I had a problem with my Möbius cam starting up but it turned out to be the camera not the cable or step down and it was replaced by the Chinese ebay seller with no quibbles. Since then the replacement camera has started up on auto first time every time. Given this I dont think the longer cable or step down box are likely to be the main source of problems, more likely faulty cameras. I wouldn't be surprised if the others experiencing issues are down to dodgy camera batteries or similar as there is very little to go wrong in the other components.

The cost keeps creeping up. I keep remembering bits I'll need.

Just ordered a Kingston 32Mb micro-SD card off Amazon for £10.70 but trundlenut's post just reminded me that I'll need an adaptor to be able to insert it into my laptop to view the footage!

I had a problem with my Möbius cam starting up but it turned out to be the camera not the cable or step down and it was replaced by the Chinese ebay seller with no quibbles. Since then the replacement camera has started up on auto first time every time. Given this I dont think the longer cable or step down box are likely to be the main source of problems, more likely faulty cameras. I wouldn't be surprised if the others experiencing issues are down to dodgy camera batteries or similar as there is very little to go wrong in the other components.

 

In my case it has always been cables, I have the original 1st generation cameras running perfectly for 18 months. If you get a 5 meter cable trying to push 5volts down that length to give a consistent current will be a real issue when talking of the cheapest possible cable on ebay lol. 

If you need an SD card, I think I got my 32GB for £11 or £12 and it works great. I kept checking HUKD for offers and one popped up

In my case it has always been cables, I have the original 1st generation cameras running perfectly for 18 months. If you get a 5 meter cable trying to push 5volts down that length to give a consistent current will be a real issue when talking of the cheapest possible cable on ebay lol. 

 

Yeah thinking again if you have the very cheap ones that will be an issue (I now recall my cheapy Poundland extension cable for my phone charger is quite temperamental !).

I did have issues with my Mobius with it just not recording. Have updated the firmware to the latest version, formatted the memory card, and changed the USB charger in my hidden 12v socket and it hasn't missed a beat since.

 

Also just received a Mini 0805 in the post yesterday. Has a micro USB connector rather than the mini USB of the Mobius, so need a new USB cable or a mini-micro USB adapter. Will either put the Mobius in the rear of my car or in my girlfriend's Picanto.

 

Anyone who has a rear camera set up, how have you done it so that it starts on ignition live? Heard about needing to tap into one of the rear wiper wires? I have a 12V socket in the boot but it's permanent live so no good for a camera.

Hmmm, given the claimed unreliability of the 12V to 5V step-down adaptors (especially when used at the end of a longish USB cable) I'm now thinking this set-up  might be more reliable... 

 

Camera - mini USB to USB (from the camera along the headlining and down the A-pillar into the end-of-dash fuse box):

 

 

USB to 12V in-car cigarette lighter plug (stored in the car's fuse box):

 

 

Then 12V in-car plug into a 12V in-car socket (stored in the car's fuse box):

 

 

Then into the piggy back fuse holder, positive to 5A fuse box and negative to dash securing point:

 

 

Edited 20 January, 201511 yr by silver1011

Hmmm, given the claimed unreliability of the 12V to 5V step-down adaptors (especially when used at the end of a longish USB cable) I'm now thinking this set-up  might be more reliable... 

 

Camera - mini USB to USB (from the camera along the headlining and down the A-pillar into the end-of-dash fuse box):

 

 

USB to 12V in-car cigarette lighter plug (stored in the car's fuse box):

 

 

Then 12V in-car plug into a 12V in-car socket (stored in the car's fuse box):

 

 

Then into the piggy back fuse holder, positive to 5A fuse box and negative to dash securing point:

 

 

There is plenty of space to do that, you could while there go into the cubby hold by right knee and complete the lot http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/265343-dash-cam-12v-multi-adaptor-hidden-install-driver-storage-compartment

I might be wrong but I can't really see why the step down is any better in that charger device than the things already discussed?  Either way you still have the longer cable which is probably the more likely culprit (depending on its quality).

I did have issues with my Mobius with it just not recording. Have updated the firmware to the latest version, formatted the memory card, and changed the USB charger in my hidden 12v socket and it hasn't missed a beat since.

 

Also just received a Mini 0805 in the post yesterday. Has a micro USB connector rather than the mini USB of the Mobius, so need a new USB cable or a mini-micro USB adapter. Will either put the Mobius in the rear of my car or in my girlfriend's Picanto.

 

Anyone who has a rear camera set up, how have you done it so that it starts on ignition live? Heard about needing to tap into one of the rear wiper wires? I have a 12V socket in the boot but it's permanent live so no good for a camera.

 

I have opted in the last 3 cars to run a live from the fusebox via a piggyback adapter and put 2 12v sockets in the boot one at each side at tops, then use an earthing point back there or run a dual cable and use the same one at front as other camera. That way I can power camera on a short neatly routed cable and have another 12V socket in the boot still for anything I ever need. Used it for compressor a good few times now when checking pressures on my bike. 

I might be wrong but I can't really see why the step down is any better in that charger device than the things already discussed?  Either way you still have the longer cable which is probably the more likely culprit (depending on its quality).

 

In the cheap cables on ebay I find 2.5 meters is the perfect length for front camera to route around top of windscreen, down A-pillar and nearly into fusebox and beyond to where I put them. I have been through...... 1.5/2.0/2.5/3.0/3.5/4.0&5.0 meter cables and more than one rom more than omne source of each. 2.5meter seem to be faultless no matter if I pay £9.99 or £1.25 delivered. I always drive them with a 3.1A 12V to USB adaptor though. Specifically this one, both front and rear. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-USB-Universal-12V-3-1A-In-Car-Charger-Twin-Port-for-iPhone-ipad-htc-Black-/271691151291?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item3f420df7bb

I might be wrong but I can't really see why the step down is any better in that charger device than the things already discussed?  Either way you still have the longer cable which is probably the more likely culprit (depending on its quality).

