Yeti rear Rattle/ clank. Does yours?

[Guest]

Hello,

For as long as I can remember my yeti would rattle when going over a bump in the road - a clank like something is loose. Its been back to the garage twice and they still have not fixed it. Apart from giving it back to them and telling them not to return it until its fixed I wanted to investigate myself.

So far I know its not the seats, boot door, anything loose in the boot etc.

My feeling its as if a door isn't shut properly so tonight I have packed the latch mechanism to remove any slack etc. and will test drive it later.

I have tried to loosen the door latch striker plate to see if there is any adjustment, but it doesn't move so no joy there.

What I did also note is that if all the doors are shut, and you open a rear door and hold the handle open. Then close the door so it shuts but doesn't latch you can hear a flap in the rear wheel arch flap open to release the air pressure. Maybe its that which is rattling?

What I wonder is if anyone can send me a PDF of the workshop manual that shows how to remove the side boot trims etc as I am sure the issues is located either in the boot or the side trims by the seats etc. Or let me know if I can see them online?

Cheers

Simon

[speedsport]

Have you checked the rear number plate? I tracked my Yeti's road bump rattle to that. It was stuck with double sided foam pads to a typical German style carrier frame (with the selling dealer's name below the plate), and the carrier frame in turn was screwed to the tailgate with two self tapping screws into the standard nylon bushes. However, the ends of the assembly rattled against the paintwork occasionally so I stuck two foam pads onto the back of the carrier, & rattle gone!

Anther thing to check is the outer rear seat belt buckles. Unless they are tucked into the slots on the rear wheel arches, they can rattle too. Try fastening them across the seat & see if your rattle goes.

Also, check the buckle for the centre rear seatbelt is not rattling against it's magnet in the headlining. Again, fasten it to the seat & see if your rattles goes.

(PS try just one thing at a time, otherwise you'll never know which one is the culprit!)

Oh, and check the shopping hooks in the boot aren't rattling on the rails. That's another known cause!

Edited 18 November, 2011 by speedsport

[Yeti_Man]

Loose exhaust heat shield hitting the exhaust system somewhere?

[Guest]

Hello,

I have eliminated the seat belts and luggage hooks, rear storage buckets, luggage nets, boot mat, back shelf, rear seats. Will look at the numberplate but mine doesn't have the carrier and from memory is stuck on as well as screwed.

Will check the exhaust too - not thought of that.

Funny, I bought the yeti so I wouldn't have to spend time under a car fixing it and now it looks like I will have to get my overalls out of retirement!

[Guest]

Oh, something else I could try - I wonder if its brake line clanking on the floor pan? Mine has the rough-road pack so is covered with the shields? Has anyone removed them? Easy? Tricky?

[speedsport]

Have you had a tow bar fitted? If so, check that they've not left anything touching anything else - like the exhaust shield as focuszetec suggests. The trailer socket can hit the rear skirt in standard form. I modified mine to make it swing up higher to miss the blanking plate.

[The Plumber]

Both my Yeti's have suffered rattles; first one had the full philharmonic in the cabin, while the current one has a small octet playing away quietly for most of the time to the rhythm of the road imperfections from both nearside doors and occasionally that symbol chap joins in from the boot

Sometimes you can hear the air pressure release vents behind the bumper clank when you close the rear door; again common to both Yeti's.

Oh don't think the brake lines/RRP will have any bearing on the problem.

Will sort out any images you need just PM requirements :yes:

Regards,

TP

[Guest]

No tow bar...

The noise is both sides, left/ port being the worst.

[The Plumber]

1 - Bracket for CD changer Removing: – Remove CD changer. – Remove housing for CD changer -19-. – Remove side trim panel in luggage compartment -9-. – Remove the screws -2- and take out the holder. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

2 - 4 Nm

3 - Riveted nut

4 - Adjusting nut

5 - Riveted nut

6 - Clamp

7 - 2.5 Nm

8 - Foldable hook Removing: – Remove side trim panel in luggage compartment -9-. – Remove screw -16-. – Remove foldable hook. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

9 - Side trim panel in luggage compartment Removing: – Remove the tailgate/luggage compartment cover → Chapter. – Remove top pillar C → Chapter. – Remove top pillar D → Chapter. – Remove screws -7-. – Remove the bottom deflection fitting → Chapter. – Remove hook keeper -13-, if present. – Remove hook -11-, if present. – Remove foldable hook -8-, if present. – Removing body-bound rivet -10-. – Unclip the trim panel and pull the belt through. – Remove side trim panel in luggage compartment. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

10 - Body-bound rivet

11 - Hook Removing: – Remove screws -12-. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

12 - 2 Nm

13 - Hook keeper Removing: – Unclip the cover -14- e.g. with a plastic wedge. – Remove screws -15-. – Remove bracket. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

14 - Cover

15 - 5 Nm

16 - 7 Nm

17 - Guide sections q For storage compartment Removing: – Remove the cover for the storage compartment -18-. – Unclip the guide sections. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

18 - Cover for the storage compartment q Fitted on the guide sections -17-.

