Car Shakes at Idle

[spencer88]

See I am more thinking mine is the DMF as, in gear lifting the clutch to biting takes it away mostly.

Yours sounds like the alternator pulley or timing I would say.

[spencer88]

Mechanic's has text me

'Just got your DMF off, it was proper ******'

:D

[Phil-E]

Mechanic's has text me

'Just got your DMF off, it was proper ******'

:D

Haha. At least he's honest!

[spencer88]

He is, that is why i go to him

Glad it was messed up as well, shows it was that at fault.

[spencer88]

All sorted and no more shakes . Except the ones from the supepro dog mount bush but I expected that

[CarlizzleFoSho]

Just had mine fixed and looked at! Ended up being a seized radiator fan! So whenever it reached 90degrees it made the whole car shake.

Not sure if this could be the same on yours?

[Dean-]

Still on going bud. They have just recently replaced the wiring loom and then testing.

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[Fabio123]

Reconditioning the injectors noticebly reduced the problem on mine, (a diesel specialist confirmed the injectors needed a recon or replacing), will see how i get on.

[Jay29]

How did you know your injectors were messed up? Any warning lights etc...?

Edited 29 June, 2014 by Jay29

[JH3894]

Mine does this occasionally as well, but again, it goes away instantly as soon as as AC or back window heater goes on. Can't see it being down to DMF for us all

[MoggyTech]

Mine does this occasionally as well, but again, it goes away instantly as soon as as AC or back window heater goes on. Can't see it being down to DMF for us all

Shudder at idle after a cambelt change is very common, especially with the BLT engine. It runs very lean at idle to meet EU specs. Aircon or heated rear window loads the alternator, and to maintain idle revs the ECU ups the fuel ratio, and the shudder goes away. 

[Fabio123]

How did you know your injectors were messed up? Any warning lights etc...?

 

No warning lights, the Skoda dealer said they had seen the problem before, however just today the usual idling occured again, now waiting for the dealer to get back in touch with me, to see what to do next. 

[Dean-]

Good luck :/ I had to resort to a new car.

[AaronMountford1990]

You had a new car? Well that doesn't Inspire confidence as my one does that and it disappears when the clutch is pressed in everyone pointed me so far towards dmf and to replace with a single flywheel it's slightly clunkier to pull off but lasts longer and won't shake it appears a common problem with dmf units

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[AaronMountford1990]

Shudder at idle after a cambelt change is very common, especially with the BLT engine. It runs very lean at idle to meet EU specs. Aircon or heated rear window loads the alternator, and to maintain idle revs the ECU ups the fuel ratio, and the shudder goes away.

that sounds interesting and it would make sense given the sporty approach of the vrs!

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[JH3894]

You had a new car? Well that doesn't Inspire confidence as my one does that and it disappears when the clutch is pressed in everyone pointed me so far towards dmf and to replace with a single flywheel it's slightly clunkier to pull off but lasts longer and won't shake it appears a common problem with dmf units

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

If you replace the DMF with a SMF then you'll get a rattle at idle, just so you know!

[AaronMountford1990]

If you replace the DMF with a SMF then you'll get a rattle at idle, just so you know!

why is that? I thought the rattle is caused from the pins between the two plates wearing out and causing momentary friction between each other?

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[JH3894]

DMF's are used because they are better at damping out the rattle from the car compared to SMF's. So if you replace with a SMF you'll get a rattle. Have a search through the forum and you'll see loads of people talking about it who have replaced the flywheel with a single mass.

[Fabio123]

Good luck :/ I had to resort to a new car.

 

Did you replace it with a Fiesta ST2?

I really need a diesel, and thinking if i can get my money back, buy another Fabia vrs and hope i have better luck. 

[AaronMountford1990]

Did you replace it with a Fiesta ST2?

I really need a diesel, and thinking if i can get my money back, buy another Fabia vrs and hope i have better luck. 

