bkd also had issues with oil/fuel mixing

Ok, so managed to get round to starting the car today without the turbo connected. Plugged the oil return, popped the oil feed in a tub, topped the oil up and started her up briefly. It's quite difficult to tell to be honest, but upon inspection there appears to be zero oil coming from any of the exhaust ports.

 

I also think I've found the source of the problem. The oil return was done this time with a 90 degree pipe connector so that it takes the kink out of the pipe. Upon taking it off I found this...

 

 

Seems that the connector must have not been able to stand the heat and has turned in on itself somewhat. I would imagine that this has caused a build up of oil pressure in the turbo and caused the seals to go pop.

 

I'm pretty sure it's the seals, because the TIP had a fair bit of oil in. The only place other than the turbo that it could've come from is the catch can. However, on close inspection the catch can didn't have any oil inside it or any evidence of it in the top pipe.

 

So next step is to hook a standard turbo up to it (borrow one off Southy hopefully!) and see how the engine runs with that attached. Then I'll look at getting the turbo rebuilt with new seals and get it back up and running

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Yeah that looks bad.

I've done two GTBs and bought darksides oil return kit now. Pricey but it's the right part for the job and avoids things like this.

Without being a brown nose... Since its darksides you sort of know it's going to be high quality and won't fail.

Edited 25 January, 201610 yr by hutchysrs50

Mine is one of the rare 2260 conversions running a cast manifold - don't tend to see many about. Hence the turbo return sits far lower down than the standard turbo. Hence trying to make the oil return work with a single piece of rubber hose was not going to work due to it kinking. That's why I put a 90 degree connector in.

 

Darkside's return is in essence the same thing as just fitting a piece of hose on the original ends. With the exception that it's swaged on at turbo end. You'd still get the same kinking.

 

So I'm probably going to find a company who'll make me up a proper oil return with swaged connections either end and a braid in between.

Good to hear its not likely the actual engine that has given up.  It's a rarity to be fair on these engines.   Mine should have gone ages ago

 

I am still interested in the technicalities of the BKD complete conversion as I gathered it was very tough indeed, which is why (when I am in a scenario of new bottom end needed) I am going to just bore the 1.9 block and use the 2.0 pistons.   BHW ones I gather are the ones to use.

Cheers Jase. Yes that was my thoughts too, and the car appeared to break when it was under boost. So my initial thoughts were the turbo.

 

The mechanics aren't the problem with the BKD conversion. It's the electrics that pose the issue. The BKD engine has a different location for both the cam sensor and crank sensor. Hence the ECU needs the correct triggers for it to inject fuel properly. The way I was looking at doing it was to mate the BKD head to a rebored ASZ/BLT bottom end. That way you could keep the standard crank sensor which would pick up exactly the same as before. The problem then lies with the camshaft sensor. There is very roughly a 45 degree difference in position of the cam sensor between the ASZ/BLT and BKD engines. Therefore you need to remove the pickup plate from the back of the camshaft pulley, rotate the correct amount accurately, and re-weld it on. This way, the standard ECU is in essence picking up on the same speed and TDC readings as the old engine.

 

After this, it's just taking across the injector maps to our ECU for the BKD Bosch injectors which are compatible with our ECU.

 

Then it's just small exhaust modifications and boost pipework changes due to the inlet now being at the front.

All sounds too much for me. Wish you luck with it. I'm sticking with my head for now hence why I'll use it on a rebore bottom end.

Well, after much pondering and many emails & discussions since the turbo popped its seals, I've finally decided on a plan of attack to move forward with the car...

 

First off John (a.k.a. Faboka) is lending me an old turbo he has. I plan on fitting this to the car (apart from the exhaust downpipe, which is a different stud pattern) and running the car up, to 100% make sure the engine is ok (pretty damn sure it is!).

 

After that, my 2260 is getting sent off. The turbine snail will be machined out.... to fit a nice 2260vklr cartridge  I'll also be getting a 62mm 6+6 billet wheel fitted at the same time. It'll take a while before I get it back, but I have my runaround for now so not arsed. Plus it's winter so who cares! Fitting should hopefully be fairly straight forward. Just need to tap into the coolant lines as well, seeing as the turbo is also water cooled.

 

My thinking being the compressor wheel will allow more scope for a boost increase, but the ball bearings will allow a far quicker spool up than I even have at present. Should make the car far more drivable.

 

After that I'll be fitting nozzles and getting John to work his magic again  Depending on finances, a NPS cam may come into play too

 

Now... best get saving!

Edited 29 January, 201610 yr by alex_e3

Sounds like a very good setup!

Are you chasing Jason power now then? 

Im not all that clued up on what turbo can do what but is this going to be over 300bhp?

Well I'm thinking for now I would like to get the turbo sorted first, possibly nozzles too before it comes back on the road. There's the possibility of me getting a spare head and getting it worked, then fit with a cam later. Not sure if I will do that or not though if I'm honest.

 

Power wise, I'm hoping to get it closer to 300bhp with the extra boost and fuel that I will be able to throw at it. We shall see if the head does in fact prove too much of a restriction to get close to it. Good thing that the vklr's are typically stronger units. Plus with a billet wheel on board...

