Hi I could do with some help please. I had a problem with a leaking brake cylinder on the rear passenger side which we found after we has the 3 beeps saying we were out of brake fluid. My dad tinkers with cars so he changed it and bled the system the old fashioned way with me pressing the pedal and him undoing the bleed screws on each wheel. Now the ABS is kicking in when you set off and the fault light comes on. After reading on here I assume I have air in the ABS somewhere but the wheel was really gunked up after the leak could that be the problem.

1) Can someone confirm the correct order of bleeding (I told my dad furthest away from the master cylinder first)

2) Should we buy a eezibleed

3) Do I need to see someone with VAG to turn the ABS on while bleeding

Any further help would be appreciated.

Bleeding the brakes this way can invert the seals on the master cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes this way can invert the seals on the master cylinder.

If that has happened would it cause the ABS fault? Or what would be the signs?

I had a similar problem, leaking rear brake cylinders which also saturated the rear shoes.

Replaced the cylinders and brake shoes, afterwards the abs light would come on after 30 sec of running - I found on this forum that it is a common fault in that the rear abs sensor and stator ring becomes goo'd up with brake shoe dust sticking to the leaked brake fluid.

Assuming you have rear drums, remove rear brake drum and using meths and a cotton bud carefully clean the stator ring and the sensor face.

DB.

I found on this forum that it is a common fault in that the rear abs sensor and stator ring becomes goo'd up with brake shoe dust sticking to the leaked brake fluid.

Assuming you have rear drums, remove rear brake drum and using meths and a cotton bud carefully clean the stator ring and the sensor face.

Never had it happen to me but I have always cleaned the reluctor ring on cars whilst I'm down there....just done the brakes on my mates MKV Golf.....the rears are a worse design than my Fabia and were really gunged up!!!

P.S. an easy bleed system is well worth the money! I've had one for the past 14years and it's had alot of use!!!!

If there is air in the ASB it will need to be bled out with VCDS but this normally wouldnt bring a light on. I would assume the abs ring has become soiled or a sensor issue.

My original post - My link - yes I know I called it a stator ring however it's called a reluctor ring.

DB.

My dad just cleaned it up with blaze degreaser and it didn't fix it. Is it the wrong kind of stuff to use or does it point to a broken sensor?

Speedo is sticking too. Can anyone help car is starting to feel dangerous to drive.

I tried to help you with info off Briskoda, where it states, carefully use Meths & a Cotton bud.

DB.

Speedo can be run off a wheel speed sensor so it's going to need a diag check to see which sensor isn't reading right.

As you can tell I can't sleep because of this! Will try with the meths tomorrow. Do we need to strip down the brakes to get to it properly?

Remove the brake drum only, you can then see the ring and sensor, turn the hub by hand to clean the complete ring, if there is any doubt as to which sensor is causing the trouble, then clean up both rear rings and sensors.

DB.

Cleaned it again today abs light is staying on now need someone to read codes asked local people off the vag sticky thread but they haven't replied. Anyone near Bolton want to help me out.

Hi I could do with some help please. I had a problem with a leaking brake cylinder on the rear passenger side which we found after we has the 3 beeps saying we were out of brake fluid. My dad tinkers with cars so he changed it and bled the system the old fashioned way with me pressing the pedal and him undoing the bleed screws on each wheel. Now the ABS is kicking in when you set off and the fault light comes on. After reading on here I assume I have air in the ABS somewhere but the wheel was really gunked up after the leak could that be the problem.

1) Can someone confirm the correct order of bleeding (I told my dad furthest away from the master cylinder first)

2) Should we buy a eezibleed

3) Do I need to see someone with VAG to turn the ABS on while bleeding

Any further help would be appreciated.

1) You are correct.

2) OF COURSE YOU SHOULD BUY ONE, they're cheap enough and work superbly!

3) No.

I suspect you are also right about air trapped in the ABS unit, if you buy an eezibleed you'll be able to dump ALL the old fluid and completely refill the system with fresh fluid eezily! (see what I did there)

Bleeding the brakes this way can invert the seals on the master cylinder.

BTW, this is nonsense, the only way to 'invert' seals is to quickly force pistons back into calipers without undoing the bleed valve and even then it's difficult.

Hi I stupidly bought a ebay code reader and it doesn't seem to cover abs the only code that came up is temperature sensor one. My ABS light is still on and I have the MOT soon. Any ideas if I can use the new cable I have got with the scanner to connect my laptop to the car and sort it out?

An update. I eventually got my codes read and it turned out to be a totally different wheel the front right. Changed the sensor yesterday (the old one had a fair bit of rusty gunk on it) but Abs light hasn't gone out. Do I need the fault reset with the code reader? How can I tell if its actually repaired?

A bit of history the same wheel had a new bearing fitted earlier this year by my dad. Could we have the wrong bearing in (bought from eurocarparts) seems unlikely as the fault only appeared months later. The same wheel makes a rubbing (shush) noise quite often when braking. Could the bearing not be fitted properly? We had it pressed in at a garage after removing the whole thing. (Why do I let my dad touch my cars!!!)

Sounds like the bearing isn't all the way in, this gives a too large air gap so the sensor can't read it and puts the disc out of alignment so will rub on pads.

So I need a new bearing then or can I just get it repressed. What I don't understand is the 4 months it was working fine till I got the abs fault.

Unless it wasn't pressed in correctly or the retaining ring was damaged and it's worked it's way out.

Hi, Going back to your first posting, the correct way to bleed the the brakes is with a pressure bleeder,as close to 2 bar pressure as you can get, this info is from the ross tech site, only run abs pump with vcds as a last resort. Bleeding procedure furthest away first.

Vcds lite is a free download and will check and clear all your fault codes, you will need a lead, I recomend Gendan as they are ross tech agents, lead is about £20 including postage and usualy arrives day after ordering.

Tony

Ah now you've said retaining ring I think my dad removed it. Can they really work their way loose after the pressure it took to press it on?

The hand held scanner i have is pretty good just doesn't cover abs

Just remembered the bearings come attached to the hub so its the whole hub assembly we are talking about isn't it. A friend says give it a whack and see if you can straighten it up. Do you think this will work. Tempted to just take it in to a garage and tell them the story let them figure it out!