Just figuring out my options for a possible turbo replacement in the next few months. Getting more convinced that my turbo is on its way out so want to have a plan in place for when it does go.

Is it possible or sensible to replace the turbo (2.0l 8v PD 140bhp) with one from a diesel vRS?

Main concerns are whether the mounting is the same and whether it would actually give more power - or is the extra power in the vRS from ecu changes?

thanks for any help

Edited 6 January, 201115 yr by lard-ajc

Just figuring out my options for a possible turbo replacement in the next few months. Getting more convinced that my turbo is on its way out so want to have a plan in place for when it does go.

Is it possible or sensible to replace the turbo (2.0l 8v PD 140bhp) with one from a diesel vRS?

Main concerns are whether the mounting is the same and whether it would actually give more power - or is the extra power in the vRS from ecu changes?

thanks for any help

I can't help on the fit or even the differences between the two turbos, but fitting a bigger turbo is unlikely to give any real gains unless the car was already demanding more boost than the turbo could provide (and was overfuelling already) - i.e., a remap that was expecting the turbo to do more than it was capable of. To take advantage of a bigger turbo, a custom remap is needed, but the car should run just fine with a bigger turbo running on the standard map (just a bit laggier).

IIRC, they share the same turbo, although the 170 version has a slightly different part no, as its mounted differently in the 170 model.

What makes you think your Turbo is on its way out.

Edited 6 January, 201115 yr by ruffday

The PD170 turbo is electronically regulated rather than a full vacuum system on the PD140 turbo so that would have to be converted

The PD170 turbo is mounted above the manifold not below it like the PD140, thus also a different downpipe/CAT/DPF

The intake pipework is different on the PD170 turbo to the PD140 one

Could in theory be done, would cost a fair whack though and not sure of the benifits.

that seems to settle that then

main worry is that there's a high pitch whine/whistle on boost, even when the car is stationary and i just rev it. Was hpoing it was a leak and I could hear gas whistling but sounding more like bearings... (or some other metal-on-metal rubbing) and there's not as much instant power as on my wife's car (same engine)

The acception to the above would be a PD140 with a DPF, then everything would be around the right way etc.

The acception to the above would be a PD140 with a DPF, then everything would be around the right way etc.

The PD140 in the Scout does have a DPF...

The acception to the above would be a PD140 with a DPF, then everything would be around the right way etc.

so it would fit, but there doesn't look like that there's going to be any increased power from doing it anyway - will keep a look-out for a 140 version

The PD140 in the Scout does have a DPF...

This is what struck me when I glanced at the profile. My head was in BKD mode which was bar far the more common engine.

Not sure if the turbo differs from the BMM and the BMN and there would be a benifit in fitting the 170 turbo, might have a play with ETKA if I get a chance.

This is what struck me when I glanced at the profile. My head was in BKD mode which was bar far the more common engine.

Not sure if the turbo differs from the BMM and the BMN and there would be a benifit in fitting the 170 turbo, might have a play with ETKA if I get a chance.

so the turbos work in the same way, doesn't need ecu messing with?

Got a card through with my taxi mag

http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/

Edited 7 January, 201115 yr by skippy41

Got a card through with my taxi mag

http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/

got your message about replacting sonner than later - what happens if I let it destroy itself - does it do more damage than just taking the turbo out?

that seems to settle that then

main worry is that there's a high pitch whine/whistle on boost, even when the car is stationary and i just rev it. Was hpoing it was a leak and I could hear gas whistling but sounding more like bearings... (or some other metal-on-metal rubbing) and there's not as much instant power as on my wife's car (same engine)

Even with the same engine If your wifes car dosent have a DPF & yours does then you have less instant power, The Scout is mapped to give a progressive increase in fuel when you slam the pedal to reduce the soot the DPf has to deal with & also runs the smaller 105 injectors, both of which make it laggy. Removing the DPf & a remap will give around 165-170 bhp & a lot less lag.

Fitting bigger injectors & a hybrid turbo will push it up considerably but you will need a stronger clutch as well

Re your turbo get the car to a turbo specialist or VAG tuner for a better diagnosis if you can, it may something simple or even refurbable but dont run it to destruction as horrid things sometimes happen when turbos die, especially on diesels

Re your turbo get the car to a turbo specialist or VAG tuner for a better diagnosis if you can, it may something simple or even refurbable but dont run it to destruction as horrid things sometimes happen when turbos die, especially on diesels

+1 on that. Had turbo replaced on a previous car after being told some horror stories about what might happen if you leave them to self destruct.

