Modifications on our Yeti 1.2 TSI

[Llanigraham]

Are they a dealer-fit item? I can't find them in the brochure.

Chris

Considering they are a couple of scews to do up, then getting a dealer to fit them is a very expensive way to go.

They aren't in the main brochure, but in the Accessories one, but there are always several on Ebay.

[threeshoes]

Considering they are a couple of scews to do up, then getting a dealer to fit them is a very expensive way to go.

They aren't in the main brochure, but in the Accessories one, but there are always several on Ebay.

I suspected as much. Thanks again, Graham.

Chris

[Llanigraham]

How's this for service:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-YETI-REAR-MUDFLAPS-2009-/150802941195?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item231c8e450b

[threeshoes]

How's this for service:

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item231c8e450b

Excellent! The service I mean

Thanks

Chris

[Michael G]

So pleased to see this necro post come back, and delighted I was wearing my dark jeans when I read the OP's satnav hardwire solution. I came over all moist .

Been pondering how best to hardwire in our Garmin 2440 and avoid trailing cable syndrome but some of the other approaches seemed more suited to auto sparkys. By contrast, the Powerlink charger/piggyback connector seemed much more plug n play.

But then, nothing's ever that straightforward. On the 2440, the micro USB socket is obscured when mounted on the car cradle, and in any event is intended primarily for data. Power for navigation use comes in to the cradle on which the 2440 sits, and here the mini plug is in a proprietary moulding taking the cable neatly straight back.

The Powerlink unit does come in both straight and right angled mini USB plug options but both mean that the cable would be more visible than the Garmin moulding, and I'm a bit anal with that kinda thing.

I found an equivalent Garmin part fitted with the right plug

http://www.buybits.com/Product/5170/Genuine-Garmin-Mini-Usb-Hard-Wire-Cable-sku-5170.aspx

but sods law, it's out of stock and they can't get any more . This is possibly because the 2440 is "last years model".

So, what to do ?

It occurred to me that if there was space in the fuse box mounting I could simply house the cradle power plug and a 12v socket there, get power to the socket via the piggy back connector from Powerlink, then tuck the cable up and behind the dash/pillar/windscreen join and thence to the cradle which we mount just above the centre tray (no cover on the S).

This is the kind of socket I'm looking at:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120762211394?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2215wt_1037

Would that work ? I don't know if there's the space as Mrs G has the car right now. The socket can be fused and of course the piggyback connector is fused too. Using the Garmin plug still steps the 12v down to 5v so no regulator needed and as an aside, the cost is reduced. Could be done for £15, although the saving isn't my main objective. If the Garmin cable above was still available it would have been winging it's way to me already.

It boils down to the space behind the fusebox moulding. Should I ask Mrs G to resign immediately and come home with all speed, or does anyone know if a plug/socket would fit ?

If there isn't I'll go for one of the Powerlink options. Both solutions appear to mean power is supplied to the cradle all the time if I piggyback on to a 12v socket fuse. Is that a problem when the 2440 isn't always mounted ? Should I look for some sort of blanking cover for the exposed terminals in the cradle ?

Any advice gratefully received.

[Llanigraham]

My Garmin "holster" sits permanently on the screen in my car, currently with the power lead crossing the dash and down to Ring multi socket and battery meter unit fitted to the side of the centre console and plugged into the central power socket. I intend to rewire the Ring unit with a straight wire connected to one of the piggyback connectors in the fuse board area and then fit that in the drivers corner of the dash top. My phone can also then be plugged in the same place.

I don't think there would be room for that socket in the fuse board area. If there was it would be a very neat way of sorting out the problem.

[Merlinman]

I have two similar plug/sockets to power my A pillar Brodit mounted Garmin 3760 and dash top Talex Speed Camera GPS - both wired and fused into the fusebox - and there is room at the back of the fusebox to feed them through (provided you don't have hands like a bunch of bananas!

You need to release the fuseboard to ease them behind.

HTH?

[Michael G]

Your current set up is exactly what we do now Graham - add in a couple of Galaxy phones (but different models) plus a charger for the phone bluetooth, and it all becomes a bit of a dog's dinner. Hence pondering the hardwire approach, at least for the Garmin. The others hold their charges longer.

I'll get the fusebox cover off and check when the weather starts behaving like May and let you know.

[Michael G]

Yes, that does help Merlinman

Now getting moist again.

[Tugy]

There is room for a power socket in the fusebox moulding, I've put one in for my Brodit mobile phone holder, and I have also run a lead up to the centre tray to supply a row of power sockets and a usb power socket. Both leads supplied from a piggyback fuse off the rear wiper supply, so it is only on when the ignition is on.

