Towbar coding

[RoryRover]

Hello All

I have just aquired my yeti (went for test drive and brought the demonstrator !) and will shortly be fitting a towbar. I have done this myself on a few cars but I wonder if anyone can help me with two bits of information -

1) Is there any way to tell from the vehicle code if it has towbar prep already fitted. I am assuming not - but I would hate to buy the dedicated electrical kit assuming it is not and then find the plugs lurking behind the rear pannel when I remove it !

2) Is the coding required after fitting the towbar something I can find a forum member with VCDS to do for me or does it have to be done by a dealer ?

Many thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

RoryRover

2012 Yeti SE+ 140 Tdi

(My other car is a much loved but aging Rover 75 tourer CDTi)

[Gizmo]

Welcome Rory

1/ If you look in the service book or on the boot floor you will find the options stickers, here will be the code for towbar prep (cant help with what the code is mind)

2/ Yes the car will need to be coded with VCDS.

[Arkaig]

Hi RoryRover & welcome

Vehicle data is given in coded form on a stuck-on label in the Service Schedule booklet. The code for trailer hitch preparation is AHV - if your label has that on it, then the factory-fit option has been supplied.

Also, the rear bumper would also have a detachable panel on the underside.

If your vehicle has the towbar prep, then the Skoda part for the electrics is EEA630002E4; if not, then you require EEA630101E4.

The Skoda part no for the detachable towbar is EEA630001, or for the fixed bar EEA639001.

The coding after fitting is better done by someone with VCDS - see this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/#entry3091029

[Brijo]

....The code for trailer hitch preparation is AHV ...

With respect, http://igorweb.org/e...ec/default.aspx doesn't recognise that code. 'Trailer hitch preparation', which Annie has, is listed as 1D7.

[yetiscot]

As Arkaig says the quickest way to tell if you have towbar prep is to check under the rear bumper where there will be a removable plate--it needs a good tug to get it off though.

Please see the excellent pinned post at the top of the forum by Joel Shoemark which gives a detailed account of fitting a towbar to a SM with towbar prep

Edited 3 February, 2013 by yetiscot

[RoryRover]

Neither AHV or 1D7 appears in the listing and there is definately no removable panel in the lower part of the rear bumper - so it looks like no towbar prep.

At least I know what to order now !

Many thanks for the replies

[Brijo]

With respect, http://igorweb.org/e...ec/default.aspx doesn't recognise that code. 'Trailer hitch preparation', which Annie has, is listed as 1D7.

Glad RoryRover has it sorted. Just for the record, and for possible interest:

[andyml]

Can someone tell me exactly what "towbar coding" is and why it's necessary? I just assumed all I needed was an electrical hook up and the 'bar - thanks in advance. :-)

[Llanigraham]

Tow bar coding enables:

bulb failure system to be extended to trailer bulbs.

uses the bulb failure system to show when a rear flasher isn't working on the trailer, as required by law.

allows the flasher ECU to accept the additional load of the trailer flashers, without changing the flasher unit as normally required.

switches off the car rear fog lights when the trailer is plugged in.

switches off the rear parking sensors when the trailer is plugged in.

extends the alarm system to sound if the trailer is unplugged when the alarm is set on the car.

enables the in-car display to show the trailer when reverse is selected.

activates a trailer stability programme in addition to the car one, when the trailer is plugged in.

A very good system!

Additionally if you have the extra caravan items for fridge and battery charging it senses when the alternator is not charging and disconnects the two circuits until there is a charge available.

[andyml]

Many thanks for such a comprehensive reply Llanigraham. I had no idea there was so much to it. I'm learning so much from this forum. :-)

[trundlenut]

I'm not sure if all towbars are the same but the ones I have seen come with a controller that needs to be programmed as well as changing the settings in the CAN gateway. I tried to do one for a member on here but we didn't have the security code for the new controller so that made things difficult and he had to go back to the installer.

To be fair the installers were going to program the controller but they an IT problem the day they fitted it.

[RoryRover]

Oh Boy - why do things have to be so complicated.

I had a look on the website regarding the EEA630101E4 wiring kit only to notice it is unsuitable if you want to tow a caravan - which is I presume what the vast majority of us want to do if we fit a tow bar. Apparently the kit does not include the two live feeds (one ignition switched for the 12v fridge and one permanent for the interior lighting).

