Following your thread / progress with great interest, as I also have the engine light on (and ASR light too when I accelerate hard), with no obvious running problems or faults.

I am awaiting a code reader which should arrive next couple of days, and I'm suspecting similar fault codes to yours; around the CTS and MAF.

It's a major bugger and fun-spoiler having an engine light on, even on a car that is running perfectly ....... not to mention the worry for MOT failure in the future.

Good luck, hope the MAF sorts it. ... (£21 does seem really cheap for a MAF though; I was looking at the eBay ones for £44.... but you probably take your chances with either!).

Can anyone confirm how much a genuine VAG MAF costs for the Mk 1 Octavia VRS, from a Skoda Dealer ?

Edited 8 May, 201214 yr by Longyear

I think they are around 120euro anyway, seem to remember asking about it some time back.

About £100 from a Skoda dealer I believe on an exchange basis with your old MAF.

Part number 06A 906 461 LX

With a 12 month warranty on the ebay one I dont see what there is to lose by it personally.

I ran raw data on Torque this morning on the way to work, the coolant temp was round 15degress off what the dash indicated, im going order up the new thermostat today as well as the cheap maf and see how i get on.

Cheap maf will fail time and time again you will keep waisting money imo this is oné part you need to buy the oem one.

You will only have issues that i garantee ;-)

for £20 for a year ill take my chances. I dont have a €120 euro lying spare and then you have no extra gaurentee that wont fail either.

I ran raw data on Torque this morning on the way to work, the coolant temp was round 15degress off what the dash indicated, im going order up the new thermostat today as well as the cheap maf and see how i get on.

was the CTS you put on genuine ? faulty thermostats don't show differences of 15 degrees dash-ecu, values should be equal (4~5 degrees tolerance)

cheap mafs are prone to failure as read on this forum many times...

Okay lads, thanks for your help but im not going to buy the expensive MAF which can still fail I simply do not have the money to do so.

As for the coolant issue i found in an old thread that it is indeed very likely to be the thermostat as the dash reading can fluctuate (ie reading 90 then drop down for no reason when if anything the engine should be running hotter if anything) and that is apparently one of the symptoms of this. (here is the thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/178126-vrs-thermostat/)

Edited 9 May, 201214 yr by fionny

thermostats will either be stuck open or closed when faulty. if the thermo's stuck open you'll have a colder than normal engine when running (going downhill will prove this + your dash reading will be jumpy). if it's stuck closed you'll have either fans on about all the time, or you'll overheat the engine...

to sum it up: if your ecu reading (values you're reading with that app) is 15 degrees lower than the dash reading -> faulty CTS (i did ask you if you've bought a genuine one or not). if both readings go down at the same time it's the thermo

I didnt buy genuine and dont think its the problem (ISO Certified etc.. though), nothing changed between the old and the new and the chanced of both being banjaxed is slim.

Yes on hills is generally when the dash temp drops down to around 60 from the normal 90. Ive always noticed on hills just never connected uphill downhill malarky. The thermostat is super cheap so I am going to pick one up anyway (no again i will not be buying from a stealers)

This is the one I bought: http://www.ebay.ie/i...#ht_1443wt_1396

Edited 9 May, 201214 yr by fionny

I didnt buy genuine and dont think its the problem (ISO Certified etc.. though), nothing changed between the old and the new and the chanced of both being banjaxed is slim.

Yes on hills is generally when the dash temp drops down to around 60 from the normal 90. Ive always noticed on hills just never connected uphill downhill malarky. The thermostat is super cheap so I am going to pick one up anyway (no again i will not be buying from a stealers)

This is the one I bought: http://www.ebay.ie/i...#ht_1443wt_1396

What problems do you think you can eliminate by buying cheapo parts? You can't have any level of confidence in an ebay MAF or CTS so you don't know if you've eliminated faulty components or not. I appreciate funds are tight but you are wasting the money you do have.

Euro Car Parts do a Bosch MAF for £80 (99 euros).

Ask nicely and someone on here might have a spare one you can try.

Again lads I really do appreciate the help but if the money is not there the money is not there, unless someone actually wants to donate the parts to be me or the cash to me I have no options outside what I am doing.

