my stage one (a) up grades and ( grades and just wanted to see what your thoughts were on my plans

Spoke to one of the guys at Star (not Jim) and he thought the following would be possible for my 2000 SLX (150 bhp) Octavia:

a)remap:

... Any help greatly appreciated.

Think Nick (ncarring) is the man to ask on this as I think the SLX is what he has as well.

I believe you DON'T have drive-by-wire that's why your are limited to around 190-200bhp.

Exhaust- cat back I presume...good price at

i'd have the exhaust done before the remap... dont think it will make massive differences to the overall output but its just the way i plan on doing mine... when the time comes obviously

Thanks all so far! Just talked to Jim at Star Performance and he is suggesting that maybe best just going for the remap (which is a custome job due to the type of car I have - i.e. old) and this sounds to be good value at

i'd say wait and do the turbo and remap together otherwise you are chucking the 500 quid away.

seems more sense to me anywho

Thanks all so far! Just talked to Jim at Star Performance and he is suggesting that maybe best just going for the remap (which is a custome job due to the type of car I have - i.e. old) and this sounds to be good value at

I totally agree with Bengie, get the K03s and a Samco TIP or one off a later DBW engine then get it remapped.

It will be much better and cheaper in the long run and as you say you'll be running 220-230ish bhp.

My 1999 SLX was chipped by Jim' date=' I reckon the chip is enough for the standard brakes & springs and probably the gearbox/ clutch, let me know if you need any other information.

Adoks[/quote']

Thanks for the advice. Thought me and Nick were the only SLX guys around - nice to see someone else on here. Do you live in Scotland too?

Anyway I am still thinking about whether or not I should get some others bits and pieces done - what other stuff have you had done to to your car? I think a remap sounds like a good first step and my brakes are totally new having just been replaced (factory standard although they do look a bit different to the discs I had on it originally). I find the handling a bit sloppy at times and was seriously considering getting some upgrades to the dampers and/or suspension - Star have mentioned a cost of aorund

Cluster,

1999 1.8T SLX (AGU, NDBW) 150hp std now 190

Bespoke St/St exhaust (Powerflow)

Live in Scotland (West Calder)

Standard but new brakes

Original suspension & wheels

New DV (710N) & MAF (MAF was replaced under warranty) & green temp. sensor

Standard turbo (K03)

New map by Jim @ Star (210ft/lb torque)

Drives smooth like standard, but much harder especially between 2~3K rpm

If you are going to over 220hp then upgrade the suspension, the brakes maybe OK, but I guess it all depends what you want & how much you want to spend

If budget is

Cluster,

1999 1.8T SLX (AGU, NDBW) 150hp std now 190

Bespoke St/St exhaust (Powerflow)

Live in Scotland (West Calder)

Standard but new brakes

Original suspension & wheels

New DV (710N) & MAF (MAF was replaced under warranty) & green temp. sensor

Standard turbo (K03)

New map by Jim @ Star (210ft/lb torque)

Drives smooth like standard, but much harder especially between 2~3K rpm

If you are going to over 220hp then upgrade the suspension, the brakes maybe OK, but I guess it all depends what you want & how much you want to spend

If budget is

Only one real issue he did a throttle adjustment on mine due to some throuttle problems at idle (revs were wavering a little from around 700 to 900) this has settled down now but on a first cold start the revs sit at 1' date='100 and then die down once warm - not usre if this is good ro bad but i'll get in touch with Jim to see if it needs rectified.

[/quote']

After a cold start will idle above 1krm and then settle to around 900rpm after a couple of minutes.....it's normal.

Glad you are enjoying the mods and have had a good experience of Jim's/Star's work.

Hi! Got the work done and very happy with results. Got 192 bhp with 145 at the wheels. Torque is now totally brilliant at 205 lbf/ft - the pull is really amazing compared to standard. Really learnt a lot about what remapping does which is great coz I am a newbie to all of this. Not really into 'chasing numbers' just really pleased at the difference based on the money spent.

Also Jim did some plots which show how other tuners can get bigger numbers all through changing the air pressure input to the machine - he did mine as it was on the day (1005 millibars) and the difference if this was put to something like 900 is unreal. I think this does make a huge difference to numbers and kind of answers some people who have slagged off Star a bit - I think he is dead honest and does everything by the book. On the Star threads lots of people have questioned the 'numbers' he has on his RR' date=' sorry but I think his machine is very accurate as it read my standard at what it should be. Anyway I am pleased and I am sure you are too.

Only one real issue he did a throttle adjustment on mine due to some throuttle problems at idle (revs were wavering a little from around 700 to 900) this has settled down now but on a first cold start the revs sit at 1,100 and then die down once warm - not usre if this is good ro bad but i'll get in touch with Jim to see if it needs rectified.

Are your figures similar to mine on the new output and loss to the wheels? This seems to be what everyone is arguing baout elsewhere on the site but again it doesn't really bother me much - I just know my car is flying just the way I want it now. As for the future not sure where to go next with it but really pretty happy as is - may get an exhaust fitted but will wait till next year. Don't really want to go for k03s as this is expensive and I am sure I would need to get a whole host of things done to deal with the extra power. The slippery slope has halted for the moment....but you never know!!

Cheers

[/quote']

If you are happy with how it is running that is the main thing, dyno figures, especially engine output are questionable so many variables, my figures are very similiar to yours.

Adoks

Hi I saw Jim about 2 weeks ago. I took my 150bhp (drive by wire) up to him. He fitted a dump valve as my original valve was cracked, K+N filter and remapped it. Got 190bhp, 150bhp at the wheel and 200lb torque. Just to say I too was very happy with the service, honest and acurate readings. Going back soon to get;

1) Full system exhaust 205bhp

2) Upgraded turbo 225-230 bhp