j0hn's Hybrid Mk2. MOAR BRAKE!

[j0hn]

About time I put something together for my 2007 Octavia vRS FSIT mk2, as I spend more money and do more things.

Bought September 25th 2011, 58k miles, 12 months MOT, full Skoda service history, balance of service plan and accessory vouchers.

Xenons, Maxidot, Auto/anti-dazzle mirrors and auto wipers, Jumbo Box (2 zone and rear electric windows), 18" Zeniths, Stream MP3 with Aux input, cruise, spare wheel.

Needed a cambelt, which was done by Nass Tech in Leicester along with the tensioners and water pump. Shortly after sourced a set of rubber mats for winter, a set of wiper blades to replace the knackered ones and a new aerial (amp in the base had gone).

Got it home:

IMG_0466 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Not going to go into a huge amount of detail, if there is anything you want to know please ask. To date the car has had:

• Motech stage 1 remap, approx 240 bhp and 265 lb ft torque - they're the dyno figs anyway before I changed the intake. The subsequent logging gave a peak power calculation (from torque) of 254 bhp. Don't believe it tbh!
• *Enclosed* ITG intake and induction kit, put together by ITG to see if it could be done. It can and it's good. Only been on a week and have done no logging yet, but car definitely feels different.
• Rev D Diverter valve - original one was alright, but changed after it was mapped at the suggestion of the tuner.
• RCD510DAB head unit from Mk6 Golf, Columbus-spec trim panel and Calearo DAB aerial (the non DAB OE aerial is made by the same company and, other than the security feature on the mast, it's identical).
• 7N0 CAN gateway.
• Fiscon Basic Plus Bluetooth.
• Silvatec indicators all round, LED number plate lamps, M-Tec white sidelights.
• Bilstein B14PSS Coilovers.
• Cobra Parkmaster kit with the small flush mount sensors as per OE post-FL cars, not the £16 ebay bottle tops.

At the beginning of the year my dad bought a Superb TSI SE and, as my wife has a mk5 Golf, I also decided to buy a Ross Tech Hex+CAN and get myself set up with VCDS. This enabled me to change the CAN gateway myself and code up all of the other stuff that needed doing.

As well as the cambelt, the A/C compressor was found to be knackered, so a new Sanden compressor sourced and fitted. The offside mirror indicator had stopped working and was replaced, the missing wheel nut covers replaced, washer jets replaced as these weren't spraying as designed to, spark plugs replaced at 60K with NGK Iridium and the nearside front door seal replaced as I thought water was coming in through the little hole I found (it's not, I think it's coming through the ancilliaries carrier). I'm pretty sure I'd picked up another couple of replacement parts from either Farmers or TPS, but I can't remember what they are now!

IMG_0725 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_5949 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_5970 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_5974 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

IMG_1004 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Needs to go lower!

photo(5) by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

photo(1) by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

photo(2) by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

photo(3) by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

photo(4) by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

IMG_0872 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Plans?

Don't really want to go mad with money and not sure it's worth spending out for full on stage 2 really (assuming I will need downpipe/sports cat or TBE), HPFP and a stage 2 map (although I am thinking of going for HPFP internals anyway).

Will probably do something with the brakes, either NQSBBBK or some uprated discs/pads. Set of spacers once the coilovers are wound a bit lower, MDI is a must so I can plug my iPod in and control from the head unit. I want the wheels refurbed but I am also thinking of another set of wheels as well, but can't decide on what. I also want to do the Light Assist retro fit as it should theoretically need a light switch and some coding, I don't know how to check if there is anything else I need.

I'll post again when I think of what else I've done as my mind has gone blank for now.

John

Edited 4 January, 2016 by j0hn

[Hunty278]

Nicely done buddy! Where did you get the ITG intake from and how much was it if you don't mindme asking? Also did you used to use the CYC forum with a blue focus?

Look forward to more installments

[Bogwoppit]

Nice spec octavia. That enclosed ITG looks really good, be interesting to see if ITG release it for sale, quite a few people on mk5golfgti forum might like it.

[j0hn]

Nicely done buddy! Where did you get the ITG intake from and how much was it if you don't mindme asking? Also did you used to use the CYC forum with a blue focus?

Look forward to more installments

Yes that was me with the blue Focus on CYC although I've not been on for a while, I seem to stick to DW. There's better write ups of the Focus on there and on focusowners.com.

