trolley jack points

[pist0nbr0ke]

I always thought jacking the rear by those points would knock the alignment out badly-all the weight is on that arm?

[vRS_Pagey]

I always thought jacking the rear by those points would knock the alignment out badly-all the weight is on that arm?

Thats makes absolute sense as I had axle stands under that part when I took the wheels off for a detailing session, not sure if thats the reason but my rear alignment was way out resluting in 2 x new tyres...... :(

[Wardy]

So the options for jacking the rear is to locate at the point in front of the rear wheel then?

Just trying to remember where the points located when I last had mine up on the ramps.

[A&Rblackline]

Just out of interest, does anyone know whether the jacking/lifting points on the Mk2 Octavia are the same as the Mk1?

Reason I ask is because I'm having the wheels on my car resprayed (colour change, black to silver), so it'll be up off its wheels for a couple of days - and I didn't want to end up with crushed sills or bent suspension arms etc.

I found this thread on the Mk1 Octy forum, and thought it looked really useful http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/175461-official-vehicle-jacking-points/page__hl__+jacking%20+points#entry2995633

If anyone can advise, that'd be much appreciated.

TIA

[rob_e]

nope, not the same as mk1.

there are some pics in the manual if that helps?

P251: "Position the lifting jack* by selecting the jacking point which is closest to

the wheel to be removed ? fig. 228. The jacking point is located directly

below the engraving in the lower sill. The engraving is only visible after

opening the door."

pdf of the manual: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/253639-skoda-manuals-pdfs/

BTW if you are going to have black neptunes repainted silver, i'd be up for a swap with mine? My car is 5 weeks old and the wheels are unmarked. Whereabouts are you?

cheers

Rob

[banksie]

Have always used a piece of soft pine plank about a foot long 5 inches wide and about 1 inch deep with my trolley jack. Allows the weld to sink into the wood and spread the load along the sill. usually put the weld into the middle of the wood and put it so the jack is about a foot behind or in front of the wheel your jacking. Have used this for last 20 years on Audi/Merc/Saab and Skoda, never a problem. Currently changing wheels twice a year (winter wheels) on my vRS and wifes Scout with no problem.

[Huskoda]

I bought some inch thick rubber blocks off ebay that I use between the trolley jack and the sills. Never had any problems, except the one sill that was already mangled when I bought the car. I have heard so many things about where to put and not put the jack under the body that I just don't know for sure where else to use it.

[dieselV6]

Here are some trolley cushions and lift pads I made/fitted earlier , scroll towards end of post.

Edit: I think part numbers for Octy 2 are same, but you might want to double-check with ETKA / A3/TT.

Also note lift pad support points are good for axle stands, but for lifting car before you put axle stands in, it is safest to use lift jack with cut hockey puck pad placed under the seam.

Edited 5 February, 2013 by dieselV6

[Jim1556]

I found this thread a while ago: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/221240-fitting-s3-jack-pads-to-octavia/

I've just ordered the bits and will pick them up tomorrow, to be fitted at work tomorrow night.

Hopefully much safer than cutting a hockey puck as they're made for it and will not move.

[rob_e]

Jim - I looked at that thread about the s3 pads and did some reading on some other forums and decided it was not a good idea. It looks like those pads are designed to suspend the car on a ramp ie with the vehicle weight evenly distributed across all 4 at once, not for point loading with a trolley jack. If do some searching you can find images of vehicles with the floorpan deformed.

I bought one of these (not tried it yet, only arrived a week ago) which is the same idea as the hockey puck but probably a bit more resilient material plus its designed to fit OVER the jack cup rather than sit in it, so less likely to slip off.

http://protechproducts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=35_37

[dieselV6]

Jim - I looked at that thread about the s3 pads and did some reading on some other forums and decided it was not a good idea. It looks like those pads are designed to suspend the car on a ramp ie with the vehicle weight evenly distributed across all 4 at once, not for point loading with a trolley jack. If do some searching you can find images of vehicles with the floorpan deformed.

Yes, but they are OK for axle stands as long as you lift the car by the seam. The common problem with lifting the car by the seam is that after you lift it, there's little or no space to put axle stands in the reinforced area, Lift pads remove this problem, you put axle stands underneath the pads.

Actually, based on my Mk1 Octy and Roomster experience, it's only lifting on front lift pads that's a big no-no. the rear pads are strong enough. Also, S3 pads are quite expensive, the TT pads are far less expensive and do the job just fine.

