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Polo Oil Consumption...

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What is this page and why don't you believe that it is accurate in relation to the DSG & ECU change?

 

ps - I suspect that this page is a New Zealand one, is accurate for the UK, has been known about on this forum for a long time but is kept secret for some strange reason.

 

This is the page I used:

 

http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/recalls

 

Not sure if there is an equivalent for New Zeland, it may redirect you based on your IP.

 

Just got off the phone to VW and even though I mentioned all the work that is done to the Polo GTIs to sort the issue the "service advisor" couldn't say that this is what they do even though we are now in 2015  :D . So I am booked in for next Wednesday to drop the car off for a check...

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  • the mad monk
    the mad monk

    my dealer was going to charge me an admin fee for their car whilst they had mine in, i then asked them were i was to send the invoice for the use of MY vehicle and fuel whilst they tested it was ok, a

  • What method are you using the check the level- Cold/hot/warm? Starting to think the 'up to temperature' advise from Skoda is a load of nonsense and actually a cold dip is much more accurate.

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vxh26,  what are you on about now?

 

Not all DQ200 from 2009-2014 have Synthetic Oil in,  or require the Service Campaign Field Actions,  or will need it,

but it is worth checking, because the Available VIN checkers are not Accurate.

*Then if the car is in having this done, there is no excuse for VW UK to not pay to check the Oil Use.*

 

A recent meet of a number of Twincharger Owners was very revealing in the Inconsistency of Treatment from Customer Services & Dealers in the UK.

Types of Engine, ECU's, MAPS / Engine Management in some of the 3,000 UK vRS from 2010-2014.

 

Quite a variety of ECU's in the Engine Compartments as Supplied by VW.

This is the page I used:

 

http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/recalls

<snip>

Nope, there is a different page that ONLY tells you whether you need to have the oil changed in the DSG (as a precaution for potential problems in hot climates) and the ECU updated.

 

I can't locate it at the moment and am just off to a meeting but if George will not deign to mention it, I will try to find it later - sorry :(

http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/apps

This is where Official UK Racalls are found.

Manufacturers get Registered Keepers Details to contact them and Recall Affected or possibly affected by Safety Critical items.

 

Manufacturers Recalls / Service Campaigns are totally different, might miss many Owner / Keeper / Drivers where the Dealer / Manufacturers Computer 

does not have Contact Details, 

& even when cars  /  Drivers are in for Work / Services the Computer or Staff can sometimes fail to make the person aware that Service Campaign / Manufacturers Recall work is required.  or on TPI's etc.

As has been happening with the DSG Service Campaign.

Often the Computer System is not Accurate on the OEM,  or Past Work Carried out, previous Clutch Pack / MCU / Oil Replacements and which Fluid is in the DSG.

 

PS

The VOSA Recall Site will show the Recall on the 1.2 55kw Diesel Roomster & Fabia 2011-2014 that might need to go in for remedial work.

All UK Registered Keeper should already have been contacted by Skoda UK and their vehicle Recalled if in the Affected Build Series.

Edited by goneoffSKi

What happened after this:

 

Skoda should certainly be ensuring that you have at least one years warranty if they have replaced the engine but why on earth would you expect NOT to pay for your next service?

if you would actually read and not flame everyone on briskoda you would see that the chap above me who had his engine replaced got an extended warranty a free service next time he pops his car in and cruise control retro fitted why should one person get showered with good will gestures and others not ?

Just for visual reference, I went to check the oil level after work and this is the difference between me checking it on the day I topped it up:

 

post-130534-0-60728600-1432142753_thumb.jpg

 

After:

 

post-130534-0-62580600-1432142767_thumb.jpg

 

Mileage when topping up was 26162 miles and mileage when checking is 26582 which is a difference of 420.

 

Is that a sign of excessive use or am i being crazy lol  :p

 

Also, my manual states 1 Ltr per 2000km which is 1242 miles so if in the next 420 or less miles the light comes on then it would be below that?

 

post-130534-0-26476100-1432142976_thumb.jpg

 

This came from this manual:

 

post-130534-0-48811800-1432142979_thumb.jpg

Edited by Xeon5

Just for visual reference, I went to check the oil level after work and this is the difference between me checking it on the day I topped it up:

 

attachicon.gifDipstickBefore.jpg

 

After:

 

attachicon.gifDipstickAfter.jpg

 

Mileage when topping up was 26162 miles and mileage when checking is 26582 which is a difference of 420.

