That's a lot of grunt! Any more updates on the 150ps model?

 

I've ordered a 150ps 4x4 Elegance and will be quite tempted with one of these at some point, although may run it in for 6 months first and then I'll have a good idea of its MPG before / after. I'm hoping with having the haldex 4x4 that the extra power should be usable almost all the time as traction should be a lot better from a standstill

How's the traction with that sort of torque? I guess you really need to watch your right foot in 1st and 2nd...

That's a lot of grunt! Any more updates on the 150ps model?

 

I've ordered a 150ps 4x4 Elegance and will be quite tempted with one of these at some point, although may run it in for 6 months first and then I'll have a good idea of its MPG before / after. I'm hoping with having the haldex 4x4 that the extra power should be usable almost all the time as traction should be a lot better from a standstill

No more updates on the 150 at this time, but id love to experience this car with a 4x4 set up..

 

As for traction Tudor, you have to keep tight rein over your right foot but it is very manageable.

So, Map 3 + 1 is more powerful than Map 4 + 1 Ha Ha, go figure, mind you its not a bad thing seeing as your car still won't run in Map 4 + 3 LOL

Just like life Andrew "Its NOT fair"

Regards

T

No more updates on the 150 at this time, but id love to experience this car with a 4x4 set up..

 

Car due in 12 - 16 weeks apparently, will be a while before I have an actual build week I guess... waiting for a car is no fun at all, do not envy the vRS people waiting 6 months!!

 

Is the dyno you use 4wd compatible? I'm sure I could arrange to meet up and do a before/after dyno run when I get a box and let you have a spin in it You're based up in Durham right?

It's a 4wd dyno based in Northallerton

It's a 4wd dyno based in Northallerton

 

That's about a 90 mile drive up the A1 from me, so that would work quite well I will let you know when my car arrives, should be June / July hopefully!

Cool, if we're heading back to the dyno I'll let you know

Interested in seeing dyno results fo the 4x4...

I have a dtuk box in my mk2 vrs tdi and can certainly feel the difference, is this compatible with the mk3 150hp diesel? of is a new loom and new software required?

Hi Andy, have you had any probs with regening the DPF at all in your VRS as I had a mare with my Mk 5 Golf GT TDi PD 170 when it was remapped to 211BHP and 338lb/ft.

I'm an automotive engineer and understand why Manufacturers run their diesels lean to keep them clean (read much less diesel smoke) but with a DPF fitted I couldn't see how much extra soot my richer engine map produced. All i do know is that the Regens became much more regular even with a daily 60mile commute on fast A Roads and Motorways. I couldnt afford the extra fuel and the many 20min runs to clean the DPF so eventually removed the map.

I considered a DPF removal but didn't go that route as diesel smoke is horrible stuff to pass on to everyone else. (Before anyone asks why I didn't attempt to regen during my commute, I did many a time but doing it became ever more frequent and as the normal passive regen wasn't good enough, active was the only effective option). On the removal of the map the regening cycle virtually disappeared and my DPF went on holiday. I sold the car with 55k miles on the clock due to increase in family.

So back to my question, have you found yourself doing more regents than pre-remap era as I would be interested in a box when my warranty runs out?

I must also say that your power & torque numbers look great, just hoping that they (Skoda/VAG) will consider fitting the Bi-turbo 2.0tdi to the Octi 3 as that re-mapped would be awesome in 4x4 guise.

Hi guyz ,Im from India & i own a octavia mk 3 2.0l TDI 150 ps ,Thanks to Andrew@DTUK for his help and timely reply and support ,got the dtuk kit delivered in India , it took just 5 mins to fit it and 1 word is WOWW! what a transformation , my baby revs like a petrol ,no turbo lag . friends are all impressed and one of em even ordered one for his 1.6 TDI.. enjoying my ride , 

   if you floor it in 1 st & 2nd it spins & traction symbol appears , even that's a lot of fun , it gets  up to speeds effortlessly. thanks to Andrew@DTUK & briskoda members for making me aware of dtuk..

