The CR140 engine in the Scout is all but identical to the one in my CR140 Superb.

 

I created a similar write up describing my experience here but I took a few pictures too along the journey!

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/346425-oil-and-air-filter-change-skoda-superb-cr140-cffb/

 

You will notice that I too went through the same pain as you with regard to the incorrect oil filter!

Edited 29 July, 201510 yr by silver1011

Oil? Anything with VAG spec 5-30 SAE Longlife 504.00 507.00 VW. I don’t see the point in blowing £65 on High End brands when you can get exactly the same spec for £32 made by Valvoline. 

 

Just a point worth of note, as the CR140 Octavia Scout has a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) you shouldn't use VW504.00 oil.

 

Whether on fixed or long life / variable service intervals you must use VW507.00 spec oil as it has a lower ash content which is better suited to the preservation of the DPF.

You will notice that I too went through the same pain as you with regard to the incorrect oil filter!

 

Same here. The first time I did oil change, I did it approx 10 PM. Not only I was disappointed that I got the wrong filter but I wasn't able to get the real one at that hour too. I simply changed the oil and then changed the filter next morning (by the way, guy at the store offered me two filters - both the right and the wrong ones). Seems like many people have this problem...

Edited 29 July, 201510 yr by Jevpls

I changed oil & Filter last week-end myself for the first time on my '11 plate Scout. Here's how I did it.

 

 

Oil + Filter change on ’11 plate Skoda Octavia Scout II 2 Litre TDI CR DPF 103Kw

 

IMPORTANT: There were 2 different types of oil filters listed for this model when I inputted my Reg. No into Eurocarparts website.  One is Mann HU 7008 z or equivalent which is the correct one for the CFHC engine. This is a corrugated  paper type cylinder which comes with 3 o-rings,-one large and 2 smaller. It does NOT have a black plastic spindle integral to it. It DOES have a top and a bottom, so take care when you place it over the plastic spindle attached to your oil filter cap with the 32mm hexagon. Mann make Bosch filters, so don’t waste your money on Bosch.

The other is Fram CH9463AECO or equivalent which is different and has a fixed black plastic spindle running internally through its long axis.

You can see these clearly in Eurocarparts’ website. Make sure you have the correct filter for your engine, and don’t do as I did, drop the oil and then find you’ve got the wrong filter on a Sunday afternoon miles from anywhere. (Not Eurocarparts fault by the way).

Oil? Anything with VAG spec 5-30 SAE Longlife 504.00 507.00 VW. I don’t see the point in blowing £65 on High End brands when you can get exactly the same spec for £32 made by Valvoline. There was a time when I would have done that, but I’m a pensioner now! Anyway, you’re going to change it in 10K. miles aren’t you?

 

I’m assuming you have ramps etc. and the kit for a basic oil change, and some basic knowledge and experience. Get oil hot and, up on the ramps, take the under engine tray off. 4 bolts front, 8 torx self tappers, 4 left, 4 right, and finally 2 bolts rear. The bolts may be slightly rusted but they need to come off. Leave the 2 rears till last and front plastic lugs will keep tray in place till the last minute. I put Copperease on all the threads to make it easier next time.

 

Under the bonnet, locate the oil-filler cap and clean any dirt away around it before removing If you have an airline, just blast it away,-don’t let any dirt drop into the filler hole. Ease off the plastic tray covering and insulating the engine. Lift the front first then gently ease the back 2 poppers off. Take the dipstick out and clean. Find the oil filter cover,-(not easy unless you know what to look for). Its buried away half way down the front of the engine. To gain access you need to unscrew a metal bracket supporting 2 rubber pipes. It’s a single Torx bolt. TAKE CARE not to drop it down the front of the engine. You’ll find if you gently ease the pipes to the right and unclip them from the bracket there will be enough room to remove the big black domed oil filter cover with the 32mm hexagon nut. You will need a socket this size to remove it .

