Today I have done around 40km, 20 and after an hour again 20. I drove back home with no problem, but than me and my dad moved the cars at home, after a few mins when it was parked and when I powered it up, the rpm went from 1000 slowly to zero. lol.

What's wrong with this dumb felicia ?

Can you exchange the ECU alone at home or is it compulsory to take it to a Skoda dealer ?

ECUs year 97 and 96 are not the same ? I tried to change them an hour ao, but couldn't. The 96 has two plastic pieces in the edges and I couldn't close the connector :/

There are 2 types of ECU for 1.6 MPI:

- code 032 906 030 AF for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 AJ for vehicles with immobilizer

I have 032 609 030 M

And the other one I got is 032 906 030 L, so that's not true

Today I went to an auto electrictian to asks for some tips from his point of view and he told me that only 2 things could go wrong, ignition coil and immobiliser and he was almost sure, that the problem is with the ignition coil. So I went to a local store and bought one for 60€, changed it already too. I hope that the problem was really in this, else the money went in nothing again :/

I have 032 609 030 M

And the other one I got is 032 906 030 L, so that's not true

On further investigation, it looks there are 2 more types of ECUs for 1.6 MPI, so 4 types in total. That doesn't mean what I told you is not true. At least I took the time to check for you what you asked...

1995-1997 (6U1)

- code 032 906 030 L for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 M for vehicles with immobilizer

1998-2001 (6U2) - these are the same one I previously told you about

- code 032 906 030 AF for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 AJ for vehicles with immobilizer

My previous information is from ETKA catalog. They only mention 2 types of ECU from 1994 on. See proof below.

I misstyped what I have too, I meant 906 of course. So that L is without immobiliser, makes sense, thanks. The making year of my car is 97.

I hope that the problem was resolved now with the new ignition coil, else, how much do the ecu and immobiliser cost ?

http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=Skoda+Felicia+032906030&_sacat=0&_odkw=Skoda+Felicia+Motorsteuergeraet+032906030+AEE&_osacat=0

So there around 50€ ecu only.

When I fitted the afh had a random, low rev, misfire that caused the engine to die but start straight away after.

It was caused by the coil ht lead shorting to earth at the coil top. Couldn`t find it till I saw it happen. Massive sparks. Fresh, correct lead cured it - expensive new and no aftermarket unless you buy the set- had a spare from the conversion- sorted in a minute.

When I fitted the afh had a random, low rev, misfire that caused the engine to die but start straight away after.

It was caused by the coil ht lead shorting to earth at the coil top. Couldn`t find it till I saw it happen. Massive sparks. Fresh, correct lead cured it - expensive new and no aftermarket unless you buy the set- had a spare from the conversion- sorted in a minute.

What is an "afh" and "ht lead" ?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=HT+lead

AFH - Engine code for VAG engine apropo.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=HT+lead

AFH - Engine code for VAG engine apropo.

Aha, I see, thanks. So AFH is an 1.4 16V engine from another car. So if I understood right, he had a problem with the ignition coil cable that goes to the distributor and he changed that and resolved it ?

Haha, yeah that's it mate. Didn't mean to sound like a knobhead there by the way

No problem, I didn't knew some of this words in english

You know what's the fun part in all of this..I have all the spare cables of the distributor, except that one

So, I hoped that the problem will be resolved with the new ignition coil but I think it wasn't :/

Now I don't know what to do next, get new ht leads ? But I don't want to pay 50€ only for the one I need :S

Do you have spark at spark plugs after engine stalls and try to start the engine? Buy a 3€ spark tester and be prepared to check next time. You need to decide it's ignition, fuel, timing or a combination related.

in 98% of the cases the car starts right away, so I think I can't check that right. I think it's electric related more than fuel of timing. If it's timing or fuel, wouldn't I have problems with the car all the time ? Just my opinion (I'm not a mechanic)

You keep forgetting your car is computer controlled and sensors related. Both ECU and sensors can sometimes behave erratic, making ECU issue foul commands such as: cut fuel, rpm hunting, bad timing, etc. Felicia's computer is not very smart, we're talking year 2000 technology.

That's why I chose to drive a Felicia without computer, with carburetor. The engine will always run how I decide to run by adjusting a screw or rotating a device, and if something goes wrong it is very easy to find why and to repair it. Car computers should make life easier, but when they get 'ill' or sensors get bad, you then have a royal PITA, sometimes ending on the side of the road scratching your head...

So anything is possible. Try finding at least if it's heat, moisture or vibration related.

Edited 21 March, 201313 yr by adurer

Yeah, I think that too.

Do this cables fit 1.6 AEE engine ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121051013238

I think this are the same:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111021953965

but the 1.6 engine is not listed here..

and why so much difference in price ?

I would buy a TESLA T642C set. You can't get more original than that.

Yeah, but their not on ebay :/

I went to an autoeletrictian and he cleaned the injectors and replaced the heat sensor again, because he told me that it displayed incorrect values. Yesterday we checked the throttle body position and we think it's too high (from 1 to 7 says the vag-com). And what does condition 00000001 (on picture) and condition 00010000 mean ?

Conditions refer to engine operating state.

00000001 means 'coolant temp. below 80 deg. C'

00010000 means 'idling switch open'

As a general impression, your throttle body is not set properly. You may have an issue with throttle cable (too tight) or TPS is bad.

Conditions refer to engine operating state.

00000001 means 'coolant temp. below 80 deg. C'

00010000 means 'idling switch open'

As a general impression, your throttle body is not set properly. You may have an issue with throttle cable (too tight) or TPS is bad.

Is it ok, that when you drive it says "idling switch open" ?

Throttle cable is not too tight, it's loose.

TPS- throttle position sensor ? This is the second throttle body, it has the same low rpm than the previous one, but I have not checked the throttle angle on the first one.

Is there any other possibility ?

And why so high injection time ?