CV joint and new rubber boot or just the rubber boot

[bmbmdmb]

Just cleaning car underneath and noticed grease drips on front left wheel from a split in outer CV joint boot near the inner crimp. Probably caused during timing belt change with engine hoisted up straining rubber boot on driveshaft and age related wear.

 

At 95k miles do I change the CV joint outer or just the rubber boot? I read CV joints do 70k to 130k miles. Reading on, I have to take the old CV joint outer out before fitting the new rubber boot. Or is this is what the CV boot tool is for? Which is recommended for the Fabia? Is it doable without taking off driveshaft, I don't want to mess with inner CV joint. Watched a few videos and some mechanics take CV outer joint off, some use the cone tool (and remove driveshaft into a bench vice). Opinions please?

 

I just read the rubber boots and indeed CV joints sold by ECP/CP4L are not known for their longevity and the dealership is the best place to go. You get what you pay for etc.

I was going to buy...

GKN Lobro CV Boot Kit (Front Left or Right Outer)Product Code: 656444210

This has all the kit parts, grease and new hub nut etc. Looked good. What do you think?

 

I have no clicking noises and just caught this leak in time it seems. 

 

 

 

[sepulchrave]

Just replace the boot, the joint is held on by a snap ring IIRC.

[mpm222]

Or purchase a stretch boot and use a cone without taking the joint off. 

[bmbmdmb]

51 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Just replace the boot

Where can I get a quality boot kit? Dealers seem to sell everything individually. If the reviews (on here 2018) are that the boot lasts two years and then splits then I should steer clear of ECP. ECP took over Andrew Page, so they are gone, Bullseye is my local motor factors, never used them for CV boots. They seem good for some things , OEM etc and other parts, not so, eg. I had wipers last under one year which were priced highly.

 

Do I need the boot fitting cone or just remove the old CV outer joint clean and repack with grease. Which grease? Apparently, the outer CV uses molybdenum grey grease and the inner CV joint is yellow? 

 

Do the washers, snap ring need replacing, hence the kit if I disturb the CV joint? 

This video was useful and straightforward.

The ball joint is disconnected. Other videos on other cars show the steering arm disconnected. Can I get away without doing this to avoid upsetting tracking?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

33 minutes ago, mpm222 said:

stretch boot

Yes, I've seen these, are they not the equivalent of exhaust wrap and don't last long?

 

 

[sepulchrave]

Stretch boots are turds, you don't need to remove the track rod end if the driveshaft will come out, you do if it won't, try it and see.

[bmbmdmb]

Found this recent link.

 

So I'm going to need the CV joint puller tool, crimp pliers. Any other new tools? I read a brass hammer, but seems overkill if I have that puller.

 

Steering arm...I had the hub off the other side a few years ago to change hub (carrier threads stripped). I seem to remember taking it off driveshaft and having to put back on briefly because I'd not undone to steering arm nut and it had no counterforce when trying to undo it. 

 

So I don't think I need to remove steering arm. 

 

Going to get GKN kit (Dark side sell it so it must be okay?!)

 

[sepulchrave]

58 minutes ago, bmbmdmb said:

Darkside sell it so it must be okay?!

 

It just means they can buy it cheap and sell it dear.

[TMB]

1 hour ago, bmbmdmb said:

So I'm going to need the CV joint puller tool

 

You can tap the CV joint off the driveshaft with a hammer but it's easier with the puller.

Edited 3 December, 2022 by TMB

[cello]

Get the puller, you probably can smack it off with a copper mallet but there aint much swing room in the wheel arch .....get the puller and a breaking bar/torque wrench, I had to put alot of effort to get the CV joint off but then it popped off.....I thought I had broken summit!

 

Dont get the stretch boot , get a normal boot . When you mix , stretch rubber , grease and dirty hands you will be cussing with a stretch. Metal straps do up with mole grips .

 

This was the messiest job  have ever done , so also get some cheap gloves and a bowl of hot soapy water ready......ENJOY

[TMB]

3 hours ago, cello said:

Metal straps do up with mole grips .