That's good customer feedback

Hi Andy, have you had any probs with regening the DPF at all in your VRS as I had a mare with my Mk 5 Golf GT TDi PD 170 when it was remapped to 211BHP and 338lb/ft.

I'm an automotive engineer and understand why Manufacturers run their diesels lean to keep them clean (read much less diesel smoke) but with a DPF fitted I couldn't see how much extra soot my richer engine map produced. All i do know is that the Regens became much more regular even with a daily 60mile commute on fast A Roads and Motorways. I couldnt afford the extra fuel and the many 20min runs to clean the DPF so eventually removed the map.

I considered a DPF removal but didn't go that route as diesel smoke is horrible stuff to pass on to everyone else. (Before anyone asks why I didn't attempt to regen during my commute, I did many a time but doing it became ever more frequent and as the normal passive regen wasn't good enough, active was the only effective option). On the removal of the map the regening cycle virtually disappeared and my DPF went on holiday. I sold the car with 55k miles on the clock due to increase in family.

So back to my question, have you found yourself doing more regents than pre-remap era as I would be interested in a box when my warranty runs out?

I must also say that your power & torque numbers look great, just hoping that they (Skoda/VAG) will consider fitting the Bi-turbo 2.0tdi to the Octi 3 as that re-mapped would be awesome in 4x4 guise.

I had a mapped PD170 and it constantly coked up the dpf. In the end I had the dpf removed by Shark and all was fine.

 

The CR170s are a lot better in terms of coking up but apparently the CR150 regenerates constantly. I complained to SKoda at the 40K service last week that my CR150  feels like it is regenerating constantly and running slightly rough, and was told it WAS regenerating the DPF constantly, and that was what these engines are designed to do..

They may be designed to burn off soot all the time once it's up to temp, but an active regeneration certainly isn't happening all the time.

I've noticed mine doing a regen probably half a dozen times in nearly six months.

I had a mapped PD170 and it constantly coked up the dpf. In the end I had the dpf removed by Shark and all was fine.

The CR170s are a lot better in terms of coking up but apparently the CR150 regenerates constantly. I complained to SKoda at the 40K service last week that my CR150 feels like it is regenerating constantly and running slightly rough, and was told it WAS regenerating the DPF constantly, and that was what these engines are designed to do..

Active regents are fuel hungry affairs so the garage are bull**ting you.

A car should never need active if it is normally doing suitably DPF friendly driving. The active regen is only there to fix a driver/driving journey /traffic induced problem out and hence uses lots of extra fuel to complete.

The Doc above is correct,!i reckon your dealer is chumping you but you are now better informed because of us! What I would say is don't use Tesco/asda etc fuel as it is pants. I never had probs on Shell or ARAL fuel with my Superb, but go back to UK and fill up with Tesco's cheapest and the car was a dog for the whole tank. Think it was spoilt on the higher qual fuel. I've noticed this prob on all my DPF cars as we'll so now steer clear of the supermarket pit stop by law!

Don't know bout you, but I loved my 170Pd when remapped, but as you said it's DPF most certainly didn't!!

Cool, if we're heading back to the dyno I'll let you know

Dont want to bother you Andy, but could you please (time permitting) answer my question a few post above about DPF REGENS and your remapped Octy3?

Cheers

John

Dont want to bother you Andy, but could you please (time permitting) answer my question a few post above about DPF REGENS and your remapped Octy3?

Cheers

John

Hi john

I no longer run the Skoda, but when I was running it I didn't notice any additional dpf regens with the box fitted.

Several golf owners have mentioned that they have seen fewer with the box fitted

To completely dismiss all regens without resorting to a DPF removal you need to "drive it like you just stole it".

Regards

T

Hi Andrew 

 

Hi john

I no longer run the Skoda, but when I was running it I didn't notice any additional dpf regens with the box fitted.

