Just to clear this up for me...

Your using a 1.9 8v (standard?) bottom end with the 2.0 16v top end?

Are you doing similar to Stu and boring it out to 2.0 and using the BKD pistons etc?

 

 

Yes mate. My standard BLT bottom end is getting bored out to a 2 litre. I'll be using brand new BKD/BMN pistons and forged rods. I'm also planning on sending the new pistons away to get a ceramic coating to increase their fatigue life and thermal stress resistance. Might as well do it right and spend the money now!

Sounds good, I had managed to confuse myself in the process of just writing the above...

I thought Stu had a 2.0 bottom end and 1.9 top end

With you having a 1.9 bottom and 2.0 top, but rememberd his was just bored out not an actual 2.0 engine

Sounds good anyway, enjoying the updates

Do you not mean Southy? He has 2 litre bottom end just rebuilt.

 

The block is the same between the 1.9 and 2.0. Only difference being the bore and the casting being slightly differently for the two types of crank sensor. The BKD lump has 1.9/2.0 stamped on the rear of the block!

Edited 10 April, 201610 yr by alex_e3

Yeah that's right, I'll get my coat.

Apologise for the wrong names!

Not really been able to do much today. I've been stopped in my tracks for now with a lack of time and tools (have a load of work due in soon for my PGCE!). I did manage to spend a little bit down there today though.

 

Ok, so first up I rebuilt part of the bottom end for my current engine. I cleaned up all the bearings and bolted the crank back up along with its pulley. I made sure I was very clean and also used engine build lube just to make sure the crank doesn't get scratched doing this. All went back together nicely...

 

 

 

Next up, with the BMN engine locked in place, I removed the timing belt and the toothed section of the pulleys. Unfortunately, this is what has stopped play today. As I don't have a correct puller to get these pulleys off the camshafts without bashing the hell out of them - which I don't really want to have to do. So, the required tool is on order. I also removed the auxiliary bracket, which contains the extra timing belt roller pulley. This is what I was left with...

 

 

I'm hoping to be able to get the cylinder head off once the cam pulley removal tool arrives. I can then start to properly mock up the new combination of engine, and also get the cam sensor pickup plate sorted.

 

 

Here's a comparison of the auxiliary brackets between the BMN and BLT...

 

 

 

 

Both of these share the same bolt pattern, as it's the same block in essence. Hence I was able to bolt this bracket straight up to my BLT block.

 

Unfortunately, a new problem has developed, which I thought may happen. I compared the air con pumps between the two engines, and the one from the BMN was larger. Also, the bolt pattern was different. Here's what I found when offering my air con pump up to the bracket...

 

Bottom bolt in...

 

 

Top bolt miles out...

 

 

The third bolt at the side was even further out.

 

So... why don't I use the BMN pump you ask?! Unfortunately, the air con pipe connections on the BMN pump are in a different location (and angle) to my Fabia pump. Hence the pipework will likely be a massive pain to fit without changing and modifying. Plus I know that this bracket makes the pump stick out further, and there is not exactly an abundance of space as standard.

 

The solution... I am going to have to chop both brackets in half, then make a hybrid bracket by welding them back together. This will allow me to use my standard air con pump from the Fabia, and also keep the same location. I may have to use the BMN alternator, but there's a good chance that my Fabia one is the same dimensions and fitment (not checked yet). Which ever alternator I use, it will use the BMN location from the top half of the bracket which I'm keeping (due to the extra timing belt roller). I'm also keeping the BMN tensioner I think. As a result, I may have to get a custom auxiliary belt if the new position of the alternator doesn't allow me to get the belt on, or it doesn't generate enough tension.

 

That's it for now! Slow progress, but I'm in no rush.

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Just bin the A/C.

It just gets in the way half the time! :P

Ha ha I knew someone would suggest this

 

I really want to keep the air con to be honest. It was working perfectly. Plus the fact that the car will be a second car when it's finished, means that it'll be getting used mainly through the summer. So want to stay cool don't I

Was your suspension wound all the way down mate? And did you use different drop links?

I took the adjusters out of the back. The fronts have a fair few turns before they're at the bottom.

Ah ok cool. Do you get uneven tyre wear at all? Mine started to wear the inside edges a little bit and I'm not even that low!

Sorry Charlie - didn't realise that I hadn't replied to this!

 

No uneven tyre wear that I can see! Oh and standard drop links are fine for the KW's.

Give us a better update than that! i want more pictures of turbos and engines in pieces, or even better... built up!

Ok, so very busy with work again lately, so been unable to get anything done. Managed to make some progress the last week though...

 

 

First off, finally managed to get the pulleys off the tapered keyway. They were very tough to get off - had to get the puller on them and then hit them from behind to remove them...

 

 

Got the head off at last, removed the camshaft retaining plate (bolted down on these engines). Removed the PPD injectors ready to be sold. Had a good visual check of the head, and it looks to be in great condition!...

 

 

More parts stacking up...

 

 

I found that the head bolts are strange on these. The bolts themselves have a thread in the top of them, for the rockers to bolt onto. I'm planning on buying a stud and nut kit. So will be interesting to see how they are integrated into that design.

 

Block itself looked in good nick inside. Not that it matters, as I won't be using it! Just good to know that there weren't any obvious signs of any failures...

 

 

 

So, today I finally looked at relocating the cam pickup plate. Kev (coskev) gave me a hand to do all of the following - so a big thanks to him!

 

First off, I locked both cylinder heads back into their TDC position...