 

Is that a sign of excessive use or am i being crazy lol  :p

 

Also, my manual states 1 Ltr per 2000km which is 1242 miles so if in the next 420 or less miles the light comes on then it would be below that?

 

attachicon.gifMileage.jpg

 

This came from this manual:

 

attachicon.gifmanual edition.jpg

mine isn't supping any oil so i would think yours is excessively drinking oil if mine doesnt touch the stuff ? :) :)

mine isn't supping any oil so i would think yours is excessively drinking oil if mine doesnt touch the stuff ? :) :)

 

Have you had any work done to yours or did you get the 1 in a million engine which didn't have an oilaholic in the engine?  :D

Have you had any work done to yours or did you get the 1 in a million engine which didn't have an oilaholic in the engine?  :D

engine replacement mate fight for it buddy 

engine replacement mate fight for it buddy 

 

And that fixed the issue? As i've heard that it always doesn't and your most likely to get another problem.

How are you checking the OIl,  a Hot Check after the oil has been to 80*oC  then stopped for 4-5 minutes.

 

Do a Cold Check.

Stone Cold Engine in the Morning. 

Oil should be above the top of the Cross Hatch when cold,  between the Top of the Cross Hatch and the Top Orange Marker.

 

Then when you have covered at least 10 miles, or as far as you are going try a Hot Check, that is at normal operating temperature.

Next time a Cold Check, know where the oil is before a journey.

 

Does it have in 5w 30  or 5w 40 Full Synthetic to VW504 00  or VW502 00,    & do you have the latest Silver VW / Audi Oil Filter fitted.

The check I did today was stone cold after the car has been stood still since Sunday. Some weeks I don't use the car much as I don't use it for work. 

 

So I should do a check after driving it for 10 miles then wait 5 minutes?

 

As far as I know it is 5w30 and it has a VW silver oil filter. 

At least 10 miles in Summer weather if doing a Hot Check.

 

?

Does your Polo Owners Manual say ,  'Check at operating temperature'.   ?   Skoda Manual has 'warm' , its a translation error.

 

If you do a Cold Check, 

then you can just start the cars engine and stop again right away.

That put the Oil in the Filter & in the Head, and might give you the same level on the Dip Stick as a Hot Check.

 

?
When was the last Oil & Filter Service done,

& is there an Invoice to show what Oil was used, and what quantity?

At least 10 miles in Summer weather if doing a Hot Check.

 

?

Does your Polo Owners Manual say ,  'Check at operating temperature'.   ?   Skoda Manual has 'warm' , its a translation error.

 

If you do a Cold Check, 

then you can just start the cars engine and stop again right away.

That put the Oil in the Filter & in the Head, and might give you the same level on the Dip Stick as a Hot Check.

 

?

When was the last Oil & Filter Service done,

& is there an Invoice to show what Oil was used, and what quantity?

 

I am not sure I will have to check the paper work.

 

I think I will wait until the actual light comes on and buy a bottle of oil ready just in case then I will see the true amount of mileage I am doing. 

If you get a yellow 'Low Oil' warning light or message the OIl might be between 1.3 - 1.5 litres low.

So be aware 1 litre might not be enough to top it up.

 

Some cars get the 'Low Oil Pressure' light before there is any Low Oil light or message, do not continue without topping up.

& be aware opening the bonnet can mean the light goes out, but can then come on again shortly after.

 

Do not overfill it, but be sure there is enough in with a cold dip.

If it needs Oil before you have used 1 tank of petrol or even 2 tanks, from doing cold dips, then it is using excessive oil.

 

The Owners Manual covers all the Engines, 3 & 4 Cylinder , Petrol & Diesel, 

& May Use as much as 1 litre in 2,000 km is nonsense and VW know that.

You are not Crossing High Mountain Passes in Summer towing a Caravan.

Just driving to work on UK roads.

Thats what i did last time. I filled it up slowly whilst cold and checking the dipstick.

I fill up once every two weeks and most the time it is at half a tank and since then im guessing ive filled up 3 or 4 times so about 2 tanks. Always use vpower or bp ultimate.

last time it never said low oil pressure just the levels were low. Is it safe to let the car get to that point? Will i cause damage or should i think about topping up?

