oil change advice

[newskoda]

Hi,

I'm thinking about changing the oil on my vRS. Never done this before but i'm not too keen about getting the car up on axle stands, undoing the plastic black cover, undoing the sump and draining it because i'm scared i may end up over torquing it when it put it back on. Also worried about using axle stands as getting the jack point right etc.

So instead of this could i suck the oil out? to do this would i need to remove the plastic engine cover and then take off the hex nut which is over the oil filter? then stick http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21663/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Laser-Fluid-Extractor

into the oil filler cap to suck out the oil? it may be best done when oil is warm and thin?

Once its sucked out, i replace the filter with a new one and rubber "o ring" tighten the hex nut up again. Then pour 4.2 ltrs of oil via the filler cap

i found this article here and someone with a Fabia commented on it

http://jmkgreen.wordpress.com/2008/08/17/screwfix-laser-fluid-extractor-perfect-for-oil-changes/

Edited 14 May, 2010 by newskoda

[JLneonhug]

Question - For one its silly expensive for what it is, lol. But on a different note, will these suck out the possible crud which is on the bottom of the oil?

Ebay found:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MANUAL-PETROL-OIL-FLUID-EXTRACTOR-6-LITRE-MANY-USES-/310216419994?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item483a56ea9a

6 litr version.

Edited 14 May, 2010 by JLneonhug

[grr666]

Question - For one its silly expensive for what it is, lol. But on a different note, will these suck out the possible crud which is on the bottom of the oil?

I agree with JLneonhug its the residue that drops

to the bottom that you really need to get out...

My advice would be to make sure you change the sump plug gasket (washer) when you

replace the plug after draining... They're only like 10p or something and usually made of copper or acrylic.

Sometimes the old gasket gets stuck to the sump plug but you should cut it off and replace it anyway.

I think you're more worried about this job than you need to be...

Use a trolley jack rather than the supplied one and just jack up enough to get under there and undo the sump plug.

Then lower the car back to the ground with a suitable container and let it drain....

Then... Jack back up and replace the plug and washer. This way you won't need axle stands....

Take your time and you'll be okay. :yes:

[newskoda]

thankyou!

i think i could do this

is this jack ok?

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3cad05237f

and why do you mention putting the car down while draining it? can't i have it up in the air the whole time?

will i need any special tools or wrenches?

[Confused_Cheese]

The oil will probably drain better when flat, rather than being at an angle.

I'd be careful getting under the car with just a jack supporting it, they can fail/slip. Better safe than squished

[JLneonhug]

I got this kit when I got my original 2 x jacks stuck on the car (long story short, i didnt have axil stands.... using TWO jacks car starts slipping..... )

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/66742/Van-Car-Accessories/Jacks-Stands/2-Tonne-Combi-Kit

It was I think £32 back then, not the cheapest but its all in a box so its tidy.

Theres a guide on here im sure to about changing oil.. Need that 16mm hex or something (least thats what it was on the 1.4mpi).

[anewman]

If you get the oil really hot and sloshed around, this should help mix the crap somewhat at the bottom, and this will drain with the rest of it. If you want you can then put in a cheap oil (to flush the engine) and then run the engine (remove the tube from dipstick first [sorry had to be said lol]) to warm this up and mix with old oil and drain this too. For cleanliness (no drips on driveway) nothing beats the pump, for making sure every last bit of crap is out of the engine removing the sump plug is best, removing the sump pan better still.

If I am getting under the car and don't need the wheels off, I prefer to use ramps. You should be able to get a decent enough pair for £30 to £40.

Edited 14 May, 2010 by anewman

[rum4mo]

If I am getting under the car and don't need the wheels off, I prefer to use ramps. You should be able to get a decent enough pair for £30 to £40.

I think that is the correct answer, if you are able to fabricate one from old lengths of wood then you can make a pair (or two pairs!) that has a long slow slope - so its easier to drive up. Be aware that lots of ramps rise very quickly so are difficult to get up and might damage from front valance. If the drain point is at the rear of the engine then its best to leave it jacked up while draining the oil.