The ITG kit was put together by ITG at their base in Coventry and comprises the front end of the kit fitted to the TSI and the back end of the TFSI kit, cost is anticipated to be in the region of £450 +VAT if it goes on sale. I haven't taken it apart but I think it is a G60 filter (as found on the TFSI kits), just fitted into an airbox.

Nice spec octavia. That enclosed ITG looks really good, be interesting to see if ITG release it for sale, quite a few people on mk5golfgti forum might like it.

Yeah spec is about there now, few bits to do. I think ITG are considering selling it as a kit, especially now they have the deal with VWR to distribute all VAG kits. I think they wanted to have a look at this platform to see if it could be done as the Mk5 has a bigger and slightly differently shaped slam panel than the Octavia (and the Mk6 is apparently more like this), so it did go together really well. It does suck a lot of air - my most recent VCDS logs show around 180 g/sec all the way up to near the red line - I'd not logged that standard or previous intake I had, but I am fairly confident more air is getting past the MAF than before and the air intake temps are maxing around 30 ?C too.

I'm occasionally getting P0087 come up though which suggests an issue with fuel pressure. I ran a log earlier which show a massive difference between specified and actual fuel pressure (up to 40bar) - Specified Rail Pressure shows 109.99 bar, matched by Actual fairly well, but Actual drops (at 3400rpm) to 93, 88, 80, 77, 73, 69, 66 and jumps back t 93 and then matches the Specified Pressure again.

The data from the first logs I've done since I had the map re-written (I thought the first had a boost drop off) show the car to not be quite so agressive as the first map. I'm kind of half-tempted to have it put back to standard and then go and get it done properly once and for all.

[Guest BigJase88]

Nice air intake but at £450 its a bit rediculous isnt it really? For not much gain

Jealous of the bilsteins

[j0hn]

When the coilovers got fitted last week, they were set up midway, which I think equated roughly to a 10mm drop (if that). Decided that I should attempt to wind them down a bit more last night.

Crappy iPhone pic but am so ashamed at how dirty the car is that I daren't point an SLR at it

Think it needs spacers at the back now.

IMG_1090 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

[j0hn]

A bit cleaner and wound down with a couple of threads left to play with.

DSC_5999 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6000 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6013 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

What a difficult car to lower - or at least it's very easy but the ride height must be so high to begin with that managing the drop with the type of product available and not going mad is quite tough.

The pics above represent probably a 30mm drop over standard vRS ride height, which probably equates to 40-42mm ish over a non-vRS Octavia. By comparison the Eibachs I fitted to the previous car (Focus) had quite a dramatic visual effect and really improved the ride. These B14s are quite hard, they're not harsh or crashy but they're definitely much firmer than an OE shock.

Not sure what's next, I keep thinking of pressed plates and spacers. Oh and I have some PastyBadges to go on too.

[vrs777]

This has come along way since you purchased it, looking really good with the bits you've added. The light assist kit is a fairly easy job and all the parts can be found on skodaparts.com including the repair wires.

The hardest bit is gaining access to the bloody box of electronics the wire need to be plugged into, i've tried to explain it here after doing it myself

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/237609-help-fairly-urgent/page__fromsearch__1

[j0hn]

Thanks for the guide Rob, I'll look into that.

The only thing for me with the leaving/coming home lighting is that I don't want the xenons coming on for short periods and I think I need a 30 byte CECM to be able to use the foglights for CH/LH lights.

Pulled most of this off another forum, but here's the latest update:

DSC_6037 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6039 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6046 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

More pics here also.

During the last detail, I stuck the wheel brush through the wheel spokes and managed to spread what we think is CV joint grease all over the face of the O/S front wheel. A-mazing. I had been thinking that something had been going on down there for a while and so my suspicions were confirmed. I've had not had the time (or the inclination in the rain) to get under the car, but the boot does not appear to have come off the shaft, so I think it's got to be split. Car will be going to my friendly local mechanic next week to get it sorted.

Unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the only problem - a couple of times I'd noticed the car really seemed to lose power, almost like a boost leak or heading towards limp mode, before recovering and discovered the following fault code:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl

Part No SW: 1Z0 907 115 A HW: 8P0 907 115 B

Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040

Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: SKZ7Z0F4012513

Coding: 0203000318070160

Shop #: WSC 00191 264 15243

VCID: 336F3044522E491

1 Fault Found:

000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure

P0087 - 002 - Too Low - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100010

Fault Priority: 0

Fault Frequency: 2

Mileage: 103462 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2000.00.00

Time: 16:05:42

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 3756 /min

Load: 89.4 %

Speed: 128.0 km/h

Temperature: 90.0°C

Temperature: 22.0°C

Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar

Voltage: 14.224 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

That to me says there is either something wrong with the pump or the fuel pump follower, but advice from our very own vRS Carl over on Briskoda suggests I should check out the fuel filter first. Answers on a postcard, but is it possible that the fuel filter is blocked and therefore it prevents fuel getting to the fuel rail?

My block 230 log shows this (I have no idea if this is relevant but the difference between actual and specified does not look right to me):

Block230log by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Everything seems to be going OK until that point at 3320rpm when the actual rail pressure drops and there appears to be some kind of safe mode thing going on and the engine speed settles at 3520 and specified rail pressure comes down to the level that the rail is actually providing.

The car feels like it's done it again a couple of times since, but not showing any fault codes, so I am kind of puzzled. It *definitely* feels like it's down on power, I don't know whether the map is not great (the guy who actually wrote the map seems to have a good reputation) or if there is a mechanical problem on the car that needs to be sorted out, but I think I need a specialist to change the fuel pump follower. If the pump if fecked I am going down the HPFP route as it seems reasonably cost effective.

And on to the next set of problems

Actually, I'm being a bit unfair - yes you can be a bit unlucky with a car, maybe you might have 2 duff cars in a row, but I think that some folk can, and will, find fault with anything and everything and sometimes it's more likely the fault lies with them. Yes I have a few niggles with this one, but that's all they are at the moment - it's a 5 year old car, it's done 65000 miles and it's not going to be perfect.

I sent the car off to Farmers Skoda in Leicester for it's 70K inspection service - well, they called it a 70K service, judging by the book it's had 2 or 3 variable services and 2 fixed interval (this being the third). I would generally not go near a main dealer with a car of this vintage as the same job can be done elsewhere, but first of all I think Farmers are brilliant (genuinely I do, but I haven't had to test them with something really problematic yet) and secondly when I bought the car, it had a remaining service left in the service plan the previous owner was sold. I wasn't going to pay for it again somewhere else when it was already covered now, was I?!

So car is ready and, to give Farmers massive credit, the boot hook I paid for (£6 odd) and expected to have to fit myself, was fitted at no cost - fair play. Secondly the bottle of screenwash I'd taken when I ordered the boot hook, and not paid for as it was added to the bill, was FOC - even better. AND, they didn't wash it either after I asked not to!!! The next service is £249 and I am seriously considering handing it over for the job. Am I mental?

Anyway, I get the list of things wrong with the car when the paperwork is complete and I am not surprised at some of them, but a couple of things are a bit concerning or not entirely clear. That list in full:

Carried out 70K service

EVHC (no idea what this means

Changed service interval to QGI Longlife (I think that’s what it says on the sheet). The service manager said this hadn’t been done and they had used 502 part synthetic oil – I need to plug the VCDS in to check that the indicator is not set to variable or I could go 18k miles on oil made to last 10k.

• Rear indicators dim - I have Silvatec lamps fitted, I am not surprised at this
  
• N/S Bump stop starting to split (don’t know whether this is front or rear, but suspect rear
  
• Front discs and pads 70% worn
  
• Rear discs and pads 85% worn
  
• Car undershield missing (looks like car has bottomed out at some point - I had noticed this before, I’ll add a bit more to this
  
• Rear translink bushes starting to delaminate - translink – is that subframe or ARB (I suspect the latter)?
  
• Front discs have massive lip on inner edge and breaking up
  
• Suspect n/s/f wheel has been rubbing on wheel arch - news to me tbh
  
• uprated suspension fitted front and rear - well I knew that, obviously
  
• O/S/R tyre perished and cracking - I think that’s a bit of an overstatement....
  
• Rear wiper smearing
  

So there’s nothing that isn’t uncommon for a 65k miles car, some things I knew about and some things I should have known about.

