vRS:New oil pump and still no oil to top end

[vrs180]

That is good news

Good job you got a second opinion from someone that knows what there doing.

If it were mine I'd be pi$$ed off with the garage that fitted the first oil pump.

[David 8]

I had the sump dropped and the strainer changed last service (95k)

It was spot less in there according to my mate, his words were "pointless excersice" but he also said that you never know until the sump is off so it's a catch 22.

For the sake of about £30 its worth having a look. Just make sure whoever does uses the VAG sealant and only a thin bead, if they use too much it will end up in the sump and block the strainer

Chicken ....I always use the VAg oils and have never had a problem, our lummox told me told me to use it back years ago, I assume a 5/40 is better as the 40 relates too heat stability iirc. As always I may be wrong though lol

HTH

[mikey vrs]

Glad your getting it sorted........a clean up of the blocked strainer is much cheaper than a new engine!

p.s you need to find a new garage....one thats fits a new oil pump without checking the oil pick upstrainer shouldnt be repairing cars!

Edited 17 March, 2010 by mikey vrs

[chicken_eyebrow]

Chicken ....I always use the VAg oils and have never had a problem, our lummox told me told me to use it back years ago, I assume a 5/40 is better as the 40 relates too heat stability iirc. As always I may be wrong though lol

I think I'm just being paranoid over nothing! Going to leave it in there for a few months then change it for Castrol Edge 5w30 as usual, seen I can get it cheap on Opie Oils now (oil changes used to cost me £70+ )

[KenONeill]

Chicken ....I always use the VAg oils and have never had a problem, our lummox told me told me to use it back years ago, I assume a 5/40 is better as the 40 relates too heat stability iirc. As always I may be wrong though lol

HTH

I can't see why VAG oils should be better than, say, Castrol conforming to VAG 50X standard. Incidentally, the only difference between 5W30 oil and 5W40 that can be deduced from that information is that the 5W40 is thicker when hot. The viscosity rating has nothing to do with stability (tendancy to break down and/or burn at high temperature); it's just a measurement of how fast the oil flows.

Glad your getting it sorted........a clean up of the blocked strainer is much cheaper than a new engine!

p.s you need to find a new garage....one thats fits a new oil pump without checking the oil pick upstrainer shouldnt be repairing cars!

Absol-fragging-lutely!!!

[David 8]

I can't see why VAG oils should be better than, say, Castrol conforming to VAG 50X standard. Incidentally, the only difference between 5W30 oil and 5W40 that can be deduced from that information is that the 5W40 is thicker when hot. The viscosity rating has nothing to do with stability (tendancy to break down and/or burn at high temperature); it's just a measurement of how fast the oil flows.

Haha I thought I may be wrong lol

I pick up This one for around £14 at TPS so about £20 with the filter iirc.

Then I just pay a mte too change it as I can't be arsed doing it outside the house

[chicken_eyebrow]

Then I just pay a mte too change it as I can't be arsed doing it outside the house

I got told the other day we are getting block paving out the front so no car fluids allowed all over the place as usual... doh!

[skotskod]

Glad your getting it sorted........a clean up of the blocked strainer is much cheaper than a new engine!

Depends what you mean by cheaper - detail from the invoice:

Pictures of the oil pickup strainer which had been 'checked' and cleaned by garage #1:

I have however received a full refund from garage#1, which is good news.

p.s you need to find a new garage....one thats fits a new oil pump without checking the oil pick upstrainer shouldnt be repairing cars!

Mikey, I hope that you aren't suggesting that Monks Brook Motors Ltd. of School Lane Industrial Estate in Chandler's Ford Hampshire shouldn't be repairing cars.? I would never say that, but others may like to draw their own conclusions from the above discussion.

On the other hand, Steve Monk at Monks Auto (no relation) seems to know what he is doing, trustworthy as well, unlike some.

Edited 20 March, 2010 by skotskod

[chicken_eyebrow]

Ewww that doesn't look good... what the hell are those white bits in there?

[David 8]

Sump sealant maybe, although the vag stuff is black iirc.

[Tom_vRS]

Does indeed look like sealant - its important not to overdo it!

