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BRAKING ISSUE HELPP!

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My vrs had its MOT today and failed on parking brake effieincy. After inspecting i realised the rear drivers caliper was sticking. I then took if off the disk so i could free up the handbrake mech and in doing this the piston had came out too far so had to improvise and used pliers to get the piston back in.

Now the parking break is working great but the footbrake does not work unless you pump the brake a few times.

Can anyone help please?

tommo

possible; air in the system, might need bleeding?

Bleed

  • Author

how would any air have got in if i didnt undo anything?

Who knows, but bleeding is the first thing to try with the symptoms you describe.

  • Author

okay im going to have to give it a go now as i need to be in london by 3pm tomorrow and i dont fancy walking.

Maybe you now need to retract the pistons on both sides, clean everything up and treat to a spot of brake grease, refit AND GO THROUGH THE HANDBRAKE ADJUSTING PROCEDURE, I think that that involves pulling the handbrake lever up a few times, its in the Haynes manual. I think that you have eased off a seized lever/calliper/pads but have left the piston in the wrong position, so the hydraulic system needs to use a lot of fluid pushing the pads out. Maybe by now it has readjusted itself and is okay, if not I'd suggest that you do as I have suggested.

  • Author

thanks for your help guys i bled the rear brakes and now i have brakes and and MOT. Having a full service tomorrow so asked them t do a brake fluid change at the same time.

still having a problem with the caliper on the drivers side as it is binding, shud i replace the caliper? is it wise to do the one side or should i do both?

thanks in advance

I think it's fine to replace just one caliper. As long as the pads are the same on each side (which they might not be if one side has been binding).

You could take the binding caliper off and have a go at refurbing it, but it'll probably be less hassle to replace it.

  • Author

its only been binding since yesterday when i tightened the handbrake to pass the MOT ill get the garage to sort it tomorrow and what will be will be just hope its not too expensive.

Thanks

I had the same thing, one started binding a few years back. I had just that one replaced but then a few months down the line the other rear calliper started binding so just bit the bullet and replaced. Sticking seems quite common on these

I am having intermitten sticking issues on my front passenger side brake, I have literally just bit the bullet and bought myself a set of recon 312's for the fronts.

It got so bad that when i pulled up at some lights today smoke started coming from them......

I had the same thing, one started binding a few years back. I had just that one replaced but then a few months down the line the other rear calliper started binding so just bit the bullet and replaced. Sticking seems quite common on these

Assuming you're on about the rears did you not fit the uprated springs first? They're a lot cheaper than a new caliper would be.

As for smoking pads/discs when driving normally I'd get that looked at ASAP, it'll knacker the pad, fluid and disc if you're not careful and you replace them in pairs.

Yes, it's very common. I had to do both rears on the Polo. The springs didn't help, but they're still on the new ones to discourage sticking.

Yes, it's very common. I had to do both rears on the Polo. The springs didn't help, but they're still on the new ones to discourage sticking.

I'd hope that 9 times out of 10, if you clean up that area, fully retract both pistons, buy and fit external springs, then carry out the correct procedure to "adjust" the rear brakes (pistons) - though maybe slacken off the handbrake first, that the binding will disappear while the main braking system will function as expected - ie no foot to the floor.

the springs didnt cure my rear brakes binding but i lifted the rubber cover off the piston and sprayed in some wd40 pushed the piston in then out a little a few times which seemd to do the trick.....

I'd hope that 9 times out of 10, if you clean up that area, fully retract both pistons, buy and fit external springs, then carry out the correct procedure to "adjust" the rear brakes (pistons) - though maybe slacken off the handbrake first, that the binding will disappear while the main braking system will function as expected - ie no foot to the floor.

I just put them on the new calipers as there's no downside and there's less chance of mud and dirt gunking up the mechanism. At least I think there's no downside :)

I just put them on the new calipers as there's no downside and there's less chance of mud and dirt gunking up the mechanism. At least I think there's no downside :)

Only down side of sorting the binding rear brakes out is you need to use your handbrake a lot more as the car is free to run on anything other than level ground!!!

Rear discs on my wife's Polo started to bind when it was in warranty but I did not want the VW dealers fix of a new calliper, so just retracted the pistons every 6 months - very boring, until someone on here started talking about fitting external springs 6? years on, or so, they still do their work and I don't need to retract the pistons every 6 months, though I do make a habit of removing the pads and cleaning up everything once a year - same for the front brakes.

Edited by rum4mo

  • 4 months later...

Any advice on what to clean, grease and what tools are needed? Any specialist tools? I keep hearing about a caliper rewind tool, or is that not needed.

Any advice on what to clean, grease and what tools are needed? Any specialist tools? I keep hearing about a caliper rewind tool, or is that not needed.

a rewind tool is used on the back brakes to push the piston back in as the hand brake mech is on a worm/screw mechanism

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