Sorry for all the questions, i just want to understand the best i can.

No it is not a good idea to let it go to the Oil Warning Light or Message when it is 1/3rd or more below the capacity.

Best have the 3.6 Litres in the engine. 

Get an idea of the Cold Check level where all the oil is in the sump, and go by that,  the Oil will be at the top of Area A as seen in the hopeless 

diagram in the Owners Manual.

 

BP Ultimate is 97 RON Minimum in the UK.  Shell V-Power Nitro is 99 ron. 

If you are near maybe try Tesco Momentum which is 99 RON minimum.   Good stuff for a Twincharger.

No it is not a good idea to let it go to the Oil Warning Light or Message when it is 1/3rd or more below the capacity.

Best have the 3.6 Litres in the engine.

Get an idea of the Cold Check level where all the oil is in the sump, and go by that, the Oil will be at the top of Area A as seen in the hopeless

diagram in the Owners Manual.

BP Ultimate is 97 RON Minimum in the UK. Shell V-Power Nitro is 99 ron.

If you are near maybe try Tesco Momentum which is 99 RON minimum. Good stuff for a Twincharger.

Ok, im buying some oil tonight so i can top it up next week, not using the car until then.

There is a tesco which sells the Momentum 99 but its one of the busiest in the city so i just use vpower. Closer and actually 2 pence cheaper.

Shell V-Power for 2 pence a litre less than Tesco Momentum is rather rare.

Usually Momentum is 4-5 pence a litre cheaper than Nitro.

But the £2.50 a tank less is not the reason to buy it, it is usually better than Shell V-Power Nitro.

 

Momentum costs 5 pence a litre more than Tesco 95 Ron Unleaded,  

which is usually cheaper than Shell 95 Ron Unleaded unless there is a Price War going on.

 

http://petrolprices.com

Yeah it just depends on the garage really. The Shell i go to has always been quite reasonable as there is another shell 5 minutes away and its 5 pence more which is crazy.

I will try Momentum at some point.

Tried to get some oil tonight and all they had was cheap ASDA stuff and 0w40 Castrol Titanium.

Asda sell for £20,

5 litres of 5w 30

or for £16 5w 40.  It has to be to VW Spec & Fully Synthetic.

 

You want the Oil to the Spec,

VW 502 00 *5w 40* ,  Perfect for the Twincharger & changing every 10,000 miles or sooner & topping up.

or VW 504 00 / VW 507 00,  *5W 30*,  (Must use Long LIfe if doing Variable servicing.)

  It is using the correct oil that matters, not the Price of it.

 

 Castrol Edge or Quantum Long Life lll is expensive, that does not mean it is good or better, actually many cheaper oils

are better in a Twincharger, and have the Oil temperature lower and the Oil Consumption also lower.

Edited by goneoffSKi

Asda sell for £20,

5 litres of 5w 30

or for £16 5w 40.  It has to be to VW Spec & Fully Synthetic.

 

You want the Oil to the Spec,

VW 502 00 *5w 40* ,  Perfect for the Twincharger & changing every 10,000 miles or sooner & topping up.

or VW 504 00 / VW 507 00,  *5W 30*,  (Must use Long LIfe if doing Variable servicing.)

  It is using the correct oil that matters, not the Price of it.

 

 Castrol Edge or Quantum Long Life lll is expensive, that does not mean it is good or better, actually many cheaper oils

are better in a Twincharger, and have the Oil temperature lower and the Oil Consumption also lower.

 

 

Would this be good enough?

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/5w40-engine-oil/?521772211&0&cc5_248&gclid=COnHr5vx1MUCFWjMtAodx1wA2w 

Perfect. Good Price, good oil,  Asda was clearing that recently at £16 for 4 Litres.

Do not overfill,  but have enough in on a cold check.

Perfect. Good Price, good oil,  Asda was clearing that recently at £16 for 4 Litres.

Do not overfill,  but have enough in on a cold check.

 

What I am going to do is buy that and get my local garage to do a full engine oil change as its half way between servicing, that way I know exactly what oil is in the car.

whats the email address as according to skoda i have to pay for my next service ? and no extra warranty after my engine replacement :(

[email protected]

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