Get a clean rag and feed it round the base of the oil filter housing, making a sort of collar to catch the inevitable drips from the old oil filter when its is removed with some difficulty. Its worth taking your time to do this properly. It saves messy spillage and mopping up afterwards. Get an old pan or tin ready to drop the dirty filter in once you’ve wriggled it free. It WILL come, just take it easy and don’t force it. Get your big 32mm. socket on the cover and unscrew until freed, then wriggle it into the pan. Take old filter off the plastic spindle, (CFHC engines) and NOTE CAREFULLY where the new o-rings are to be replaced once you’ve got the old ones off. The large o-ring on mine is positioned in the second groove down from the top.

There will be residual dirty oil in the base of the filter housing. I used a clean, swarf free rag to soak it up and gently poked it into the crevices until clean.

 

Get under the car and slacken and remove the sump plug, dropping the oil into a suitable container. The sump plug is a steel 19mm hexagon bolt sticking horizontally out facing backwards under the driver’s side (UK). It has a captive steel washer which you do not replace, (unless examination proves it unserviceable), in which case you need a whole new sump plug and washer combined,-unlikely unless an older car. It is NOT the vertically placed recessed bolt with the hexagonal key insert more centrally placed. That’s the gearbox drain plug. Don’t mess with that!!

 

Clean the oil filter cover and integral spindle if CFHC engine, and replace the o-rings with the new ones going exactly in the same place. Smear some clean oil on them ready for re-assembly. When old oil is all out to your satisfaction, put the sump plug back in and tighten to the correct torque, 30Nm. Obviously do NOT overtighten. Replace the oil filter cover with the new filter snapped into place as one unit (remember it has a top and a bottom)and gently ease it back into its housing and screw it in making sure its not cross-threading. Torque to 25Nm. (its on the cap).

Refill with 4.3 Litres of your chosen oil and replace the filler cap. Stick the dipstick back in. When you check the level afterwards you will find it only comes half way up the dipstick,-but that’s what they recommend for oil and filter change, so who am I to argue?

Start the engine and allow to idle while checking for any leaks above and below. If all is well replace the plastic engine cover making sure it snaps into place. Engine off and replace plastic underbody tray with your greased bolts.

I had a mini panic when I tried to rev the engine after a suitable warming up period. It wouldn’t rev over 2000. I had the bonnet open so I thought maybe that was it, but no, it still wouldn’t rev. I took it down the road and it settled down at once. If anyone can tell me why this happened, I’d be grateful.

Finally reset your service indicator. My car has an information display so you just scroll down to ‘service intervals’ and reset, and that annoying little message telling you you need a service goes away for another 10K.miles.

On my Scout with an Information display, there is no oil warning light coming on when the ignition is switched on. It only displays if the oil level is too low or if a fault occurs.

Same here. The first time I did oil change, I did it approx 10 PM. Not only I was disappointed that I got the wrong filter but I wasn't able to get the real one at that hour too. I simply changed the oil and then changed the filter next morning (by the way, guy at the store offered me two filters - both the right and the wrong ones). Seems like many people have this problem...

You should try living on the Isle of Skye where your nearest motor factor is 95 miles away or 1 hour 50 mins drive. I was due to drive to Glasgow the following day so I had to stick the old filter in and mentally consign the fresh oil to an early re-cycle. Managed to get new oil & filter from Glasgow Eurocarparts. Now I'm stressing about the possible need for a new sump plug before repeating the process!

Just a point worth of note, as the CR140 Octavia Scout has a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) you shouldn't use VW504.00 oil.

Whether on fixed or long life / variable service intervals you must use VW507.00 spec oil as it has a lower ash content which is better suited to the preservation of the DPF.

Thank you Silver, I take your point but if you examine most VAG Fully Synthetic 5-30 Longlife rated oils you will see on the container:

Meets the requirements of: ACEA C3-12

                                           VW 504.00/507.00

                                            MB229.51

                                            BMW LL-04

                                            Porsche C30

Ticks all the boxes,-no?

