Made some quick mods on our Yeti:

• Hard wired power for our tomtom nav device
• Hood insulation
• short antenna
• mudflaps

Power device: 12v in - 5v USB out. Guided the cable with a wedge tool along the edge of the dashboard for the short trip to the dash fuse box. I tapped into one of the 20amp fuses that protect the 12v sockets near the handbrake and in the boot. The power device, which was tucked into the fuse box cavity in the dashboard, has an auto off once the nav device is fully charged since the 12v sockets are always live.

Hood insulation:

easy to install - cost 35euro. Makes a discernable noise reduction according to my wife.

Short antenna:

Didn't mind the oem antenna but was curious to see for myself after some members installed it. Looks neat I guess - no adverse effect to radio reception.

Wasn't sure about the mudflaps but they actually look good on the Yeti. Practical too - we immediately noticed a difference with regards to side splatter. Rear washout seems to have improved as well.

Edited 1 April, 201016 yr by YETII

Love the sat nav install! A couple of questions if I may!

Was it easy to feed the cable from the fuse box out into the car? (I havent got my Yeti yet so cant look and see - is the UK fuse box on the right??)

Where about does the earth connect to?

Thanks

Simon

Edited 1 April, 201016 yr by SimonVespa

Love the sat nav install! A couple of questions if I may!

Was it easy to feed the cable from the fuse box out into the car? (I havent got my Yeti yet so cant look and see - is the UK fuse box on the right??)

Where about does the earth connect to?

Thanks

Simon

Yeah, it was easy Simon. I'll have to highlight on one of the pics how exactly I guided the cable.

There are metallic earth points everywhere near the fuses - not a problem.

UK fuse box would be on the right - that would be logical.

Everything is placed in the dash cavity next to the fuses. The first red dot is the USB end (green dots indicate behind the plastic cover) - guide the USB end out from the bottom corner where you see a little opening. Once you grab the USB end guide the rest of the cable all the way to your nav device.

Use a plastic wedge tool to force the cable between the dash and A pillar.

These are the sort of threads I love!

Did you Yeti not have any hood insulation from the factory?

It looks like the Yeti insulation on my CR 110.

I think the fuses are still on the left for rhd Yetis.

Thanks for the ideas.

tom

I've used self-adhesive sound deadening for the bonnet insulation. Had enough left over to line the boot area - £16.

Would recommend this to provide a fused live for satnav hardwire - http://www.powerlinkproducts.co.uk/installation.html gives up to 10amp feed (can reduce if satnav only) .

These are the sort of threads I love!

Did you Yeti not have any hood insulation from the factory?

It looks like the Yeti insulation on my CR 110.

I think the fuses are still on the left for rhd Yetis.

Thanks for the ideas.

tom

Only the diesels get the insulation standard from factory for noise dampening. The part number is exactly the same - I fitted it as well for enhanced noise dampening.

I've used self-adhesive sound deadening for the bonnet insulation. Had enough left over to line the boot area - £16.

Would recommend this to provide a fused live for satnav hardwire - http://www.powerlink...stallation.html gives up to 10amp feed (can reduce if satnav only) .

Yep, that's a good solution. The power link device itself has a fuse on the power cable.

The fuse holder should be of the standard fuse blade type.

I recommend fuse no.26 or no.30 (20amp) as they are providing 12V only to the cigarette lighter and rear 12v socket. All the rest of the fuses are live only if certain other devices are in operation like relays, rear heater, headlights and the like. Stay away from the mini fuses as they are mostly sensitive electronic protectors for airbags, ABS etc.

Good bit of info re the mudflaps - most of us have had them fiited from Day 1 so don't know how effective they actually are.

That makes sense!! Thanks. I think this will be one of my first jobs when the Yeti arrives. I think the biggest challenge will be routing from left to right in a UK car-assuming the fuses are still on the left as suggested above. Still gives me something to take my mind off waiting lol.

These are the sort of threads I love!

Thanks for the ideas.

Me too! Great post. I'm really impressed with the Tom Tom wiring.

John

That makes sense!! Thanks. I think this will be one of my first jobs when the Yeti arrives. I think the biggest challenge will be routing from left to right in a UK car-assuming the fuses are still on the left as suggested above. Still gives me something to take my mind off waiting lol.

Fuses are on r/h side on UK car. Have just checked.

John

Fuses are on r/h side on UK car. Have just checked.

John

Thats great new - thanks John. I think I know what my first job is now :yes:

Simon

Thats great new - thanks John. I think I know what my first job is now :yes:

Simon

I ordered the electrical gizmo yesterday!

John

For anyone thinking of hardwiring their satnat - DO NOT cut the 12v plug off and connect the pos and neg leads.

The plug has the step-down circuitry to drop the car 12v down to the satnav 5v.

An alternative to the box of tricks above is to connect a 12v socket to the gizmo I posted above (or a 12v extension lead - both available from Maplins) and plug your OEM satnav into this.

For anyone thinking of hardwiring their satnat - DO NOT cut the 12v plug off and connect the pos and neg leads. The plug has the step-down circuitry to drop the car 12v down to the satnav 5v. An alternative to the box of tricks above is to connect a 12v socket to the gizmo I posted above (or a 12v extension lead - both available from Maplins) and plug your OEM satnav into this.

I did this with my Fabia Mk1. I used a standard cigarette lighter to usb adapter and a usb cable and the whole lot tucked away nicely in a small space in the fuse box. I soldered the 12v cable to a fuse (the output side of course!) and attached the earth to a local screw.

Made some quick mods on our Yeti:

• [*]Hard wired power for our tomtom nav device[*]

I've installed the hard-wired power supply for my TomTom as described. It was a cinch!

I used the dual circuit fuse holder (http://www.powerlinkproducts.co.uk/installation.html).

A great mod.

John

Hi John

Did you get the 2 amp fuse included with the fuse holder? Mine came on Friday without one!

Thanks

Simon

I ordered mine from elsewhere - came without a fuse !

I ordered mine from elsewhere - came without a fuse !

mmmmm....... ive emailed them as they say 'included' on the web - but I guess a trip to Halfrauds will be in order!

Simon

Ah - they say "The charger unit is fused externally with 2 A fuse."

Got a feeling they mean "The charger unit should be fused externally with 2 A fuse."

Worth an ask though !

Edited 12 April, 201016 yr by Gilesmengland

Hi John

Did you get the 2 amp fuse included with the fuse holder? Mine came on Friday without one!

Thanks

Simon

No, it also came without.

As a matter of interest I've used the upper fuse block mounting screw for the earth connection. It works fine.

What I have noticed though is that the powerlink does not appear to switch off automatically when the TomTom is charged so that might be an issue for a vehicle that's parked for a period of time.

John

I have a suggestion for the short antenna.

I used an o-ring in order to fill the gap between the base of the antenna and the short mast.

I think it looks good and it also protects-insulates.

Speedster: now that is one hell of a good tip! I love the ingenuity of it!

Very cool tip.

Where are the short antennas sourced from / what are they ? (Honda S2000 ?)

Thanx guys. If you look on e-bay for “Skoda aerial” you are bound to find one.

The one pictured is supposed to be an OEM VW (part no. 7M0 035 849 E), but I suspect it is actually a really good replica.

Edited 17 April, 201016 yr by Speedster