Central Locking Problem Help Needed

[darrylg]

Glad it's proven useful to others.

As you've read, I clearly didn't do all the door inner removal in the same weekend, as I had previously given it the once over and missed the real fault.

If you could of seen, I was driving to work for a week with the convinience unit taped to the inside of the door, no inner, speakers or arm rest, just so I could wind my window down to pay the nice people at the Asda payment booth for the petrol without looking like a "drive off" situtaion.

I would have to pull the door shut, from the outside, just hard enough to close. It's going to be luxury now with a handle to grab!

Just take your time if you don't have a whole weekend to waste.

There's something else I should mention, I have no aptitude for mechanics, no soldering degree and no detailed knowledge of electronics (the Haynes manual wiring diagram may be written in Chinese for all I know).

I just know how to use a multi-meter to measure voltage and have a soldering iron that I used once to construct a Maplins water level detector kit. The rest is just a desire to fix this problem and knowing that some of the rubbish I've "collected" in the garage could one day be used to fix stuff.

Now if I could only think of something to fix that would need an old wooden loo role holder...

[fischer]

Hey guys.

I just signed up to this forum because it seems like the best place o nthe web for a skoda owner.

@darrylg - Wanna thank you for the great guide and I think it's awesome that you took the time to make it.

My central-locking stopped working as well recently.

Here's my symptoms:

Before the central locking stopped working, whenever I pressed the "lock all door"-button on the inside of the drivers door. all doors would lock but the drivers doors lock would pop back up again.

I accepted this problem and lived with it.

But now the central locking in the front drivers door stopped working completely.

When I press lock on my key all doors will lock except the drivers door, the alarm is activated as well. if I use my key and turn the lock then the drivers door will lock.

When I press the "lock all doors"-button on the inside of the door then all doors will lock, except the drivers door.

The driver-side heated mirror no longer responds when using the knob in L+R mode.

When I lock the drivers door using the key then only the drivers door will lock, the rest of the car is still unlocked and the alarm is not activated.

I removed the door card and it looks brand new inside, no corrosion on either the male or female connector, no broken wires. checked where the wires trave lfrom the a-pillar to the door, no broken wires.

Anyone have a clue what's going on? it has the exact same symptoms as described by darrylg but no corrosion or damage.

cheers

//Fischer

[rwbaldwin]

First check the brown wire from the lock unit. Does the LED flash when the doors are locked? This is the most likely cause as turning the key in the lock should lock/unlock the other doors.

The CCU and CAN-Bus wiring to the driver's door seems OK as the armrest switches seem to work.

Another common cause is a fault in the control unit that is an integral part of the window motor.

[fischer]

First check the brown wire from the lock unit. Does the LED flash when the doors are locked? This is the most likely cause as turning the key in the lock should lock/unlock the other doors.

The CCU and CAN-Bus wiring to the driver's door seems OK as the armrest switches seem to work.

Another common cause is a fault in the control unit that is an integral part of the window motor.

Thank you for your quick reply!

I'm sorry for sounding like a bit of a newbie.. beucause I am.

What unit is the lock-unit?

if there was a problem with the brown cable coming from the lock-unit, would this also affect the driverside rearview-mirror?

When I lock the car using my remote key then the LED is flashing, showing that the alarm is activated.

But the driversdoor still remains unlocked..

The "control unit" is the part that you can "clip" off right? that holds the male-connector?

//Fischer

Edited 28 June, 2012 by fischer

[rwbaldwin]

The lock unit is the unit that the key goes into and has the lock motor in it.

If you look at the large connector that plugs into the control unit (yes - it's the box held on by clips), you will see wires going to the armrest panel, wires going to the mirror, wires going through the door pillar and a group of 8-10 wires going to the lock unit.

The brown wire is the earth for the lock and IIRC, shares an earth point with the mirror.

Have you checked that you have power on both the Red/Brown and Red/Yellow that pass throught the door pillar?

If it's not the earth/power then it will be the control unit.

[fischer]

I will check for any damage to the brown earth-cable in a coming day when it stops raining.

On my initial inspection I couldn't see any damage on any cable in the door as far as I could see. Still I might have missed it and will check one more time.

I checked the power between 2 slots on opposite corners on the female connector and they had current( might not be proper way to say it, I'm swedish ) would these be the slots that the red/yellow and red/brown cables lead to?

Before the central locking on the drivers door stopped working I would have this funny thing happen when I pressed the "lock all doors"-button on the inside of the drivers door. All doors would lock but then the drivers door lockpin would pop back up again. Would this indicate a control unit that was on it's way out?

thank you for your help rwbaldwin.