Just figuring out my options for a possible turbo replacement in the next few months. Getting more convinced that my turbo is on its way out so want to have a plan in place for when it does go.

Is it possible or sensible to replace the turbo (2.0l 8v PD 140bhp) with one from a diesel vRS?

Main concerns are whether the mounting is the same and whether it would actually give more power - or is the extra power in the vRS from ecu changes?

thanks for any help

Wont your car still be covered under warrenty? if so id get it into the dealer for diagnosis & if the turbo is found to be failing they will replace it f.o.c.

When was the car registered? Unless it's a VERY early 2008, it's still going to be in warranty. Take it to the dealer and get them to investigate.

On the 170 turbo issue, if you're not going to adjust the mapping to suit, there's no point doing it.

Steve

got your message about replacting sonner than later - what happens if I let it destroy itself - does it do more damage than just taking the turbo out?

New inter cooler and other parts as well as trying to find all the bits of turbo

What date was it registered as it could still be under warranty??? remember its 2 years from first registration date or 60,000 miles what ever come first

Edited 7 January, 201115 yr by skippy41

My turbo is still doing police car impressions but have been told its safe to drive.

Going to have a new turbo on 17th January under warranty.Fingers crossed. Only 25000 miles and on extended servive intervals....

Edited 7 January, 201115 yr by gregoir

My turbo is still doing police car impressions but have been told its safe to drive.

Going to have a new turbo on 17th January under warranty.Fingers crossed. Only 25000 miles and on extended servive intervals....

I would kick the extended service intervals into touch and change the oil every 10,000, all those that run for 18 to 20,000 on the same oil, could be part ofthe reason the turbo goes

I would kick the extended service intervals into touch and change the oil every 10,000, all those that run for 18 to 20,000 on the same oil, could be part ofthe reason the turbo goes

+1

Remember its 2 years from first registration date or 60,000 miles what ever come first

Two years unlimited mileage warranty plus a third year but only up to 60,000 miles.

If I remember correctly from a previous post the OP's Scout has done close to 90,000 miles so no Skoda warranty :S

I don't think you've had it very long, is there no come back from the trader you bought it from?

When was the car registered? Unless it's a VERY early 2008, it's still going to be in warranty. Take it to the dealer and get them to investigate.

On the 170 turbo issue, if you're not going to adjust the mapping to suit, there's no point doing it.

Steve

the car's new enough but has done 90k miles...

that seems to settle that then

main worry is that there's a high pitch whine/whistle on boost, even when the car is stationary and i just rev it. Was hpoing it was a leak and I could hear gas whistling but sounding more like bearings... (or some other metal-on-metal rubbing) and there's not as much instant power as on my wife's car (same engine)

Mine's done that for the past 40K miles, it seems to quieten down a little once warmed up especially when stationary but whistles on its merry way when turbo spools up over 2000rpm on the move & I get the police siren effect & all that, I can hold it there at 2000rpm & hold the pitch. It has got worse over the last 40K (also now on 90k) but still nothing to worry about compared to some VAG 2.0TDI PD Turbo's I've seen & heard on you tube.

I really wouldn't worry, save your money & as some others have already said you will have no power gains that's worth the hassle of fitting one.

I'll be keeping mine for another year or so & should take it well over 115K, If mine blows I'll let you know!

Edited 8 January, 201115 yr by wilkopilko

Things can go downhill quite quickly with the whining turbo issue. You need to worry when the whining starts to sound quite harsh, mine started to make a harsh whining noise and exploded in spectacular fashion about 5,000 miles later, they were picking bits of shrapnel from all over the engine bay. EGR valve, inlet and boost hoses along with the intercooler were goosed.

All of that was preceded by a few over boost events, the variable inlet guide vanes jammed and caused to turbo to over speed and ultimately shut down.

You can get standard GT1749v turbos that have been reconditioned, sometimes with stronger internals. I got a recon from turbo technics and it was fine.

No scare mongering intended, just my two penneth based on what happened to my car.