 

 

Next up, I removed the right hand pulley from the BMN head. The right pulley is the one with the camshaft pickup ring on. The plate on the back of this was useless for my build, so the spot welds were drilled out and the plate removed...

 

 

 

 

After a fair bit of deliberation on our plan of attack, we decided to fit the cam sensor into its position, then put a straight edge up against both sides of it. Then make two marks on the cam pickup plate...

 

 

 

 

The pickup plate was then removed from the 8v pulley. Took a large drill and a bit of force, but it came free in the end...

 

 

 

I had to carefully straighten up the plate with a hammer after the struggle to remove it.

 

 

Due to the pulley having to be rotated around, the slot in the plate for the locking pin was out of place. So we held the plate in place, marked up and drilled a hole in the plate...

 

 

All de-burred nicely and lines up spot on...

 

 

 

 

Next up was the tricky part. We centralised the plate onto the pulley as best as possible. Then, clamped it up and measured the distance from the edges to the pulley all the way round to ensure that the plate would turn on the pulley concentrically. Once we got within less than 0.5mm all round, a light scribe was made, so that the pulley could be centred properly.

 

I then put the plate behind the pulley, and fitted the pulley itself and locked it into TDC position. I then aligned the marks made previously, to ensure the plate was concentric, as well as the cam sensor marks being in the correct place. With everything now correctly aligned, final marks were made for welding, whilst holding it tight in place by hand...

 

 

Once removed from the cylinder head again, the pulley and plate were realigned by hand, checked with a vernier (took ages to get right!), then clamped up. The plate was then welded into position with a tack and checked. I was happy with the fit, so it was final welded and the welds ground back down...

 

 

 

Finally, the pulley was fitted again, then locked into TDC position. Here's the result...

 

 

 

Result!! I checked with a straight edge, and the cam sensor now picks up in exactly the same place as my 8v head. This should hopefully allow my ECU to have the correct engine position readings, and hence be able to fuel the engine correctly.

 

I aimed to get the accuracy of this to within half a degree. So that cam timing can be seen correctly by VCDS. I'm very happy with the result and confident that we've achieved this

 

 

Next up, I need to mock up the engine. Then create a custom hybrid alternator bracket, so that I can fit the timing belt roller. After that, it should be fairly plan sailing! Famous last words...!!

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Give us a better update than that! i want more pictures of turbos and engines in pieces, or even better... built up!

 

Ask and you shall receive!!!

Edited 21 May, 201610 yr by alex_e3

Brilliant update!

hope it all comes together in the end and works as you plan.

Thanks mate!

 

Hopefully it'll all be able to run fine now  This was probably the most crucial part of getting it to run correct.

Sorry Charlie - didn't realise that I hadn't replied to this!

No uneven tyre wear that I can see! Oh and standard drop links are fine for the KW's.

Ok thanks mate

Must be something up with mine then :/

Ok thanks mate

Must be something up with mine then :/

 

Have you had it tracked lately? May have wear on some bushes possibly?...

Bit more done this evening.

 

Started to do a mock run of the new engine. Popped the head on with the old head gasket and head bolts. Didn't tighten them much,as there's no point. top pulleys locked in place...

 

 

 

Next thing for me to be looking at is the large alternator bracket that bolts to the block. The BMN alternator plate has to be used to a degree, because it holds another timing belt roller wheel (as can be seen the pics). I checked to see if my BLT alternator will fit the bracket. As it happens, it bolts on perfectly...

 

 

The problem child here is the air conditioning pump. I want to keep my air con, but if I used the BMN pump, it would not fit my connections on the car. The BLT pump does not fit this bracket in this location...

 

 

Here's the BLT air con pump location. See how it makes the pump sit much closer to the block...

 

 

 

 

I did a bit of measuring to see what my options were. Luckily, if I make up a hybrid bracket, then my BLT air con pump will easily fit onto the block with enough room for everything else. More crucially, the pump will line up nicely with the BMN tensioner and the alternator...

 

 

 

So... next thing to do, will be to cut the original bracket just above where the air con pump bolts onto. Cut the BMN bracket around the same place. Then weld them together. Another job that will take a while, but shouldn't be too bad.

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Cracking job mate. Alot of measuring to get everything to work correctly. Looking forward to some more updates

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Coming together nicely

More awesomeness  

 

Really looking forward to seeing this complete, but also more work being done

Great work there bud

Spent a while down the unit today. Took on another job that I've not been looking forward to... the custom alternator bracket.

 

So, first off I examined where abouts I needed to cut the standard alternator bracket. The purpose was so that I could fit my standard air conditioning pump. I cut the bracket roughly where I wanted, them ground it down further with the grinder. Then to finish I filed it and de-burred the edges...

 

 

Next up was to cut the top part of the bracket. I cut it less than I needed to on purpose just in case. Spent the next 1 1/2 hours grinding and filing it down to shape. End result...

 

 

 

 

Result of all this is that my standard air con pump now fits in the standard location. The alternator fits in the BMN location, and I use the BMN tensioner...

 

 

 

Now that the bracket is on, I could fit the extra roller to it and mock time the engine up properly. Pleased to say that all went well! Plus it turns out that the standard BMN auxiliary belt is spot on!

 

 

Pleased with the progress. Made a right mess with the cast aluminium dust though! Next step is for me to strip the engine down completely. The block and new bracket is then going to a professional welder so that they can TIG weld the bracket in-situ. Doing this will ensure a perfect fit still. As otherwise it may warp slightly due to the heat, hence not fit again.

 

Once that's done, the block will be off for Adam (Southy) to bore out to 2 litre

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Good work Alex progress is coming along nicely, be worth all the hard work in the end