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yeah obd2 is too new, you need a reader that can do obd1 instead... the communications protocols used are completely different on those 2 obd types

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  • Adurer: Yeah - as Dave said, the voltage reg is combined with the brush pack at the bottom of the pic. Also, having a penis doesn't mean you can check what's wrong with a car. Nearly all my friends

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Just to clear things a bit, because something caught my eye, when you said "dry" battery, did you mean that literally? Like seeing through translucent battery case that electrolyte level is low? Or did you mean it had no more power?

I guess the former, because you can't see how much power you have left in your battery right after lifting the hood.

Having said that, it is very probable that for whatever reason voltage regulator got toasted (parts don't have infinite life) which in turn blew the poor little white box, which in turn subjected the battery to a dangerously high charging current. That made the battery electrolyte literally boil and dry fast. With that in mind, I hope you changed the battery too, and not let us think there are other issues involved (like bad immobilizer) when the issue could be a weak, quasi dead, shocked battery...

  • Author

Just to clear things a bit, because something caught my eye, when you said "dry" battery, did you mean that literally? Like seeing through translucent battery case that electrolyte level is low? Or did you mean it had no more power?

I guess the former, because you can't see how much power you have left in your battery right after lifting the hood.

Having said that, it is very probable that for whatever reason voltage regulator got toasted (parts don't have infinite life) which in turn blew the poor little white box, which in turn subjected the battery to a dangerously high charging current. That made the battery electrolyte literally boil and dry fast. With that in mind, I hope you changed the battery too, and not let us think there are other issues involved (like bad immobilizer) when the issue could be a weak, quasi dead, shocked battery...

yeh it has had new battery and new alternator but yes the battery was wasted. Nothing inside at all.

I started a new topic titled Felicia Immobiliser How-To that might be handy. Everybody is invited to add more content.

  • Author

Hi everyone, diagnostics came back as immo failure to ecu. I have changed them and it started straight away. I gave my girlfriend her first driving lesson in it. Running fine except an indicator bulb. Ha. I now have a spare steering wheel and column plus full lock kit as i only changed transponder and chip if anyone needs them. Also a working ecu but obviously it will need recoding. Anyway thankyou all for your guidance and help to sort it out.

Thanks for getting back to us. Just to check, you have changed the alternator control box, and checked that the voltage across the battery terminals remains at 12v to 14.5v with the engine running at idle through ~3_000rpm, because a failure there is almost certainly what boiled the battery and blew up the suppression capacitor.

  • Author

Im not sure ! Where is this located ? I have changed the battery,alternator and regulator,ecu and immo unit with key.i have had the battery checked off auto electrician and he said it looks ok.

This is all you'll ever need for your car: Motordiag VAG 5053 (VW, Škoda, Audi, Seat)

Supported cars

Škoda: Favorit (with injection), Felicia (6X) 1996 - 2001, Felicia Pick Up (67), Fabia (6Y) 2000 ->, Fabia II 2007 ->, Octavia I (1U) 1997 - 2005, Octavia II (1Z) 2005 ->, Pick Up (67) 1996 - 2001, Superb (3U) 2002 ->, Roomster 2006 ->,

Volkswagen: Caddy (9K) 1996 - 2003, Caddy (2K) 2004 ->, Corrado (50) 1989 -> 1995, Eos (1F) 2006 ->, Fox (5Z) 2005 ->, Gol/Parati/Saveiro (5X) 2000 ->, Golf II / Jetta II (19E) 1983 - 1992, Golf III / Jetta III / Vento / Cabrio (1H) 1992 - 1998, Golf IV Cabrio (1E) 1999 - 2002, Golf IV / Bora / Jetta IV (1J) 1998 - 2005, Golf V / Golf Plus / Jetta (1K/5M) 2004 ->, LT (2D) 1996 ->, Lupo (6E/6X) 1999 ->, New Beetle / Cabrio (1C/1Y/9C) 1999 ->, Passat (31/3A) 1988 - 1994, Passat (3B) 1997 ->, Passat (3C) 2005 ->, Phaeton (3D) 2002 ->, Polo (6N/6N2) 1994 - 2002, Polo (9N) 2002 ->, Sharan (7M) 1995 ->, Touareg (7L) 2003 ->, Touran (1T) 2003 ->, Transporter (70) 1991 - 1996, Transporter (7D) 1997 - 2003, Transporter (7H/7J) 2003 ->,

AUDI: A2 (8Z) 2000 ->, A3/S3 (8L) 1997 - 2003, A3 (8P) 2004 ->, Coupe (8B) 1989 - 1994, 80 (8C) 1992 - 1995, A4/S4 (8D) 1995 - 2001, A4/S4/Cabriolet (8E/8H) 2001 ->, 100/A6/S6 (4A) 1991 - 1997, A6/RS6/S6/allroad (4B) 1997 - 2005, A6 (4F) 2005 ->, Q7 (4L) 2006 ->, A8/S8 (4D) 1994 - 2002, A8 (4E) 2003 ->, TT (8N) 1999 ->, TT (8J) 2006 ->, V8 (44/4C) 1989 - 1994,

SEAT: Alhambra (7M) 1996 ->, Altea (5P) 2004 ->, Arosa (6B/6H) 1997 - 2004, Ibiza / Cordoba (6K) 1993 - 2002, Ibiza / Cordoba (6L) 2002 ->, Inca (9K) 1996 - 2003, Leon / Toledo (1M) 2000 ->, Leon (1P) 2006 ->, Toledo (1L) 1992 - 1999, Toledo (5P) 2005 ->

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vag-Scanner-Code-Reader-For-Audi-Volkswagen-Seat-Skoda-COM-CAN-Airbag-SRS-Reset-/220840475960?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item336b1e3d38

has anybody ever tried one of these? - says it works for a Felicia, but....well.......anybody ever chance one?

cheers

Im not sure ! Where is this located ? I have changed the battery,alternator and regulator,ecu and immo unit with key.i have had the battery checked off auto electrician and he said it looks ok.

The control box is normally attached to the alternator, and can be changed separately on the Felly. If the new alternator has been checked by an auto electrician and he says things look fine, he'll probably mean that the battery voltage was in the limits in my last.

  • Author

Is that the regulator unit (silver rectangular box with brushes on !). I say auto electrician,this is the same person who done my diagnostics check and said he couldnt reset the immo fault code,didnt know how ! Idiot ! This is a qualified auto leccy with his own shop ! Anyway,yeh i have changed that. I have a volt meter here i will check it when i work out how to use it,lol. It will be 12v DC red to battery and black to chassis yeh !

The regulator is the silver brush box, and that was more than likely the cause of your problems, I had one fail on Rally GB, which cooked the battery a bit, but more to the point killed my expensive in car camera! Lesson learned there...

Glad you got it sorted.

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