Hi all,

have been meaning to air this one for a while now.

I have an irritating creak coming from the rear of the car when the car is driven over any kind of undulation - eg speedhump.

I initially put it down to some piece of trim or heatshielding making a noise and transmitting into the cabin but on close

listening it seemed to come from the rear doors. As a test, I opened both rear doors and just latched them on the safety

latch without closing them fully and drove around a bit. Result - no creaking.

This would indicate that some (suspect hard plastic) part is creaking against some other part or the body and producing this

annoyance.

It only seems to happen in dry conditions so I think damp conditions/rain provide some lubrication and hence stop the creak.

I wondered if anyone else had been afflicted and narrowed down the cause before I undertake a possible time consuming

process to nail the source.

There are no obvious signs of rubbing evident by the way. Hmmmmmm!

Don't suppose you have greased the hinges? Took away the creek in my car

There have been loads of posts about the creaks from the rubber seals at the top of the rear doors. All sorts of experiments made to stop them doing so, but I dont think any were successful in the long term.

Assuming that's what you are referring to (you can replicate the noise by pushing against the top of the doors from outside), my short term fix was to lubricate the door rubber with silicone, but whatever you do, remember it's there and dont ever let it get on your sponge when washing the car because if it gets on the windscreen, you'll very much regret it!

Have to agree with Speedsport, the door seals have been a source of creaks on my SM. As said around the rear doors especially. I tried a silicone lubricant but creaks back quite quickly. Then I tried a spray can of DRY lubricant, may or not contain silicone - probably does, but it cured the problem and has been creak free for some months so far.

While we are talking noises, has anyone found a permanent cure for creaking surrounds on the rev counter and speedo

Further to mine above, the spray is PTFE based not silicone.

Further to mine above, the spray is PTFE based not silicone.

Can you post a link of where you got it please? If I Google it all the addresses are USA.

Fred

Don't know if this will be the same stuff as chriskelland referred to - but I have a can of ptfe based dry lube - not had to use it on the yeti yet fortunately - they sell it (and lots of other interesting stuff, I find) in Maplin.

I just used normal black bumper cleaner (Mer) on the door rubbers.

It took the squeak out of my nearside door.

tom

Hi All,

It's called Pitstop - L, distributed by a firm called Scotts in Dorchester, Dorset, 01305 260555. All info off the can, I tried a search but all I get is Scotts with a paintwork protection system, it's the same firm but no links on the page. It came when I got my caravan serviced they used it to lube all the rubber bushes and non metal bearings like cupboard locks and runners. Seems to work. I get to keep the part empty can. Not sure but I think it's made in Germany.

Most stuff in Maplin is good, been dealing with them for years. If their stuff is ptfe based it should do the trick.

Nice old call you've got Fred. I did have a G5+2 for a while until the club folded.

73 de G6LRY/G0JEK.

Thanks for your replies, sounds like a fairly common issue and one

that's generated solutions that are helpful indeed. I have not come

Across this particular problem in previous cars so I wonder what's

So different with the Yeti door seal design?

I think the problem is that it is a 4X4 built in the style of a car without a chassis, possibly using subframes. So there is a natural amount of body flexing on rough ground or road humps. Just the nature of the beast.

HAPPY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!

I just used normal black bumper cleaner (Mer) on the door rubbers.

It took the squeak out of my nearside door.

tom

or this :- http://shop.autobritedirect.co.uk/einszett-rubber-care-gummi-pflege-100ml-760-p.asp

I think the problem is that it is a 4X4 built in the style of a car without a chassis, possibly using subframes. So there is a natural amount of body flexing on rough ground or road humps. Just the nature of the beast.

I'm not so sure that is the reason, if it was then sure my old 5 series estates would have done the same. the Yeti monocoque is pretty strong.

Mike

[quote name=chriskelland'

I think the problem is that it is a 4X4 built in the style of a car without a chassis, possibly using subframes. So there is a natural amount of body flexing on rough ground or road humps. Just the nature of the beast.

quote name='rockhopper' date='25 December 2010 - 10:41' timestamp='1293273675' post='2216853]

I'm not so sure that is the reason, if it was then sure my old 5 series estates would have done the same. the Yeti monocoque is pretty strong.

I'm afraid that Chriskelland is right. The reason the door seals creak is quite simply that the body is flexing diagonally - "corner to corner". The suspension is quite stiff and there's not much suspension travel, which in extreme means that the car will lift a rear wheel completely off the ground when traversing a cross axle ridge. The car has been designed to give wonderful on road handling, with off-road capability being secondary.

Most 4/5 door cars do flex (some hatchback cars flex to such a degree when you jack one corner that you cant close the tailgate), the problem here is the rubber door seals have been made of a material that "grabs" the paint on the closure. This could be something to do with the otherwise very effective 3 layer seals that Skoda have used in an attempt to exclude noise from outside the car.

It's more annoying than anything. I have noticed that in the current very cold weather, the creaks seem to have gone, presumably they'll return with warmer weather! :S

I use a product called Gummi Pflege which you'll find on Ebay.

My previous Mercedes Benz SLK sounded awful until the rubber seals in the folding roof had been treated. M-B had their own product but the one above was great.

John

I think the problem is that it is a 4X4 built in the style of a car without a chassis, possibly using subframes. So there is a natural amount of body flexing on rough ground or road humps. Just the nature of the beast.