Looking good on the oil front!

 

You are a lucky guy, driving a very capable Octavia Scout (my wife has an older 2008 PD140 Scout) and living in such a beautiful place.

 

I'd happily forgo the convenience of a local motor factors for the peace and quiet you must enjoy!

IMPORTANT: PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE SUMP PLUG TORQUE RATING IN MY POSTS BEFORE STARTING.

 

I've tried to edit my first post where I specify 40Nm and amend it to 30Nm but I can't seem to do it.

 

Like many of you I have searched high and low on the internet and on here for a definitive WORKSHOP Manual Torque spec.(NOT hearsay) and I can't find it. Is there anyone out there who can say with authority what the correct value is?

Guys, aren't you overrating the meaning of that sump plug? I know people that change oil for many years and they always use the same plug and tighten it as much as they think they should. Everything is fine.

IMPORTANT: PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE SUMP PLUG TORQUE RATING IN MY POSTS BEFORE STARTING.

 

I've tried to edit my first post where I specify 40Nm and amend it to 30Nm but I can't seem to do it.

 

Like many of you I have searched high and low on the internet and on here for a definitive WORKSHOP Manual Torque spec.(NOT hearsay) and I can't find it. Is there anyone out there who can say with authority what the correct value is?

 

Edited for you

Guys, aren't you overrating the meaning of that sump plug? I know people that change oil for many years and they always use the same plug and tighten it as much as they think they should. Everything is fine.

You may be right, and what you describe might be ok with the old-style copper washers with some 'give' in them for compression. But these sump plugs have captive steel washers with no compression. I'd rather have the proper torque value and not risk over tightening.

Incidentally, my ex VAG technician friend tells me the sump plug torque is 30Nm.

I have worked with various bolts before and over tightening them is not that easy thing to do. Sure, there are enthuziastic people that are able of breaking bolts with diameter of my arm but most of us aren't. I doubt that this one is being made weaker than other similar size ones.

But that's up to you - everyone has it's own head for the right decisions.

I change the oil every 5000 miles and use the same sump plug and torque it up by feel. Nipped up but not too tight. Never had an issue but if you are not too sure by all means use a torque wrench rather than strip the sump threads. If it had a compressible washer then its worth renewing but as its a solid washer there is no need.

Edited 29 July, 201510 yr by FatblokeVRS

Just a point worth of note, as the CR140 Octavia Scout has a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) you shouldn't use VW504.00 oil.

 

Whether on fixed or long life / variable service intervals you must use VW507.00 spec oil as it has a lower ash content which is better suited to the preservation of the DPF.

Have you ever seen a 504.00 spec oil that isn't 507.00 as well?  I haven't.

IMPORTANT: PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE SUMP PLUG TORQUE RATING IN MY POSTS BEFORE STARTING.

 

I've tried to edit my first post where I specify 40Nm and amend it to 30Nm but I can't seem to do it.

 

Like many of you I have searched high and low on the internet and on here for a definitive WORKSHOP Manual Torque spec.(NOT hearsay) and I can't find it. Is there anyone out there who can say with authority what the correct value is?

google "Golf quick reference specification book".  It has all / most the torque values.   Oil Pan Drain Plug = 30Nm

 

I'll do it for you

http://www.norcalmotorsports.org/users/bryan/mods/Golf_R/Tech/2013%20Golf,%20GTI%20&%20Golf%20R%20Quick%20Reference%20Specification%20Book.pdf

Six years on!!!   I use Mannol 504/507 at 8-10k intervals.  It costs £50 for 20 litres and it brilliant oil - no issues at all over 60k miles.  I have never changed the sump plug or used a torque wrench on it.  In fact, when I got a slight weep, I just put a couple of winds of ptfe tape around the threads nearest the hex on the plug and it cured it.  Changed oil in cars this way for 40 years and never lost a sump plug or had any engine problems.  Filters have ranged from Crosland to Mann to Bosch and many more - never been an issue.

