Hi.

I've had my 05 VRS for over 6 months now and still not had a day without something not quiet right on it.

There has been an ongoing problem with the car which I noticed the first day I bought it. After an hours running I was getting a significant loss in MPG and the car was seeming more sluggish and there was no warning lights registering on dash.

After some research on posts on here thought it may be something to with either EGR, MAF or MAP sensors.

So having replaced EGR, MAF & MAP sensors. Had to replace pads all round about a month ago as brakes sticking on front right & back left. Regreased caliper just in case sticking. Brakes were still sticking on discs heating upto 140? compared to 45-50? on the ones that weren't. Also getting intermitant loss of power and mpg and juddering through steering even worse under slowing. Took the car to have remap taken off, to rule out any possibility it may be caused by that, so running on Factory setting.

Mechanic took out the ABS fuse (No.7 under battery cover) to see if either ABS related or caliper/master cylinder. For the 4 days without fuse, obviously got ABS/Brake warning light but the car seemed to be running fine, no sticking brakes or unexplained loss in performance or consumption. Had fuse put back in and faults reset and problems have reoccured, so thinking its definitely ABS pump related unforunately.

I suggest tried running the car for a few days with out fuse 7 (under battery cover) and see if there is any difference, just to make sure it was definitely ABS related. Well after a couple of days without ABS the problem has reoccured, and has progressively got worse. So ruled out ABS pump & sensors as problem occurs when its disconnected. If you pull over or upto a junction and stop, then release the brake pedal the brakes invariable free up again until you start dabbing the brake pedal again

Just had the car back at the mechanics, new master cyclinder fitted, new pads all round, new rear discs, callipers checked & regreased, brake lines & fluid flushed, changed & re-bled.

2 mins after picking car up all 4 brakes clamping on now, pulled over and held down brake pedal to floor, but wouldn't release. Got home an tested with both the ABS fuse in and out and brakes not releasing on either. Any ideas as car is sat on drive like a beached whale.

Skoda Fabia VRS, 05

Could air have got into the ABS unit whilst they were changing, flushing and bleeding everything. If it has then you need to go through the proper process to bleed the ABS unit using VCDS or dealer kit.

I'm not sure, but worth checking every possibility, thanks.

Had same issue :( replaced discs, pads, seals, master cylinder and 1 servo, still having the issue but less of a problem now I'm hoping that the garage that done the work are just rubbish and its just a result of the brakes not being bled proper.

Please keep this thread updated with any info

Suggest you get the codes from the ecu

SN

Suggest you get the codes from the ecu

SN

If its a hydraulic problem there will be no faults....

If the power loss isn't to do with the binding brakes, it could be coolant temp sensor

It will be the seals between the piston and the caliper body........these go hard with age and heat and do fail and do not allow the piston to retract when you come of the pedal.......also is it intermitant..............fiddly job to do (mainly refitting the piston dustskirts) as it takes time.............new brake fluild is required...........seals and dust skirts for the whole car (back and front) cost me less than £35 from dealers..........but it took me a whole day to do as the pistons required 4000grit wet and dry to polish of the burnt on old seals/muck............

Update. The car has been with a VAG specialist for the past couple of days, so they could check everything on VAGCOM, better to get a second opinion.

There saying everything is pointing to servo, checked everything else and are working how they should be. The mechanic that fitted master cylinder has spoke to a main dealer and they've had a couple of cars with a similar problem and has been a faulty pedal box.

I don't think there is a definitive answer of what is the cause, looks like it could be a culmination of things. Will keep you posted

It will be the seals between the piston and the caliper body........these go hard with age and heat and do fail and do not allow the piston to retract when you come of the pedal.......also is it intermitant..............fiddly job to do (mainly refitting the piston dustskirts) as it takes time.............new brake fluild is required...........seals and dust skirts for the whole car (back and front) cost me less than £35 from dealers..........but it took me a whole day to do as the pistons required 4000grit wet and dry to polish of the burnt on old seals/muck............

Done that still got the problem....

Update. The car has been with a VAG specialist for the past couple of days, so they could check everything on VAGCOM, better to get a second opinion.

There saying everything is pointing to servo, checked everything else and are working how they should be. The mechanic that fitted master cylinder has spoke to a main dealer and they've had a couple of cars with a similar problem and has been a faulty pedal box.

I don't think there is a definitive answer of what is the cause, looks like it could be a culmination of things. Will keep you posted

There are 2 servos and one of mine was replaced and I still have the problem so I don't know wether its worth getting both done at once.??

