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312's, now have long pedal travel

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Hi Guys

Just had the fluid changed after having 312's fitted. The pedal seems to have a lot more travel in it ever since I had them fitted. It it any easy process to put back to what is was? I've had a search and heard about air in the lines, and the master cylinder will needing bleeding??

Anyone else had this problem, if so how did you sort it.

Thanks

Jon

Sounds very much like it needs bleeding, simple process if you know how but not something i would recomend you diy if you don't.

Shouldn't have lost much fluid though. Tbh you can just gravity bleed them if your clever about it.

Did the fluid level drop?

  • Author

Cheers lads.

It's going back to my Uncles garage tomorrow so couldn't tell you if the fluid level has dropped, I cant complain, it only cost me £50 for fitting and a fluid change. God its good to have family who own garages :rofl:

Will tell him they need bleeding, and will get him on the case tomorrow.

Thanks again :thumbup:

gravity bled mine no problem when i changed the fluid :)

by gravity bled u mean?

All I do if a fluid change isnt required if fit the caliper up and leave the old one still connected on the fluid line. Then last thing pop off the line at the caliper and screw it onto the new one. Open up the bleed screw until fluid drips out, voilà it's bled.

If no air is allowed in the top, there is only air in the caliper. The weight of the fluid pushes the air out and when there is fluid all the air must be gone.

All I do if a fluid change isnt required if fit the caliper up and leave the old one still connected on the fluid line. Then last thing pop off the line at the caliper and screw it onto the new one. Open up the bleed screw until fluid drips out, voilà it's bled.

If no air is allowed in the top, there is only air in the caliper. The weight of the fluid pushes the air out and when there is fluid all the air must be gone.

:thumbup: :thumbup: Exactly as I did on mine

what if a fluid change is required?

Then I'd advise do the above, then bleed the brakes as normal.

Thing is it's not rocket science, but there are at least two or three threads running at the moment where people have fitted them and got pedal travel. I e fitted god knows how many (NeoVR's being the first some seven years ago I reckon) and never had an issue.

Just make sure the bleed nipple is at the top, had some numpties put them on upside down before now.

what if a fluid change is required?

i helped my mechanic change my fluid

all you do is undo each caliper bleed screw (one at a time)

then one person pumps the brake pedal slowly and continuously until the new fluid runs through

then tighten back up the bleed screw

pretty simple once you've seen it done

Can be dangerous though. As when a bleed valve is open the pedal travels further than normal operation so can invert the seals in the master cylinder. That's why a pressure bleeder is advised. If you have to do manually don't floor the pedal, half way down will do.

Can be dangerous though. As when a bleed valve is open the pedal travels further than normal operation so can invert the seals in the master cylinder. That's why a pressure bleeder is advised. If you have to do manually don't floor the pedal, half way down will do.

Absolutely superb advice. This is a point often over looked by non VAG garages and DIY brake bleeders. Best way to avoid it, is a suitable block of wood placed under the brake pedal (remove before driving off :rofl: ). Stick that pedal to the floor and master cylinder is toast.

Also if you get air into the ABS unit, it needs to have the valves modulated while bleeding to remove the air. This required suitable test equipment.

Incedentally if replacing an ABS unit with a new pre bled unit place a bar in between the seat and the brake pedal before undoing the pipes and you don't loose any fluid. Then you can do a normal bleed and don't need to do the diag bleed.

You's two are like an Encyclopedia of Skoda's :thumbup:

Ought to be after this many years lol

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