[Michael G]

Cheers Tugy. Fuse for rear wiper, got it. Have to say I'd be more at ease with an ignition live source.

[kibby]

With regard to under bonnet insulation my dealer (when asked) made the statement that

fitting it "might affect the warranty" and advised against it but only mumbled on without

being specific when asked why?.....so probably safe to ignore it.

I wanted it for greater cold weather insulation with potential gain of more sound deadening.

Didn't go ahead as didn't want issues with local dealer if engine problems occurred with the

easy get out of "its the insulation you shouldn't have fitted".

Edited 1 May, 2012 by kibby

[HKPhooey]

With regard to under bonnet insulation my dealer (when asked) made the statement that

fitting it "might affect the warranty" and advised against it but only mumbled on without

being specific when asked why?.....so probably safe to ignore it.

I wanted it for greater cold weather insulation with potential gain of more sound deadening.

Didn't go ahead as didn't want issues with local dealer if engine problems occurred with the

easy get out of "its the insulation you shouldn't have fitted".

I've had warranty work done on our car's engine without any issues.

[kibby]

Didn't want to take chance as warned off by dealer....probably a load of bull .... they were talking.

Haven't found dealers or Skoda UK Customer Care very consistant or knowledgable on the product.

Edited 1 May, 2012 by kibby

[laur]

I want to buy something like this , mee too. But this bonnet insulation somehow does not lead to an overheating of the engine?

[kibby]

Has been discussed before on this forum. The general consensus being it would likely have

no effect on engine overheating but begs the question why is it not fitted as standard on petrol versions.

Maybe just a cost saving exercise....Skoda customer care uk not able to answer it but they are an outsourced outfit so no suprise.

Edited 2 May, 2012 by kibby

[laur]

From skodaparts.com:

Description: SOUND ABSORBER FOR ENGINE LID OCTAVIA A5 (1Z) 2004-2012

WILL FIT ANY MODEL AND ENGINE TYPE

PETROL & DIESEL

It means it's OK .

[Llanigraham]

The bonnet insulation has nothing to do with temperature insulation, but is for SOUND insulation. Generally it isn't fitted to petrol engined cars as they are intrinsically quieter than a diesel.

[kibby]

Bonnet insulation is the norm whether it is petrol or diesel...may be a Skoda

cost saving quirk.?

[Michael G]

Semi update

on the "hardwiring a satnav" bit. My OEM Garmin plug fits fine in the space to the side of the fuses so seems I have a solution via a 12v socket, without the need for a 12v to 5v regulator. Ordered a socket and piggyback connector. Will post pics when done. Cheers to the OP and others who chimed in confirming they'd done the same for onboard electronic kit.

[Michael G]

Full update

Well, a few skinned knuckles later, I've hard-wired in my Garmin satnav via its existing car power plug, and a socket and piggy back adaptor from well rated sellers on eBay. No thanks to Powerlink - after 10 days and unanswered emails - no adaptor from them. We'll let PayPal sort that out.

Anyhoo, here's what I did:

Used a flat blade screwdriver in the slot to carefully lever out the fuse box cover on the driver's side

The top edge on the bonnet side needs a little bit of teasing out

I fully intended using an ignition side supply but when it came to it, the manual, the pictogram on the reverse of the cover, and the reality, appeared to have no relation to each other. So I ended up using the boot 12v socket supply, one of the options suggested by the OP. That means my satnav cradle will always be live, but that's no different to the existing 12v sockets. Power will only be used when the satnav is mounted on the cradle, and that will only happen when I'm driving.

The satnav plug has a built in step down to 5v, and a 2a fuse, so for consistency I mounted a 2a fuse on the piggyback, and the same inline in the socket power cord.

Here I've temporarily connected everything to ensure the circuit works - and it does. You might just be able to see the Garmin plug is lit up.

This pic shows the finished instal - the plug and socket are snug, but do go in. The cradle connector was teased out of the side of the fusebox compartment through a gap at the 1o'clock position, then pushed down in to the gap twixt dash and screen, then to the cradle.

My objective was to maintain a charged unit in use, whilst avoiding cable trailing over the dash. From the driver's position, the cradle without the satnav mounted looks reasonably neat

and with the unit mounted, very neat. You can see the "charging" symbol showing.

Job done. Many thanks to the OP and others who confirmed this was feasible even for an old duffer like me, who last played with car electrics with a Radiomobile around 1972.

[JCP]

Lovely work!

[Witte Yeti]

A view weeks a go, i did the same http://www.skodaforum.eu/topic/1836-navigator-aansluiten-via-zekering/#entry33418

[Michael G]

A view weeks a go, i did the same http://www.skodaforu...ing/#entry33418

De grote meningen denken gelijk toen.

Hope I haven't just told you to eff off