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Rear Brake Disc/Pad Change

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Bit of heat (without melting the rubber parts!) and/or a good tap on the bolts does wonder if a bolt doesnt want to turn.

But heat or tap before applying too much force, otherwise the bolt might get worn inside.

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  • Ours (same car) were pretty straight forward apart from one of the calipers 'sticking' even with the rewind tool. Once that was overcome, all pretty straight forward. Didn't have any undue issues ge

  • chr1staylor
    chr1staylor

    No the m14 is quite an unusually large size! Anyway, I found these two guides very handy: Just for the rears: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=225698 Covering the fronts and rears:

  • Not sure which type of caliper you have on the rear, so here goes with the ones that were on my '07 PD 140 Octavia estate. If yours are different, let me know and I'll see if I can find the right ones

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  • Author

So plusgas, soak for 5 minutes, give it a tap with a driver or simiar and a hammer, then turn with a breaker bar or similar.

IIRC the calliper bolts are single use anyway.

Be really handy if you could put that up.

I'm not on a VRS, so the rear disks don't look too huge.

Annoyingly I've got an M4 M6 M8 M10 M12 spline set, but no M14.

What's holding the rear disk on, is it just a phillips head, a torx or another spline?

I've noticed VAG's love of XZN splines since buying the Vrs, had up to m12 in my draper bit set but have had to buy an m14,as a brake/pad change all round are on my 'to do' list. Had to get an m16 security spline too as I want to change the gearbox oil as well.

So plusgas, soak for 5 minutes, give it a tap with a driver or simiar and a hammer, then turn with a breaker bar or similar.

IIRC the calliper bolts are single use anyway.

Haynes make mention that they should be replaced (fronts too apparently). 'Overkill' perhaps? as I never came across this (having to change the caliper bolts) in all my years of Vauxhall ownership. :think:

Wonder if the 'new' bolts will be in the box with the pads. :think:

Re the carrier bolts, aside from the access issue* I found we had to really scrape out the bolt heads as there was 6 years' worth of road dirt in them, and then tap the spline head in to make sure it was fully-seated, as even fully-seated it doesn't go that far in.

Also, I've not read in any of the guides that they're single use, however I did get replacement bolts with my pads for re-attaching the calipers to the carriers. They gave me twice as many as I needed, strangely.

*to get sufficient access to torque the nearside pair up properly we had to fashion an extension set long enough to come out the other side of the car! Just a good job my Dad has several socket sets!

Re the carrier bolts, aside from the access issue* I found we had to really scrape out the bolt heads as there was 6 years' worth of road dirt in them, and then tap the spline head in to make sure it was fully-seated, as even fully-seated it doesn't go that far in.

Also, I've not read in any of the guides that they're single use, however I did get replacement bolts with my pads for re-attaching the calipers to the carriers. They gave me twice as many as I needed, strangely.

*to get sufficient access to torque the nearside pair up properly we had to fashion an extension set long enough to come out the other side of the car! Just a good job my Dad has several socket sets!

Sod the last bit. I'll just guestimate the 90nm and then do the 90 degree 'angular'.

Sod the last bit. I'll just guestimate the 90nm and then do the 90 degree 'angular'.

Aye, it was tempting to just get them "FT", as my old man would say.

  • Author

The pads come with new bolts, but the bi-hex items that hold the carrier to the hub, are indeed single use stretch bolts.

For less than £2, I'm not chancing it streching under breaking and coming away.

The pads come with new bolts, but the bi-hex items that hold the carrier to the hub, are indeed single use stretch bolts.

For less than £2, I'm not chancing it streching under breaking and coming away.

Got the part numbers? From what I can find the rear is no:16 but it says it's an M12x1,5x65 (pt . number N91006801), I thought they were meant to be M14's.

skodarearbrake.jpg

I know you're not doing the front but thought I would put it up anyway, the front is pt 13 and is M14x1,5x35 (pt. number N90948802)

skodafrontbrake.jpg

B

FYI another good write up on VW Vortex

http://forums.vwvort...ead.php?4234178

Bloke in post 24 sounds a prat. If you wind/push a caliper back in of course the bloody fluid is going to go back into the reservoir and raise the level. His argument that if the level rises you've got air in the system is absolute b****x.

