Just got spare air box and wanting to get some extra air in there and wondering whats best way to mod it got k and n panel for sake of it so pics or how to's would be mint and any parts needed

briskoda.net/forums/topic/181301-airbox-mod-and-3-pipping/page__pid__2272571#entry2272571

Drill the base of the box,

De-fin and smoothe the inside,

get an air extraction tube and route it down the cold side of the car and out through the front vent.

Results in a nice sound and a better throttle response and I have found at higher speeds it runs smoother.

Costs £10 and a couple of hours of your time.

I do not understand the drilling at all. You do not want to hoover up hot air from the engine.

Will look at this as link won't work on my phone think i'll leave the drilling of the lower air box and going to fit a scoop into the lower crud guard to run the pipe to, previous owner lost the engine cover so gets some extra cooling as it is lol

link won't work????????????

link won't work????????????

try this;

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/181301-airbox-mod-and-3-pipping/page__pid__2272571#entry2272571

I do not understand the drilling at all. You do not want to hoover up hot air from the engine.

Mate...the mistake your making is your looking at this in an intelligent way, what you need to do is take your brain "out of gear" for a moment or two.

Then it will all make perfect sense

More noise = more torque, more bhp, wider power band and a better throttle response.

HTH

Bill.

Mate...the mistake your making is your looking at this in an intelligent way, what you need to do is take your brain "out of gear" for a moment or two.

Then it will all make perfect sense

More noise = more torque, more bhp, wider power band and a better throttle response.

HTH

Bill.

I disagree....he's right.

How do you know the air from the cold air feed is more prominant in the box than the air getting sucked in from the holes?

There'll be fa ram effect from the hose.

And if it's the warm air from the holes it won't be dense cold air as required for more bhp.

More noise = more bhp = bs

sarcasm really doesn't work over the internet

Edited 10 February, 201115 yr by madmike01uk

pah

Lmao at above comments guys who just using a cold air feed from front bumper with a trick vent and ducting from the bottom lower crap guard in the bumper same tent track cars and race boys use in rear windows etc...

I disagree....he's right.

How do you know the air from the cold air feed is more prominant in the box than the air getting sucked in from the holes?

There'll be fa ram effect from the hose.

And if it's the warm air from the holes it won't be dense cold air as required for more bhp.

More noise = more bhp = bs

'confused now' lol

is it better to drill the airbox or not? i thought that the intaken air passsed through the intercooler before entering the engine, so does it matter if you are drawing in warm air as well as cool air? or have i got it totally wrong? :S

And its meant to be vent not tent in my post

'confused now' lol

is it better to drill the airbox or not?

No.

If your 1.8t is fitted with a KO3s, leave all the intake std VAG spec, right up to the turbo compressor housing.....inc the filter

The above applies to std and modified cars.

Bill.

Erm i cut a hole in mine and put a pipe to it from bottom of bumper ..... Is this wrong? P.s the end of the pipe is red where the air goes in apparently red gives more bhp....

No.

If your 1.8t is fitted with a KO3s, leave all the intake std VAG spec, right up to the turbo compressor housing.....inc the filter

The above applies to std and modified cars.

Bill.

i presume it is a ko3s as the car is totaly standard apart from a uprated recirc valve and a pipercross panel filter. so its not a good idea to fit a 3 inch cold air intake then?

2003 octavia vrs on a 53 reg

P.s the end of the pipe is red where the air goes in apparently red gives more bhp....

Red gives an extra 20bhp, where as if you leave it black it will actually make your car go backwards instead. The real trick here is to install some red and green LEDs in the opening, that mod gives an additional +15bhp on top of the +20 for painting the opening red. After that increase you will when need to fit a homemade aluminium spoiler then size of a small council estate to the back of the car.

Leave it OEM if it couldve been made better by a few little bodges VW wouldve done it from the factory!! lol

Daft as it sounds, the ridges and the trumpet inside the lid are there to slow down / smooth the ariflow out so that the MAF sensor can get a proper reading, therefore make the engine run better.

Running it smoothed out *may* ultimately cause your engine to run slightly leaner (or richer), which would be compensated for anyway, so the airbox mod is, in effect, pointless.

Edited 14 February, 201115 yr by rk696

Leave it OEM if it couldve been made better by a few little bodges VW wouldve done it from the factory!! lol

exactly - some folk don't seem to understand basic carnot heat engine cycles and fluid dynamics

add on top of the the factory ecu settings and you find most engine "mods" will do bugger all for performance

Like danny and STSKODa both said - VW have spent £XXX on R&D of the intake and airbox etc. How can one man with a dremel do better?

Like danny and STSKODa both said - VW have spent £XXX on R&D of the intake and airbox etc. How can one man with a dremel do better?

You need to look at the bit of flappy plastic wedged into the wing from your airbox, not the best

Some of the guff the VW techs are forced to put on these engine to satisfy regulations from different countries is unbelievable, I think the engines are far from how they would like them. Look at the SAI kit we have just to suit certain states in the US. Some of the guys on here have worked out some fantastic mods a lot of them proven on the track and rolling roads.

Do not underestimate what you can achieve with a dremel and some gaffer tape

Fair point about the gaffer tape. Check out my sig!

I'm not on about the regulatory stuff though. Obviously the standard airox isn't perfect for performance, but it is still pretty good. I have modded mine by running a 3" tumble drier pipe inside the arch from the front grille pointing at the pipe through the wing into the airbox. That should get a nice bit of cold air to it. Can't hurt.

The airbox itself though, I would leave alone. Smoothing it inside and removing the trumpet will affect the maf readings, and *could* even make the engine lose power. As I said before, the airbox design is not a coincidence. The trumpet and ridges etc are there for a reason.

Just what I think

am I correct in saying the 225 bhp TT and S3 use the same airbox and filter as the vrs? if so there cannot be much wrong with the design can there?

I could be totally wrong tho