The idle microswitch contacts inside TB are closed when engine runs at idle, and open the rest of the time.

About throttle cable: there is a procedure to test the right mechanical tension using VAG-COM. Do you want me to describe it? Perhaps this is what you missed. If cable is not correctly adjusted, TB reset procedure may fail or may store invalid data.

Based on your photo, I'd say the engine is warming up and ECU is running in 'open loop' using adjustment data stored in a table by Skoda. It is normal to have a higher rpm and to run richer till condition 00000000 is met. Only then you can make reliable readings with VAG-COM.

Yes, TPS= throttle position sensor.

Edited 18 June, 201313 yr by adurer

Yeah, you can describe this procedure and I will check, thanks. I think this photo was taken with a little bit of gas, with no gas the throttle angle is a bit lower, lik 12-15 (still to much). Is it normal that in vag-com the coolant temp. and air temp. are exchanged ?

Is it normal that in vag-com the coolant temp. and air temp. are exchanged ?

I've heard it can happen.

Throttle cable adjustment

Select Engine->Basix Setting then enter 00 in Group field and click Go!.

- Depress accelerator pedal fully and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. Read off number shown in display field 8.

Specification: 210... 217

- If the specification is not achieved, adjust throttle cable and repeat procedure above.

Thanks, will try tomorrow, this is done with car off right ?

Yes. Just key on.

The value was 185, now after the fix it is 211-212. I reset the TB again, the throttle angle is still 15 and rpm 670, didn't do a test drive though.

- code 032 906 030 AF for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 AJ for vehicles with immobilizer

I just wanted to chip in some (relevant?) information.

I installed a AF ECU, in my car that previously had a AG (I think this is simmilar to AJ?), allthough all the pins are in the right locations, some plastic will prevent you from inserting it.

However, the corners of the plastic on the ECU-connector, can be removed with a sharp knife.

I just wanted to chip in some (relevant?) information.

I installed a AF ECU, in my car that previously had a AG (I think this is simmilar to AJ?), allthough all the pins are in the right locations, some plastic will prevent you from inserting it.

However, the corners of the plastic on the ECU-connector, can be removed with a sharp knife.

Yeah, I have one without immobiliser too, and I couldn't replace it, because it had those plastic pins. Why you replaced the ECU, which problems did you have ? Is the car working ok with this ECU, although it doesn't have the immobiliser coding ?

The value was 185, now after the fix it is 211-212. I reset the TB again, the throttle angle is still 15 and rpm 670, didn't do a test drive though.

Have a look at comments in topics found at http://www.briskoda....speed-stalling/ and at http://www.briskoda....ine-idle-speed/

Apart from the faulty values mentioned, what issues are there in terms of driveability?

One last thing I would check is vacuum leaks. You'd be surprised how wrong things can get when unmetered air enters the engine. In fact, long injection time and higher throttle plate angle can be related to vacuum leaks. I would do a smoke test for that, it's THE definitive way of finding any air leaks.

Edited 19 June, 201313 yr by adurer

Yeah, I have one without immobiliser too, and I couldn't replace it, because it had those plastic pins. Why you replaced the ECU, which problems did you have ? Is the car working ok with this ECU, although it doesn't have the immobiliser coding ?

I had problems with my immobilizer, and instead of buying a new immobilizer cluster, I tried to work around it.

With the aid of some very kind people on this forum, I succeded.

Immobilizer by-pass, and a new ECU from the model not fitted with immobilizer.

Have a look at comments in topics found at http://www.briskoda....speed-stalling/ and at http://www.briskoda....ine-idle-speed/

Apart from the faulty values mentioned, what issues are there in terms of driveability?

One last thing I would check is vacuum leaks. You'd be surprised how wrong things can get when unmetered air enters the engine. In fact, long injection time and higher throttle plate angle can be related to vacuum leaks. I would do a smoke test for that, it's THE definitive way of finding any air leaks.

Idle is rough and low, sometimes the car stalls when clutch pedal is depressed. Backwards too, 2 weeks ago.

Other than this..nothing.

Oh, something under the car makes some strange noise when going downhill, don't know what it is, because exhaust is new, except the catalyser.

Which tubes must I check for vacuum leaks ?

I had problems with my immobilizer, and instead of buying a new immobilizer cluster, I tried to work around it.

With the aid of some very kind people on this forum, I succeded.

Immobilizer by-pass, and a new ECU from the model not fitted with immobilizer.

Which problems ?

Edited 19 June, 201313 yr by Skynetz

Which problems ?