Edited 30 January, 201610 yr by alex_e3

Well I'm thinking for now I would like to get the turbo sorted first, possibly nozzles too before it comes back on the road. There's the possibility of me getting a spare head and getting it worked, then fit with a cam later. Not sure if I will do that or not though if I'm honest.

 

Power wise, I'm hoping to get it closer to 300bhp with the extra boost and fuel that I will be able to throw at it. We shall see if the head does in fact prove too much of a restriction to get close to it. Good thing that the vklr's are typically stronger units. Plus with a billet wheel on board...

Av a look at these Alex big bore plungers 9mm these would be good with nozzles helps keep the injection pressure http://www.h-turbo.de/14-pumpe-duse-elemente-big-bore youl need to translate the website though

What's that Patrick? Popped on there but can't see anything.

So... popped to the unit this weekend and fitted the turbo that John lent to me. Some connections were different, so just hooked up the turbo itself with oil feed and return, popped inlet manifold on with some the top pipework, then checked the oil and left it at that.

 

Started her up today, and the engine situation doesn't look good! When turning the car over first, it sounded like it was down a cylinder. Then when it was started it sounded the same. The engine was pretty violent in the engine bay and it was very lumpy, suggesting a misfire. Seemed to go away when revving it, but didn't want to leave it running for too long.

 

Once it was turned off I went underneath. Fairly large pool of oil on the floor considering it had only been running for about 30 seconds. Had a quick look and it appeared to be coming out of the turbo exhaust housing. This is odd, considering that the only connections are to the head itself and the oil connections - no TIP, boost hose or exhaust connections are on. So there's potentially been some huge pressure which has pushed the oil past the seals, or it's just simply burning oil due to a cracked piston or something along those lines. I did notice when it was running that the top clean hose off the catch can was throwing out some hefty pressure of air.

 

I will be cleaning the turbo and all that area when I'm properly down there next weekend again, and then running it again whilst being underneath so I can get a better look at where it's coming from, but I'm pretty convinced the engine is fubar. I'm planning on popping down tomorrow briefly after work and plugging in VCDS to see what codes are brought up - recently done a swap to Windows 10 on my laptop, so have only just put it back on this evening.

 

 

If the engine is knackered, I'll 100% be on the lookout for a donor BKD engine to do the 16v head conversion with all the bells and whistles

Edited 7 February, 201610 yr by alex_e3

Sorry to hear about the problems - but the fact you never give up with this car is very inspirational; most people would scrap the thing and give up. Good luck on getting it running again

Not sure if I should like that update or not. It's a shame it's happend but at least your positive on repairing it.

I'd suggest a basic compression test with the glow plugs out. Even take them out and do a visual inspection might give you a good idea what's going on in each cylinder.

Cheers both

 

Yeah I'm not going to give up on it. I've still spent a fortune on it and it's a really sorted car apart from the main part ha ha! Will be bigger and better when it hits the road next

 

I'm off work next week, so probably going to rip it out then. As something major is definitely wrong. Unfortunately I don't have a compression tester or a fibre optic scope to check it over, but it's pretty obvious something is amiss. To be honest, I'm more interested to learn what went wrong!

If you need a pair of hands give us a shout Alex!

just get the cylinder head whipped off and look at which piston has gone 

 

you need a diesel compression tester too

Edited 9 February, 201610 yr by silky16v

If you need a pair of hands give us a shout Alex!

 

Cheers pal! I'd probably just irritate the hell out of you with my OCD ways ha ha

 

 

 

just get the cylinder head whipped off and look at which piston has gone 

 

you need a diesel compression tester too

 

Defo looking that way pal. Yeah, I haven't got a petrol compression tester, let alone the adaptors for the diesel version!

Ok, so it's half-term and I'm off work for a lot of the week. Hence this happened today...

 

 

 

I spent a fair while stripping most things off. This is how I left it tonight...

 

 

 

 

I left it with just a few things to take off. I'll drain the oil next and then take the housing off so I can get the solid coolant pipe out too. Then gearbox off, then take the head off to inspect the damage. As above really, it's looking increasingly likely that I'll be finding a cracked piston. Hoping to get some time on it tomorrow. I'm under orders to fit an oil temp gauge and some other stuff to my other half's car! So will progress with mine if I can.

Edited 4 November, 20178 yr by alex_e3

Cheers pal! I'd probably just irritate the hell out of you with my OCD ways ha ha

I dunno - I'm pretty OCD myself.. :-)

Just a thought, more than likely pointless...

I read another thread recently about a Fabia wanting to know which engine he had fitted because it was swapped... Turns out it was a newer CR engine.

Not want to start setting the trend for a CR 170 conversion!

Dont want a cr170 if going for big power. [emoji23]

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I'm sure there's a few running over 300bhp happily as well, was just a thought :P

I'm sure there's a few running over 300bhp happily as well, was just a thought :p

 

Out of curiosity, do you have a link?! Not something I'd do personally, due to the no doubt complex ECU issues, but would definitely be worth a read!