 

I guess the reasons behind the unreliability are still unknown, the impressions are that it is the cable length that is the cause, perhaps the voltage drops over the longer cables?

 

Either way I have alreay ordered the 12V to 5V step-down adaptor and 3m cable so will try this set-up first.

 

My proposal above is a sanity check incase the step-down adaptor does prove troublesome.

I guess the reasons behind the unreliability are still unknown, the impressions are that it is the cable length that is the cause, perhaps the voltage drops over the longer cables?

 

Either way I have alreay ordered the 12V to 5V step-down adaptor and 3m cable so will try this set-up first.

 

My proposal above is a sanity check incase the step-down adaptor does prove troublesome.

 

I cannot foresee an issue with the setup your propose. Provided the USB step down thing provides the stated voltage and ampage 3M cable should work fine. 

Sorry another question. What size fuse is required for the piggyback fuse holder?

 

I've seen your picture FUBAR, I'm assuming the 5A fuse for the dash camera is piggy backing the cars 15A fuse?

 

I therefore need to source a 5A fuse?

 

Sorry another question. What size fuse is required for the piggyback fuse holder?

I've seen your picture FUBAR, I'm assuming the 5A fuse for the dash camera is piggy backing the cars 15A fuse?

I therefore need to source a 5A fuse?

Yer the slot by the red wire is for the dash cam. A 4 amp or 5 amp fuse is fine

Sent from my Galaxy S5

The slot by the red wire in the picture is 15A?

 

I'm still unsure which slot should seat the original fuse and which slot houses the camera fuse.

 

I think the best method to know for sure is to alternate the original fuse across both slots and see in which position the original function (rear wiper etc.) no longer works.

Provided you ground the power adapter to a suitable earth you can run the piggyback fuse off an unused slot.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

The slot by the red wire in the picture is 15A?

I'm still unsure which slot should seat the original fuse and which slot houses the camera fuse.

I think the best method to know for sure is to alternate the original fuse across both slots and see in which position the original function (rear wiper etc.) no longer works.

The one directly Infront of wire is dashcam

Sent from my Galaxy S5

Provided you ground the power adapter to a suitable earth you can run the piggyback fuse off an unused slot.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

Really, the empty slots aren't blanks then?

 

I assumed that the slots with no fuses in were spares for options not fitted to the car etc.

 

I hadn't realised they were still wired up.

 

I plan to ground / earth off the dashboard securing bolt that most of the other lads seem to be using.

Really, the empty slots aren't blanks then?

I assumed that the slots with no fuses in were spares for options not fitted to the car etc.

I hadn't realised they were still wired up.

I plan to ground / earth off the dashboard securing bolt that most of the other lads seem to be using.

There's a busbar which runs along the upper side off all the fuse slots, but the empty ones will have nothing on the lower side. So as you are just taking the power from the top through the piggy back fuse and away it doesn't matter.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Hmm, interesting, everyday is a school day!

So if I use the piggyback fuse holder I have on order (as illustrated above), stick in two 5A fuses and pop it into a spare/blank slot I should be good?

Assuming of course it is grounded (which will be done via the negative wire on the 12V to 5V step-down adaptor).

Yer the slot by the red wire is for the dash cam. A 4 amp or 5 amp fuse is fine

Sent from my Galaxy S5

 

 

The slot by the red wire in the picture is 15A?

 

I'm still unsure which slot should seat the original fuse and which slot houses the camera fuse.

 

I think the best method to know for sure is to alternate the original fuse across both slots and see in which position the original function (rear wiper etc.) no longer works.

 

 

Provided you ground the power adapter to a suitable earth you can run the piggyback fuse off an unused slot.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

 

The one directly Infront of wire is dashcam

 

 

Sent from my Galaxy S5

 

 

Really, the empty slots aren't blanks then?

 

I assumed that the slots with no fuses in were spares for options not fitted to the car etc.

 

I hadn't realised they were still wired up.

 

I plan to ground / earth off the dashboard securing bolt that most of the other lads seem to be using.

 

As explained in post#1 in thread picture is taken from (directly above said picture in fact, in red to emphasise it). It's best and simple to check. I have a fair few blade adaptors from random ebay sellers and not all were the same slot for the piggyback fuse. 

 

 

As per J306TD's pic above it's 'best' to use the same ampage of fuse in both and that is how I have them in current car (had to use a mini and a micro for that), but I wanted to run of the least critical circuit I could in the new car.

 

With regard to which fuse to go for, you are installing 2X 3amp outputs, 5amp should be fine as camera will not draw 3 amps and no matter what you use in second USB it won't feed it more than 3. I run 10amp in front and a 15amp in rear as I use a 12v-2X 5volt at 3.1amp each adaptor which in turn has it's own internal fuse and rear is intended to run high output items from time to time in spare 12V socket installed. That could be seen as an advantage in terms of redundancy having 12V sockets and plugs for the addition of another fuse in the loop.

Hmmm, given the claimed unreliability of the 12V to 5V step-down adaptors (especially when used at the end of a longish USB cable) I'm now thinking this set-up  might be more reliable... 

 

Camera - mini USB to USB (from the camera along the headlining and down the A-pillar into the end-of-dash fuse box):

 

 

 

 

 

That's  A-Male to B-Micro USB cable in pic not a mini btw. 

Good spot FUBAR, cleary the Mobius is Mini not Micro, poor choice of image on my side.

 

Another school day for me!