[unsolicited]

So instead of this could i suck the oil out? to do this would i need to remove the plastic engine cover and then take off the hex nut which is over the oil filter? then stick http://www.screwfix....Fluid-Extractor

into the oil filler cap to suck out the oil? it may be best done when oil is warm and thin?

Once its sucked out, i replace the filter with a new one and rubber "o ring" tighten the hex nut up again. Then pour 4.2 ltrs of oil via the filler cap

i found this article here and someone with a Fabia commented on it

http://jmkgreen.word...or-oil-changes/

Yes, you can use a vacuum device to suck the oil out. The plastic pipe thing goes straight down the dipstick hole all the way to the bottom of the sump. I got 4.1 litres out of mine that way... then change the filter and refill carefully, checking the dipstick regularly after the first short engine run to fill the new filter (remember that it will take some time for all the new oil to make it down to the sump). Personally, I think you won't get much more out if you use the sump plug - but if it bothers you, then drain properly every other (or every few) changes.

Takes 15 mins max.

[DEAN0]

I use a PELA 6000 vac extractor - takes 6 ltrs of oil and available for around £30 posted from a good marine suppliers.

Just make sure the oil is nice and hot.

Much quicker than lifting the car.

[newskoda]

I use a PELA 6000 vac extractor - takes 6 ltrs of oil and available for around £30 posted from a good marine suppliers.

Just make sure the oil is nice and hot.

Much quicker than lifting the car.

http://www.marinescene.co.uk/product/131/pela-6000-oil-extractor-vacuum-pump

this seems good. Would it take about 15-20 minutes to suck the oil out?

i could then pour some flushing oil into it then refill with 5w30

Morris do this one http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idProduct=80

but bit uneasy about running it with this oil for 5 minutes...wont that damage the engine? as its not the correct grade?

Edited 14 May, 2010 by newskoda

[Gti Fly]

for what it's worth,

I've been using my Pela 6000 pump for nearly 7years, it's great for oil changes.

On the Skoda diesel it's so much easier that VW put the filter at the top of the engine too.

What I do is pour some diesel engine oil flush additive in, then drive the car around for atleast 5miles (or until the temperature shows 90), and then get the pela out and extract the oil whilst it's still hot hot hot.

Once that's done, then whip out the oil filter, and pela suck out the oil (quite a lot) inside the filter canister part.

Then just fit new filter, and pour in your lovely clean engine oil.

[DEAN0]

Try here for the PELA - http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/search.bhtml?productNumber=&keyword=oil&brand=10495685&leaf=

Join their mailing club and you get a £10 off code for your first order.

Makes it around £30 delivered.

[sniper29a]

low tech oil change. find a steady kerb. ride on the kerb with one side of car so that you get about 7cm more space underneath of car ;-) undone all screws from pvc cover. loose oil sump plug gently. move your car back to flat road, run engine for at least 10mins. put baking plate underneath of oil sumpo plug then undone already loosen oil sump plug and enjoy the ride ;-)

SPECIAL TOOLS: 19mm spanner + 19mm socket key on ratchet, a kerb, thorx key, new plug, 5l of oil + filter, tesco baking plate for 12£ (your partner can use it for baking afterwards ROFL), employer who deals with waste oil ;-)

Edited 25 May, 2010 by sniper29a

[AndyPandy]

Hi,

I'm thinking about changing the oil on my vRS. Never done this before but i'm not too keen about getting the car up on axle stands, undoing the plastic black cover, undoing the sump and draining it because i'm scared i may end up over torquing it when it put it back on. Also worried about using axle stands as getting the jack point right etc.

So instead of this could i suck the oil out? to do this would i need to remove the plastic engine cover and then take off the hex nut which is over the oil filter? then stick http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21663/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Laser-Fluid-Extractor

into the oil filler cap to suck out the oil? it may be best done when oil is warm and thin?

