As we've had nice weather forecast, this Monday I washed the Furby (Black Magic metallic) and went over with a Mer claybar, then applied SRP (Super Resin Polish) by hand. Then it went dark...

This morning I've applied one coat of EGP (Extra Gloss Protection) and I'm planning to do the same again tomorrow morning, however so far I'm not fully satisified with the results; I want a really wet looking deep finish that will also keep the dirt at bay for many months.

So my primary question is, will applying a wax on top of EGP significantly enhance the finish and beading? I was looking in to getting some Collinite 476S, 915, or Finish Kare 1000P, any recommendations on which are also welcome! (I know many people recommend the FK1000P instead of EGP, but the I already own EGP and it's on the car now, so...)

Secondly, what effect of applying any of the above products on top of EGP have in terms of longevity? Are they likely to extend the time needed between applications or will their cleaning abilities just remove the EGP?

Thirdly, what shampoo would people recommend that won't strip off all the sealant and/or wax I've spent ages applying? I've heard Autoglym Shampoo Bodywork Condnditioner is good for this, and also Halfraud's Advanced Car Shampoo but tbh, I'm totally clueless so advice would be welcome.

Please bear in mind I'm a novice at all this detailing stuff, until last year I just used a pressure washer, bucket, wash'n'wax and synthetic sponge(!) like the average Joe. I typically only do a proper detail like this twice a year, rest of the time it just gets shampoo'd and perhaps in future the odd reseal or rewax. If recommending products, please ensure they are easy for idiots like me to apply and buff off by hand and bear in mind I've not got silly money to spend on products (also I am lazy, so as little hard work as possible please!).

Many thanks

Edited 13 March, 201214 yr by ckyliu

Hi,

Firstly, yes, a wax will react differently with water compared to a sealant. It will generally bead much tighter. From the waxes you've mentioned, I doubt you will see a significant difference with the look. The deep wet look comes moree from polishing with a fine finishing polish, this is my mates bonnet not wearing anything at all after being polished with a rotary and menzerna Power Finish.

However, you will see more of a difference with a wax like Chemical guys Pete's 53

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/chemical-guys-pete-39-s-53-paste-wax/prod_337.html

or something like that, nice and oily and it seems to be recommended a hell of a lot on black cars on a detailing forum I've used. I finished his off with Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid but ity was dark by the time I had finished. 2 layers of this lasted all winter on my volvo and is still going.

Secondly, providing the EGP has cured properly (24hrs will be fine) then yes, it will add to the longevity.

Thirdly, few shampoo's will strip wax as long as they are used in the correct dilution ratio's! Don't just pour it in, measure it in. AG Bodywork conditioner is good.

When you notice the beading is fading, a wipe over with SRP then a layer or 2 of wax an hour or so apart and you'll be there!

HTH,

Neil

Many thanks for the advice and photos Neil. Based on what you've said, I think ultimately my car needs correction by a machine polisher, but I have neither the budget nor bravery to attempt this; I know SRP is a good hand polish but it's mainly fillers and even now I can still see some swirl marks.The finish on that Leon looks simply fantastic, that's how I want mine to look but I guess I have to accept that I'm not going to be able to do that unless I go the orbital route. I'll try post some pics up of mine now I've got me second SRP coat done, before the building site near my workplace $h!t$ all over the tailgate...

Any idea what the longevity and ease of aplication for Pete's 53 is like, the reason I was looking at the waxes I mentioned is because they all have a rep for being long lasting and easy(ish) to apply?

Edited 14 March, 201214 yr by ckyliu

No worries,

Unfortunately I haven't used Pete's 53 myself, but on top of SRP, then EGP, I'm sure you'll get a few months out of it, but that is the trade off normally. Oily waxes are not as long lasting as the heavily engineered ones. To top it up, simply wash, dry and re-apply, no need to SRP it everytime. Do that when you feel the beading is starting to fall away, or you want that just waxed look back. From what I gather, it's easy to apply. The secret is, get as thin a layer as possible on it(like it's the last bottle/pot on earth). That goes for all products. The only time anything is a pain to remove is when too much product is applied.

There is nothing wrong with masking them mate. SRP is a cracker for that. Look forward to seeing the Piccies buddy.

Neil

Any idea what the longevity and ease of aplication for Pete's 53 is like, the reason I was looking at the waxes I mentioned is because they all have a rep for being long lasting and easy(ish) to apply?

Pete's 53 is one of the easiest on and off waxes on the market, if the paintwork has been clayed and machined then the shine and surface finish is excellent, it's biggest problem is that it last's a month if your lucky.......... :wonder:

Sounds like Pete's 53 is out then, I'll be damned if I have to reapply the stuff every month! Thanks for letting me know. Looks like I'm back to 476S, 915, or FK1000P, guess I'll have to bite the bullet at some point and see about getting it machine polished or growing some balls and having a go myself(eek!).

And then I imagine it's all a slippery slope from there, once you start machine polishing I presume that's indicative of having "caught the bug" and I'll probably never be happy with the finish!

Edited 15 March, 201214 yr by ckyliu

Sounds like Pete's 53 is out then, I'll be damned if I have to reapply the stuff every month! Thanks for letting me know. Looks like I'm back to 476S, 915, or FK1000P, guess I'll have to bite the bullet at some point and see about getting it machine polished or growing some balls and having a go myself(eek!).

And then I imagine it's all a slippery slope from there, once you start machine polishing I presume that's indicative of having "caught the bug" and I'll probably never be happy with the finish!

Any of the suggested Collinite or FK wax will do the job for both your paintwork and wheels but there is nothing stopping you layering on top to add more depth with an alternative and not as durable wax, it's just a little OTT......... :think:

If you do go down the machine polishing route then I would just say make sure you take your time and work in small areas, it is a slippery slope but it is something that has truly opened my eyes and I personally enjoy every minute, even when machining some of the most challenging lacquers on the market..........

A little late but photos as promised. Not that impressed with the finish as I said, flake pop is nice but that's about it (photos aren't that good either tbh, owing to phone). Will have to see about some machine correction.

She's looking decent mate. Nothing wrong with the finish you have achieved on her there. Some decent reflections and, as you said, some flake pop at the top left of your first photo. Nice one!

The deep wet look comes from the polishing stage I'm afraid, so you will struggle by hand with the products you have. She is 7 years old now after all and probably hasn't been carefully washed with the 2 bucket method all her life so the paintwork won't be in great shape swirl-wise. But decent none the less.

A glaze popped on top of your layers of SRP will help add a little depth, something like Meguiars #7, which is very similar to their deep crystal polish, will undoubtedly give you depth, or another one is Poorboys blackhole, although I'm not a big fan of this one. The one I use is Chemical guys EZ creme glaze. Be warned though, you can spend a fortune. And by the time you've spent £20 here and there, you could have paid a professional to do it! It's a slippery slope.

Neil