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Trouble Starting


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Recently my VRS has become a little harder to start. Taking longer to turn over before firing up, It has only once failed to start however..

Once driving it performs perfectly fine.

Twice the car died soon after starting and was hard to start afterwards.

Two other times it started off a cylinder, but soon rectified itself, making me think the plugs required a change.

It doesn't seem to always be from cold or hot starts either. Sometimes it fires correctly.

I was initially getting a flashing glow plug light and a solid EML light on the dash but the car drove fine after fighting with it to start.

I had an error for the following:

Cam Sensor

Crank Sensor

[sorry I dont have the VCDS Codes]

Cleared the codes and the crank sensor cleared also.

Drove the car for a few days the lights came back and it was the Cam Sensor again

Replaced that and the lights have stayed off but its still a bitch to start.

We checked the plugs and discovered they were OK. Not by removing them but by testing them for heating in the block. Mechanic done this. Battery was also tested and giving good voltage. Mechanic works for SEAT so is aware that a slightly dodgy battery can cause issues with the PD Engine.

Timing was also adjusted via the pullys to ensure that this wasn't the issue.

After alot of tinkering on Friday we have discovered a lot of play in the fly wheel by putting the car into 4th gear and rolling it back and forth.

There is a peep hole in the bell housing that should have a bung on it, but mine doesn't, this allowed us to see the right hand side [as you look at it] facing nearest the passenger wheel move with the car but the toothed part of the fly wheel taking a significant time to engage and turn.

We deduced because of this play I require a new flywheel as when the engine turns its not engaging the flywheel correctly and failing to start. So I ordered one from ECPs the other day and had it fitted last week.

The problem has unfortunately still not been fixed, although is starting eventually and once started is fine.

Can anyone provide their 2 pence as to what the issue may be?

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Gabsheene from where did you buy that sensor? You can buy parts from ECP but if you need a sensor go to Skoda and get a genuine one! Trust me! I had some issues with a sensor on my last Octavia MK1 and the problems just disappear after I bought a genuine one. And when this is about a camshaft position sensor which is expensive to change, get a genuine one and do the job properly! :) Sorry for any mistakes on the text! ;)

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  • 1 month later...

Gabsheene from where did you buy that sensor? You can buy parts from ECP but if you need a sensor go to Skoda and get a genuine one! Trust me! I had some issues with a sensor on my last Octavia MK1 and the problems just disappear after I bought a genuine one. And when this is about a camshaft position sensor which is expensive to change, get a genuine one and do the job properly! :) Sorry for any mistakes on the text! ;)

Only seeing this now.

Its from TPS all parts i use are genuine :)

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Is there a sensor for the flywheel and if so can it be checked?

How accurate is the glow plug test your mechanic did and does it do it when hot or cold or both,

also does it sometimes start fine?

Correct me if I'm. Wrong as in no mechanic, but the play in the flywheel would have been picked up by the crank sensor, which hasn't been changed. Flywheel has however.

He's a specialist SEAT mechanic so I'd presume the test on the plugs to be fine, car was warm when it was done.

2/10 it starts ok :)

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As well as the glow plugs themselves, the wiring loom can also develop faults.

I've read that the loom(s) going to the plugs and/or (can't be sure it's both) injectors can go on the fritz. Problem a) is that the loom heat cycles and can become brittle... Inspecting it might break it anyway if you unplug/replug it. So know how much it'll cost before inspecting it too severely. :)

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