After a lot of googling I found another kit ZGB3T2055204 (see http://www.manualslib.com/manual/375296/Skoda-Yeti-Brochure.html?page=17 ) which apparently does provide full functionality, but I then find on another site that I need to buy another suplementary kit ZGB000055200W to get the full functionality. On another site the ZGB000055200W kit is listed as having a conversion from one 13 pin socket (which is what I want) to two 7 pin sockets (which is not).

None of these sites include a photo of what is included in the kit so I cannot even work out what I need from the photos ! I am totally and thoroughly confused. Can anyone offer me a lifeline and tell me what I need to buy to achieve a 13 pin socket on the back of the Yeti suitable to plug my caravan into ?

[Brijo]

Sorry, no can do. In my case, I simply specified factory towbar prep, detachable towbar and full caravan electrics and agreed the prices quoted by the dealer. It was entirely up to the dealer to deliver.

[Llanigraham]

Oh Boy - why do things have to be so complicated.

I had a look on the website regarding the EEA630101E4 wiring kit only to notice it is unsuitable if you want to tow a caravan - which is I presume what the vast majority of us want to do if we fit a tow bar. Apparently the kit does not include the two live feeds (one ignition switched for the 12v fridge and one permanent for the interior lighting).

It is not UNSUITABLE. That kit provides all the wiring for the trailer lighting. For the other 2 feeds you need a seperate loom. As it is only the UK market that use these feeds that is why it is a seperate item. Europe don't bother, and to be honest I see no point either. It hardly powers the fridge, other than to keep the temperature constant, and provides very little to recharge the battery. I gave up with it years ago!

After a lot of googling I found another kit ZGB3T2055204 (see http://www.manualsli...re.html?page=17 ) which apparently does provide full functionality, but I then find on another site that I need to buy another suplementary kit ZGB000055200W to get the full functionality. On another site the ZGB000055200W kit is listed as having a conversion from one 13 pin socket (which is what I want) to two 7 pin sockets (which is not).

None of these sites include a photo of what is included in the kit so I cannot even work out what I need from the photos ! I am totally and thoroughly confused. Can anyone offer me a lifeline and tell me what I need to buy to achieve a 13 pin socket on the back of the Yeti suitable to plug my caravan into ?

There is no one kit that will provide you with the equivalent of the 12N and 12S system in one "bite". As said the 12S side will have to be an additional loom. Getting a photo is going to be difficult as everything is hidden behind the trim panel.

I presume you have seen the locked thread at the top of the page?

[fuzzybunny]

Hi Rory, unless you have tow bar prep which includes precoding and single electrics to the rear I wouldnt try and do it yourself.

You will just end up demented!

Ring round various fitters and get some quotes first (unless you really are determined!)

FB

[RoryRover]

Hi Briskodian

I take your point - but I have fitted 13 pin wiring to other cars with the full functionality, so I would have hoped Skoda would want to make it as easy as possible for me to do so using one of thier products.

The photo I metioned would be of the contents of the kit not the fitted system - I would be able to work out the rest from there.

I have just spoken to Witter (I always use Witter towbars) and they have a dedicated (and codable) 13 pin kit with full functionality for the Yeti so I will probably now buy that. Its a shame - I would have prefered to use Skoda's own kit if I could.

Edited 6 February, 2013 by RoryRover

[Llanigraham]

Rory,

Have you looked at this thread:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/264086-yeti-tow-bar/

There are photos of the Skoda kit in there.

Remember that whatever kit you use you are still going to have to have the car reprogrammed, but someone with VCDS can do that for you.

[RoryRover]

Hi

Yes I have had a look at that post - it is a really brilliant how to which will be very useful. What I need though is to see what is in the ZGB3T2055204 and ZGB000055200W kits.

I suspect one is the main wiring loom and the second is the secondary loom - which would be fine and fits in with what you suggest about a secondary loom. Trouble is I read elswhere that the secondary kit is to convert 13 pin electrics to twin 7 pin which is not the same thing at all. All would be obvious in a photo of the kit, but even the sites selling them do not have one.

Thanks for your advice.

Edited 6 February, 2013 by RoryRover

[Llanigraham]

Checked your link, which is the accessories catalogue.

Do you have tow bar prep?

