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1.9PD cambelt change


Meadway

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Hi John,

Am in the same boat myself - I need to change the belt on my 3-cyl TDI.

I found this article on the Golf mk iv forum which seems to be quite comprehensive.

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/176617.aspx

Couple of specialist tools required but they aren't too expensive really.

Be aware that the belt tensioner is different on various models and needs different tools and techniques to get it set up.

I'll take the opportunity to change the waterpump too when I'm in there.

Take plenty of photo's as you go and good luck.

Pete

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Just a quick question, When should the timming belt be changed on a Roomster 1.9 105hp tdi? Wifes car has done 42k and was registered March 2007. Is it due a change yet?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

James

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Wifes car has done 42k and was registered March 2007. Is it due a change yet?Thanks in advance.CheersJames

Yup, 'fraid so.

The recommendation now is that the belt be replaced once it reaches four years old.

This is based on current advice from several Skoda dealerships and also numerous posts on this forum.

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Yup, 'fraid so.

The recommendation now is that the belt be replaced once it reaches four years old.

This is based on current advice from several Skoda dealerships and also numerous posts on this forum.

Ok thankyou.

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Local indi garage quoted £325 and Skoda main dealer quoted £285 for the cambelt change which does not sound to bad.

Thanks for the advice.

Cheers

James

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I'll take the opportunity to change the waterpump too when I'm in there.

Hi James,

Did your quote include changing the water pump?

According to many on here, it may be false economy not to.

Rob

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Hi James,

Did your quote include changing the water pump?

According to many on here, it may be false economy not to.

Rob

No it didn't i'm afraid. still not done it yet.

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I'm doing mine this summer and I've been getting the bits together before hand. I've hit a question with the engine bolts and had a recent email exchange with a Skoda garage - Is this correct ? Everything I have read on this forum says replace bolts ?

Dear Aubrey,

Hi,

You do not require the mount bolts for this vehicle it is only the octavia bolts that need replacing.

Thanks

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Aubrey

To: Skoda

Sent Date: 13-May-11 17:54:34 BST

Dear Skoda,

Thanks, My VIN = TMBMG65J48xxxxxxx

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Skoda

To: Aubrey

Sent Date: 13-May-11 09:09:13 BST

Dear Aubrey,

Hi there is normally 4 bolts needed when changing the cam belt, our dvla link is not working at the moment so we require the chassis number so we can check and price the bolts up

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Aubrey

To: Skoda

Sent Date: 12-May-11 17:48:39 BST

Dear Skoda,

I just wondered if I could get the engine bolts required for when I change the cam belt later this year. I have the belt kit and water pump already but I need the 6 (I think it is 6 but if not then whatever I need!) engine bolts that I have to replace due to removing the engine mount to fit the cambelt. My engine 1.9TDI BSW (reg = EK57 xxx)

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Elsawin states that the engine mount bolts should be replaced.

I have read of some folk re-using the originals with some Loctite, not heard of any engines falling out as yet. Then again I suppose anybody that cut that particular corner would hardly own up to it afterwards when their engine is sitting on the pavement !

Will be using new bolts when I do mine.

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I never trusted that either. Anyway went up my local Skoda garage and got the bolts required. They recommended renewing the crank pulley and engine to chassis mount bolts and nut too. All in the 14 bolts and 1 nut cost £17.

I'll probably do a write up on the cambelt change this summer with photos and I'll make sure I include all part numbers.

I now have to decide do I keep the drained G12 coolent to put back or just use replace with normal antifreeze and replace that every 4 years with the cambelt and waterpump anyway. Maybe I'll decide on how clean the G12 can be drained.

Edited by aubrey
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  • 3 weeks later...

Watch the belt timing! I have just had mine changed by a specialist VW mechanic and it's going back because the car no longer runs exactly as it did prior to the change. Worse fuel economy, powerband moved up rev range by 1000 rpm.

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Thanks Etos that helps a lot. It ties up with what I thought I had to do.

Regarding the previous post by Julian Edgar, I wonder if your specialist VW mechanic did 2 turns of the crankshaft by spanner and confirmed the timing tools still locked in, especially the pin on the camshaft. From what I've been finding out the camshaft turns anti-clockwise slightly when the tensioner is set. I have read many times to turn the camshaft fully clockwise on it slots before fitting the belt, I can only assume that makes the best guess for when the tensioner then pulls it anti-clockwise. But everything I have read states to do a 2 crankshaft turn by hand and confirm camshaft locking pin still engages correctly at TDC.

The best info I have found so far on this job is

TDI Cambelt

I've got all the bits now and will be doing this job in the next few months. I'll post a write up with photos afterwards.

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Looking at the Fabia guide by Skudmissle it mentions - Short reach 16mm socket for removal of awkward engine mount bolts

What is a short reach socket ? Is it just a normal size socket set bit ?

If not anybody got a link to one on the web and would a 16mm crank spanner work ?

The space looks pretty tight and I don't want to get going and get stuck as I can't get a turn on those 3 bolts.

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  • 3 months later...

Did my cambelt Saturday. Found 2 parts difficult:

1st Removing the engine mount that actually bolts to the block. I undid the 3 bolts fine but had a great trouble actually removing that lump of metal from the side of the engine. It has the bolt recesses cast as part of the mount making it about 5" wide and there must be max 2" clearance between engine and chassis. I had to resort to lifting the engine up about 6" to extract this part.

Same issue when re-installing it.

2nd Putting on the new belt. Even with the tensioner fully off I found I could only just squeeze the new belt on by removing the new idler and then reinstalling the idler once the new belt was on all the rest. Even without the idler it was still a tight squeeze.

The 2nd was not too much of a problem but I'm interested in the 1st - Was I missing a trick with removing that metal engine mount. The photos on the Fabia write up made the engine side panel look slim but the part number on it is the same as my Roomster one, on side view it is at least double the width due to the bolt recesses.

But I guess at the end of the day I did complete the task, I have loads of photos and I will post a write up soon. You will see what I mean about that engine side mount.

Edited by aubrey
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I have loads of photos and I will post a write up soon.

Looking forward to that Aubrey.

Despite all best intentions I still haven't done our 1.4 TDi belt yet (have been away with work, so the car hasn't been used) Really MUST get it done in the very near future.

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