I kI just wonder how much damage it might have done

I don't even want to think of a brake pipe corroded for years bad enough to burst on a downhill slope...

I have been out practising emergency stops in it; other than a slight pull to the left, everything seems fine. I put the pull down to road camber as I was doing it on quiet country roads rather than the main "A" roads.

Hi guys!

 

First, I just want to say that I'm really thankful to you guys for helping me out here, step by step. It really means a lot. Now, we're less than 1½ month away from MOT (well, the Swedish equivalence, anyways) deadline. Since this is our first car and I don't know much about how these guys draw the line when it comes to chassis corrosion, etc, I've decided to put the car on sale. Anyways, if no one has bought it before "besiktning" (MOT*) is due, I'll probably bring it in just to see their verdict. Then, if it's only the brakes that bother them, I'll probably [like you guys suggest] buy rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes (in pairs, like recommended) and try to fit it. If it's going to be corrosion issues that requires welding I'll probably just send it to the graveyard. It's simply just not worth it.

 

Anyways, like I wrote earlier I've been a bit scared of the wheel cylinder changing part since it involves bleeding the brakes, and I've never done this piece of job. Thing is, I haven't been able to find a bleed nipple and this made me confused. I was starting to believe that Felicia used some strange system when the bleed nipple is somehow "implemented" in the actual brake pipe inline to the cylinder, which sounds really weird, anyways. Now, tonight I finally found what I thought was a really good wrap tutorial on how to bleed brakes. Here, the illustration made it really clear that the bleed nipple really is supposed to be separate from the brake pipe inline. Now, I took my girls and went back out to the parking lot.

 

I snapped some photos with my cell phone from the inner angle, so that I could get a really good look on how it looked. I photographed both rear sides. Afterwards, it was pretty clear to me what a mess I'm in. The bleeding nipple on the right rear cylinder (which is not leaking) has been somehow snapped. That's why I couldn't find it. Also, the bleed nipple on the left rear wheel (that is leaking) is (perhaps) intact, but it's somewhat rusty, to say the least. It will probably brake the moment I try to turn it with a wrench or a U-key.

 

 

Anyways, now I have some insight, and sort of know what I need to do.

 

Again, thanks, you guys been more than helpful in all this.

 

I'll keep you up to date with whatever happens.

 

Cheers!

 

If the bleed nipple is snapped you can always bleed that brake by slackening off the fluid union at the wheel cylinder instead as a last resort.. Although be careful when undoing the brake pipes they often get chewed up if you use throng spanner, or worse they break off.

Judging by the photos of the car and previous description, it looks like the car was heavily neglected for years, so my guess is that (despite our efforts) he'll send his car to Felicia heaven. Unless MOT guys accept a bribe or are drunk during car inspection. There's a lot of repairs to do and the owner is not willing to pay the price.