Several golf owners have mentioned that they have seen fewer with the box fitted

 

 

Hi Andrew 1.6 tdi , let me know

Dont want to bother you Andy, but could you please (time permitting) answer my question a few post above about DPF REGENS and your remapped Octy3?

Cheers

John

I didn't get any noticeable additional regens either.

My 2.0 150 regens alot at 6.5k miles; always drives fine and hasnt caused any problems as yet though.

Active regents are fuel hungry affairs so the garage are bull**ting you.

A car should never need active if it is normally doing suitably DPF friendly driving. The active regen is only there to fix a driver/driving journey /traffic induced problem out and hence uses lots of extra fuel to complete.

The Doc above is correct,!i reckon your dealer is chumping you but you are now better informed because of us! What I would say is don't use Tesco/asda etc fuel as it is pants. I never had probs on Shell or ARAL fuel with my Superb, but go back to UK and fill up with Tesco's cheapest and the car was a dog for the whole tank. Think it was spoilt on the higher qual fuel. I've noticed this prob on all my DPF cars as we'll so now steer clear of the supermarket pit stop by law!

Don't know bout you, but I loved my 170Pd when remapped, but as you said it's DPF most certainly didn't!!

It isnt active regen- the light has never come on, no limp mode, nothing. 

It just feels like a passive regen with slightly retarded injection timing causing the engine to sound a bit rough

It isnt active regen- the light has never come on, no limp mode, nothing.

It just feels like a passive regen with slightly retarded injection timing causing the engine to sound a bit rough

Have you ever noticed your car idling higher than normal (1000rpm) at the traffic lights, then the car has started an active regen cycle itself because the passive cycle regen isn't getting the DPF hot enough to burn off the soot. If you are only doing short journeys or inner city driving where loads on the engine are low, the DPF will struggle.

When a pressure differential across the DPF is detect by the ECU (caused by the soot saturation reaching a pre-determined level) using various sensors available to it, the ECU actively tries to assist the DPF passive regen by injecting fuel after the power stroke which sends burning fuel directly intot the DPF. This is now an active cycle as the car is having to manage the regen itself by doing something abnormal. Most of the time this intervention by the ECU is enough to bring the soot levels back down into the safe zone, and go back to the passive (fuel friendly) cycle. And, normally most drivers never notice including me.

If however you unwittingly finish your journey and the automated active cycle is not complete, the ECU will try again on the next trip multiple times until it decides that it cannot complete it by itself. If however the driver continuously interferes with this repeated automated active cycle with short trips or by driving in heavy traffic, (& soot levels have reached a dangerous /but not unsalvageable level) then the DPF light is illuminated on the dash).

At this point, most drivers would consult their handbook if they didn't know what the light was or what to do. It would tell them that the Active cycle needs the driver to assist it by providing the DPF with favourable regen conditions, ie driving at X mph in X gear / with engine revs between xxxx & XXXX for a set period of time. Without this assistance the DPF will clog and the car will go into limp home mode. That is truly your last chance as only a dealer can sort it now.

I have to take my current car out for a blast once, sometimes twice a month to clear the DPF. I only do this when I have noticed the car idling higher than normal (& not due to running aircon etc). As the majority of our driving is around town, we do not provide the car favourable conditions for a good passive regen cycle. So, a 10 min 120mph blast up the autobahn always sorts it right out as the engine is on song and providing loads of exhaust heat 700*C+ which is very favourable for a passive /active regen. I've seen my engine oil temp on the maxi dot read 126*C, so the engine is defo v hot!

Only once have I seen the DPF light on in 3k miles with this car. That was when my wife said that the car was loud (engine fan blasting away after she had switched off) & a light had come on. I put my shoes on and took her to the autobahn with rattly nerves, because the next step is limp home mode & a possibly costly trip to the dealers after a tow home. My DPF lasted 3mths in my Golf 5 (pre remap) before failing. It's light came on on a short trip to KFC & by the time I had got there it clicked straight into limp home mode. That is why I do not wait for the light before assisting the car, if it starts idling high I set a plan for a autobahn / A rd blast right away.