 

Oh, and I never use a pump - doesn't remove any crap/sludge from the sump.  I get it nice and warm and drop the whole lot out from the bottom!

 

So, I do my changes on my 2008 1.9 PD for about £17 and an hour of my time (leisurely pace).  Don't give the money to the stealers.

Using a pump and then still removing the sump plug gets out crap / sludge if there is any when changing hot oil.  Not that there is any sludge to be removed if changing oil and filters regularly.

Don't know why you'd use a pump then remove the plug - may as well just remove the plug, surely.  Sludge can build up over time.  Also, you can check the condition of the oil and whether there are any 'bits of foreign matter' at the bottom of the receptacle you're using to receive the oil.

I changed the oil on my 1.4 TSI the other day.

 

Since it only has a very small under engine cover that doesn't cover the sump plug then I decided to drain the oil. Was the easiest oil and filter changed I'd ever done.

 

Filter is also super accessible and not a single drop of oil came out when I unscrewed it.

 

Used Mannol oil and Mann oil filter.

 

My previous Saab 1.9 TTiD was a bloody nightmare. Filter was on the back left corner and far down and had a stupid drain hole that you had to try and attach a hose to drain the excess oil out but it never seem to work and I always ended up making a horrible mess!

Edited 28 June, 20214 yr by Phil-E

Hey Phil.  The Skodas are really easy, except perhaps for the tray under the Octy.  I usually put the front wheels on ramps for easy access.  Filter is at the top for the Octy and a front spin-on for the Citigo.  I did have a car in the past where the filter was right at the back, but can't remember which car.  TBH, for most VAG cars, pretty much anyone could have a go at an oil change.  As for the sump plug, screw it in and nip it up - no probs.

I dont know the answer to this one - I'm just asking ...

 

I still warm the engine before an oil change, but with such thin oils that are like water when cold and hardly any thicker when warm do we need to do this?

 

I'm due an oil and filter change, just waiting 4 more weeks so no Grandaughter here and I'll get on it. Mannoil 507 and filter already purchased. D-I-Y all the way for me. I make sure I do a good job. (Now I know the sump plug is plastic ) 

Thicker (even if hardly) when warm?

@beezera10 Professionals and non professionals can be doing more than just a few oil changes in a day and H&S has them doing hot oil changes and still changing the sump plug as their manual states they should.

As for checking the bottom of a drain tray or the filter on the catcher for bits, you can strain the oil you are pouring out the pump container and check.

 

Each to their own how they do stuff.

When i was an apprentice there was only one way of doing it and it was your way.  Only it was never hot oil we drained.

 

 

Drain off or suction off engine oil.doc

Edited 28 June, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

OK, I know this is quite an old thread, but...

 

For those who use a pump, I tried my old pump and the pipe would not fit in to the  dipstick hole on a 1.4 CAXA engine. Do those dipstick holes vary in diameter by engine type?

 

The cheapest oil that I have seen that meets the longlife spec has been at Tesco when they've had the Redex oil on half price offer ( £8 for two litres, I believe...this is one of several specifications of Redex oil that is available, so you need to be careful, but it looks as if, if one is on offer, all are on offer, just not all that often)

 

Beyond that, Opie have had Elf Sporti 9 at about £26 for 4 litres, but at least that was regularly available (just be aware that there is more than one variant, and only one is the '507 for variable service intervals) The Redex oil seems to go darker, faster so the Elf may be better, unless it is just how fast the oil is dissolving accumulated crud.

If you want to pay a lower purchase price for VW 504 00 / 507 00, so 5w 30 FS III best look in Asda as well as Tesco because they seem to be pricing against each other.

More often Asda has reduced prices on the oil. 

Made by proper oil producers and to the correct spec.