I knew the brakes were on the way out and were due to be replaced, I knew the undershield was missing and I spotted this one of the most recent times I got the car in the air – there are two separate undertrays runing down the length of the car, one right and one left. I noticed that the one on the right has been broken off – there are still remnants where they mount onto the underside of the car. Now I’m not sure how this has bottomed out but am curious to know how it might have happened. I guess it’s possible that some idiot tried lifting the car without using a jacking point and broke it, or it’s possible the car has had a smack on one side (which would possibly suggest why the car has been painted), I really don’t know. It was HPI clear when I bought it and assume if it had been accident damaged, that ought to have been recorded. Assuming the ARB bushes are knackered, I am tempted to put a new ARB in with some new bushes and have done. I may consider a set of uprated bump stops, but standard ones ought to do the job. I could do with a new set of tyres as it is but am certainly curious about the N/S/F wheel rubbing on the arch, unless this is further indication that something’s happened to the car. I know it’s nowhere near low enough to cause any rubbing and I haven’t heard or felt anything that would suggest this was the case. Furthermore the tyre isn’t shagged out either, so I have no idea what’s happened there. The wiper blade on the back has been smearing since I bought it from Skoda at the beginning of the year and I’m not going to replace the Silvatecs for orange lamps so they’re not as dim.

I guess I’m going to have to spend some money, although it does make me slightly uncertain about the history of the car, if I do sell it I’ll only want to buy another one (or maybe a 2.8 V6 turbo Saab 9-3 SW!) and so maybe it’s better the devil you know. I know a lot of the parts I’ve fitted to this would come off and go straight onto another one, but I can’t really be arsed. I know I wouldn’t be happy selling it if the brakes are on there last legs and I have obviously become too reliant on things like service indicators and pad wear lights to actually thoroughly check (although I could see these needed replacing soon. I’m not annoyed, but even if I go for a set of Falkens and a couple of Mintex brake boxes (pads and discs for both ends) I am probably looking at £650 – I did have a hankering for some R32 or S3 calipers and 345mm discs, but that’s probably a good £500 worth, so not really an option. An ARB is £180 but bushes alone quite cheap. If I have to get the suspension apart for the bump stops, I am half tempted to put a set of Sportline springs and some more suitable shocks on and sell on the B14s (they’re good, but they are firm – easy enough to live with but they’re not as comfy as a standard car).

So that’s that for now, last fill did 21mpg :doublesho and got me thinking about a diesel again. The 1.6 TDI Fabia I took to work from Skoda did 39mpg, bearing in mind these things do more like 60mpg in the right environment, the stopping and starting driving doesn’t really do any good at all, so I’ll stick with what I’ve got.

Edited 9 June, 2012 by j0hn

[j0hn]

And to add to the above, I thought I'd spend a bit of time having a look around the car to see what problems there are.

First of all, investigated the CV boot. It's not split and nor is there an outpouring of grease from anywhere - most unusual. There is evidence of a noise (the familar CV joint crack crack) when on full lock (noticed it reversing around corners mostly) but am at a loss as to where this is coming from. Will have it properly investigated by somebody with a ramp, time and skills next week.

Pads and discs all round are pretty much knackered so they will have to be replaced - I want to upgrade these and can't afford R32/S3 calipers and discs - any suggestions for upgrading discs and pads and is there anything to be gained by going for a grooved or drilled disc?

Trans link bushes - I (think) I've narrowed this down to the ARB bushes and can see on one side, these have started to split. Will investigate the cost of replacing these with standard and uprated but might just go for a Whiteline ARB instead.

The N/S/F wheel has definitely rubbed on something on the inside - I am not sure what though as the adjustable spring platform is obviously above the tyre and the wheel rim wouldn't rub on anything else. I think what's most likely is that I have caught the inside of the rim on one of those big rubber speed humps that are just ever so slightly wider than the track of the car. I'm going to clean the inside of the wheel up and see if it comes back.

Oh and the rear bump stop has started to split - do you have to replace these in pairs? Is there such a thing as an uprated bump stop? I know you can get shorter ones but is there much point?

Cheers!

[rob_e]

Nice thread. Interesting feedback on the B14's too.. thanks for that.

I'm probably going to go for B16's on the next car - i don't want to spend a bunch of money on suspension again only to find i was wishing it to be just a little firmer/softer and the adjust ability of the b16 kit should give me that. The weitecs I have now are ok and pretty good value for money at 500 quid but just once in a while i wish they were a bit less firm on the "corrugated" tarmac we seem to have more and more in the uk.