19 - Housing for CD changer

Regards,

TP

[The Plumber]

Removing: – Raise the luggage compartment-floor covering. – Remove screws -3- (2 Nm). – Remove tailgate/luggage compartment cover -1- upwards.

Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order; pay attention to the following points: – Recondition the clips -2- in the tailgate/luggage compartment cover -1- or replace with new ones.

TP

[The Plumber]

Removing: – Release cap -3-. – Remove screw -2- (2,5 Nm). – Loosen the top trim panel of pillar C -1- on the sides from the door seal and remove from pillar C.

Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order; pay attention to the following points: – Recondition the clips -4- in the trim panel of pillar C -1-, if necessary replace with new ones.

TP

[The Plumber]

Removing: – Unclip top trim panel of pillar D -1- from pillar D. Installing: –

Installation is carried out in the reverse order; pay attention to the following points: – Recondition the clips -2- in the top trim panel of pillar D -1-, if necessary replace with new ones.

TP

[The Plumber]

1 - Inertia reel Removing: – Removing side trim panel in luggage compartment → Chapter. – Remove the top deflection fitting -3-. – Remove the bottom deflection fitting -12-. – Remove screw -2-. – Remove the inertia reel. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

2 - 35 Nm

3 - Top deflection fitting Removing: – Removing side trim panel in luggage compartment → Chapter. – Remove screw -4-. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

4 - 35 Nm

5 - Cover for the middle safety belt Removing: – Unclip cover -6-. – Remove screws -7-. – Remove the cover for the middle safety belt. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

6 - Caps 7 - 4 Nm

8 - Inertia reel for the middle safety belt Removing: – Remove the moulded headliner → Chapter. – Remove screw -9-. – Remove the middle inertia reel. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

9 - 35 Nm

10 - Belt buckle Removing: – Fold open rear seat → Chapter. – Remove screw -11-. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order. 11 - 35 Nm

12 - Deflection fitting below Removing: – Fold open rear seat → Chapter. – Partially raise the floor covering under the rear seats. – Remove screw -13-. – Remove the bottom deflection fitting. Installing: – Installation is carried out in the reverse order.

13 - 35 Nm

TP

[Yeti_Man]

Helpful posts (as always!) TP :yes:

[Auchreddie]

Hello,

For as long as I can remember my yeti would rattle when going over a bump in the road - a clank like something is loose. Its been back to the garage twice and they still have not fixed it. Apart from giving it back to them and telling them not to return it until its fixed I wanted to investigate myself.

So far I know its not the seats, boot door, anything loose in the boot etc.

My feeling its as if a door isn't shut properly so tonight I have packed the latch mechanism to remove any slack etc. and will test drive it later.

I have tried to loosen the door latch striker plate to see if there is any adjustment, but it doesn't move so no joy there.

What I did also note is that if all the doors are shut, and you open a rear door and hold the handle open. Then close the door so it shuts but doesn't latch you can hear a flap in the rear wheel arch flap open to release the air pressure. Maybe its that which is rattling?

What I wonder is if anyone can send me a PDF of the workshop manual that shows how to remove the side boot trims etc as I am sure the issues is located either in the boot or the side trims by the seats etc. Or let me know if I can see them online?

Cheers

Simon

[Auchreddie]

Hello,

For as long as I can remember my yeti would rattle when going over a bump in the road - a clank like something is loose. Its been back to the garage twice and they still have not fixed it. Apart from giving it back to them and telling them not to return it until its fixed I wanted to investigate myself.

So far I know its not the seats, boot door, anything loose in the boot etc.

My feeling its as if a door isn't shut properly so tonight I have packed the latch mechanism to remove any slack etc. and will test drive it later.

I have tried to loosen the door latch striker plate to see if there is any adjustment, but it doesn't move so no joy there.

What I did also note is that if all the doors are shut, and you open a rear door and hold the handle open. Then close the door so it shuts but doesn't latch you can hear a flap in the rear wheel arch flap open to release the air pressure. Maybe its that which is rattling?

What I wonder is if anyone can send me a PDF of the workshop manual that shows how to remove the side boot trims etc as I am sure the issues is located either in the boot or the side trims by the seats etc. Or let me know if I can see them online?