Edited 5 February, 2013 by dieselV6

[Octy0GG]

Very disappointed by VAG’s idea of jacking points.

Nothing appears to have been designed as a jacking point just some suggestions for least horrific places to lift.

Describing jacking directly on the sill as a jacking point is nasty in the extreme.

Of course VAG get away with this negligence because they know that new car buyers are unlikely to be concerned about jacking points.

[dieselV6]

The sill has reinforcement and is meant to be lifted at indicated points, please read earlier posts on this thread. The only problem is to match the sill shape to jack lift area shape, and the various hockey puck and other pads described help with that. Lift pads just add additional points where jack stands are working well.

Re design of jacking points, I agree it could be better, but most cars are on 4-way lift at factory, and anything else costs extra weight. The last good jacking point I saw on VW is on my Mk1 Superb (behind the sill), it is A B5 Passat design chassis that was sent off to production for the first time in 1997, or 16 years ago.

[A&Rblackline]

hi Rob, I've just PM'd you re:wheels. Cheers.

[Jim1556]

I see your point Rob but as it's only ever going to be for lifting one wheel at a time (unlike my E36 which has proper jacking points where I can lift one side at a time on track day wheel swaps), there's only ever going to be 400kgs max on that point which isn't far off the load when it's lifted on a 4 point ramp.

Suffice to say, I'll be careful...

Point being, VAG have done a lazy, ****e design for something that should be a basic thing (just like my vRS not having the screenwash level alert! ).

[Wardy]

I bought one of these (not tried it yet, only arrived a week ago) which is the same idea as the hockey puck but probably a bit more resilient material plus its designed to fit OVER the jack cup rather than sit in it, so less likely to slip off.

http://protechproduc...gory&path=35_37

Those look good Rob. Did you have to purchase from the States?

[dieselV6]

I see your point Rob but as it's only ever going to be for lifting one wheel at a time (unlike my E36 which has proper jacking points where I can lift one side at a time on track day wheel swaps), there's only ever going to be 400kgs max on that point

On the front, with a TDI, even lifting one side by placing lift jack where the lift pad is is risky. At least Octy 1 floor would buckle after a while, guess how I know Vertical load may not be much, but side loads add on and can result in unsightly deformation, albeit local (suspension geometry not affected).

For a long time now I have been lifting all my Skodas on a hockey puck pad placed at designated jacking point, and then putting axle stands under the lift pads. The commercial pad posted looks like it could do the job very well, but I spent ages trying to get one like that ordered into the UK. After buying the Roomster I just bought 10 hockey pucks for a tenner or so and made all pads and supports I could think of. Cutting the hockey pucks took far less time than trying to buy the right jack pad in the end.

[rob_e]

Those look good Rob. Did you have to purchase from the States?

Yes. Direct from protech USA - I couldn't find any UK suppliers. Cost $23.95 and $15 to ship to the uk. In real money that was about £20 quid. One email direct to them to ask how I pay (paypal) and it turned up a week later, zero hassle.

Yes I know a hockey puck would have been cheaper but the material they use for the protech jobbie is pretty robust - I'd be worried with a customised puck that it may be weakened with a slot sawn across it.

Slight caveat - I've not used it yet ;-)

[io1901]

I don't bother with the puck and just do the lift on the floorpan behind the seam. This is where the OEM jack lifts - it doesn't lift on the seam but on the floorpan just behind it -it uses the seam so it doesn't slip.

[blackspaven]

Yes I know a hockey puck would have been cheaper but the material they use for the protech jobbie is pretty robust - I'd be worried with a customised puck that it may be weakened with a slot sawn across it.

Could always put a jubilee clip around the base of the puck to keep it together and stop it splitting in two?

[Wardy]

If you look at the construction of a hockey puck, and test deformation after you've cut a recess out of the middle, you'll realise it's not a problem and won't split in two

They're extremely solid - they need to be, if you've ever played ice hockey

[M12MKD]

Just out of interest job which one did you go for as there is two sizes.

[rob_e]

Just out of interest job which one did you go for as there is two sizes.

I bought "Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007" but as above, not tried it out yet. I'll do some testing tonight..

[M12MKD]

I bought "Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1007" but as above, not tried it out yet. I'll do some testing tonight..

Cheers will await the results :-)

[Wardy]

Do we get a live broadcast of Rob trying this out?

Drum roll please....