[rob_e]

I am half tempted to put a set of Sportline springs and some more suitable shocks on and sell on the B14s (they’re good, but they are firm – easy enough to live with but they’re not as comfy as a standard car).

Eibach only make "pro" springs for the octavia IIRC, not sportlines. Pro equates to about 15mm drop only on a vrs.

[mark_eire]

Nice work so far, the car is identical to my last vRS before my current one! I've gone from an '07 to an '06, long story!

Just wondering who fitted the parking sensors for you and was it expensive, PM if you prefer? They are the best looking retrofit sensors I've seen.

Thanks

[j0hn]

Rob the B14s can be a little firm on very bumpy surfaces and things can occasionally get a little bumpy but by and large they are ok. I knew Sportlines used to be offered and I still think they're available for the mk5 but I guess the rear axle weights are different.

Mark the PDC is a Cobra Parkmaster kit - I paid £170 fitted from a company in Leicester called Autoroofs. I looked up the cost of the kits and they retail around the 60 quid mark, plus shipping and the cost of colour coding so I thought the price was reasonable.

[j0hn]

News (and not so many pictures, because it gets in the way of doing the work.

New discs and pads all round - I went to ECP with one of their most recent discount codes and got a full set of Pagid for £156, which I thought was acceptable. Car seems to stop as well as it did before now the brakes have bedded in, not sure I would feel the need to go for anything beefier, the internet has lots of fors and againsts particular brands, I read EBC Redstuff are OK, but then read as much that says EBC stuff is not very good. I can't afford a big brake kit (well I can, but I don't want to spend the money ) but might have to consider something if I get on a track.

I also bought an AutoTech RARB from Rob at W8 and (eventually) got around to fitting this last week.

IMG_1322 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Unfortunately the inside splines of the o/s bolt holding the RARB to the drop link was so corroded, they just crumbled as soon as the spline bit came into contact. I should probably have gone and bought a pair of drop links there and then, but left it until mid-week and got around to doing these last night.

The N/S came off nice and easy but when I got to the O/S, put the spline bit into the bolt, the outer edge of the bolt split and I couldn't get any grip on it. Very annoying and, whilst I had appropriate tools, I think 1/4" spline bit sockets on a small ratchet and a set of ratchet spanners would make the job more controllable. I have learned my lesson and will most likely treat the drop links as serviceable parts, changing them every couple of years so they come apart without too much grief. The old droplinks were very spongy so it was definitely worthwhile. I put the car back together (as in new RARB, new O/S drop link, old N/S droplink) and went to my local independent tyre place, who were very helpful and took the old droplink out with the use of a nut splitter and fitted the new droplink. Geometry was also checked while I was there and toe and camber reset although the bolt through the rear arm on the O/S is now welded solid, which meant that side couldn't be adjusted as it was likely to split the bush if it did give. I think a couple of new rear arms is now on the cards (more joy!).

I had also decided it was high time to replace the cam follower on the fuel pump as I suspected that it had not ever been replaced and could be a cause of the fuel rail pressure issues I had been having. New cam follower sourced from TPS on the left, old one on the right

IMG_1325 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

As you can see the coating has worn and there are a couple of small score marks on the top but apart from that, it doesn't seem too bad. Maybe somebody more enlightened than I can explain the level of wear on the follower I removed. Is it the case that the coating is worn down fairly easily?

At the same time I changed the PCV, first buying a revision P before I realised I needed a new crankcase breather with the built in valve, looking at the work involved in changing the breather (quite tight for space, ITG kit and heat shield needs to come off) and then going to buy a rev N valve instead. With the cam follower and PCV fitted, the car does seem a little smoother. There is still a bit of lumpy idle but it's not as bad as it was.

Having taken some logs, the overboosting problem seems to be less severe but still producing more boost than requested, which is still high IMO. There is stil a difference between actual and requested fuel rail pressure - it's more like 20-30% now, and not reporting a fault code as above, but it's still not right. I also measured some timing pull at the top end of the rev range and am still part suspecting the map. I have been in contact with another tuner with a view to having the map replaced and will hopefully be able to report back mid-August.

[j0hn]

Afternoon.

