The 1.8T diag thread

[David 8]

Leak fixed with K seal lol.

 

Was coming from the heater matrix.

 

It gets weird though, trying to do a log yesterday and on a 3rd gear run 

 

 18047 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185)              P1639 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal

 

Cleared and restarted engine, fine since !!??

[Cossie1]

Please tell me your joking about the K-seal.

[David 8]

Am I hell, it's too late in the day to be stripping dashboards out and such nonsense. It worked !!! 

 

On a car worth about £2.40 and some old buttons which is about to explode at some point, I can't be arsed spending a day taking out the dash for a tiny water leak.

[Cossie1]

The mess that stuff makes inside the cooling system is nasty, not something I would use in any car, let alone one with a turbo on it.

 

Nasty stuff, but I guess a cheap and easy temp. fix.

[karlbar2k]

Now the leak is "fixed" can you give the system a flush?

[David 8]

That's the plan Carl.

Not enough hours in the day for a strip down and I'm not throwing anymore money at this nail.

I'm still working on a plan to get rid asap

[Cossie1]

That's the plan Carl.

Not enough hours in the day for a strip down and I'm not throwing anymore money at this nail.

I'm still working on a plan to get rid asap

 

I'll give you full valuation price (you did say £2.40) in px

[David 8]

I'll give you full valuation price (you did say £2.40) in px

 

 

Make it it £2.50 at least !!!

 

 

Stripped the battery tray out and cleaned the grounds Tuesday night and last night I took the SAI/N249 bracket off completely and changed the suction pump spray thingy, I must be getting good as found the whole job a piece of cake, everything looked good of the bracket so no problems there.

Which kind of annoys me, as usual I would have liked to have found something really, I starting to wonder if theres an exhaust leak maybe as the lambda is still going nuts at idle so I reckon theres too much air somewhere which in turn is causing the ecu to throw in fuel.

[Cossie1]

Make it it £2.50 at least !!!

 

 

Stripped the battery tray out and cleaned the grounds Tuesday night and last night I took the SAI/N249 bracket off completely and changed the suction pump spray thingy, I must be getting good as found the whole job a piece of cake, everything looked good of the bracket so no problems there.

Which kind of annoys me, as usual I would have liked to have found something really, I starting to wonder if theres an exhaust leak maybe as the lambda is still going nuts at idle so I reckon theres too much air somewhere which in turn is causing the ecu to throw in fuel.

 

Ok £2.50 but not a penny more

 

Yesterday I replaced the brake servo / booster hose on my track car.

 

When I pulled it out of the servo the rubber seal split a little (so obviously ordered a new 1) but this morning, the car ran fine (and the brakes worked), but I noticed as soon as I lifted off the throttle, the exhaust would pop alot (I actually quiet liked it tbh).

 

I replaced the seal and the exhaust has stopped popping now, so it was obviously letting air get in when it shouldn't have been, even though there were no obvious side effects other than the exhaust noise which I probably wouldn't have noticed with a standard system fitted.

[Bowders1]

Ok £2.50 but not a penny more

 

Yesterday I replaced the brake servo / booster hose on my track car.

 

When I pulled it out of the servo the rubber seal split a little (so obviously ordered a new 1) but this morning, the car ran fine (and the brakes worked), but I noticed as soon as I lifted off the throttle, the exhaust would pop alot (I actually quiet liked it tbh).

 

I replaced the seal and the exhaust has stopped popping now, so it was obviously letting air get in when it shouldn't have been, even though there were no obvious side effects other than the exhaust noise which I probably wouldn't have noticed with a standard system fitted.

My car has started to do that too and pop more often on de throttle. I was thinking a leak in the exhaust downpipe gasket somewhere.

 

issues i have with my car is a kinda fluffy hesitation feel low down and slow driving. Feels like it may cut out or die sometimes.

 

What I have done recently that maybe linked to issue or just coincidence.

 

- Did the Injectors wire tuck(extended injectors wires)

- Had to unplug lot's of sensors including Throttle position sensor

- Same day let petrol get really low (near on fumes ) with the Walbro pump installed.

