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False Boot Floor & Pioneer TS-WX77A Active Subwoofer Install


Furby138

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I've had some time over the last few days to finish this project that I started in the spring.

Inspired by Karl: http://www.briskoda....ew-sub-install/ , I got a Pioneer TS-WX77A for a good price and here's the result.

I was keen to retain access to the spare wheel and not make any irreversible changes to the car.

2012-12-27104438_zps7fef47c6.jpg

2012-12-27104454_zps35e80269.jpg

A cubby hole at the back for the stuff that usually rolls around in the boot.

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The whole lot lifts on gas struts to access the spare. I had to fold the edges of the boot carpet so they weren't trapped under the sides. The bottom of the sides were carpeted to protect the paintwork.

2012-12-27104548_zpsd35eeafd.jpg

I've had big subs in previous cars and in comparison this unit does very well and is a good compliment to the stock speakers.

I'm pleased with the result, but any comments or questions are welcome.

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Thanks for the positive comments.

Do you have any pics of the build through its stages? Is there a sub and amp in there or what?

The TS-WX777A is a space saving sub and amp combined: http://www.pioneer.e...X77A/media.html

I took plenty more photos. These show a little more detail:

2012-12-24201206cropped_zps19769cc9.jpg

Bottom view, mid build before doing the ventilation/ port holes

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Gas strut detail

The sub sits on ledges that were machined into the sides of the wooden framework. I had to use real timber for this because MDF wasn't strong enough.

The gas struts were 120N units and were a couple of quid each from ebay. They support it just fine but don't assist the lift much. I'd have gone for these 150N ones if I had known: http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1438.l2649

The carpet was also from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1438.l2649 Not a bad match for the original.

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Is that a retro Casio calculator watch you're wearing?

It's a "Wrist Remote Controller" that I've had for about 15 years.

The remote is used daily and I even had it programmed to unlock my old 306 at one point. (a convoluted process of teaching it from a Cambridge Audio universal remote) but interesting to demonstrate to the Peugeot dealer...

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I've had some time over the last few days to finish this project that I started in the spring.

Inspired by Karl: http://www.briskoda....ew-sub-install/ , I got a Pioneer TS-WX77A for a good price and here's the result.

Glade I inspired you, fair play thats a excellent job, puts my effort to shame. I can see you put a lot of time and effort in to it. Really good job well done. :thumbup:

I've had big subs in previous cars and in comparison this unit does very well and is a good compliment to the stock speakers.

I'm pleased with the result, but any comments or questions are welcome.

I agree with you entirely, complements the original speakers perfectly. Out of curiosity where did you mount/place the remote ? (mine is simply under the handbrake lever)

Are there enough holes at the side of the sub ?. One of the reasons I tried not to place anything in front of the sub port was to not restrict the sound output.

The only real issue I might have is how easy is it to remove completely, as I do a lot of camping and mine is frequently removed because I need the extra space.

Might try to fit some of those hinges that you have on the cubby hole lid to mine, (where did you source them from ?) looks just the job.

Keep up the good work.

Hopefully will see it in the flesh one day.

Karl :thumbup:

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Hi Karl, thanks for the comments.

At the moment the remote is tucked away between the sub and the back seat, both dials are both turned fully clockwise. I can't see anywhere obvious to put it so will try and manage without direct access to it for a while. The headunit (Pioneer AVH-3300BT) has subwoofer gain and crossover controls so adjustments can be made from there for the time being.

I tried the sub for a while before I built the enclosure and, although that was a while ago, I can't tell any difference now. It definitely works well so I'm not too worried about the port being restricted. The boot gets a bit wider towards the front so that provides a gap for the air to move. I determined the number/size of vent holes based on this gap and the actual port aperture. I will be keeping an eye on the sub to make sure it doesn't get too hot.

It's a bit of a pain to remove, but basically the sub slides out forwards, then the false floor can be removed but as you will understand the cables have to be disconnected mid way and there are a couple of hidden fasteners that keep the sub from sliding when tilted.

I don't plan on removing it too often though and hope there aren't any maintenance procedures where it will be in the way.

The hinges have worked out well, they were from ebay too. The listing I used has ended but these have the exact same title: http://goo.gl/0epzF These ones are both sprung (so shouldn't rattle as they are always under tension), they also open to 90 degrees (which some don't)

I am also tempted by some of your other mods, I may attempt the LED puddle lights in the front doors when I take the door cards off to isolate some rattles, that looks very professional.

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This looks really good mate, sadly, I can see a future pay cheque disappearing now :( Going to keep an eye on the second hand market though, really can't justify £250 for a brand new sub!

Just out on interest, how much weight would the enclosure take? Main reason, when I gig and such, my concern would be the weight of my bass amp cabs (around 30kg each). The flat load floor is really tempting though!

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This looks really good mate, sadly, I can see a future pay cheque disappearing now :( Going to keep an eye on the second hand market though, really can't justify £250 for a brand new sub!

Just out on interest, how much weight would the enclosure take? Main reason, when I gig and such, my concern would be the weight of my bass amp cabs (around 30kg each). The flat load floor is really tempting though!

You might be lucky to pick one up for half that if you are willing to buy second hand like I did. But, make sure you get the remote and wiring loom.

As for the strength, the TS-WX77A itself is well built and the rear half of the false floor is rock solid too, there are four vertical pieces of MDF that transfer the load directly to the boot floor. The opening flap sits on a rebate all round so is strong too.

There is a currently a small gap below the sub so any load placed in the middle at the front will rely on the ledges that the sub sits on.

My job today is to make some 8mm thick MDF spacers that I can Velcro to the bottom of the sub to take any load placed on it -Photos to follow later!

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Photos as promised:

I made three MDF spacers to go under the TS-WX77A, the left one was from 6mm MDF, and the other two were 10mm. One had to be thinner to allow for the shape of the sub.

2012-12-31121855_zps2183964a.jpg

The holes are to reduce weight, a bit pointless considering the weight of the whole build but I had plenty of time...

In hindsight, there was potential to reduce the weight of the false floor in a few places.

2012-12-31144910_zps39945c08.jpg

When I can find some Velcro, the spacers will be attached to the bottom of the sub. but you get the idea for now.

Before I started the whole project, I modelled it in Google SketchUp:

FabiaFaslseFloorSketchup_zps793ce33f.jpg

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It definitely looks good, if I end up doing it I'd be looking at going for ply or something lighter. Not really an MDF fan, worked with it before and it's heavy and not really that friendly to be around the dust of when cutting it. Going to see how I get on with my new hu first :)

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