The genuine sealant I used was definitely white in colour.

[skotskod]

Does indeed look like sealant - its important not to overdo it!

The genuine sealant I used was definitely white in colour.

I did wonder if perhaps they had been using it as a handy ashtray.

[David 8]

On a side note,

Anyone got more info on the whole sludge thing ???

Causes/cures etc

[chicken_eyebrow]

From what I read on other VAG forums it stems from using thick 10w40 oil - which I think a lot of 1.8T engined cars in the late 90s were recommended to be run on - and missing (or postponing) oil changes, or using the thick 10w40 oil in cars on variable servicing which may go over 20,000 miles between oil changes.

Edited 19 March, 2010 by chicken_eyebrow

[David 8]

From what I read on other VAG forums it stems from using thick 10w40 oil - which I think a lot of 1.8T engined cars in the late 90s were recommended to be run on - and missing (or postponing) oil changes, or using the thick 10w40 oil in cars on variable servicing which may go over 20,000 miles between oil changes.

Oh crap lol

I use 10/40 but I am bang on 10 k every time, so I should be ok I hope, and I have had a check and mine was clean (fingers crossed)

[skotskod]

On a side note,

Anyone got more info on the whole sludge thing ???

Causes/cures etc

I read somewhere on a forum of someone cutting the strainer end off the pickup pipe and welding on a much larger one from another engine. (later) Found it: look in this thread. I like the way VW try to sell an upgrade for $700 for what is essentially a design flaw (too small diameter of strainer screen for the flow required).

There is a wealth of stuff on the net you can find about the 1.8T and sludge, but very little detail as to what causes it in the first place. There is talk that the turbo engine runs the oil very hot which can cook the oil and precipitate out carbon solids, which collect in the strainer and block the flow. Full synthetic helps alleviate it, as does regular oil changes (I've seen 5k mentioned). There may be other problems in the engine design which exacerbate the sludge formation of course, but VAG don't seem to have admitted anything (no recalls etc).

[chicken_eyebrow]

I wonder what uprated strainer would suit. I've just found the part numbers for the standard strainer, the seal and two bolts to connect it to the oil pump and the sealant for re-sealing the sump. If I could find a suitably bigger strainer it's something I'd consider doing (not that I can weld though :(

[sc0rpius]

I think doing a complete oil change every 5000 miles should minimize the sludge problem along with checking the strainer and sump/filter every 10,000 miles.

[David 8]

I think doing a complete oil change every 5000 miles should minimize the sludge problem along with checking the strainer and sump/filter every 10,000 miles.

Like I say mine was spotless after 95k hard miles, running 10/40 for the last 50k @10k intervals

I do italian tune the car as often as possible though, which may help matters :rofl:

[skotskod]

I wonder what uprated strainer would suit. I've just found the part numbers for the standard strainer, the seal and two bolts to connect it to the oil pump and the sealant for re-sealing the sump. If I could find a suitably bigger strainer it's something I'd consider doing (not that I can weld though :(

How about this only 7 quid from John Lewis

[chicken_eyebrow]

How about this only 7 quid from John Lewis

LOL

[gjenck]

Hi 

I faced with a similar problem a while ago .

I had been using mostly my car travelling in my city , but last time a hade to go further to an airport and after an our of driving , after a high rev (overtakeing) aprox 4000-5000 rpm  i got the red oil lamp blinking with audible beep . 

As i couldnt stopped i should move 500m more on the hill to get a parking place , so i heard that my cams was knocking as a could hear from inside.

The strange thing is that after a while of pause i started the engine and the red oil light was gone and the engine has the normal engine sound , nothing unusual.

So i could arrive at home with no problems.

After 2 months later i got same oil lamp when i was revving the engine in red , so i stated that there is a permanent problem ... :(

the strange thing that after a while (or next day) the car going well and without noisy engine without problems , so i used the car to get to my work and was no oil lamp at all .

Of course i just drive usually 2-3 km to my job and back , and small 2-3 km mileages in town.

As i knew that maybe is there some temporally oil pressure probolems i put metabond eco in the oil to protect an eventual engine failure until a can go to my mecanic frend to inspect the engine !!

