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16 hours ago, stever750 said:

Teddington Lock, the start of the tidal Thames. I work frequently in London so occasionally take my camera. 

FB_IMG_1534972716352.jpg

FB_IMG_1534972713163.jpg

 

great shots and full of atmosphere

 

i used to live in hampton village near teddington (1980) and remember the floods...nearly right up to the main road

managed to get into macdonalds though and find a dry parking space

cheers

geof

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15 hours ago, vectra1 said:

Went for a stroll around my hometown the other night and grabbed a few shots
 

Down by the River

 

 

Quiet Night

 

for night shots unless the sky holds some interest try not to show it too much...its dark and drags down the impact of your illuminated areas

as your shots are "centralised" to some extent where on could place an horizon...try some cropping from the top till the interesting and well lit parts start to "come alive"

cheers

geof

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10 minutes ago, fabdavrav said:

Did this the other day..

 

its ok ..not a 100% to my liking, 

 

 

P8180011-reduced-with-copyright.jpg

 

that's the start of good photography ...self criticism and knowing the shot could be better

next time eh?

over exposure...main cause...letting the camera decide..!!

take spot readings from bright areas and put them in the camera on manual...so any movement of your composing wont give "wrong" readings....all over the area of your take there are hundreds of light readings...f2.8 to f32 at 1/3200 to any over 1 second readings...iso doesnt play a part except to look through the lens and gobble down YOUR settings....not the camera's

over exposure will burn out any detail so that it is not recoverable in post processing

under exposure still has some detail...

both can be adjusted in post processing if you have a mind to take that on

took me years...and only since i got digital images...

cheers

geof

 

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4 minutes ago, mrcrow said:

 

that's the start of good photography ...self criticism and knowing the shot could be better

next time eh?

over exposure...main cause...letting the camera decide..!!

take spot readings from bright areas and put them in the camera on manual...so any movement of your composing wont give "wrong" readings....all over the area of your take there are hundreds of light readings...f2.8 to f32 at 1/3200 to any over 1 second readings...iso doesnt play a part except to look through the lens and gobble down YOUR settings....not the camera's

over exposure will burn out any detail so that it is not recoverable in post processing

under exposure still has some detail...

both can be adjusted in post processing if you have a mind to take that on

took me years...and only since i got digital images...

cheers

geof

 

Indeed. Spot metering on high dynamic range lighting is always advisable 

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11 minutes ago, stever750 said:

Indeed. Spot metering on high dynamic range lighting is always advisable 

 @stever750

cheers..when i used to do transparency work incorrect exposure wrecked the shot even if you were a stop and a half out...both directions..either thin highlights or muddy shadows...

glad we all have digital imaging now though and a chance to take hundreds of shots and delete them all...without real cost

cheers

geof

 

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On ‎23‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 17:06, mrcrow said:

 

that's the start of good photography ...self criticism and knowing the shot could be better

next time eh?

over exposure...main cause...letting the camera decide..!!

take spot readings from bright areas and put them in the camera on manual...so any movement of your composing wont give "wrong" readings....all over the area of your take there are hundreds of light readings...f2.8 to f32 at 1/3200 to any over 1 second readings...iso doesnt play a part except to look through the lens and gobble down YOUR settings....not the camera's

over exposure will burn out any detail so that it is not recoverable in post processing

under exposure still has some detail...

both can be adjusted in post processing if you have a mind to take that on

took me years...and only since i got digital images...

cheers

geof

 

 

 

I've been doing photography for 30yrs....lol...

 

Mainly landscapes...& that shot was just the camera set to "live composite" mode.....& its just a point & shoot, 1.2.3 small sensor..mainly trying to get the full range of motion on the fair ground rides...just flipping strobes kept going off & that angle was the cleanest & least cluttered.....& I've not done any processing on it as in basic form its not "clean" framing etc....

 

This is more my scene:-

 

 

 

 

Panorama-P9190061-63,18-4-crop-reduced.jpg

Edited by fabdavrav
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10 minutes ago, fabdavrav said:

 

 

I've been doing photography for 30yrs....lol...

 

Mainly landscapes...& that shot was just the camera set to "live composite" mode.....& its just a point & shoot, 1.2.3 small sensor..mainly trying to get the full range of motion on the fair ground rides...just flipping strobes kept going off & that angle was the cleanest & least cluttered.....& I've not done any processing on it as in basic form its not "clean" framing etc....