The parts im buying all have warranties for 12months so if they are faulty I can return them with no loss.

If the 2 parts I have ordered do not resolve the issue I will save up for the OEM parts and swop them out then.

Edited 9 May, 201214 yr by fionny

Breakers yard ??? Can get a maf for 15

Breakers yard ??? Can get a maf for 15

Ya if you can find a suitable one, its not easy to come by the correct part here and for the extra 5 quid I got one with a 12 month warranty.

Now no offense but if you are only going to post about the parts then dont bother as its not helping and wont change the situation and I mean that in the nicest possible way.

As it stands I will let people know how I get on with what i have ordered.

Edited 9 May, 201214 yr by fionny

I didnt buy genuine and dont think its the problem (ISO Certified etc.. though), nothing changed between the old and the new and the chanced of both being banjaxed is slim.

believe it or not, i've seen brand new cts, "certified" and all that crap, faulty even before installation

nobody is forcing you to go out and buy the most expensive parts, it's your car, but if more people suggest it's best you buy a certain make for a certain part it's probably the best bet out there

Yes on hills is generally when the dash temp drops down to around 60 from the normal 90. Ive always noticed on hills just never connected uphill downhill malarky. The thermostat is super cheap so I am going to pick one up anyway (no again i will not be buying from a stealers)

that's what i was talking about. if you had provided this info from the start it might have spared you the CTS money. changing the thermo should do the trick (it's blocked open)

don't take this the wrong way and it's not a criticism

but if you can't afford to fit a quality genuine part would you not be better selling up and getting a more affordable car?

that's what i was talking about. if you had provided this info from the start it might have spared you the CTS money. changing the thermo should do the trick (it's blocked open)

I hadnt connected it until you mentioned hills, I reset the ECU faults again tonight and the MAF obviously fired straight away given its plugged out but the coolant error hasnt yet, but then its pretty much all up hill to my house, on the way to work will keep an eye on the dash and see if it crops up.

And ya i know its possible that something is DOA its happened me with computer parts but it is unlikely. Either way from what ive read i think the thermo will sort the problem.

@STSKODA,

Not really the cars aint worth a whole lot any more etc... I wanted to do this some time back but selling the car, finding a new one etc... it wont save me any money. Cash is tight at the minute but im confident i will get my £20 out of the MAF. If I dont then so be it ill return it but for the moment im happy with what ive ordered. Im going to say no more on the origin of the parts in fact everyone just imagine they are all new and over priced like VAG want them then we can move on.

Ill check back when the new parts have been fitted to the car. Thanks for the help but seriously please stop with the parts.

people only mean well and are trying to save you hassle which is worth it in the long run

let us know how you get on, hope you get her running well again

I know people mean well and thats why I keep trying to phrase it nicely but people keep bringing it back up. I may well learn my lesson but we'll see. I will be sure to update ye all.

Just an update, fitted the new MAF today and got much better readings off it old MAF was reporting 248g/s or there abouts new MAF much more reasonable and no faults popping. While testing the MAF my brother watched the coolant too and we could see the temps fluctuating all the time so we did the thermostat, ball of a placing for it and we snapped the oil guide pipe (like alot of people said would happen :p) but we got the new thermo in and tested again and all working swimmingly. Time will tell with the parts now. Next job buy new oil guide pipe

Nice one ... it's great when you fix something on these cars, reset the light, take it on the magic test run, and the light doesn't come back on

Had it with failed coil packs and a failed MAF too. MAFs are overpriced. I bought a genuine Bosch one from GSF for £101 which was a saving of about £35 compared to the dealer (with the VAT factored). Still a lot of cash though. I really hope your lower cost MAF lasts; I've had lower cost MAFs for other cars and gotten years out of them.

Yup time will tell got a 12 month warranty anyway

Hey All,

So a brand new fault has emerged now:

Current Fault Log

------------------

P0411: Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected - High Input

Any ideas? Some quick googling implied an Air pump on the way out but I wouldve thought that would be a low input?

Usually what happens is the rivits holding the pump together fails, the fix is to drill them out and fit bolts instead

Sent from my GT-I9100. Not a Crapple!