Thanks Jon,

I'll do that next week now where can I get some Castrol BNS grease from?

Lloyd

PM me your address and I'll send you some. I seem to have loads of it.

Originally posted by Disco@Impreziv in this post

Reversed: It does exactly what it says on the tin.

Apparently its as simple as plumbing the inlet into the normal outlet and the outlet into the normal inlet!

are there anuy negative effects?

Jon you have a PM

I'll post it tomorrow Lloyd.

17705: Pressure drop between Turbo and throttle valve (check DV!) 35-00

I know that one well!

...and 17608

Ian, if I send you a .dat file, do you want to try and open it? Its got all the error codes and their explanations in plain English like the one above (check DV).

can we put it up as an faq...for future reference?

Quite possibly, if I get round to sending the file to Ian.

Oh and Des, I forgot to give you the grease. I'll post yours and Lloyds tomorrow.

Jon

You have installed the forge dv in reverse or the original way? Is there finally any difference in the orientation, powerwise and noisewise or not? Is it good or bad? Reverse it or not?

Slightly concerned about this reversing business - if I understand it correctly, normally the valve is held shut by a spring but when the throttle is closed the pressure under the diaphragm (or piston) is sufficient to lift it against the spring pressure due to the lack of boost pressure from above, thus venting the excess air back into the airbox.

Now if you put the inlet above the diagphragm/piston surely that is just going to hold it even more firmly closed? How can this allow the valve to function in its designated manner? Anybody able to explain please?

Originally posted by ncarring in this post

Slightly concerned about this reversing business - if I understand it correctly, normally the valve is held shut by a spring but when the throttle is closed the pressure under the diaphragm (or piston) is sufficient to lift it against the spring pressure due to the lack of boost pressure from above, thus venting the excess air back into the airbox.

Now if you put the inlet above the diagphragm/piston surely that is just going to hold it even more firmly closed? How can this allow the valve to function in its designated manner? Anybody able to explain please?

I dont know... it still dumps.. engine has not blown up.. from other threads i thought many had done this? the hesitation between gears is less?

One of the things you discover as you add more mods and instrumentation to this car is sometimes things don't work the way you assume they should. Take Boost for instance. Adding the boost gauge gave me a window into how, when and how much boost was developing over a variety of condidtions. I was surprised how much throttle was required to put the car "on boost" and how soon boost dropped out with slight relaxation of the pedal. Hmmm....Maybe time to grease the DV (Forge 006, Blue spring, aluminum, piston). Upon dissassembly everything looked fine. Began to think how and why the piston operates. Boost pressure bleed, spring tension and vacume affect whether the piston remains seated (and holds boost) or not (and bleeds boost). I figured increasing the spring tension would keep the valve seated longer. Off to Lowes for some washers (shims). I placed 2 washers (35mmx2.5mm) into the piston for a total of a 5mm shim, inserted the spring and bolted it back together. Guess what?

Boost now comes on with slight throttle tip in, holds longer, and is more linear in it's delivery. Not a bad improvement for 16 cents! One you can feel and see on the Gauge.

Here's the DV with shims (er....washers). Just slip them into the piston, insert spring, and bolt back together.

Anyone ever tried this one?

It's from http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/592898.phtml

no but i might try it!

I also think to try it, tomorrow maybe...have to buy these washers or shims (how do you call them?) and some grease ...

How about a DV you can adjust by twisting the top + or -, or make it into a blow off or a diverter valve while still on the car or maybe just adjust the noise level.

Originally posted by delcac in this post

How about a DV you can adjust by twisting the top + or -, or make it into a blow off or a diverter valve while still on the car or maybe just asjudt the noise level.

Interesting...Have you tested this one on your car? From what I've heard and red our engines are not happy with bovs - am I right or not? What brand-model is this one and where can I find it (any links)?

That looks like the GFB Stealth?

I bougth the hybrid one (pic attached) not fitted it yet - will do shortly after i've got a boost gauge. I think the different between the Stealth + the Hybrid (besides about 125 quid!) is that the Stealth lets you control the size of the vent port so you can alter the noise....

There's a bolt on the top which you turn to strengthen (or not) the vent spring - so totally slack gives you maximum vent (and maximum psssst between gears - also a CEL).

It's a trial and error thing to basically tighten it up bit-by-bit until you get the right balance between recircing and venting - enough recircing to keep the ecu happy and enough venting to keep you happy

Originally posted by ffelan in this post

no but i might try it!

I'm not certain that's such a good idea. You're messing with the pressure in the system, and from what I understand, the 1.8T is a low pressure turbo.

Might be fine for stuff like Imprezas, but I wouldn't be surprised if altering the DV like that resulted in cracked pipes.

But of course, I'm not as au-fait as you guys are with the "oily bits."

Well not having a boost gauge, I'm not going to mess too much with mine. Remapping has already more than doubled the boost from standard (0.5 bar to 1.05) on mine so I'm not sure I want to push it too much higher. I would like it to hold a bit better, but without a gauge I'm not going to tinker.

I do plan to replace the factory DV some time soon though - I'm not convinced the new one put in during my remap hasn't failed already....

What DVs has anybody got? I'm not interested in boy racer noises, just performance, so BOVs are not for me. I know there are two Forge ones that people use, and a Bailey one. What else? Any recommendations? (If I knew all the alternatives I could start a poll but I don't).

Nick,

did you just have a standard DV put during your remap? If I need one when I'm at Jabba I'll get them to fit a Bailey one.

Not sure whether these need any maintenance though.

Yes - just another standard Bosch one - the original had a split diaphragm. Didn't fancy the 85?? quid for the Bailey one at the same time as the remap and Mike said the standard one would continue to do the job. Now I'm thinking I want that slightly sharper response so I might splash out.

Originally posted by DaveU in this post

That looks like the GFB Stealth?

I bougth the hybrid one (pic attached) not fitted it yet - will do shortly after i've got a boost gauge. I think the different between the Stealth + the Hybrid (besides about 125 quid!) is that the Stealth lets you control the size of the vent port so you can alter the noise....

There's a bolt on the top which you turn to strengthen (or not) the vent spring - so totally slack gives you maximum vent (and maximum psssst between gears - also a CEL).

It's a trial and error thing to basically tighten it up bit-by-bit until you get the right balance between recircing and venting - enough recircing to keep the ecu happy and enough venting to keep you happy

Yes it is a GFB and yes the noise is adjustable the big diff is it can be a diverter valve only if you wish and you don't have to take it apart to adjust anything.

Des

Originally posted by delcac in this post

Yes it is a GFB and yes the noise is adjustable the big diff is it can be a diverter valve only if you wish and you don't have to take it apart to adjust anything.

Des

Des

How loud is it on the car? scooby HKS loud or a little saner?