ok so what is the verdict on a jabba remap and how long the cluch will last with it? was gona go for a jabba remap, but not so sure now with what i read about the cluches and if they can take the power. might just opt for a tuning box instead to save the clutch?? what do u all think? anyone any experiences they wana share?

Can't really comment as mines standard but from the sounds of it when mapped to around 290+ftlbs the clutch life is reduced alot. This doesnt mean don't go for Jabba. Just when/if you do ask them to lay of the torque.

Would your clutch last any longer with a tuning box?

All methods of increasing the power/torque will increase wear on the engine and associated components.

I guess it's a balancing act between increased performance and longevity and if you're (the Royal version ) sensible then it shouldn't really make a difference in every day terms.

However if you go mad and rag it at every chance...yep...you'll need a new clutch...and probably some other bits...a lot sooner.

a remapped furby with say 180 bhp and 300lb torque how will it perform differently with say 180 bhp and only 250 lb? would it just be in gear benifits? my standard furby has a bit of torque steer standard, so really you might as well have 250lb of torque and get the power down then 300 and be spinnin and weavin all over the road? what ya think? plus your cluch will last.

The general vibes tend to be that for the long life of your clutch / flywheel, its best to limit the torque until > 2,400 rpm, it seems to be the combination of low revs in high gears that causes it, when you try to accelerate hard using a high gear at low revs it causes maximum strain on the clutch and flywheel. To accelerate hard, you should ensure you are over 2,000 rpm IMO.

You may have noticed that the PD150 and PD160 barely have any extra torque over the PD130, and I think thats for a reason.

Clutch issues aren't only associated with 'tuned' cars, there are plenty of standard cars out there as well as ones that have chips/software/tuning boxes that have suffered from seemingly early clutch wear. It depends on how you're going to drive the car, but they are reknowned as a weak point. We detune alot of our PD software due to clutches. I know JBS now have uprated clutches available for the majority of VAG diesels!

Yeah, I've heard that the clutch can slip in a standard car if you ask too much of it at too low revs... never had any problem myself though, and I do drive hard and use the gears and revs, which seems to be the best way...

So on average, how many miles are you Jabba'd boy's getting before you start to get the slipping?

Do you think you are getting Clutch Slip because of wear or just if you boot it and try to lay down too much power?

Ross, if you're reading this - how is your clutch going, you seem to be running a fair bit of power.

ok so what is the verdict on a jabba remap and how long the cluch will last with it? was gona go for a jabba remap, but not so sure now with what i read about the cluches and if they can take the power. might just opt for a tuning box instead to save the clutch?? what do u all think? anyone any experiences they wana share?

If you are worried about the clutch why bother with any form of tuning? Any form of tuning will bring the risk of clutch problems.

If you are worried about the clutch why bother with any form of tuning? Any form of tuning will bring the risk of clutch problems.

Thats a bit harsh mate - It's about doing some research and guaging opinions before jumping in and making a decision. Then buying what you think will suit your needs.

Thats a bit harsh mate - It's about doing some research and guaging opinions before jumping in and making a decision. Then buying what you think will suit your needs.

Dave wasn't being harsh, just giving you a truthful opinion.

AFAIK all the major tuners, including the supposedly "milder" maps are causing clutch slippage on the Fabia.

Mine was mapped at 3,000 and now has nearly 26,000 on the clock. I do have the occasional clutch slip, but if you drive it smoothly, the clutch is fine. Just don't boot it everywhere. Feed the power in gently. It helps alot, and gives the benefit of being quicker too as your not choking it up.

Mine was mapped at 3,000 and now has nearly 26,000 on the clock. I do have the occasional clutch slip, but if you drive it smoothly, the clutch is fine. Just don't boot it everywhere. Feed the power in gently. It helps alot, and gives the benefit of being quicker too as your not choking it up.

I'd agree with that statement.

Im only going for the uprated clutch as 1. I can fit it myself, thus having no labour charge and 2. im planning on some 'other' mods so need a stronger clutch.

Very true - that said, I also look at it from this angle: If the clutch does go on my car, and it's not under warranty, I'll fit the uprated one.

If it is under warranty would you be able to get the uprated one fitted (at the cost difference?)

Very much doubt you would get the clutch under warranty anyway. It is a wearable item. These, along with brake linings and wipers etc are not covered under your warranty.

Very much doubt you would get the clutch under warranty anyway. It is a wearable item. These, along with brake linings and wipers etc are not covered under your warranty.

unless you can prove that the clutch was defective and therefore that was the cause of the failure.

As others have stated, clutch's go on both modd'd and standard cars the key issue is to be kind to your car, work with it and not against it (so to speak).

"With great power comes great responsibilty"

Torque is proportional to power, given the same engine, so there will be only one torque figure for a remapped Fabia engine at a given bhp output.

BHP is the rate that torque is produced, thats why petrols have alot more bhp than torque.

the drive line loading is increased if its at low RPM, The up-rated Helix flywheel and clutch assembly is rated at 320 ft-lb, cannot remember what a standard one is rated at.

We put 280 ft-lb on a standard clutch and have not seen any problems at this level

Hi clutch wear is not covered under warranty.

It is a wear and tear item so is not covered.

But we have done alot of searching here and got some results for an uprated clutch for the vrs.

I personally have a theory on clutch wear and this stems from my youth, when i bought several bargain bucket motors with several thousand on the clock only for the clutch to give up the ghost almost as soon as bought.

I reckon that most people don't actually know how to drive and if they do they forget as soon as they have passed their test! How may times do you say get to traffic lights, average traffic build ups etc and don't take the car out of gear take your foot of the clutch pedal and put the handbrake on! Now let's be truthfull! Doing this will only cook the clutch, therefore second hand buys are always a bit of a lottery when it comes to this. So what i mean is look after the clutch and it will look after you, as it stands we don't ride bikes :moped: so the set up is different!

I didnt realise that sitting stationary, with the clutch down ready to go caused it any harm? Not that I do anyway, but I cant see why it would do any harm... OTOH, you will wear it out quicker by doing what a lot of numpties seem to do, and that is sitting with their car on the biting point at traffic lights. The amount of people I've seen who do this is astonishing quite frankly.

Cars have dry plates, bikes are immersed in oil, that's why a biker can sit at the lights on the bite point and really that's the correct way to ride. With the clutch depressed say at the lights or on the bite point will cook it and obviously reduce the life. Only made these comparisons so that if you do get the Jabba treatment it's a good idea to look after the clutch in normal day to day use, unlike most who seem to sit for ages with one foot on the clutch and one on the break!! :thumbdwn:

You'll only cook your clutch if the plates are in contact, i.e. at biting point. Fully depressed, all you're wearing out is the release bearing. If you need the handbrake at the lights, you should take the car out of gear.

You'll only cook your clutch if the plates are in contact, i.e. at biting point. Fully depressed, all you're wearing out is the release bearing. If you need the handbrake at the lights, you should take the car out of gear.

I agree with this but, when I was taught to drive I was told to leave it in gear when at the traffic lights. I never could see the point in why I had to as it seemed silly, not just wearing out the release bearing but also my leg

I agree with this but, when I was taught to drive I was told to leave it in gear when at the traffic lights. I never could see the point in why I had to as it seemed silly, not just wearing out the release bearing but also my leg

The idea behind this is so that you can move the car quickly, should you need to - like, if an emergency vehicle appeared and needed you to move. Considering how long it takes to get in gear though, I wouldn't say it makes that much difference!

Rob.