Cheers

Simon

[Auchreddie]

Hello,

For as long as I can remember my yeti would rattle when going over a bump in the road - a clank like something is loose. Its been back to the garage twice and they still have not fixed it. Apart from giving it back to them and telling them not to return it until its fixed I wanted to investigate myself.

So far I know its not the seats, boot door, anything loose in the boot etc.

My feeling its as if a door isn't shut properly so tonight I have packed the latch mechanism to remove any slack etc. and will test drive it later.

I have tried to loosen the door latch striker plate to see if there is any adjustment, but it doesn't move so no joy there.

What I did also note is that if all the doors are shut, and you open a rear door and hold the handle open. Then close the door so it shuts but doesn't latch you can hear a flap in the rear wheel arch flap open to release the air pressure. Maybe its that which is rattling?

What I wonder is if anyone can send me a PDF of the workshop manual that shows how to remove the side boot trims etc as I am sure the issues is located either in the boot or the side trims by the seats etc. Or let me know if I can see them online?

Cheers

Simon

Mine had a persistent rattle which sounded similar to yours - was traced to the rear door latches which were replaced with modified ones - cured it.

[kenfowler3966]

Mine has a creak or clank from the rear suspension under hardish acceleration, usually when a steering input is aslo in place. eg turning out of a junction into a main road, with hard acceleration to fit into a gap in the traffic. When the car was newer, it used to click like a ratchet, but whatever is doing it seems to have worn enough that it now just creaks, maybe eventually it will stop on its own.

I think it is something in the rear suspension which is sticking slightly then releasing, then doing it again, probably a bush on the anti roll bar, as it only seems to happen when the rear wheel are dealing with an acceleration and turn at the same time.

The car also used to have a mettallic clunk as the load on the rear suspention reduced, eg coming off a speed bump. This is less now after some work by the dealer, who clearly removed the interior side panels to get to the shock top mountings, which I suspect had a small amount of play, but has not completely gone. I also had noise from the rear hatch as the vehicle twisted, again slightly better after adjustment, but still not completely gone. The dealer has never heard the creak / clank though. I even went out with their mechanic and the noise did not happen wjhilst he was driving, although I frequently hear it. Rather annoying.

I did read a post here some time ago which suggested some earlier cars had been assembled with some washerrs missing in the rear suspention, fitteing then supposedly cured this issue, buit apparently my car is correct!

If it was for these noises the car would be near perfect, and is so on smooth roads and longer trips, just spoils the car when they are happening.

[Guest]

I've already had the rear port side shock absorber replaced as they thought initially it was suspension based. Also had the door seals replaced as those creak when the body twists (mostly when off road) but this is ok to me, the clank is very clear and distinct. I've suspected the door locks since day one - but the garage knows best eh? Hopefully my test drive with the modified ones will confirm if its them or not.

Failing that it will be resorting to The Plumbers excellent diagrams and removing trim to check its not a cable loom or component loose in the back somewhere.

I'm determined to solve it. The car is only 18 months old and perfect apart from this clank.

Simon

[Guest]

Good news folks, a 6" length of PVC tape wound around the latch striker plate and the clank is gone, thus proving it was the locks after all.

My drive down the country lanes from Burton today was nice and quiet as it should be. Even speed bumps couldn't make it clank.

I'll be speaking to Skoda on Monday to get the latches replaced.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Simon

[kenfowler3966]

Good news folks, a 6" length of PVC tape wound around the latch striker plate and the clank is gone, thus proving it was the locks after all.

My drive down the country lanes from Burton today was nice and quiet as it should be. Even speed bumps couldn't make it clank.

I'll be speaking to Skoda on Monday to get the latches replaced.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Simon

I wonder if tis is part of my issue? What do you mean by the door striker plate, the pin that gets latched into the mechanism?

[Guest]

The bracket that is attached to the body. Looks like a staple from a hasp and staple lock. I believe the diameter of the wire is too small or the closed diameter of the latch is too great and hence there is some play between the two when the door is closed.

[SimonVespa]

Well blow me!! After suffering an annoying rattle for a while now. Tonight I emptied the boot-still rattled. Treated the seals-still rattled. Added extra sticky pads to the number plate-still rattled.

Then I read this thread and 6 inch of tape later I'm a happy man!! Need to speak to the dealer now to find a more permanent solution!

Is there any adjustment on the rear latch? I have noticed that the door doesn't sound like the other doors when it closes.

Cheers-Briskoda saves the day again!!

Simon

[RogN]

Thanks, I'll have a look at mine now had thought it was near side rear suspension clunking over bumps, looks like it could be the lock.

[Sanqhar]

There are rubber bungs on the doors that screw in and out (using your fingers), they take up any play with the door moving against the latch. Note the position and try adjusting one door at a time.

tom