Ok - couple of initial points:

ASZ engine.

I've used the search function countless times. I cannot find a definitive thread about how to do this despite finding the same questions over and over again - is it any good? should I do it? yada yada yada I don't care, I've made up my mind that I'd like to do it.

I've had a look on as many posts, pictures and things and have found the following:

There are 3 bolts to undo to remove the EGR valve unit from the inlet manifold. They're H5 Hex bolts.

There are 2 bolts to disconnect the Crankcase breather from the EGR valve unit. They're H6 Hex bolts.

What is not said is that YOU CAN'T UNDO THE BOTTOM EGR BOLT without removing the crankcase breather pipe first and I can't see any way of removing the crankcase breather as there is so little room down there.

Can anyone point me to some sort of guide that will allow me to do any of this without having to take half the engine out?

As far as I've got, its engine cover off, intercooler pipes off, vac pipe from ASV and EGR off and plugged. Top two bolts disconnected from EGR unit, and I'm completely stuck now!

Are there any particular tools that people felt came in handy?

Worse cse scenario, I put it back together and leave the EGR in place but it has been deactivated as such with the vac pipes plugged, but in the longer term, its pretty mucky in there and if I was to want to clean it, I have the same problem.

Anyone?!?

P.S And, in my frustrated angry state, its mind-boggling how many people ask the same bloody questions! Yes the engine light will come on, yes you can map it out. Yes the BLT can retain the ASV. Jeeez! This is all you find when you search for EGR+Removal, EGR+delete, EGR+delete+removal ad infinum ad infinitum

Sod's law I found this - any chance this can be made a sticky? Or put in the tech guide?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/257098-egr-delete/page__hl__egr+problem#entry3025213

Edited 27 April, 201313 yr by travs

The crankcase breather pipe is not connected to the EGR. The pipe connected to the underside of the EGR is from the exhaust.

Remove the two bolts that secure the pipe to the underside of the EGR and recover the gasket. Use a long hex bit between the pipe flange and the EGR to undo the lower EGR to manifold bolt. Be careful not to damage the pipe.

My bad on terminology.

The exhaust feeder pipe just stumps me - I can't get anything with purchase to undo the bolts - the one furthest from the bulkhead is stumping me - I have no idea how on earth you can get anything to the other one. There is just no room with the manifold and brake reservoir there?!?

Even the cambelt cover is making my life hell as is the mechanism for the butterfly valve on the side of the egr. I don't have swear words strong enough for this situation!

unclip the upper cambelt cover, I found removing the brake fluid cap helps a little with room

use a allen key bit with a spanner, I taped mine to the spanner to stop it falling (masking tape was weapon of choice as all I had to hand)

I did think about unclipping the cambelt cover, but wasn't sure what it would involve. I was getting a bit wound-up and proud and was certain it was an easy job so just swore some more and now have various grazes.

Also had an enormous boostleak due to the T-bolt clamps being too big. So I'm off to buy some normal hose clips for it for the moment and then will order some Mikalors.

I also went to Halfords to buy a set of Allen Keys - turns out they were too long and fouled on the brake reservoir. A random short 6mm one that I found in my toolbox however did the job.

Cheers for the tips - this really is a PITA job though. Needs a healthwarning and definitely for people not to say "it seems like a fairly simple 30min job" though. People like me believe that!

The crankcase breather pipe is not connected to the EGR. The pipe connected to the underside of the EGR is from the exhaust.

Remove the two bolts that secure the pipe to the underside of the EGR and recover the gasket. Use a long hex bit between the pipe flange and the EGR to undo the lower EGR to manifold bolt. Be careful not to damage the pipe.

When you said be careful not to damage the pipe - is this because it damages easily and creates a ridiculous exhaust leak which also leaks all your boost? With a stupid exhaust-blowing noise on any sort of acceleration? As that appears to be the symptoms that I have...

Is there an easy fix?

You removed the little exhaust pipe from the turbo to the egr didn't you? As I put the blanking plate on the end of this pipe at first which was wrong basically

The 2 bolts holding the egr pipe from the turbo onto the egr valve are 6mm allen keys and can be removed using a 6mm allen key (L shaped allen key not alle key socket normal length not a long one)

Once the 2 6mm allen keys are removed u will br able to reach the last bolt that holds the egr valve on.