 

This is more my scene:-

 

 

 

Panorama P9190061-63,18-4 crop reduced.jpg

 

i can see your point now old chap....i started photography in 1964 with 35mm black and white and am i glad things have gone digital...took some time though and 1000,s of fim cassettes in the bin

i like your take on that landscape especially the composition...and those two people who though are nearly just our of frame hold the thing and bounce ones eye right...or left that is...back to the river mouth...past the cloud waves

really good pastel mood

you do what many dont do....either stitch or do a hard crop...they assume the sensor format is all they have to frame with

the framing comes later and over shooting to get a core image is the way to do it...

glad to have seen your work

cheers

geof

 

Edited by mrcrow
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31463803595_987daa2d2a_o.jpgsk by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

 

this was taken with my first digital pos...olympus C740

 

s-l300.jpg

the lens was good...the sensor sensitivity and size not quite what we have today

 

cheers

geof

Edited by mrcrow
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On ‎23‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 18:01, mrcrow said:

 

 

i like your take on that landscape especially the composition...and those two people who though are nearly just our of frame hold the thing and bounce ones eye right...or left that is...back to the river mouth...past the cloud waves

really good pastel mood

you do what many dont do....either stitch or do a hard crop...they assume the sensor format is all they have to frame with

the framing comes later and over shooting to get a core image is the way to do it...

glad to have seen your work

cheers

geof

 

 

 

If you look closely (the full size one is easy to see)….you can see a red dot from the drone the father is flying to show his kids....its just above the horizon & just left of them...& its actually the sand bar..so not a river, but I know what you mean...

 

& then I do close up....

 

P7250016,-full-frame.jpg

Edited by fabdavrav
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17 hours ago, mrcrow said:

for night shots unless the sky holds some interest try not to show it too much...its dark and drags down the impact of your illuminated areas

as your shots are "centralised" to some extent where on could place an horizon...try some cropping from the top till the interesting and well lit parts start to "come alive"

cheers

geof

 

 

Thanks
Something to look out for next time out
all criticism  and comments welcome as I never did any form of photography courses nor was a member of clubs.
Just picked up cameras and headed off :)

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4 hours ago, vectra1 said:

 

 

Thanks
Something to look out for next time out
all criticism  and comments welcome as I never did any form of photography courses nor was a member of clubs.
Just picked up cameras and headed off :)

we all did start off...clubs aren't necessary...they are really for competition... a class at college will help in some respects

if one has a "good" eye normally the results suit nearly everyone who views....there is nothing like breaking the mould though...a lot of famous photographers developed their own unique style just outside the "box"

my motto

fotografy is phun!!

;)

Edited by mrcrow
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1 hour ago, Jfhuk said:

Still one of my favourites took using  my iPhone 6 

C9B9473A-2635-4AF0-9C46-83BE8A8E0E7A.jpeg

your shot rings a bell  :D

...i am sure i have seen it on another forum talk photography??

 

did you climb over the top to the outside...good view from there

 

 

 

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34941238080_5542a75a49_o.jpgbuncha 5'ssss by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

 

this seems a bit sharper on Flikr...please visit

 

one of my favourites from the moto4E...

phone photography is certainly putting up a lot of competition with the digital camera results in some ways

personally i dont think i could put away my lumix G1 and kit lens even if it is a bit behind the times

i do pp a lot and so appreciate a shot from a regular camera...

i will be upgrading the body but not the lens...going over to olympus...om d e II probably.. i like the M43 light feel and mirrorless action

cheers

geof

Edited by mrcrow
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2 hours ago, mrcrow said:

b

phone photography is certainly putting up a lot of competition with the digital camera results in some ways

personally i dont think i could put away my lumix G1 and kit lens even if it is a bit behind the times

i do pp a lot and so appreciate a shot from a regular camera...

i will be upgrading the body but not the lens...going over to olympus...om d e II probably.. i like the M43 light feel and mirrorless action

cheers

geof

 

 

I ditched my SLR a few years back & have shot on an Olympus TG-4..best camera I have ever bought....small sensor, but f/2, ISO100, & in microscope mode will do 10mm close focus....& will shoot in RAW if you want (I don't)…& those pictures I posted were with that camera...

 

I sell my images from this camera on microstock sites no problem..but I have problems will the reviews on certain site refusing the picture just on camera specs alone.....which p1$$es me right off when I have a way better shot of say a building & the same building on their site is full of badly composed pictures taken on high end cameras...."all the gear & no idea" springs to mind...