Once its sucked out, i replace the filter with a new one and rubber "o ring" tighten the hex nut up again. Then pour 4.2 ltrs of oil via the filler cap

i found this article here and someone with a Fabia commented on it

http://jmkgreen.wordpress.com/2008/08/17/screwfix-laser-fluid-extractor-perfect-for-oil-changes/

Although it takes longer to do ,I would always warm oil,and take out drain plug,to change Engine Oil. Because you cannot see what is in the oil if anything. I once drained the sump of a nearly new Kawasaki motorcycle I owned , and found 1/4 " pieces of bakelite ,and epoxy glue in the bottom of the drain tray. The ferrite magnets on the Alternator rotor were becoming detached !.Sometimes I have seen a small amount of other liquid on the top of the drained oil. I would never have known these early warning signs of trouble had I used a suction tube device!.

Edited 25 May, 2010 by AndyPandy

[sniper29a]

Although it takes longer to do ,I would always warm oil,and take out drain plug,to change Engine Oil. Because you cannot see what is in the oil if anything. I once drained the sump of a nearly new Kawasaki motorcycle I owned , and found 1/4 " pieces of bakelite ,and epoxy glue in the bottom of the drain tray. The ferrite magnets on the Alternator rotor were becoming detached !.Sometimes I have seen a small amount of other liquid on the top of the drained oil. I would never have known these early warning signs of trouble had I used a suction tube device!.

Motorbike and car is little bit difference don't you think ;-) Motorbike is very sensitive for oil. That is why there is rule of thumb "who can make oil for bikes, can make good oils generally." Furthermore, any vehicle is perfect reflection of its owner. If you look after your car you don't need to worry. There is always signs everywhere long in advance of coming troubles. It is only up to you if you observe and listen ;-)

[cheezemonkhai]

I agree with JLneonhug its the residue that drops

to the bottom that you really need to get out...

I don't have a problem with this at all as if you don't leave your oil change forever, the crud is in solution in the warm oil

(Yes I have checked after an extraction)

You can also do changes more often as it's less effort, so you will do it even in bad weather.

That plus you can suck the extra 1/2L of oil out that sits in the bottom of the oil filter housing and replace it with clean oil before putting a clean oil filter in.

My advice would be to make sure you change the sump plug gasket (washer) when you

replace the plug after draining... They're only like 10p or something and usually made of copper or acrylic.

Actually you specifically don't want to do this.

What you want is a new sump plug as they are single use items on most VAG cars.

Using it more than once can result in over tightening and this will strip the thread in the aluminium sump.

That is then a new sump at far more than a lifetime of new sump plugs will cost you.

Use a trolley jack rather than the supplied one and just jack up enough to get under there and undo the sump plug.

Then lower the car back to the ground with a suitable container and let it drain....

Then... Jack back up and replace the plug and washer. This way you won't need axle stands....

Take your time and you'll be okay. :yes:

Erm, you never heard of drive on ramps?

Beside which I agree, getting the under guard off is a pain in the backside with the number of screws there are.

I tend to think that the pump change is fine, but since the car is up on the ramps every 2 years I get a drain oil change done by the dealer at this point.

This means I still have a full variable service history and can change the oil more often if I like.

Many garages use the pump method these days, and I would say that removal of the extra half pint of dirty oil will counter any small amount left in the sump.

Also worth noting that using the correct, quality oil, is far more important than getting the last dribble of the dirty stuff out and using the wrong oil.

[sniper29a]

You also have to change oil every 6500miles not 10000miles. 10k miles is for lovely inland weather of central Europe. I am not sure whether Skoda manual mentions this, but island salty dump weather (UK) and towing trailers need earlier oil change at 6500miles or even earlier.

Problem with oil pumps maybe vacuum in the engine and unwanted movement of swarfs and other particles which suppose to be washed out naturally by spraying oil from crank shaft and so on.