R u sure they are not 5mm allen keys? I use a ball ended long 5mm allen key socket but u can also use a long ball ended "L" shaped allen key

You removed the little exhaust pipe from the turbo to the egr didn't you? As I put the blanking plate on the end of this pipe at first which was wrong basically

Eventually - see the "feeling the love again" thread. Originally blanked off the pipe but this had an enormous split in the accordian section. Removed it toally and all is well again!

The 2 bolts holding the egr pipe from the turbo onto the egr valve are 6mm allen keys and can be removed using a 6mm allen key (L shaped allen key not alle key socket normal length not a long one)

Once the 2 6mm allen keys are removed u will br able to reach the last bolt that holds the egr valve on.

R u sure they are not 5mm allen keys? I use a ball ended long 5mm allen key socket but u can also use a long ball ended "L" shaped allen key

The 3 bolts holding the EGR on were 5mm hex, the 2 for the pipe from the exhaust were 6mm hex. The allen key I had was too long and fouled on either the brake reservoir or the bulkhead. Really frustrating. I found a random shorter allen key in my toolbox (ie shorter long section) which did the job but the ball-tiped ones probably would have worked too, thinking about it.

The nuts at the other end of the exhaust feeder were 12mm but were rusty as anything and needed some WD40 to get off - was worried I was going to round them off for a while. I had some new 13mm nuts with the same inner thread to copper-slipped and put those on instead. Job done.

I do think there should be a complete write-up for this with tools and tips as a sticky in the how-to area though. I definitely didn't realise how tricky (as oposed to difficult) the job turned out to be.

Ah ye just realised hex is allen key lol.. ye thats what i meant a short L shaped 6mm to remove the 2 6mm hex (allen key) bolts from the pipe at the egr end then u can remove the last 5mm hex (allen key) bolt.. always best to leave one of the easier bolts to get to on the egr valve till last

Is it all fitted now?

Yeah all done thank god mate. Put the easier bolt back on as I was in danger of losing everthing to the sump-shield lol.

My initial test-drive showed the exhaust-feeder to be split to buggery so I then did what everyone subsequently suggests which is blank off at the turbo end. No leaks now, and I've got some T-bolt clamps (same design as Mikalor's from ASH) on order to make sure nothing goes anywhere.

Cheers for your help

I do think there should be a complete write-up for this with tools and tips as a sticky in the how-to area though. I definitely didn't realise how tricky (as oposed to difficult) the job turned out to be.

You have just volunteered yourself into another job.

DB.

I did mine last night, the only hard bit I found was how tight the bolts were on EGR pipe from the manifold. I was putting in an EGR delete and the difference is noticeable, feels a lot smoother

I'm only down the road from you in Colchester if you need any help!

A little comment if I may. Don't use WD40 to release stuck bolts as just it makes it harder to hold them. A nice purpose-made releasing fluid makes life so much easier. Once you've used it, you'll wonder why it hasn't always been in your tool box.

You have just volunteered yourself into another job.

DB.

I could see that one coming...

I was thinking about it at the time, but didn't get pictures. So I'll see if I can trawl t'internet for it. Although I've noticed there is an EGR cooler on the BLT which I know nothing of. Mine would only be ASZ engine. Thing is, there is plenty of info including little tried-and-tested solutions, they just need pooling into one.

I did mine last night, the only hard bit I found was how tight the bolts were on EGR pipe from the manifold. I was putting in an EGR delete and the difference is noticeable, feels a lot smoother

I'm only down the road from you in Colchester if you need any help!

Cheers Sharpyy - will no doubt take you up on that if future jobs are just as annoying!

A little comment if I may. Don't use WD40 to release stuck bolts as just it makes it harder to hold them. A nice purpose-made releasing fluid makes life so much easier. Once you've used it, you'll wonder why it hasn't always been in your tool box.

Sounds good to me - like Wurth's Rust-off? Got any preferences?