- filled up at nearest station (only had BP ultimate 97 ron) 20 litres

- set off and car started getting temperamental, stopped in train station few miles down road and lot's crud / smoke coming out of exhaust

- drove back home and car died, left it to go get help

- Came back 30 min later and car started up normally

-  now still have the low speed hesitation 

 

this was colour of my plugs after i checked them  

 

 

So far I have changed:

 

fuel pump back to std

fuel filter

swapped out plugs (as the brown does seem to stack with crud being pulled through)

 

So thinking the throttle calibration is needed as these cars are DBW not cable and maybe throttle is out of sync cause i unplugged it. I tried this trick of holding down pedal with ignition on for 30 sec  but not sure that is going to do anything.

 

Also thinking likely that I may of blocked injectors and thus low down running has been effected.

 

I have a spare set of injectors now so will have a go over weekend but would still like a throttle reset done for piece of mind.

 

this hesitation is a nightmare.

[Cossie1]

My car has started to do that too and pop more often on de throttle. I was thinking a leak in the exhaust downpipe gasket somewhere.

 

issues i have with my car is a kinda fluffy hesitation feel low down and slow driving. Feels like it may cut out or die sometimes.

 

What I have done recently that maybe linked to issue or just coincidence.

 

- Did the Injectors wire tuck(extended injectors wires)

- Had to unplug lot's of sensors including Throttle position sensor

- Same day let petrol get really low (near on fumes ) with the Walbro pump installed.

- filled up at nearest station (only had BP ultimate 97 ron) 20 litres

- set off and car started getting temperamental, stopped in train station few miles down road and lot's crud / smoke coming out of exhaust

- drove back home and car died, left it to go get help

- Came back 30 min later and car started up normally

-  now still have the low speed hesitation 

 

this was colour of my plugs after i checked them  

 

 

So far I have changed:

 

fuel pump back to std

fuel filter

swapped out plugs (as the brown does seem to stack with crud being pulled through)

 

So thinking the throttle calibration is needed as these cars are DBW not cable and maybe throttle is out of sync cause i unplugged it. I tried this trick of holding down pedal with ignition on for 30 sec  but not sure that is going to do anything.

 

Also thinking likely that I may of blocked injectors and thus low down running has been effected.

 

I have a spare set of injectors now so will have a go over weekend but would still like a throttle reset done for piece of mind.

 

this hesitation is a nightmare.

 

I do wonder if you have caused the problem by extending the wiring to your injectors, as this will add resistance into the loom and might effect things.

[Bowders1]

I do wonder if you have caused the problem by extending the wiring to your injectors, as this will add resistance into the loom and might effect things.

 

we are talking 30 to 40 mm so i did not think that would be sufficient to cause resistance issues?

[Cossie1]

The solder itself could effect the resistance afaik, also the wire you used will be different to the original wiring at a guess.

[David 8]

Thought I'd update whilst I've got 5 mins 

 

 

Still not 100% but I'm back on the standard map for now as it allows a better mpg figure, the injector duty cycle is lower so its not killing them off slowly.

 

Something is still not right, lambda at idle is swinging between rich/lean by up 20% and the the car is shuddering.

 

I couldn't really comment on the power as I have long since forgotten what an OE map feels like.

 

I've been posting on vortex and the general vibe is that I have either an electrical problem or a fuelling issue.

 

I've checked all the grounds I can find and changed all the fuel system parts so I've drawn a blank again.

 

 

 

It's useable and returning a higher mpg figure at the moment so I'll stick with that for now.

[Neo_VR]

Thought I'd update whilst I've got 5 mins 

 

 

Still not 100% but I'm back on the standard map for now as it allows a better mpg figure, the injector duty cycle is lower so its not killing them off slowly.

 

Something is still not right, lambda at idle is swinging between rich/lean by up 20% and the the car is shuddering.

 

I couldn't really comment on the power as I have long since forgotten what an OE map feels like.

 

I've been posting on vortex and the general vibe is that I have either an electrical problem or a fuelling issue.

 

I've checked all the grounds I can find and changed all the fuel system parts so I've drawn a blank again.