[rwbaldwin]

The brown wire from the lock unit supplies a set of microswitches in the lock that tell the control unit the position of the motor and if the door is open. If it gets the wrong signals, the door will immediately unlock again.

[JIMMK1VRS]

I am having similair problems.

My rear doors do not behave as they should. Sometimes they don't unlock when I hit the key fob. Question is what do I take appart first. The rear doors or the drivers side door?

Thanks

[martynb]

Your a star performer Darryl. A sensible analysis of the door lock problem that has helped me. Many thanks

I have had a problem with my drivers door locking for a few months and tracked it down to the water in the connector block inside the door and when cleaned and dried whilst there was an improvement on window operation the drivers lock was still not working.

I have since come across your good article and decided to take another look and found the corroded pin in exactly the same place as yours in the male block.

To fix the pin I removed the unit holding the pc board. On checking the connector block the yellow red cable was corroded along with the female connector in the block. To fix the pin problem I found it easier to drill a small hole down the side of the corroded pin end expose the base of the pin by removing some of the sealing compound with a dremmel. I then cleaned the base of the pin and tinned it with solder, Rather than replacing the pin I decided to solder a length of automotive cable to the pin base so that I could pass the free end of the cable through the female connector before reassembling the unit and making the connection of the red/yellow cable to my new piece of cable outside the unit with a connector block. I then wrapped the whole unit in amalgamating tape. The door lock now works as normal and I just hope that the sealing tape does its job.

[classic]

+1 to this repair. Mine had the exact same corroded pin. Took me about 1.5hrs start to finish - cost £0.

Goodness knows what the cost would be at a garage: a new door wiring loom, new electric window motor/control unit and labour, it would probably be more than the cars worth !!

Thanks to darrylg and all other contributors

[cox377]

Thanks for this guide, just picked up an octavia with the same fault. Hope it goes well.

 

Was the door card a pain to get out?

 

J

[Satys]

Thank you for this guide. Worked fine, interior light now works, led flashes. Mirror control and heating works and the key fob. but for some reason when the car us running I still get the door open sign. When the car is off and u open each door the sign comes on when open and off when closed. Any ideas?

Edited 22 October, 2013 by Satys

[DaveMcLeod]

Just read this post and have the same problem I'll get stuck into that plug tomorrow I think

[DaveMcLeod]

Can anyone direct me to an informative guide on these and if any other vag vehicle shares the same? I got one from a passate estate to no luck. Fitted though

[trevkx125]

The central Locking on my drivers side door does not work. If I press the remote all the other doors lock accept the drivers, the led by the door button does not light up or flash, the drivers side door mirror does not move if you set it to that side it operates the other side, and the roof light does not come on when you open the door. Now I imagine it must all be related? Is it likely to be the mechanism or micro switch or something else?

 

Hi all, sorry to drag up an old thread, I have spent hours searching the problem!

 

I have exactly the same problem as above, does anyone know what voltage should be at the connector going to the unit in the door, and which ones should have power? The connection's on mine were going a little blue/green and were full of water, I have cleaned them up and WD40'd them but the door still wont lock/unlock on the remote + the mirror control on left & right moves the left! 

The wiring looks ok, but then again its hard to tell to be honest, its not the driest in the door so I have covered it in WD40.

Using the key, it opens and locks all the doors as normal.

Now I know the microswith is the reason the interior light etc is not working, but this was happening before, the remote unlocking is a new fault and I would like to sort it out if I can.....

 

Thanks

 

 

Trev

Edited 8 February, 2014 by trevkx125

[trevkx125]

I found the problem,

 

It was the small red/yellow wire where it joins the connector exactly the same as 'darrlg' along with some brittle/broken wiring where the loom comes through the doors. Just need to do the microswitch to get the interior light etc to come on with the drivers door now.

[darrylg]

Glad some of you found the guide useful.

I can confirm that my repair work is sill holding up strong.

The only issue I get is after a large amount of rain, a small puddle builds at the bottom of the drivers door where the door meets the seal.

The water definitely comes through the inside of the door and drains out the bottom of the door inner.

I can only guess that this is a result of the "wrapping" of the connector block in plastic, or something in the way the window and seal are positioned.

I'm not doing anything about the puddle as it just sits in the seal until I open the door.

[twoskods]

Like many others I had the same problem, I thought of doing the same as darrlg described, but took another path. The dissolved pin in the window control unit (WCM) was repaired by making a new pin and soldering it onto the stub remaining. I cut down and fashioned this new pin from a spade fuse, The corresponding female connector in the 29 pin plug was also rusted out and I bought a replecement wire from VAG (£3.90 - robbing Ba$@*^ds) unlatched the connectors in the plug ( push the little purple tab at the bottom of the plug and slide the plastic lock mechanism out a little) the disintegrated connector can the be pushed out using a paperclip or very thin screwdriver. Replace the connector with the new one and button up the purple latching slide, solder and heat shrink the new wire to the red/yellow wire . Before replacing the plug into the WCM I ran a bead of Hermitite around the WCM so that the plug got sealed when put back. The cause was water getting in past the orange seal at the bottom of the 29 pin plug -(it took twelve years to rust through though!!)

