Hi all.

I eventually decided to Mr Muscle my ASV turbo (03 Estate) as I'm fed up with the car going limp. After 3 hours of trying to get the egr bolts undone (and losing 3 of 4 allen bits that fell in to the engine bay) I swore a lot and called it a day. I did, however, get the lower nuts off relatively easily, leaving the threaded studs in situ. What concerns me is that had I managed to get the egr bolts out how would I get the pipe over the lower studs ? So, 2 questions :
1/ How do you remove the egr bolts ?
2/ How do you get the pipe off when the studs are still screwed in ?

As always any help/advice much appreciated (especially if it saves me the price of a new or recon turbo).

Regards Rob          

Edited 6 August, 201312 yr by comfortablynumb

I had to put a new EGR on my car last week. Really easy to do. Remove the large inlet pipe off the EGR undo the 3 allen bolts holding the EGR to the inlet manifold using a long reach 5mm allen key then remove the 2 EGR pipe nuts & pull the whole thing up & off the studs with the pipe still attached to the EGR. Took me about 45 mins in total to remove & refit.

Its not as hard to do on the audi as the engine is in a different position and the egr is just by the wing on the octy its at the rear of the engine bay much harder to get to if the alen bolts are seized lots of back bending . 

Point taken.

Thanks Paul. I did consider doing it that way and I actually removed 2 EGR securing bolts but nothing shifted. Now you've told me there are 3 securing bolts I know

why nothing moved !! I guess the third bolt must be underneath. Right, off to try again using magnetic tools and blocking all escape routes in case I drop any more bits.

Regards Rob.

Back to the drawing board ! If I am not mistaken I found what could be the 3rd EGR retaining bolt underneath the EGR. Unfortunately the pipe flange and rear bolt

are in the way so unable to remove it. I'm going to put it back together and have the rest of the afternoon off. Or I could use the Mr Muscle for the task it was designed for. On second thoughts, nah, can't be bothered to do that either. I feel a new or reconditioned turbo coming on.

Rob

You just need a long reach allen to get to the bottom bolt.

There's two 6mm hex bolts holding the pipe under the egr/shudder (don't drop the little gasket there), the pipe had a semi-rigid flexi section and can then be gently pushed out the way enough to get at the 3rd 5mm-ish bolt. It was impossible to reach it with any tool with enough force on my brother's ASV'd taxi otherwise. After losing one bit, I started using a bit of electrical insulation tape wrapped around the bit/holder.

As previously said the pipe flange and the rearward bolt head completely block access to the lower EGR bolt.The two manifold studs prevent movement of the pipe at the bottom end. Perhaps there is something fundamental that I am missing here ? Perhaps I need improved tools to remove the pipe to EGR bolts (and see where that takes me)or offer financial/material inducement for someone to do it for me ! At the moment the car usually only goes into limp mode at 60 in 3rd but an independant VAG garage has confirmed the turbo vanes are not operating fully. That's why I think the Muscle treatment would sort me out rather than replace the turbo. So as it isn't that bad I can live with it for the moment until I can find a way to get that pipe off. I just won't do 60 in 3rd.

I seem to have to this quite regularly on mine.

 

1.  Undo the clips on the large 90 deg rubber air pipe which attaches to the EGR assembly

2.  Unto the 2 nuts from the EGR pipe onto the exhaust manifold (where you are going to stick the Mr Muscle)

3.  Unto the 2 allen bolts for the top of the EGR pipe

4.  Disconnect vacuum pipes & cables as necessary

5.  Unto the 3 allen bolts which holds the EGR assembly onto the inlet manifold

 

The quick test is to remove the vacuum pipe from the n75 valve and suck on it while you have your hand on the actuator on the turbo.  If it does not move, it creakys & groans or moves in 'steps' then the turbo probably needs a clean.  If it moves smoothly and easily then the issue isn't the vanes/control ring.

 

Do it sooner rather than later as it will only get worse.

"Perhaps I need improved tools to remove the pipe to EGR bolts"

You just need to faff around with various length attachments until you can find enough space.

I think I used a wobble/universal handle or a short ratchet handle just to crack them off, you only need to turn through a tiny fraction of an arc.
Once loosened, a screwdriver handle attachment does until fingers can finish the job.

I did notice the bolts/studs at the other end looked rusted/seized to an unrecognisable mass - but I didn't need the other end off for my job.

Thanks for the replies gents. Will persevere with this when I get back from hols. Don't want to go away stressed at not being able to do it and I don't think SWMBO would appreciate me tinkering while we are away.

@mbames: I've heard of the N75 valve but know nothing about it or it's location. Could you please enlighten me ?

Regards Rob