So before put the metabond eco i had to warm the engine so i was warming up about 15 min so i filled with the metabond so i went to a ride to mixing and flewing the oil in every part of the engine so i take a 40-50 km ride

It was no problem until i made an overtake and i did again high revs so it comes again the red oil lamp ..damn... when i stopped i heard again the knocking cams so it was scarry .stopped the engine.

After an hour i started the engine to check if i can drive to home or not , as i started it heard the camsnoise then after 10-15 sec gone and the engine had the right noise without any unusuall. (At that point i was angry on me also that i didnt checked before with my mecanic and my unluck that everytime is appeared this oil lamp when i was out of my city  grrr)

So i decided to try travel to home aprox 1500rpm

So i got no error MIL just when i get in my city and i passed 2500-3000 rpm ...so ...

 

Today i went to the mecanic so we wanted to make first time an oil pressure test .

(our tough is that can be a broken spring or dirtyness in that valve in the oilpump , or a stucked oil pickup strainer ...)

We put the oil pressure gauge in the place of oilpressure sensor...

So we started the engine and we got aprox 1.3 bar and after 15 min it was like the same so went to  a ride with the gauge on it .

we had 2.5-2.9 bar in normal revs , but i made my testrun with high revs , and after i made 4000-5000rpm the oil pressure drop almost totally to about 0.3 bar and remains there with again knocking cams. We stopped for a while , and we put it back the sensor , while the engine cools down a bit too so we tried to start the engine wich was reverted to the normal state .! no eroor no knocking ...so we diceded to remove the sump and examine the pump and the valve also with the oil pickup strainer so i'm not using the car until we fixing ...

So any suggestion its welcome ...

I mention that i know i know that i'm too optimist in this way and it was a big risk to use my car so long  from the first oil MIL so for now just my hopes dont disolve

Anybody had similar problem and what else should be or which of these are most possible to cause ?

Thank you in advance

 

(Skoda Octavia 2002 VRS 1.8T 20v AUQ ,180000km onboard, Castrol Edge 5W30 changed less than a year,metabond filled 3 days ago ,i had oil sump repaired before 12 month ago as i gotr a crack as i got a stone under the car and perhaps some sealing  also could drop inside and stuck something ?)

 

Edited 22 October, 2013 by gjenck

[gjenck]

Finally we solved the problem

We found that the oil was sludgy at all at least in the oil pickup was stucked , some broken plastic also was inside pickup.

We found a valve clogged in the oil filter housing , .

so we took off bearings also to check for wear and apparently failure due no oilpressure , but we found everything ok, also checked the camshaft was ok too.

 So we cleaned all the oil ways up n down , we cleaned also both the oil pump and oil filter housing.

I changed oil , oil filter , air filter ,  pollen filter ,fuel filter . but the mostly important thing that i used the same 5w30 oil but another brand Motul 8100 specific as i dont trust anymore in castrol edge :(( at least here east  in romania  possibli we have fake products.)

My mechanic suggested to use 10w40 but i  remain with 5w30 because i  read a lot here and in other forum that is better to use the same as was built for the engine.

So after all , the engine now is working fine , running smoother ,quiter, and i tested at 5000-6000 rpm and no oil pressure error  at all, and today morning when i started the engine -4 grade i had no any camsound as was before .

The other thing is that the car pulls more better from 2000 rpm now , is way changed in performance .

So i can get the conclusion of maybe bad oil quality could done that mess in the engine . I'm happy that is no other failure in the engine ...

So i bought metabond threater for gearbox  and prolong for engine treatment. I dont put yet the prolong  as i want to check the engine for a while  whithout prolong  , so enyone have experience with prolong ?????

Thanx in advance 

[Liverpool-Lad]

Sounds like you were lucky as the first time it came on I wouldnt have driven it.  The classic problem as mentioned if oil is not changed very regularly is debris and gumming of the strainer as you have found.  

[Liverpool-Lad]

Additives also IMO are a gimmick and not needed, the best thing you can do for your engine is regular oil and filter changes with preferably fully synthetic oil.  A yearly change is best and is something I do religiously with Mobil 1 every 6,000 miles (once a year)