Just a quick one to try and cover the msot recent things.

After being told by Skoda that one of the tyres was starting to perish and being subsequently told by my local tyre guy that two tyres were "scrap", I went for a full set of Michelin PS3s. So far so good, they're quieter, not prone to breaking traction in the same way as the previous crap and seem better in the wet too. I was originally going to replace them for a set of FK452s but have so far not had much luck in finding many people who have put a full set of four on a car and then kept the car long enough to wear out a full set, so whilst a matching pair on an axle gives some indication of what they're like, I really wanted to know what they're like when they start to wear out and I couldn't really find an answer to that question. I like the PS3s, I know some folk won't but I think that's probably going to be the same whatever tyre I chose. Anyway I know they better than the rubbish that is fitted to these:

DSC_6442 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

I'm need to get the Zeniths redone so I looked around for a set of spare wheels on ebay and these were about the best VFM (ie cheapest with legal tyres) that didn't require a mission of a journey to pick them up. They have fitted a pair of P6000s (yuck), a Barum Bravarius 2 (I don't know what this is) and a Hankook Ventus V12 - so 1 out of 4 ain't bad. They will do for when I take the Zeniths off and get them in to be refurbed. I will probably strip the tyres off them and replace them with Winters although I don't think 225/45/17 is idea for a winter tyre so I may try and swap them for a set of 16s and put 205 winters on those instead.

OK, then there was this:

Untitled by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Or more specifically this:

IMG_1384 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Doesn't really say much does it?! I've had the terrible, laggy, lumpy Motech map removed and replaced with the APR Stage 1 map and it's a joy, it really is hugely enjoyable to drive. So much smoother, feels very quick and I am almost certain my economy has improved over the Motech map. It's still not much good but then I am a) still in the honeymoon period of a new map and still commuting on a crap stop/starty route. I haven't taken any logs yet but I know the car still has an issue with low fuel rail pressure which tells me either the pressure sensor, fuel filter or one of the fuel pumps is a problem. Also the evap pipe has shown a fault code twice in the last couple of weeks which is something else that needs to be addressed.

Why APR? I was put onto APR from a thread on SCN where a member had been onto APR in CMK to discuss replacing a map that was also causing problems. APR (I believe) did them a freebie as a showcase, not that I was after that myself, but the support, tech and (my) perceived benefits of going APR ultimately got my money. Not only that but they answered the phone. And replied to emails. A lot of people would lask why I wouldn't go Shark as that seems to be the tuner of choice in these parts, especially with their proximity to me, but I found it very difficult to communicate with them. They weren't the only ones - I am not one of these "I'm a busy man, time is money, I didn't get where I am today..." type people, but the reality is my job doesn't allow me the time to make 2 or 3 phonecalls a day to try and chase down the likes of Shark and R-Tech who don't return your calls and are too busy to answer emails. On the ONE occasion I have managed to speak with Shark, I found them to be very helpful but I don't want to have to make a second or third call to try and make an appointment to spend money. I also object to being made to feel that I shouldn't attempt to communicate by email (as per many responses from both company and previous customer) with a company who maintains a web presence with their own site and a couple of sponsor sections on relevant forums. So I went elsewhere. I found APR UK to be BUSY but very helpful - they didn't to see me in Milton Keynes, with the reason that they were tthe UK base for R&D, but I could go there if I insisted. Instead I was sent to my nearest dealer, who are C&R Enterprises in Nottingham. I was really pleased with C&R's service and will be going back to them as my new independent of choice - yes it's 30 miles away and yes I will have to plan my visits but I think I have found my new favourite garage.

Anyway - the map - I have no idea of numbers, but APR's headline figures on their site quote 252bhp and 300 lb ft - I think this is based on running the 104RON map and I doubt I will see that in my car, possibly with the ITG intake but I would think unlikely. The big benefit for me is that the maps are switchable between stock mode, 95 RON, 98 RON and Valet Mode (which sort of forces a limp mode) using the cruise control stalk, I can clear fault codes with the cruise stalk (although have VCDS anyway) and can also carry out throttle body alignment also with the cruise stalk. Furthermore the software comes with a security feature that disables the throttle and ignition and can only be deactivated with your own pre-set PIN. Nice!