In Germany, the dealers ask you what type of driving you do most, & strongly advise you not to have a diesel if they believe it is highly likely that your driving routes and style will kill the DPF very early. They then sell you a small petrol car as that is has no DPF to clog & is cheaper to buy as well.

DPF's are a necessary evil, I have seriously considered a petrol vRS next time as this car was a nightmare regener in its first 2000miles (due to our driving habits / I cycle to work) but it has since run in and only bothers us one or two times a month now.

I need to stop writing essays and go to bed. I hope I have assisted some ppl with DPF regening and the signs to look out for every day you drive.

Sleep time zzzzzzz

Have you ever noticed your car idling higher than normal (1000rpm) at the traffic lights, then the car has started an active regen cycle itself because the passive cycle regen isn't getting the DPF hot enough to burn off the soot. If you are only doing short journeys or inner city driving where loads on the engine are low, the DPF will struggle.

When a pressure differential across the DPF is detect by the ECU (caused by the soot saturation reaching a pre-determined level) using various sensors available to it, the ECU actively tries to assist the DPF passive regen by injecting fuel after the power stroke which sends burning fuel directly intot the DPF. This is now an active cycle as the car is having to manage the regen itself by doing something abnormal. Most of the time this intervention by the ECU is enough to bring the soot levels back down into the safe zone, and go back to the passive (fuel friendly) cycle. And, normally most drivers never notice including me.

If however you unwittingly finish your journey and the automated active cycle is not complete, the ECU will try again on the next trip multiple times until it decides that it cannot complete it by itself. If however the driver continuously interferes with this repeated automated active cycle with short trips or by driving in heavy traffic, (& soot levels have reached a dangerous /but not unsalvageable level) then the DPF light is illuminated on the dash).

At this point, most drivers would consult their handbook if they didn't know what the light was or what to do. It would tell them that the Active cycle needs the driver to assist it by providing the DPF with favourable regen conditions, ie driving at X mph in X gear / with engine revs between xxxx & XXXX for a set period of time. Without this assistance the DPF will clog and the car will go into limp home mode. That is truly your last chance as only a dealer can sort it now.

I have to take my current car out for a blast once, sometimes twice a month to clear the DPF. I only do this when I have noticed the car idling higher than normal (& not due to running aircon etc). As the majority of our driving is around town, we do not provide the car favourable conditions for a good passive regen cycle. So, a 10 min 120mph blast up the autobahn always sorts it right out as the engine is on song and providing loads of exhaust heat 700*C+ which is very favourable for a passive /active regen. I've seen my engine oil temp on the maxi dot read 126*C, so the engine is defo v hot!

Only once have I seen the DPF light on in 3k miles with this car. That was when my wife said that the car was loud (engine fan blasting away after she had switched off) & a light had come on. I put my shoes on and took her to the autobahn with rattly nerves, because the next step is limp home mode & a possibly costly trip to the dealers after a tow home. My DPF lasted 3mths in my Golf 5 (pre remap) before failing. It's light came on on a short trip to KFC & by the time I had got there it clicked straight into limp home mode. That is why I do not wait for the light before assisting the car, if it starts idling high I set a plan for a autobahn / A rd blast right away.

In Germany, the dealers ask you what type of driving you do most, & strongly advise you not to have a diesel if they believe it is highly likely that your driving routes and style will kill the DPF very early. They then sell you a small petrol car as that is has no DPF to clog & is cheaper to buy as well.

DPF's are a necessary evil, I have seriously considered a petrol vRS next time as this car was a nightmare regener in its first 2000miles (due to our driving habits / I cycle to work) but it has since run in and only bothers us one or two times a month now.

I need to stop writing essays and go to bed. I hope I have assisted some ppl with DPF regening and the signs to look out for every day you drive.

Sleep time zzzzzzz

most of my driving is motorway. I do 30,000 miles/year