From what I have searched it seems that the binding on the n/s/f and o/s/r or visa versa indicates a servo problem?

After 3 years on this forum I haven't heard of anyone with a faulty pedal box?

here are a couple of threads on the matter

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/210119-brake-servo-problem/

http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic113057.aspx

Hope you get it sorted as there are few others out there with this problem and would be nice to get an answer

Thanks for keeping the thread updated also

A vacuum leak could give you problems with the servo, though I would have thought this would only occur with the engine running.

Though I don't know how the servo system works specifically... My understanding is basically the servo holds a vacuum that when braking, is applied to the master cylinder to reduce braking effort. Having had a servo "go" in the most inappropriate of circumstances (1980s car...), symptom of a faulty servo or vacuum system would be MUCH greater pressure on the brake pedal to slow down.

Brakes binding issues IMO would usually be the master cylinder not releasing properly or something mechanical at the pedal end of things not allowing the brakes to come fully off. Could be as simple as a return spring or something bent or cracked.

Hi All

Just thought I'd post a progress report. I got the car back last weekend from the garage. After a fair bit of diagnostics with VAGCOM & checking everything over, it was deduced the likely culprit was the Servo so was replaced. I've had the car back a week now and "touch wood" its running fine and average nearly 50mpg (450 miles) out of the first tank.

Whether or not this was the initial culprit or a series of factors probably never know, just thankful it seems to be resolved.

Thanks for the update. Hope you never have to post on this again, it sounded to have been a nightmare.

Thanks also for updating many others never bother

Figured it was a servo issue so I still have one to replace :(

If you have more problems (fingers crossed you don't) please let us know.

Came across this thread today.  I've been having similar problems and my garage is basically giving up. I'd started this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377555-rear-brake-overheat-after-disc-pad-and-caliper-replaced/ but wondered if you guys had any update or ideas.

 

The overheating corner has had new pads, on a new disc, initially on a cleaned up caliper. We then put a new caliper.  Then we tried a different brand of pads.

I don't know if the wheel was getting hot before we started. It just failed an MOT so we did the pads and discs all round and then got the burning smell from one corner.

Driving me loopy!  Garage is suggesting ABS pump as a (£1000+ ) possibility.  They hadn't mentioned the servo or master cylinder.  

 

Any help much appreciated.

Hi fellows,

 

Recently, I'm having almost the same problem as Simon in the first posting, only with exception, that both front brakes clamps to me. Please, give me some advices, because I will go crazy with this mystique...

 

I drive Skoda Fabia mkI 2002 sdi 47 kw. I gave my car to service for rear brake drums, rear brake pads, rear brake cylinders change (no front brakes serviced), and right after that I experienced strange problem...after a short driving (around 10-15 minutes) my front brakes clamps, front discs and wheels becomes very hot, the car lose power because of front wheels clamping. Only helps, if I press hardly the brakes, then front brakes unfreezes again for 10-15 minutes, and so on...

 

First, I regreased front callipers (cylinders, guiding sleeves), to exclude them from malfunction - the problem persisted...

Then I fought something is wrong with the bleeding (including ABS), so I bleeded the brakes and ABS (with the VAGCOM) - the problem persisted...

Further I changes Master Cylinder, again bleeded brakes and ABS - problem persisted. To notice - my old MC was leaking to the servo booster a little, but I don't know how much DOT4 leaked to it...

Next, I changed ABS pump, bleeded everything again - problem persisted...

Then, just in case, I checked vacuum leaking with the smoke, but no leaking was found. 

 

At the moment, only servo booster left for change, but I'm afraid it won't help...maybe servo booster pushing rod is sticking or smf like this?

 

1. What would be you recommendations? What would be worth to check/change more?

2. Does servo mechanism/brake pedal has any adjustable mechanism for the pedal pressure/servo pushing rod motion? I tried to check, but didn't notice anything. If yes, could be this the reason, that pedal/pushing rod do not have free motion after rear braking pads change, so DOT4 can’t expand and gives a pressure to brakes?

 

Thank you for your foughts...

 

P.S. No fault codes founded with VAGCOM in ABS block or others blocks. 

3 hours ago, waidulis said:

Hi fellows,

 

Recently, I'm having almost the same problem as Simon in the first posting, only with exception, that both front brakes clamps to me. Please, give me some advices, because I will go crazy with this mystique...