 

Is this really that bad of a problem that people leave the VRS? Mine shakes on idle - start driving and it doesnt shake, it doesnt seem that much of an issue unless others are having the car shaking its wheels off o_0?

[Fabio123]

Is this really that bad of a problem that people leave the VRS? Mine shakes on idle - start driving and it doesnt shake, it doesnt seem that much of an issue unless others are having the car shaking its wheels off o_0?

 

It is for me, its a lot worse on longer journeys, ive had the AC and heater on once to reduce it whilst in traffic during a long journey, it felt that bad.

I've rung a few VAG specialist repairers, who have seen the problem, they all advised to get it looked at, advising it could cause problems, although they don't know what problems.

Edited 5 July, 2014 by Fabio123

[AaronMountford1990]

It is for me, its a lot worse on longer journeys, ive had the AC and heater on once to reduce it whilst in traffic during a long journey, it felt that bad.

I've rung a few VAG specialist repairers, who have seen the problem, they all advised to get it looked at, advising it could cause problems, although they don't know what problems.

Be worth checking the idle values to see if any cars are differing on start up and traffic idle, mine shakes but I take the point that the emissions value on the engine for tax reasons is reduced which could explain the shaking aka making the engine struggle more on idle by restricting fuel therefore reducing emissions, when I touch my accelerator the shaking stops completely u see the entire engine block stand still

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[Dean-]

I had 4 new injectors, that fixed the problem for a while however it started again. 

 

According to the diesel specialist I took it too, they said the BLT engine should run smooth - The specialist were Feather Diesel, Elland West Yorkshire.

[Fabio123]

Be worth checking the idle values to see if any cars are differing on start up and traffic idle, mine shakes but I take the point that the emissions value on the engine for tax reasons is reduced which could explain the shaking aka making the engine struggle more on idle by restricting fuel therefore reducing emissions, when I touch my accelerator the shaking stops completely u see the entire engine block stand still

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Thanks for that, i'll mention the idle values to them.

 

After having my injectors reconned, it was only slightly better for a week, however after that week passed, the idling has been milder since, still noticable.  It can now occur when the car has done a very short trip, it used to occur after a 15 mile plus journey, the car also now whistles from the back on idle too.

 

Spoke to the dealer, he advised Skoda issued them with a memo to advise of this issue with the BLT engines, and that altering timing settings will smoothen it out, (cant remember the settings mentioned), however advised they can never completely get rid of it, he also advised the shaking is not detrimental in any way, im waiting to get it booked in with them.

 

He thinks the whistling on idle could be down to filters needing to be changed.

 

Prioir to the above, I rang a few VAG specialists about this, they offered various solutions, a number of these have been mentioned on these threads:-

• Timing needs to be checked on the cam belt with software, it could be out slightly, (a few said this is a common fix).
• Update the software on the car as standard – Software talks to the car and re-adjust settings when parts are changed etc, the software updates are essential.
• DMF faulty, when no pressure on it, it can cause idle, (a few said this).
• Clean MAF sensor, (a few said this).
• When injectors are changed or worked with the wiring loom needs changing as a standard. 
• It could even be the injectors need changing and recon not worked.
• Injector changes also need to be re-programmed into the software.
• Check voltage on the alternator, if charging at a wrong rate can cause issues.
• Run the car on a machine to diagnose, and measure value blocks for each component and work backwards till you find problem with block checks.
• Change all filters, diesel fuel filters, even if they do not look dirty, they can be.
• Alternator pulley check.
• Cambelts and buckets may be on their way out.
• EGR coked/blocked.
• Timing pump issue.

[Dean-]

Thought I would update this just in case the new owner of the car is here looking for advice.

 

The cars Reg started with YB06 

Full leather inside

Rear parking sensors.

Black Magic Colour.

 

If this sounds like your car unfortunately you have purchased my old car. Do get in touch, even with all the problems I still miss her