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Carburetor possessed evil skoda felicia glx 2000

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Greetings I am new to the forum ... 

 

I have a problem with my Carburetor (Pierburg 2E3) can not find a stable low as graduate moving the (idle jet - primary) but I see that to lay a finger to plug the hole having returns regardless of having the car stabilizes but when I take my finger and Jalone again, that wearing a rubber oring has placed but not to do (a friend has a felicia and change this part and that of the stable is not no way) 

 

that happen to this? 

 

as I can fix it? 

 

thank you very much

Edited by RicardoM

I recommend contacting adurer on private message.

he will give you best information you need to repair your carburettor.

all I know is from him.

 

I think the idle speed is not stable because you have a vacuum leak between carburettor and intake manifold.

it is a common problem.

what type of gasket do you have under your carburettor?

the rubber one?

or the metal / plastic one?

it is new?

  • Author
Thanks for your answer my brother 

 

Yesterday night I was reading a post that says the Carburetor reglages 

Perform the following test that I read in the post 

 

I closed the screw to the maximum gasoline blend until I could not turn over (the engine under the fly but do not turn off) 

 

while reading the post I found the following image 

 

1) remove the carburetor and I realized I do not have the board that has the red line. silicon has a lot of high temperature, bad mechanical 

 

2) black gum base is in good condition not broken or seems broken 

(So you do not if this works or buy new) 

 

3) the metal part is bronze color (I have the original) or use the new buy the same? 

 

 

thank you very much

you must understand that Pierburg 2E3 is very sensitive to vacuum leaks.

I agree: if the engine doesn't stop when you screw IN the mixture screw all the way, then it is the definitive proof there are vacuum leaks.

 

here is what you have to do:

- items 2 and 3 must be rectified till they are flat. they are warped from factory. use a flat board and sandpaper, first a coarse one, then a finer one.

- buy a high temperature 'liquid gasket' tube. it is a red paste that smells like vinegar.

- discard item 1, that is a joke

- make an identical one from 1-2 mm cardboard for folders (not from packaging cardboard, it has holes), 

- make 2 more cardboard gaskets having the shape of item 2

- make a continuous contour (2 mm thick) from liquid gasket on both sides of each of 3 cardboard gaskets

- do not smear the paste! it must look like a rubber string

- leave gaskets 30 minutes to cure.

- install the 'sandwich' of gaskets and do NOT overtighten the screws. try to screw them as even as possible.

 

try to be methodical.

do not hurry up. each step is important.

the reward will be a smooth idle.

good luck!

  • Author
hello
 
dohnjoe friend
 
I did exactly what you said gave him first with sandpaper all na thick sand with fine sandpaper after I put silicon made ??the sandwich but now there is a failure ..
 
 the second stage comes when it wants sometimes hard sometimes not .
 
 the car has a low 800 without relenty ( had never seen my car so ) encantaaaaaa me
 
the second estapa diaframa the sounds and you suck . clack clack
 
you put a super- tight hose.
 
accelerated depth and does not come but if I do go hand pushing forward as hard but it takes two seconds to go when fully accelerated , after that all right if I let the car cool down time or accelerate hard without afond , not re-enter until the second stage and then come back with hand accelerated depth and has a 2-second delay not to do ?
 
 
I have a friend with a combi skoda felicia 2000 carburetor and when its second stage waooooooo feels hard , I had never entered the second stage until yesterday ( my car was a ferrari) please help !
========================================================


hola 
 
amigo dohnjoe 
 
hice exactamente lo que dijiste le di lija a todo primero con na lija gruesa después con una lija fina le puse silicon hice el sandwich pero ahora hay un fallo..
 
 la segunda etapa entra cuando quiere a veces entra  aveces no.
 
 el carro tiene una baja en 800 sin relenty  (nunca habia visto mi carro asi) me encantaaaaaa
 
el diaframa de la segunda estapa los succionas y suena . clack clack
 
le coloque una mangera super ajustada.
 
acelero a fondo y no entra pero si la hago entrar con la mano empujando la hacia adelante entra pero demora como 2 segundo para entrar cuando acelero a fondo, después de eso todo bien si dejo que el carro se enfrie o duro rato sin acelerar afondo, no vuelve a entrar la segunda etapa hasta que vuelva y la haga entrar con la mano acelero a fondo y tiene un retraso de 2 segundos no se que hacer?
 
 
tengo un amigo con una skoda felicia combi 2000 carburador y cuando su segunda etapa  entra  se siente waooooooo, nunca me habia entrado la segunda etapa hasta ayer  (mi carro era un ferrari) por favor ayuda!!!
  • Author
Saludos
 
gracias  hermano  me sirvio de mucho el post 
 
tengo un falla en el distribuido cuando succiono no se mueve, pero si con el desarmado muevo las cruz  que deben moverse se sientes como succionando fuerte , pero si chupo no pasa nada se siente como si estuviera tapado...
 
aqui viene mi duda estara trancado el distribuidor o el diafragma esta dañado?
 
 
 pense comprar el diafragma ya que es mas barato que el distribuidor lo que no se es como montarlo... 
 
gracias anticipadas
 
 
=======================================================================
 
regards 
 
thanks brother served me well the post 
 
I have a fault in the distributed suck when not moving, but with disarming move the cross to be moved will feel like sucking strong, but if nothing happens suck it feels as if covered ... 
 
here comes my question will be lockout retailers or diaphragm is damaged? 
 
 
  pense buy the diaphragm because it is cheaper than what the dealer is not as mounting ...
 
thanks in advance

 

you can not buy ONLY the diaphragm for vacuum advance. you have to buy the entire distributor.

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