 

I drive Skoda Fabia mkI 2002 sdi 47 kw. I gave my car to service for rear brake drums, rear brake pads, rear brake cylinders change (no front brakes serviced), and right after that I experienced strange problem...after a short driving (around 10-15 minutes) my front brakes clamps, front discs and wheels becomes very hot, the car lose power because of front wheels clamping. Only helps, if I press hardly the brakes, then front brakes unfreezes again for 10-15 minutes, and so on...

 

First, I regreased front callipers (cylinders, guiding sleeves), to exclude them from malfunction - the problem persisted...

Then I fought something is wrong with the bleeding (including ABS), so I bleeded the brakes and ABS (with the VAGCOM) - the problem persisted...

Further I changes Master Cylinder, again bleeded brakes and ABS - problem persisted. To notice - my old MC was leaking to the servo booster a little, but I don't know how much DOT4 leaked to it...

Next, I changed ABS pump, bleeded everything again - problem persisted...

Then, just in case, I checked vacuum leaking with the smoke, but no leaking was found. 

 

At the moment, only servo booster left for change, but I'm afraid it won't help...maybe servo booster pushing rod is sticking or smf like this?

 

1. What would be you recommendations? What would be worth to check/change more?

2. Does servo mechanism/brake pedal has any adjustable mechanism for the pedal pressure/servo pushing rod motion? I tried to check, but didn't notice anything. If yes, could be this the reason, that pedal/pushing rod do not have free motion after rear braking pads change, so DOT4 can’t expand and gives a pressure to brakes?

 

Thank you for your foughts...

 

P.S. No fault codes founded with VAGCOM in ABS block or others blocks. 

 

Disconnect the servo vacuum pipe to see if the problem goes away, the brakes will be harder but will still work, the servo only reduces the force needed to brake, it doesn't make the brakes stronger.

Hey guys, so I’ve recently had this issue. Front right and back left wheel getting hot, eventually sticking & boiling.

 

Only thing I’ve found recently, when they lock up, if I stop and pump the brake peddle it releases them.. Until another x amount of miles. 

 

I’ve changed 

 

callipers

dics

pads

flexi’s

fluid numerous times

3xABS pumps

 

i’m not at the point of trying either master or servo.

 

i want to try taking the vacuum pipe off the servo to try that, but I’m not 100% what pipe I’d be taking off. Any help?

17 minutes ago, VRSKJS said:

I’m not 100% what pipe I’d be taking off

There's only one pipe that goes to the servo, I think?

 

11 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

There's only one pipe that goes to the servo, I think?

 

I’ve tried pumping the brake when engine is off, stays hard then drops when I turn the engine on. Does this test the servo well enough to rule that out? 

On 26/07/2022 at 17:58, VRSKJS said:

Hey guys, so I’ve recently had this issue. Front right and back left wheel getting hot, eventually sticking & boiling.

 

Only thing I’ve found recently, when they lock up, if I stop and pump the brake peddle it releases them.. Until another x amount of miles. 

 

I’ve changed 

 

callipers

dics

pads

flexi’s

fluid numerous times

3xABS pumps

 

i’m not at the point of trying either master or servo.

 

i want to try taking the vacuum pipe off the servo to try that, but I’m not 100% what pipe I’d be taking off. Any help?

Hi guys, just thought I’d update this. I’ve now fixed it, it was the brake master cylinder. And also my door has decided it wants to work again now, so I’ve taken the door card off ready to change the lock when I have chance.

 

Cheers,

Kyle

On 01/08/2022 at 08:24, VRSKJS said:

Hi guys, just thought I’d update this. I’ve now fixed it, it was the brake master cylinder. And also my door has decided it wants to work again now, so I’ve taken the door card off ready to change the lock when I have chance.

 

Cheers,

Kyle

seen your solution to this issue, did removing the vac line help highlight this issue? I’m having a similar issue but wanting to diagnose the issue before throwing the money at a new master. Also did the master need coding in? Thanks!

8 hours ago, Aledross said:

Also did the master need coding in?

 

You'd have a job coding in something that is purely hydraulic 😛

On 09/08/2022 at 10:07, Aledross said:

seen your solution to this issue, did removing the vac line help highlight this issue? I’m having a similar issue but wanting to diagnose the issue before throwing the money at a new master. Also did the master need coding in? Thanks!

I didn’t try removing the vac line so can’t confirm that. And from what I know of no, master doesn’t need coding in. Only the ECU part of the ABS if replacing with another unit.