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Should I put bleach into my oil...not sure on this


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If the maf or temp sensor have failed or are failing they dont necessarily give a fault code. The reason is that they are still providing the ECU with numbers it understands and are within the required operating range, they are however the wrong numbers. eg. it may still think that the engine is cold, and fuel it as such even though its reached normal temp which in old money is like driving with the choke on all the time. Simillarly with the maf, if its being told the incoming air is the wrong temperature then the fuelling will be all wrong.

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With "friends" like these, who needs enemies? :rofl:

If you think it's the injectors, try running a proper injector cleaner through it, and note that they go in the fuel tank, not the sump! In fact, if the sump contents are getting anywhere near the injectos, then that's going to be the problem!

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in old money is like driving with the choke on all the time. Simillarly with the maf, if its being told the incoming air is the wrong temperature then the fuelling will be all wrong.

Cheers for this, If it was over fuelling would the revs at idle be high as it seems to sit at under 1,000 rpm on the rev counter. If its not throwing a code using a cheap reader will someone with vag com be able to see better what the engine is doing in relation to all these sensors.

Thanks again.

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If its not throwing a code using a cheap reader will someone with vag com be able to see better what the engine is doing in relation to all these sensors.

Yes, VAG COM lets you read the actual values off various sensors so if a value is amiss but not enough to cause a fault code to be triggered it could be possible to determine this. You'd need someone who knew what they were looking for in the values though...

Rob.

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Guest westallc

just been down the supermarket to buy some bleach and wire wool to clean the body work as its alittle dirty and my mate said its the best thing to use :giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:

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it may still think that the engine is cold, and fuel it as such even though its reached normal temp which in old money is like driving with the choke on all the time.

Is that the case Mannyo, as I would of thought that with a temp sensor gone it may think the car is warm and at normal operating temp and thus does not increase fuel when it should to compensate the cold starting. Then this is what causes the rough running until the car warms up then systems of the temp sensor go away or are less extreme? I suppose it could go both ways...

just been down the supermarket to buy some bleach and wire wool to clean the body work as its alittle dirty and my mate said its the best thing to use :giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle::giggle:

Stop it clive I have only just stopped laughing at the Jesus pic.... :rofl:

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where is the temp sender mate

Right hand side of your engine block and very easy to replace

Use this one myself

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-Seat-VW-Skoda-Temperature-Sensor-GREEN-GERMAN-OEQ_W0QQitemZ270488137143QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3efa596db7

Its just a case of pull the cable off and slide the holding clip out and replace with new sensor

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OMG , and these are your friends ?! i have an idea , have a **** in the fuel tank . by doing this you will use less fuel as it will limit the fuel going throught and you will save some :thumbup:

just been down the supermarket to buy some bleach and wire wool to clean the body work as its alittle dirty and my mate said its the best thing to use

i love that quote ! :rofl:

ive just changed my temp sensor due to my car going on choke when you turn the engine off and on even tho the engine was hot and some times it revs up too 2000rpm on turn over . it also showed the temp gauge reading under quater BUT i wasnt using more fuel .

just looked in the haynes maunal and they say afew things

air filter element dirty or clogged

fuel injection system fault

ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault

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