I don't know really, the immobilizer didn't work. Either it was the coil, the chip in the key, or the immobilizer unit itself.

All I know is that the immobilizer made my car shut down, and I'm very happy that I finally managed to get it removed.

I don't know really, the immobilizer didn't work. Either it was the coil, the chip in the key, or the immobilizer unit itself.

All I know is that the immobilizer made my car shut down, and I'm very happy that I finally managed to get it removed.

Like you where driving and it just shut down ?

krrcan had the classical immobiliser (antitheft) doing its job symptom: you crank the engine, starts 2-3 seconds then dies. His problem is NOT related with yours.

Which tubes must I check for vacuum leaks ?

You need to check everything starting below throttle body and connected to intake manifold (see area marked in red).

First have a look how it's done professionally using a dedicated smoke machine in a garage. It's the best and quickest method.

Don't disregard this test! Vacuum leaks are the most common cause for low rough idle. You checked/replaced pretty much everything IIRC (I don't remember if you checked fuel rail pressure though).

I recommend inserting smoke through PCV hose, not through brake booster hose. Brake booster can be leaky too.

Even if you may not fully understand how it's done despite my efforts, a good mechanic having a smoke machine will know exactly what to do. If you can, please tape the entire procedure and post it on YouTube.

Edited 19 June, 201313 yr by adurer

Is there a DIY way to test for vacuum leaks with smoke ?

Yes, there is.

Check also http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91216

Edited 20 June, 201313 yr by adurer

If you find hard/expensive to do a smoke test for vacuum leaks, you can go to plan B. It's less precise but much simpler. Instead of describing the method, I will post a video that shows you everything. I was successful in diagnosing vacuum leaks using both substances recommended. One last word of advice: if the engine is running smoother at higher rpm, you definitely have a vacuum leak. Oh, and as before, if you can tape your procedure, show it to us, it would be very instructive and we'll guide you better.

Edited 21 June, 201313 yr by adurer

On further investigation, it looks there are 2 more types of ECUs for 1.6 MPI, so 4 types in total. That doesn't mean what I told you is not true. At least I took the time to check for you what you asked...

1995-1997 (6U1)

- code 032 906 030 L for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 M for vehicles with immobilizer

1998-2001 (6U2) - these are the same one I previously told you about

- code 032 906 030 AF for vehicles without immobilizer

- code 032 906 030 AJ for vehicles with immobilizer

My previous information is from ETKA catalog. They only mention 2 types of ECU from 1994 on. See proof below.

 

Hello, it's the Skynetz moron again

 

It was all ok for roughly a year now and than the car stalled again a few times. I went to a Skoda service and they gave me another throttle body to try and the mechanic told me that tho only other possible thing is the ECU, because the felicias before the facelift had set low rpm in idle. The facelifted felicias (6U2) supposedly had this reslved with a little higher idle rpm. Now I have an option to get 032 906 030 AJ, which is with the immobilizer as mine, so this should work (the mechanic said so), and an option to get 032 906 030 AG, which is not on this list. Where does this belong to ?

 

Thanks again

No one ?

I think those ending ag is from a model with aircon.

ECUs are built to last decades. Unless they operate in extreme conditions of heat and vibration, they survive till scrapyard time. One other thing that destroys them is electric shocks from grave maintenance errors. Any mechanic that tells you the ECU is bad, should have handy the proof from OBD data. Otherwise it is just hot air. So personally I don't buy it. Most often fail sensors that have elements in motion or are subject to harsh environment conditions. Corrosion-humidity-dirt is the second cause of trivial failure.

 

Avoid part-changers, look for mechanics that know how to diagnose an engine.

 

Code 032 906 030 AG has no official reference associated other than being used from '98 on.

ECUs are built to last decades. Unless they operate in extreme conditions of heat and vibration, they survive till scrapyard time. One other thing that destroys them is electric shocks from grave maintenance errors. Any mechanic that tells you the ECU is bad, should have handy the proof from OBD data. Otherwise it is just hot air. So personally I don't buy it. Most often fail sensors that have elements in motion or are subject to harsh environment conditions. Corrosion-humidity-dirt is the second cause of trivial failure.

 

Avoid part-changers, look for mechanics that know how to diagnose an engine.

 

Code 032 906 030 AG has no official reference associated other than being used from '98 on.

The mechanic didn't tell me the ECU is dead, the car is working and all, so it can't be. He only told me that there is maybe a problem with it, because the felicas before the facelift had a different ecu than the ones before it, and they had lower revs set when idle. He said that maybe this is the problem, but isn't sure. The throttle body sure isn't I would say.