If yes, then the basic kit for just the trailer lights is 002E4.

If no, then you need 0101E4

To give the additional loom for fridge and charge, you need 2GB3T2055294 (GB gives a hint!!)

If you don't want a 13 pin socket but the 12N and 12S then you also have to buy 55200W. (It is cheaper to buy a 13 to 2x7 converter from Towsure than buying this kit!)

Hope that helps, however I will check my paperwork when I get home later.

[Llanigraham]

The "work's" computer system actually managed to print out that page, and as far as I can tell the above is correct.

[a65rocket]

I am fitting the Wesfalia kit at the moment with the extra Caravan charging circuit with a 13pin.

The control box is a Wesfalia design so I'm hoping it is recognised by the VCDS.

The problem I'm stuck on is trying to route the wires through the bulkhead into the engine bay, the installation manual shows some blanking grommets to remove, but I cannot find them.

Also, I need / want to disconnect the battery before connecting to the fuse board, but I don't have the radio code for the Bolero, speaking to my dealer, they don't give out the code in the handbook, as if the car is broken into to steal the radio, the thief also steal the book from the glove box. When I expressed my surprise at this, and requested the code, they stated that I would have to bring in the car to be scanned for the code.

Reading in ElsaWin, the Bolero stores its own code internally, and does not mind if the power is lost, my dealer said that the radio would remember it's code for only a 1 hour period.

Has anyone completed their own FULL Westfalia wiring installation ?

[Great Yeti]

Also, I need / want to disconnect the battery before connecting to the fuse board, but I don't have the radio code for the Bolero, speaking to my dealer, they don't give out the code in the handbook, as if the car is broken into to steal the radio, the thief also steal the book from the glove box. When I expressed my surprise at this, and requested the code, they stated that I would have to bring in the car to be scanned for the code.

Reading in ElsaWin, the Bolero stores its own code internally, and does not mind if the power is lost, my dealer said that the radio would remember it's code for only a 1 hour period.

Hi a65rocket.

I'm afraid I cannot help with the Wesfalia information but as to the Bolero Radio:

The radio "code" is stored in the dashboard electronics. Whenever the radio needs to have the code imputed, say after the battery being disconnected, as you need to do. It interrogates the dashboard and retrieves it. The only way the dealer can discover the code for you is by connecting his diagnostic tool and interrogating the system.

If a radio is changed for any reason, this is where the dealer alters the code, as each radio does have its own code. I asked my supplying dealer to give me the code and this information [above] is what was explained by their auto electrician. He happily gave me the code "Just in case" I ever needed to know it as it can be entered manually if required for any reason. The only reason that I can think of was if I should decide to sell it.

Anyway, I hope this helps you make sense of one of your queries...............Tony

[Great Yeti]

I forgot to mention that the dashboard stores the information without a time limit - so you can happily disconnect the battery for as long as you like.

Regards...........Tony

[a65rocket]

Cheers Tony, that's what I thought about the radio code after reading the ElsaWin manual.

[bargee1759]

I fitted the Westfalia loom & Tony is correct, the Bolero just works as normal when reconnected. Don't be alarmed if after you reconnect everything, you have a wall of warning lights on the dash lit up. I had ESP, ABS, power steering, amongst others that I can't remember now, so in a bit of a panic I disconnected all the looms from the controller in the boot again in case I'd done something wrong, but it was still the same. So I reconnected it, then for some reason, decided to drive the car to see whether the power steering at least was still working, which it was, & as soon as I got above about 5mph, they all extinguished & normality restored, I was very relieved!!!! Everything is fine, everything works. I got BVR in Longton to do the reprogramming (great bunch of guys, they come highly recommended) Mind you, although I also bought the extra charging loom too, I haven't used it as I don't need it with my mum's knackered old caravan, & I haven't sorted out where to connect the "discharge protected live" to yet. As has been mentioned before, the Westfalia main loom is dedicated to the Yeti & is very good & if you install it methodically, no problem, but it's quite a lengthy job. The additional charging loom isn't dedicated though, it's just a generic (probably VAG) fitting loom. The grommet is quite high up behind the glove box above where the bulkhead goes vertical & has two ready-made pigtails that you can puncture & push the cables through. I hope this info is useful & prevents someone else having warning light induced heart failure!