Everything now working fine.

 

Garge answer to problem was a new window motor £233 + door loom @ £133 plus labour if you had them do it!

[devhdc]

Sorry to necro.. Similar problems as many have described...:
Locks all work except for drivers door, where i have to use the key manually to get it to lock/unlock .. But interior lights work when the door opens, the heater on the drivers side mirror does not work, nor will the controller move the mirror and the alarm activates (flashing the red LED) when i either manually lock the drivers door (which locks all other doors too as it should) or when i use the FOB, using the lock all button on the panel when inside the car locks all doors but the drivers side one..

 

So what am i likely looking for here? Damage from corrosion?

[Metalligator]

Just brought my car and got similar issues

• Drivers mirror doesn't adjust, L or R just moves passenger side mirror
• Remote central locking does boot only
• Key in drivers door does drivers door and boot, also windows up/down
• All other doors are manual

Guessing it is all related, took a look in the door and two of the pins are completely missing (well they are in the female side) of the control module, nothing to join/solder to.

What are my options?

Where do I get a new control unit? What do I search for?

 

[KenONeill]

@Metalligator - Have to guess a bit because of not having access to your car, but this sounds like it's mostly related to the connectors, wiring and convenience unit in the driver's door. Start by inspecting all the connectors for corrosion.

[Metalligator]

35 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@Metalligator - Have to guess a bit because of not having access to your car, but this sounds like it's mostly related to the connectors, wiring and convenience unit in the driver's door. Start by inspecting all the connectors for corrosion.

I have taken it apart, it has corroded to the point two of the pins are completely missing.

[KenONeill]

@Metalligator Yes, you need a new unit, or a good second-hand one. You'll get one with the functions you need in any Ambiante or vRS, and possibly in an Elegance or L&K too. My point was more that I can't really help you with what bits of loom you may also need.

[Metalligator]

11 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@Metalligator Yes, you need a new unit, or a good second-hand one. You'll get one with the functions you need in any Ambiante or vRS, and possibly in an Elegance or L&K too. My point was more that I can't really help you with what bits of loom you may also need.

The loom seems ok was just wondering if anyone knew the part number as "ocativa door module" isn't getting me anywhere useful

 

Got this from a friendly members VCDS scan but searching on the component/part no brings up things that are nothing like what I want to replace, is my best option pulling it out and seeing what is written on int?:

Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 959 799 B
   Component: 4Q Komfortgerát HLO 0003  
   Coding: 00259
   Shop #: WSC 31480  
   VCID: 36DBEADD7CBA1060FA-4B18

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1U6959802D
   Component: 4Q Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1U6959801D
   Component: 4Q Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1U0959811D
   Component: 4Q Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0004  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1U0959812D
   Component: 4Q Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0004  

6 Faults Found:
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220) 
            27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4) 
            35-00 -  - 
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221) 
            27-00 - Implausible Signal
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222) 
            27-00 - Implausible Signal
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223) 
            27-00 - Implausible Signal

Edited 15 June, 2017 by Metalligator

[Colinskemp]

On 18/03/2014 at 19:09, twoskods said:

Like many others I had the same problem, I thought of doing the same as darrlg described, but took another path. The dissolved pin in the window control unit (WCM) was repaired by making a new pin and soldering it onto the stub remaining. I cut down and fashioned this new pin from a spade fuse, The corresponding female connector in the 29 pin plug was also rusted out and I bought a replecement wire from VAG (£3.90 - robbing Ba$@*^ds) unlatched the connectors in the plug ( push the little purple tab at the bottom of the plug and slide the plastic lock mechanism out a little) the disintegrated connector can the be pushed out using a paperclip or very thin screwdriver. Replace the connector with the new one and button up the purple latching slide, solder and heat shrink the new wire to the red/yellow wire . Before replacing the plug into the WCM I ran a bead of Hermitite around the WCM so that the plug got sealed when put back. The cause was water getting in past the orange seal at the bottom of the 29 pin plug -(it took twelve years to rust through though!!)

Everything now working fine.

 

Garge answer to problem was a new window motor £233 + door loom @ £133 plus labour if you had them do it!

Same problem here with Octavia Mk 1

Did you say you could buy a wire plus its female pin from VAG?  It's a long time ago but was there an item number for it?

Tried the purple clip but it refused to budge and snapped!

Thanks in anticipation.