 

 

So I recently got an OMD E-M1mk2 with the 12-40pro f/2.8 lens (& the 60mm 2.8 macro) ….& Olympus are doing a good deal until the end of this month...so I melted the plastic...

 

Nice camera...& had to get the "rockynook" manual for it as the OEM book is rubbish...& get new case etc..etc...

 

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1 hour ago, fabdavrav said:

some sites are full of badly composed pictures taken on high end cameras...."all the gear & no idea" springs to mind...

 

I recently got an OMD E-M1mk2 with the 12-40pro f/2.8 lens (& the 60mm 2.8 macro)

 

 

35545102061_8d18f5e77e_o.jpgdragon1 copy by mrcrow_uk, on Flickr

 

thats the reason i wont chase the "right crowd" marque photography...an image needs to speak for itself...if its good an observer might ask...what camera did you take that on?....

answer...i took it with a lens attached to a body...the most important part being the lens

bodies aside my involvement was with glass and not so much of it...prime lenses by lens manufacturers...age not important

a 40 year old nikkor AI 50mm f3.5 i had once on an equally old nikkormat had glass like an alpine pool..and results to suit

aperture was good enough since i used 5.6/f8 optimum with suitable speeds...it had a little light meter dial on the top

if the speed was low...i supported the body on a tripod if high i still tightened up as camera shake can be mirror caused as well...that little body had mirror up so that could be cancelled after composing...or jam your elbows

 

the shot i have shown above was from the olympus C740 on macro...

your mention of the TG4 doesnt quite attract me...mainly because i think its too specialised

 

chacun son goût!....n’est-ce pas?

 

what part of the north do you live in

 

cheers

geof

 

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On ‎24‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 18:07, mrcrow said:

 

your mention of the TG4 doesnt quite attract me...mainly because i think its too specialised

 

what part of the north do you live in

 

cheers

geof

 

 

Its not a "specialist" camera per se...its the best small sensor (1/2.3) camera on the market!!

 

I just stated the extremes it will go to...(also -10C, dust, water, shock proof)….& although it has been superseded by the TG-5 I still prefer the TG-4 for handling etc...

 

https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/olympus-tg-4/olympus-tg-4A.HTM

 

Anyway I like nice detail, & don't mind getting out the tripod..I have a couple of nice panos planned..just need the right weather...& will try the "high res" mode on the E-1......50MP shots!!....

 

I live near Inverness....

 

Ps this shot is NOT cropped so full frame 16MP!...this was a pair of hover fly's mating on the front door frame...so I have the camera lens 1cm from them & the body jammed on the frame..all hand held..& this is a multiple shot focus stacked image in microscope mode on the TG-4!.....I had to rotate the image 90deg..

 

P7310007-reduced.jpg

Edited by fabdavrav
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On 24/08/2018 at 13:54, mrcrow said:

 

your shot rings a bell  :D

...i am sure i have seen it on another forum talk photography??

 

did you climb over the top to the outside...good view from there

 

 

 

 

I didnt post anywhere else, but it’s a popular angle for a shot and the light in the morning is amazing.

 

Didnt get to the roof unfortunately as the queue was long.

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This shot was taken with my venerable old TZ70 at max telephoto (720 mm), f6.4, 1/125 second, ISO 100 and spot metering. On a mini tripod and I used the image app to trigger the  shutter (from myphone) to minimise potential for camera shake.

 

The other was taken using the night mode on my phone (Huawei p20 pro). This takes multiple shots (over a 4 second exposure) and some type of software trickery virtually eliminates camera shake / blur. Seems to work well.

IMG_20180824_222505.jpg

IMG_20180824_222741.jpg

IMG_20180824_223406.jpg

Edited by pinkpanther
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1 hour ago, pinkpanther said:

This shot was taken with my venerable old TZ70 at max telephoto (720 mm), f6.4, 1/125 second, ISO 100 and spot metering. On a mini tripod and I used the image app to trigger the  shutter (from myphone) to minimise potential for camera shake.

 

The other was taken using the night mode on my phone (Huawei p20 pro). This takes multiple shots (over a 4 second exposure) and some type of software trickery virtually eliminates camera shake / blur. Seems to work well.

IMG_20180824_222505.jpg

IMG_20180824_222741.jpg

IMG_20180824_223406.jpg

 

the moon is a great subject and it moves....its exposure is the same as daylight

your first shot is the better...

 

cheers

geof

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