Well went to Heritage Skoda in Yeovil today and their EPC (or whatever VAG call there Parts Catalogue) gave the same Pt. numbers as I mention above and also as above that the rear is down as an M12 on the system. he couldn't order the fronts as it wouldn't let him so he rang VW next door and they had the same trouble. Turned out the number has been superseded and the number hasn't been updated. So all ordered,along with a new (2nd) key and it came to a total of £118.00. I was expecting the key alone to come to more than that so while hardly a bargain it was better than I thought it would be.

The fact they had none of these bolts in stock got me to thinking about whether dealers change them as a matter of course. Heritage for instance I believe have Skoda, VW and Audi dealerships in Yeovil. You would expect given that that they would have a few cars in a week for brake disc changes so would keep a supply of these bolts handy. Or is that wishful thinking that would be that organised?

  • Author

The calliper to carrier bolts are included in the brake set, although I picked up some extra, as I wasn't sure they were in the set at the time, so might have some spares.

The carrier to hub bolts should be single use M14 spline from everything I can see.

I'll probably order some along with new discs before I get around to doing it.

They may well be M14's, all the threads where people have done them suggests that. Just down on the system as M12, wouldn't be the first time I've seen mistakes on a parts database.

Fairly sure on the 'rear' pic above that '16' is the carrier bolt. Nothing else listed down through is more than an m8 and as said it's on system as m12x1,5x 65 (I take it the 1,5 is the thread pitch and the 65 being the length of bolt)

skodarear2.jpg

  • Author

Might have to look at getting a new spray shield on one side, purely because it's rusted to heck.

If I do it'll be getting pre-ordered and then painted before it goes on.

What a ball ache this is going to turn into.

I've just ordered a can of Plusgas. I think it's going to be needed,as well as the blow torch. :rofl:

All you lot need now is a two poster fitted into your car park...lol jokes ;-)

  • Author

All you lot need now is a two poster fitted into your car park...lol jokes ;-)

You joke, but we've moved offices and have an old train shed we use for storage of boxes etc.

Myself and another guy were joking we could put a lift in there and I am starting to wonder how much they'd be.

The building has air lines everywhere and a compressor that looks like it just needs a service.

That plus about 300A coming into it too.

Hmm tempting...

Out of interest, I don't suppose anyone knows what's included in the pagid rear brake change kit?

Is it new screws/bolts for the carriers or just a windback tool?

Edited by cheezemonkhai

So I had a look at the rear pads today, and I think they'll need doing pretty soon.

Due to the rates put forward by many places to do this, I'm wondering what the steps are for this on an Octavia II (PD140).

I've got new pads and bolts, so it's just a case of needing a how to and anything to watch out for.

Also does anyone know the minimum thickness of the rear disks (and if that's a worn out or don't re-use below this value).

I've got a rewind tool, so that's that part covered, but are there any other "special" tools needed?

Ta

Did you get around to this job yet? If so how did it go? Any issues with seized bolts etc. Did you have to remove rear carrier to replace disks? Is yours a 2.0 TDi?

Many questions. No rush ;-)

Nick

From what I've read I think you can get away with not removing the carriers if you have the smaller rear discs. Got my bolts today and although the system says they are M12,they aren't they are what people who have done it say and M14. The front bolts are just normal bolts now too.

  • Author

I've not done it yet, but will be ordering new disks and stretch bolts to go along with the pads and will get onto the job.

  • Author

I've just been to TPS to pick up disks and they're claiming that part 16 isn't in stock and that they don't keep them as they don't get changed by anyone.

They sell lots of disks, but don't sell any of them.

Wondering if they actually are astretch bolt or not.

This is what I was wondering in post 36,whether the dealers even change them if they don't keep any in stock.

  • Author

Well the online doesn't say they are stretch (same site as in your pics).

Bearing in mind TPS, the dealers dealer doesn't stock them, it seem like they don't.

Oh well I guess I'll see what's what and get on with it then.

For the sake of a couple of quid its not going to hurt to change them. Here's a pic of one.

rearcalbolt.jpg

The fronts ( I know you're not doing the front) aren't even spline bolts anymore.

frontcalbolt.jpg

What I don't really understand is why the front which does more braking (what is the front /rear split on the Octavia?)just has a Nm torque (190) but the rear has Nm (90) and then angular torque too (90 degrees). Which I guess takes it quite a bit past 190Nm over all.

don't think the dealers change the rear bolts as I had to order the bolts on special back order request and it took 3 weeks for them to arrive

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