Part 1. Breather System Simplification

Thought I would share the latest activity I have done.

Maybe move to techi guide section later on.

This completes the previous modifications and simplifications I have already done to the engine bay area, and if anyone is considering this perhaps they should consider undergoing the previous items on the threads below first or at the same time as it makes sense.

As I have already removed the SAI, N249, N112 so there was not much else to do.

Thread I covered before on removing those items,

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/

Also I did an OCC install which has changed how the original piping is routed. Folks following this guide should be aware of this.

OCC Install thread here

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/141132-occ-installation/

The following pic is courtesy of Rob’s handy work and shows the standard layout of all the colored systems and piping in place on the VRS,

My VRS is missing all of those apart from the items I am now focusing on which is the Evap system (pictured in green) and the Vac system (pictured in blue)

Remove engine plastic covers

So first start off with removing the vac piping at the top of the inlet manifold.

Twin Pipe to brake servo hose now removed and hose in place now exposed

One way valve to brake servo pipe should be retained.

Add new hose to the one way valve and join up to the exposed pipe to servo

Next remove the metal bracket that is fixed to the inlet manifold with 2 allen screws or bolts to get to the lower vac piping under manifold. ( I still retain this bracket, only to hold the small plastic engine cover, as I have no N112 or N249 attached anymore) If you folks do then it will be a lot more fiddly to get to the vac piping.

Remove the vac lines which consist of 2 pipe connections at the front lower manifold by the dipstick, a hose going into a “T” piece with one way valve. A large hose coming from my OCC. A hose coming off the one way valve and up through inlet manifold to the brake servo hose you would of removed earlier. And lastly a pipe routed to a hardline that goes up and over the rocker cover. To remove these you need to snap apart the OEM metal clips, easier said than done. I found using a small flat screwdriver to prise the top section apart worked best, but still a knack to it. Then you can just pull out the main pipe to “T” piece”

“T” piece still in place to show better shot with my OCC pipe routed to it..

Vac pipes removed

“T” piece removed

OCC reconnected directly to 90’ elbow

Now cap off the exposed metal tubes coming from the inlet manifold

Some different ways to cap the tubes off, I went with rubber caps.

Pic of the hardline that had one of the inlet vac pipes attached can now be removed. This routes to the TIP (turbo inlet pipe)

Pipe removed

Example of some blanking plugs I used.

10mm blanking plug fitted to the TIP (you could use a 10mm bolt)

Part 2 to follow as ran up to max pics.

Edited 3 October, 201015 yr by Bowders1

Part 2. Breather System Simplification

Now you can start of the EVAP piping to throttle body.

Remove the hose and second one way valve to the hardline.

Removed

Fit replacement hose to join the 1st one way valve to throttle body

Remove the hose that joins the hard line running across the fuel injector rail to the hardline on the temp sensor side on the engine.

Remove the hose that routes from the turbo to the hardline and blank that hose off with a 8mm blank or bolt.

I decided to remove the hardlines completely as they were no longer being used, just to tidy engine up some more. They are a little tricky getting out as you will need to undo the 2 allen bolts holding the temp sensor housing in place and pull away teh housing to then pull up the hardlines(a small amount of coolant will be lost, even less if you are quick at relocating housing)

Pic showing temp sensor housing and hardlines

I decided to clean up the side face of the engine whilst it was clear of pipes

All that is left now is to double check all the pipes, blanks and any jubilee clips are tight and secure then refit metal bracket to inlet manifold. Refit plastic engine covers and admire work done.

Note: I noticed that my TIP was badly gauged(can only assume it was the hardline and jubilee clips rubbing) and looks like it was nearly through the lining, so to be safe ordered another one. Maybe folks should check there TIP, especially if they get a lot of engine movement.

Hope you find this useful.

Edited 3 October, 201015 yr by Bowders1

Awesome as always mate.

Excellent write up. Will hopefully be doing mine soon.

I don't suppose you still have that group of 4 hardlines or did you bin them?

excellent stuff, next to hardware modification, is there a software update needed as well?

Excellent write up. Will hopefully be doing mine soon.

I don't suppose you still have that group of 4 hardlines or did you bin them?

I still have them and every single std pipe, line and hose i removed, just in case i ever go back to std ( doubt that now) or a pipe goes on me and I need a temp fix.

Superb write up Bowders, engine bay is a credit to you.

Peter

Superb write up Bowders, engine bay is a credit to you.

Peter

Cheers Peter. once it is clean it is easier to keep it that way.

top work buddy

Good effort!

I still have them and every single std pipe, line and hose i removed, just in case i ever go back to std ( doubt that now) or a pipe goes on me and I need a temp fix.

Was thinking about cutting off the other 3 hardlines and using the 4th for the DV to manifold connection instead of using a long flexible hose. How easy would that be do you think? Would you swap me the hardlines for some beer tokens so I could give it a go?

Was thinking about cutting off the other 3 hardlines and using the 4th for the DV to manifold connection instead of using a long flexible hose. How easy would that be do you think? Would you swap me the hardlines for some beer tokens so I could give it a go?

Ha Ha, depends on the amount of beer tokens.

cutting off the other 3 would be easy if you just mean cut at the ends showing, and just leave the one for the DV. Hacksaw would do it quickly.

I only removed them because i have removed everything else and the engine bay is easy to work on now and less cluttered.

Ha Ha, depends on the amount of beer tokens.

cutting off the other 3 would be easy if you just mean cut at the ends showing, and just leave the one for the DV. Hacksaw would do it quickly.

I only removed them because i have removed everything else and the engine bay is easy to work on now and less cluttered.

How many beer tokens would you want?

Was hoping to be able to cut / grind / file off the other 3 all the way though not just cut the ends off.

How many beer tokens would you want?

Was hoping to be able to cut / grind / file off the other 3 all the way though not just cut the ends off.

Blimmey too much work....

You won't be able to get to the pipes cleanly unless you are going to remove to cut.

In that case you are better off just using a flexi hose as you still need hose's either end of the hardline and you will also most likely loose the holes to bolt back the hardline to the head.

You won't be able to get to the pipes cleanly unless you are going to remove to cut.

That's why I want to try it with some pipes that had alreadly been removed

This helps me as I've followed the other write ups to remove the factory junk and just wanted to go over it again to make sure its right.

Your engine bay looks great .....although the discoloured header tank lets the side down a little bit

The previous pipe work mods you have done look to be well thought out, and done to a very high standard and I can understand the reasons and benefits the mods should give.

But I'm not sure what benefit you get from removing the evap pipe to the turbo inlet pipe ?????

I thought the fuel tank/system on an octy is sealed and the EVAP system needs the extra pipe to the turbo inlet to breath ie; vent hydrocarbon gases from the fuel tank when the one way valve in the manifold is closed due to boost pressure.

For normal round town driving were you are on and off boost I would guess the removal of the manifold pipe wont cause any real issues......but say you were driving at a constant 70mph on a motorway with a head on wind (on boost with the manifold one way valve closed) then surely the EVAP system would need the pipe to the turbo inlet in order for the fuel sytem to breath ?????

But.......maybe I'm wrong, I dont know, maybe I worry too much, yes lol

Bill.