Hi, so I removed the drivers door panel and now am pretty concerned that I need to drill pop rivits out to get to the next part! Is this where the wiring goes bad as the stuff I can see looks fine! That goes to windows etc 

1 hour ago, alesypalsy said:

Is this where the wiring goes bad as the stuff I can see looks fine!

The wiring is the multi-coloured bundles. You need to continuity check the wires (and if it's just a CLS problem, need a wiring diagram to tell you which wires) and inspect the multiplugs that connect (there's an example of an unused one on the end of the blue and brown pair about  mid-door left) for corroded contacts.

The wires around the door all seem fine ,  there is no power getting to the wing mirror as it just turns the left side when the switch is on the right, also indicator in mirror not working also the locking actuator not getting power , I found the wiring where loom joins door to main body of car was very corroded, I cleaned as best I could and put small gasoline on the connectors , has not rectified the problem , I not sure if there are wires underneath the door panel that need to be drilled out and looked at ? 

33 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

The wiring is the multi-coloured bundles. You need to continuity check the wires (and if it's just a CLS problem, need a wiring diagram to tell you which wires) and inspect the multiplugs that connect (there's an example of an unused one on the end of the blue and brown pair about  mid-door left) for corroded contacts.

 

1 hour ago, alesypalsy said:

The wires around the door all seem fine ,  there is no power getting to the wing mirror as it just turns the left side when the switch is on the right, also indicator in mirror not working also the locking actuator not getting power , I found the wiring where loom joins door to main body of car was very corroded, I cleaned as best I could and put small gasoline on the connectors , has not rectified the problem , I not sure if there are wires underneath the door panel that need to be drilled out and looked at ? 

It's quite possible that the broken wires are in the door bellows (not illustrated).

16 hours ago, KenONeill said:

It's quite possible that the broken wires are in the door bellows (not illustrated).

Would you have any idea that if the locking mech/acuator was broken, would this affect the mirror not moving, when I check with vcds it knows which way the switch is turned , if I turn the switch left and right the vcds can read it , so it seems the switch is getting power but the mirror is not, 

I am going to drill the rivets today, but would rather have an idea if there is wiring inside the panel which could have gone bad, 

the door bellows wiring was corroded at the socket but seems ok and after a clean up nothing has changed, 

trip to get a pop rivet gun and will go from here

, I intend to do the back door first now as I have the new actuator so will at least be able to finish that once started,  , one more question, does the window have to come out to fit a new actuator door lock ?

This is where I am currently with closed rear door to change the locking actuator , 

can anyone who knows tell me if the window needs to come out as I have drilled the rivets now and the window cables are behind , I can feel resistance so don’t want to break anything ! 

 

Not sure the next part to do this 

This is the info from Elsawin

Octy 2 rear door inner panel.pdf

Octy 2 front door inner panel.pdf

 

Very nice info nige

 

 

Hey thanks nige, I am past the point of return and after talking to Skoda main dealer on the phone they told me there is no way to save the panel (the metal one ) so I cut a hole in it, I can now reach with my hand the actuator but cannot for the life of me get it to unlock , I have no idea how I am going to get this door to open and the worst of it is the cable from outside handle has now come off  so I can only use interior cable to open the door if I can get the thing to unlock 

here’s my latest, I am totally restricted on room and can only just get my hand at the acuator  

Anyone know how to release the lock with it as it is? 

You need to get at the side of the lock mech to cut it open, hopefully enough to expose the drive cogs inside

There are two motors in the lock assembly unlike the MK1 that only has the one, you might like to try this, from the window motor 18 pin connector, pin 3 (Lilac/Grey wire) this is the common for both motors, then motor 1pin 15 (Lilac/Green wire ) & motor 2 pin 5 (Lilac/Brown wire)  so by applying a supply to either  pin 3 & 15 or 3 & 5 this should directly drive the motors, I can't say which is the lock or unlock motor though  

48 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

You need to get at the side of the lock mech to cut it open, hopefully enough to expose the drive cogs inside

I’m ready to smash the thing, 

5 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

There are two motors in the lock assembly unlike the MK1 that only has the one, you might like to try this, from the window motor 18 pin connector, pin 3 (Lilac/Grey wire) this is the common for both motors, then motor 1pin 15 (Lilac/Green wire ) & motor 2 pin 5 (Lilac/Brown wire)  so by applying a supply to either  pin 3 & 15 or 3 & 5 this should directly drive the motors, I can't say which is the lock or unlock motor though  

There is power to the thing as it’s still connected , it’s completley dead, I need to manually unlock it , I saw somewhere that there’s a point you can drill into but that’s not option (I cannot find that info now anyway) but I need to release this with one hand blind as can’t see in there while my hand in there, I’m completely baffeled and it’s no longer enjoyable at all! 

7 minutes ago, alesypalsy said:

There is power to the thing as it’s still connected , it’s completley dead

Not necessarily true; prove that with a continuity test, or try running a temporary wire from another transient live in the CLS.

This is the MK1 lock

 

You need to get that full panel off to improve your view. ..

Well I’m still trying to get the lock unlocked and am kind of stuck now , no idea what I can do to release the lock , 

another dilema is now the other side door seems to have lost power as I just connected the new lock to the power connection and nothing happened when I pressed the lock unlock , 

now right side is not working either ,  

mid this because the left side windows etc are disconnected!? 

It’s got me totally baffeled now , vcds is not getting any life from back doors whatso ever ,

 

what a nightmare this be 

1 hour ago, nige8021 said:

This is the MK1 lock

 

I miss my mk1 ! It was simple to repair anything with that,  this mk2 is totally bad design for broken door actuators!

Think I have been defeated, I have smashed a part of the side plastic from the actuator but just cannot get anything to do anything with screw driver chisel into the guts of thing , I think I’m lucky to still have the inside cable attached 

Can you not get more of the metal door plate off? If its shagged you need to replace it anyway. So may as well pull it all off. You were going to drillout the rivets.

46 minutes ago, mac11irl said:

Can you not get more of the metal door plate off? If its shagged you need to replace it anyway. So may as well pull it all off. You were going to drillout the rivets.

I already drilled out the rivets , I have good hole that I cut out of the panel,  my problem is how to make this lock unlock so I can open the door, I have called Skoda main dealer and man there told me they just smash the thing ,, but i been sticking screwdriver in the guts of the locking thing and nothing happens, I looked at a thousand videos on tube about releasing them and the professions seem to have a way of drilling a hole and releasing it,, but I have no clue , I drilled a few holes to get the hole going and have now come to an end with trying,, I am pretty gutted as I normally don't give up but this is seeming futile, 

what a nightmare this be,, 

I really want to fix it,, and to top this off my other side rear door is now not working, window or central locking,, and my vcds wont read anything from both rear doors,, I connected the new actuator to test it and nothing!  seems no electric coming through now,, no idea how this has happened, I checked all fuses and none blown so its got me in a pickle indeed

just to add , the lock is right up to the left side and even with more access room it would make no difference to me reaching the lock, its a proper ****e design , as seconded by Skoda today , they tell me that they no longer make them like this and have redesigned the doors