This trolley jack group test may be of interest. Some decent priced jacks in there.

^ ^  That is not the suspension arm! --  see your link!!

Sorry?

 

The Yeti has independant multi-link rear suspension. There has been plenty of debate over the warning sticker and it's misleading reference to the 'rear axle beam' (not fitted to the Yeti) however the sticker is placed on the back side of the rear suspension arms as highlighted in yellow here...

 

 

Therefore it is advised not to use the rear suspension arms to jack up (or tie down) the car to avoid throwing out the calibration of the rear suspension.

Both Yeti's I've had have had the above mentioned warning sticker applied to the rear suspension arm.

Swapped my wheels a few weeks back. Trolly jack was 20 from lidl and torque wrench was 16 from aldi.

The jack plat is round with cross grooves cut in it, rotated 45 dregs and the sills sit quite nicely into the slots, a bit of old inner tube offerd enough protection so I didn't damage them.

Swapped my wheels a few weeks back. Trolly jack was 20 from lidl and torque wrench was 16 from aldi.

The jack plat is round with cross grooves cut in it, rotated 45 dregs and the sills sit quite nicely into the slots, a bit of old inner tube offerd enough protection so I didn't damage them.

 

Well you were very lucky as the weight is meant to be taken just behind the sill flange.  The flange is only meant to be a horizontal positioner with the load taken just inside it on the flat area.  If you check your jack that came with the car you will see where it sits.

Well you were very lucky as the weight is meant to be taken just behind the sill flange.  The flange is only meant to be a horizontal positioner with the load taken just inside it on the flat area.  If you check your jack that came with the car you will see where it sits.

 

Spot on, but you have to lie down in the road to see how it contacts the "floor" pressing on the inside of the vertical sill seam.

 

My local dealer just jacks under the vertical seam and scrapes the wax/ underseal off every time it goes in for service. I then have to re-instate the wax to protect the bare metal  .

 

I'm going to fabricate a little replica of the OEM jacking point to fit in the hole in my jack pad and try and avoid this. 

 

Like all safety questions, its a personal decision, I suppose the H&S Inspectorate never do anything practical, judging by their edicts to protect the rest of us!

I'm one of the H&S guys where i work (water utilities, dams, pump stations). One of the reasons I have the job is because I actually find practical solutions to problems that minimise risk my workmates lives. Sometimes it's worth 5 minutes of thought and extra work rather than blundering in with a high potential for injury.

It's not always about being a boil on the buttock of progress. Sometimes it's just changing a work process slightly or making some permanent modifications to a 50 year old piece of equipment. Often it's just about a shift in attitude - eg: Making people wear lifejackets when out on a reservoir - sure you can swim like a fish but maybe not if you've just had a heart attack & have your steel capped boots on.

Everyone puts crap on H&S initiatives until they have to appear in the coroners court.

 

If lifting height is an issue with a "normal" trolley jack, why not sit it across a a couple of pieces of 4x2 timber. This would not only raise the jack but increase the surface area in contact with the ground making it potentially more stable and less likely to sink into soft ground.

 

Colin

 

As you jack up a trolley jack the head of the jack stays stationary relative to the car & the base of the jack rolls across the floor. timber under the jack will stop it from rolling & will tend to pull the car towards the handle of the jack. Sometimes the car will move -especially on polished concrete. Othertimes the car will simply fall off the jack.

Timber packers under a scissor or bottle jack are really good though.

I doubt anyone would have an issue with lift height under normal circumstances. I've used one of these cheap & nasty things to change wheels as I think the std VW jack is a deathtrap. It worked well for the basic job required (taking off road tyres & fitting track tyres)

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00DvzQurjtqRbZ/Hydraulic-Floor-Jack-JQW-4-JQW-4S-.jpg

 

 

As you jack up a trolley jack the head of the jack stays stationary relative to the car & the base of the jack rolls across the floor. timber under the jack will stop it from rolling & will tend to pull the car towards the handle of the jack. Sometimes the car will move -especially on polished concrete. Othertimes the car will simply fall off the jack.

Timber packers under a scissor or bottle jack are really good though.

I doubt anyone would have an issue with lift height under normal circumstances. I've used one of these cheap & nasty things to change wheels as I think the std VW jack is a deathtrap. It worked well for the basic job required (taking off road tyres & fitting track tyres)

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00DvzQurjtqRbZ/Hydraulic-Floor-Jack-JQW-4-JQW-4S-.jpg

Thank you for the advice. If my jack [doubtful as similar to your attachment] lacks sufficient lift I will sit it on a long piece of 8x2 running lengthways to allow for the travel.

 

Colin

^ ^ ^  I also worked in the water industry, on the dirty side, Worcestershire, we had a boiler house explosion(methane , product of the digestion process), my responsibility was a safe investigation of the reasonand repair there to. My men were carefully excavating the environs of the site looking for said gas supply pipe(shut down)  --  the suits arrived from B/ham, Company safety officer included. After circulating the site and watching the slow progress, he decided to show the group how to do it, picking up a pick and attacking the hole, after 3 or 4 blows, he hit a major water main, we then had quite a feature of a huge fountain, needless to say he left site rather quickly shortly afterwards(egg on face I think)!

Just swapped over to my winter boots.
My trolley Jack with hockey puck worked perfectly.
Thanks to everyone for the tips and advice, appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

^ ^ ^  I also worked in the water industry, on the dirty side, Worcestershire, we had a boiler house explosion(methane , product of the digestion process), my responsibility was a safe investigation of the reasonand repair there to. My men were carefully excavating the environs of the site looking for said gas supply pipe(shut down)  --  the suits arrived from B/ham, Company safety officer included. After circulating the site and watching the slow progress, he decided to show the group how to do it, picking up a pick and attacking the hole, after 3 or 4 blows, he hit a major water main, we then had quite a feature of a huge fountain, needless to say he left site rather quickly shortly afterwards(egg on face I think)!

Lets face it, there are plenty of idiots out there no matter what their title.  Hopefully they can generally be avoided.

 

Plenty of numb-nuts have been moved sideways into WHS which gives the job a bad name.

^ ^ ^  I also worked in the water industry, on the dirty side, Worcestershire, we had a boiler house explosion(methane , product of the digestion process), my responsibility was a safe investigation of the reasonand repair there to. My men were carefully excavating the environs of the site looking for said gas supply pipe(shut down)  --  the suits arrived from B/ham, Company safety officer included. After circulating the site and watching the slow progress, he decided to show the group how to do it, picking up a pick and attacking the hole, after 3 or 4 blows, he hit a major water main, we then had quite a feature of a huge fountain, needless to say he left site rather quickly shortly afterwards(egg on face I think)!

bit like OFSTEAD inspectors then.... either never did the job themselves or were rubbish at it but think they know it all.

My 30 year old Hilka trolley jack worked perfectly today. Used a puck to protect the jacking point and a piece of 12 mm dowel to guide the wheels back on. I find the wooden dowel is kinder to the wheels and easier to steer the wheels on. All done in 30 minutes. Plus another 30 mins to clean dry and polish the standard wheels before storing.

I picked up a second hand set of 16" SKODA alloys so they are now on the car rather than the steelies which I sold.