I don't think that are many cars in existence that don't flex to

some degree or other so I think the problem lies in the seal design,

Material choice, tolerances or build error. Car designers know exactly

how much flex the body the body will exhibit and what their design must

cope with, and if they don't get it right then the NVH or 'squeak and rattle'

teams should pick it up. Having worked in exterior design and engineering

for over 20 years and been witness to it's quality demands - this sort

of thing really surprises me. It just seems a bit sloppy that's all. It's not the

case that Skoda pay it less attention than Bentley, they're both

In the Volks/Audi group and subject to the same sign-off procedures

Back in a time long ago. The outfit I used to work for issued instructions that you never ever jack a certain make of car up without all the doors and windows being closed due to the risk of permanent damage. No I won't say, suffice to say that there not many around now.

Body flexing is a designed in feature that works with the suspension. All man made metal structures will move under stress, if they don't they break! SM's are no different. I will have a look as soon as I can, but I believe there are actually two seals an inner and an outer, could it be that the effectiveness of the outer seal means that the inner seal is always dry? I'll give it some thought. One thing I have noticed was that when I approach a road hump straight on, no squeak, take it at an angle a little squeak.

The Pat Monster creaked quite badly from all 4 inner (main) door seals; could push against the doors when closed and they would creak :( Had her looked at by a local dealer who adjusted all the doors; improved things quite considerably but not completely.

Interesting thing is that our Fabia II dose not creak on the move but you can get the seals to creak if you push against the closed doors as with the Yeti. However the older Fabia I does not creak at all :wonder:

My conclusion goes along the line that the modern door seals are quite 'sticky' and cling to the bodywork (as mentioned above) and certainly with my previous Monster, the shell was quite susceptible to flex. Think this can be a variable between shells even on an automated line; just takes a slight misalignment between panels or a couple of weaker spot welds.

TP

I was acting taximan yesterday, and paid special attention to see if I have the same problem - I guess I must just be lucky since I cannot for the life of me detect any creaking or other noises from the seals. I hope I do not speak too soon. I wonder if this is indeed either an adjustment thing, or to do with how the seals are cleaned from the factory. I am a pretty fastidious car washer - hopefully using good 'detailing' practices, and I always wash/wipe/dry all door reveals and seals when I wash the beast - normally weekly if weather permits. I am wondering if this has contributed to my luck.

Edit - another thought - I haven't checked back through the posts, but I imagine the sunroof might contribute to flexibility that might cause this - or perhaps, even, the opposite is the case(?)

Edited 26 December, 201015 yr by roguebrit

Thanks Plumber, this is what I had thought was happening. As it's the inner seals that creak a small amount of PTFE spray will not/ should not be washed off as it's protected by the outer door seals. A project for the better weather.

While I'm here, I take it no one has a solution for the creaky instrument binnacle surrounds?

As far as fixed glass in cars is concerned this is now treated as being part of the car's structure.

Have to agree with Speedsport, the door seals have been a source of creaks on my SM. As said around the rear doors especially. I tried a silicone lubricant but creaks back quite quickly. Then I tried a spray can of DRY lubricant, may or not contain silicone - probably does, but it cured the problem and has been creak free for some months so far.

While we are talking noises, has anyone found a permanent cure for creaking surrounds on the rev counter and speedo

Ihave had a creak in my dash sice day 1 (20 dec 2009) on my 170, it has been back to the dealer at least six times for this fault most recent was 2 weeks ago,they changed the instrument panel the third time it went back.(so they said). It still creaks ,so i think i am stuck with it.

For what it is worth, I had this problem with a Renault Grand Modus. I was convinced it was the body flexing, and after all kinds of DIY attempts - like spraying around the seals and so on - took the car into the dealer under warranty. They replaced the two gas struts, and for about 50Km all was silent. But then it started again - as did a series of visits to the dealership to cure it! Finally, one day when it was particularly driving me nuts, I pulled into a random Renault dealer in desperation. They knew the problem immediately and greased the actual latch mechanism. Hey presto it was gone. I'd have bet their solution was wrong... but the proof of the pudding........

Hi Everyone,

I also faced this problem of creaking doors in my Yeti in India. Thanks to Briskoda, I came to know that it is because of the rubber door seals. I further checked this and if I pushed on the top sides of the doors from outside, when the doors were closed and the car was stationary, I could hear the creaking sound. I realised that it was the rubber-felt seals on the top which were making this noise (they look velvety) at the top side edge of the doors. So I set out to look for a good rubber protectant, but in India , could not find the ones recommended by the Briskoda members. What I could find later was a product made by 3M, called "tyre and rubber protectant" - I sprayed this liberally on all the rubber-velvet seals and presto- the sounds are completely gone now.

Also, another squeaking noise from my Yeti was coming from the thermocol box which houses the jack and the tools. What I did was to take it out and put some talcum powder in the plastic case and then put the thermocol box back in. This also fixed that squeak.

Hope this will also help other Yeti owners enjoy a noiseless drive.

Thanks to everyone else for sharing their knowledge on Briskoda!

Hi,

Just want to prop this up quickly.

My Yeti creaks (sound like from all four doors) since the winter and I suspect it is the door seals, but I just want to confirm.

When I got through "chassis twisting" road, like uneven railway tracks (car crossing of course!), it "click", it sounds like rice crisies reacting to milk!

Is this the door creak we are talking about?

Thanks!

Hello,

I just went to Halfords and bought a can of Silicon Lubricant, after applying to the door seals, it clicked more? Am I missing something here or should it do that?

Thanks!