APR offer free upgrades to stages 2 and 2+ but I assume you have to buy an uprated downpipe and APR's HPFP to benefit from the free upgrade. Not something I am immediately planning but I would be lying if I said I had not thought about it.

Not got any more immediate plans, keep thinking I should retro fit tunnel lights. I need to sort out the Evap and fuel pressure issues, I need a new electric window switch as a previous owner has clearly spilled pop all over it and I need to replace the wiper stalk as the Maxidot controls are sketchy at best and this has generated a fault code. I am pretty sure it's mechanical as it'll work if you push the button that bit harder.

[j0hn]

Not much to report since having the APR map added, which is very nice indeed and a huge improvement over what was there before.

I had been picking and choosing between sets of wheels and bought some Interlagos (wouldn't fit over a proposed BBK) and some Neuspeed (too wide, gutted). In the end I settled for some Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 from courtesy of Rob at W8 - well not courteously sadly, he still made me pay for them. I wanted something I knew would go over the BBK when it happens, wanted to get a set of wheels that were better made than reps or any other sub £350 wheels and that would suit the car. I couldn't make my mind up over silver or grey, didn't really think grey would suit (maybe they would) and settled on Hi-Power, which is silver over black. I thought these were spin forged, but they're not - the UK made TD wheels are low pressure cast (in the UK) rather than the gravity cast wheels that most other companies sell in this price bracket. I didn't want to spend >£1K as I would have probably gone and bought a second car and whilst I am not 100% on the looks just yet, they do seem to suit the car quite well. Some Citigo centre caps when I get around to it.

Untitled by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

[rob_e]

1.2's aren't my favorite wheel looks-wise, but you can't knock them for price/weight.

ref your APR swappable map - does that stay loaded on the ecu permanently then? so if you say, took your car back into the dealer for warranty work and you swapped back to the oe map presumably the performance maps would also be on there somewhere? ie the dealer could see that?

[j0hn]

Same here although the looks are definitely growing on me. They will look a bit better with flat Skoda centres too I think.

DSC_65431 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

No idea what the dealer can see to be honest, the maps are loaded to the ECU permanently and you can switch between the 4 maps that are loaded (those being stock, 95, 98 and valet mode) as you wish. I suppose if the dealer could tell that the car was mapped, the APR map would show up.

[j0hn]

Just a small picture

DSC_6590 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

[mark_eire]

Never been a fan of the 1.2's but the car looks great in the last picture, it's coming along nicely, keep it up!!

[j0hn]

Getting there Mark.

1.2s are not to everybody's taste and they've taken a bit of growing on me tbh but definitely getting there.

Got a job to do tomorrow all being well.

[Jonny5ive]

Looks well j0hn. The 1.2's do grow on you. I wasn't sure when I first put them on the fabia but when you've seen 'proper' racing cars running the same rims you gotta love 'em. Guess what's coming next for the Roomy

[j0hn]

They've definitely grown on me Barrie, I also like that they are a fair bit lighter when you're removing and refitting them!

Did something extra yesterday which needs pictures so I'm not saying anything else just yet .

I also notice that the flashing LED in the driver's door has stopped working and has a couple of fault codes related to low signal of the interior motion sensors.

I'm hoping that the LED has just become disconnected and that the sensor gubbins hasn't packed up.

[j0hn]

I had been toying with a big brake upgrade for a while and eventually decided I was going to go NQSBBK rather than S3, mainly due to the extra weight of the S3 discs and calipers. No during pics of the install as it is fairly straightforward, but you need these:

Untitled by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Some of these (before and after):

john's-porsche-calipers by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

john-calipers by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Along with a new set of pads and fitting kit, and Robert is your mother's brother.

DSC_6613 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

I can't get a definitive answer on the centre caps despite posting the question, so bought some universal jobs on ebay and added the Pastybadges I bought ages ago. They'll do for now anyway - the caps don't quite fit into the wheel bores that well, but they look OK.

Untitled by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Untitled by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

Brakes are immense. Put them on just over a week ago now but tonight was the first time I have really driven the car in anger and they are very powerful and progressive, a real worthwhile upgrade. I also swapped the fluid out for ATE Super Blue Race stuff, before I'd changed the fluid I stamped on these a couple of times and noticed a bit of fade, but no such thing with the new fluid.

Wheels are growing on me now.

DSC_6700 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6621 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr

DSC_6741 by jonnyguitar, on Flickr