 

 

 

It's useable and returning a higher mpg figure at the moment so I'll stick with that for now.

 

 

What do you call usable MPG?

[David 8]

Anything over 22 mpg lol

Just left the office, now doing a few calls here and there in steady traffic and on 27.4 mpg. Useable mpg !!!

A bit slow though :(

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[David 8]

While we are here.

Did you sort your map after Col ??

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[Neo_VR]

Ahh ok.

 

The standard map is a bit tosh isnt it... never really feels in boost lol.

 

Im currently running a shark map.. full throttle etc apart from some mild surging its runs well and holds boost all the way to the redline.

 

Still got a few issues with hesitation and rather gutless sub 2krpm to troubleshoot at low RPM/part throttle, for the most part ive learnt to drive round it.

Things have improved since changing the airbox for one that hadnt been ******ised for a 3" maf and the SAI hole plugged..

All the VCDS adaption readings are pretty neutral and in-spec.. so next thing (when i can be arsed) is to clean the TB and have a better check for any little vac leaks.. the car has done 138k now so im not going to loose much sleep over it.

 

One thing i have noticed is that it does run slightly better with the MAF unplugged  - and then plugging it back in, the car runs really badly until its adapted.

[Neo_VR]

Ahh ok.

 

The standard map is a bit tosh isnt it... never really feels in boost lol.

 

Im currently running a shark map.. full throttle etc apart from some mild surging its runs well and holds boost all the way to the redline.

 

Still got a few issues with hesitation and rather gutless sub 2krpm to troubleshoot at low RPM/part throttle, for the most part ive learnt to drive round it.

Things have improved since changing the airbox for one that hadnt been ******ised for a 3" maf and the SAI hole plugged..

All the VCDS adaption readings are pretty neutral and in-spec.. so next thing (when i can be arsed) is to clean the TB and have a better check for any little vac leaks.. the car has done 138k now so im not going to loose much sleep over it.

 

One thing i have noticed is that it does run slightly better with the MAF unplugged  - and then plugging it back in, the car runs really badly until its adapted.

 

 

After cleaning out the TB and running the throttle adaption, the car runs smooth again, seem to have gained a few much-needed urban MPG too :-) well worth the 4quid odd for the gasket lol

[IulianE]

@Bowders1

 

Where the hell is that throttle position sensor?Couldn't find it!

Don't tell me is on the pedal.

Edited 20 August, 2013 by IulianE

[Bowders1]

I do wonder if you have caused the problem by extending the wiring to your injectors, as this will add resistance into the loom and might effect things.

 

The solder itself could effect the resistance afaik, also the wire you used will be different to the original wiring at a guess.

 

Hi Folks a update on my issues

 

I decided to remove the solder and re crimp the extended wires. This had no effect and i still got low down hesitation

 

So I think perhaps the hesitation is not linked to what i did. Remembering that I had let fuel tank run way low and pull crud from bottom of tank through fuel system. I replaced fuel  pump, filter, plugs, fuel rail, injectors and FPR i had as spares from previous cars. To which made no difference at all.

 

I then thought maybe throttle body clean may work , although only did this 6 months back but what the heck...

 

This is the condition of the throttle asm after complete removal

 

 

It was well coked up. Maybe from the crud it pulled through from empty tank.

 

A clean with carb cleaner and a polish had it clean in no time.

 

 

 

I also cleaned the Inlet manifold inner face

 

 

Also I decided to clean the IAT(Inlet Air Temp sensor) something I have never removed before, so thought give it a  go.

 

here it is.

 

 

Located to the right of the throttle asm in the inlet manifold

 

 

Look similar to the MAF sensor which I also cleaned)no pic of that through)

 

all cleaned and ready to go back on

 

 

Well the result is surprising.

 

The minute I started it up it idled perfect then fluctuated (guess coz I unplugged throttle position sensor)  Then back to perfect idle

I did unplug battery whilst i cleaned parts. 

 

A quick test drive and the hesitation has gone. Only did it today so will repost result end of week. I think for me the crud i pulled through tank coked both the IAT sensor and Throttle asm and caused the hesitation.

 

So happy to drive it again........