 

You can't do a proper crimp with mole grips. Flat jaws are no good, you need a tool that can pinch.

 

 

Edited 4 December, 2022 by TMB

[bmbmdmb]

I got the proper pinch tool and CV joint puller. 

Do I need a vice to use that CV joint puller and therefore take off the driveshaft.

 

The steering arm doesn't need disconnecting just the ball joint , undoing the X3 13mm bolts. 

 

I got the puller on in situ but off course once I get some torque on the driveshaft spins...

 

[bmbmdmb]

Part number below front left

Yes, it's messy. I got gloves

[bmbmdmb]

On 03/12/2022 at 23:02, cello said:

Dont get the stretch boot , get a normal boot

Y, not buying stretch.

I went to local bullseye. The kit £11 with "all bits". I asked if hub nut present, washers etc. Dutifully arrived later in week and kit contains only the CV boot and two metal pinch straps. 

 

I bought the GKN kit from CP4l. Photo and assistant said it got everything shown in photo for £17 minus discount. 

 

I'm picking up tomorrow. If I'm disappointed then it's the dealer.

 

The puller only just fits over the CV joint metal cup. I had to remove paint that I added over years.

 

Edited 11 December, 2022 by bmbmdmb

[bmbmdmb]

Haynes states if the driveshaft is removed a new inner CV joint to transmission flange is needed. 

You can bet there isn't one in the kit I'm picking up tomorrow. 

Thinking it might have easier to fit a whole new driveshaft....

[sepulchrave]

14 minutes ago, bmbmdmb said:

Haynes states if the driveshaft is removed a new inner CV joint to transmission flange is needed. 

You can bet there isn't one in the kit I'm picking up tomorrow. 

Thinking it might have easier to fit a whole new driveshaft....

 

...or you could just ignore the manual and crack on, you'll need a new hub nut, not a flange.

[bmbmdmb]

13 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

new hub nut,

It's in the kit I'm picking up tomorrow.

 

Q1How to stop driveshaft spinning?

 

This?

Front wheels off ground on jack stands. Reading around someone suggested resting other wheel on front axle back on ground to stop other driveshaft turning. 

 

I took front left caliper off carrier for more access. Droplinks still attached.

 

Q2 do I need to disconnect droplinks or anything else if other wheel rests on ground?

 

Q3 Can I use CV joint puller whilst driveshaft on car?

 

 

Laser seems to use tool whilst in situ, on car.

 

 

 

 

Thanks

[sepulchrave]

Leave it on the car, do it in situ, the hub nut is not that tight but I undid mine before jacking it up, you could do it with a rattle gun if you have one, failing that put two of the wheel bolts back in and lock the hub with a long lever against the ground while you undo it.

[HeavyMetalRich]

Put the car in a high gear to get a bit of resistance against the drive shaft turning. It will still be able to turn but it will take more force to do so.

[bmbmdmb]

Thanks

54 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

hub nut is

I'm further on than that!

[bmbmdmb]

12 minutes ago, HeavyMetalRich said:

high gear

Car is in neutral at mo. I'll try CV joint puller with car in 6th gear. Thanks Rich

 

Is the resistance of the outer CV joint the snap ring / circlip under outer CV joint or something else? 

 

Anymore advice appreciated. I never done CV joint before, but replaced whole suspension, bushes, ball joints, track rods etc. 

 

Will the outer CV joint go back on easier than it is coming off? It is turning into a real PITA job.

 

Cheers

[HeavyMetalRich]

Yeah the snap ring is inside the joint and it's this the puller has to overcome. You'll see it when the joint comes off.

[sepulchrave]

Snap ring, refitting is easier, just wallop it with a big copper mallet.

[J.R.]

I want me one of those pullers!!!

[bmbmdmb]

41 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I want me one of those pullers!!!

I bought for £15, but it wouldn't stand up to professional use. The two bolts have started to get flattened threads despite correct use and oiling. The laser one is £100 mark though. 

 

Watch what happens at 17mins 21s (crack!). He is giving it the beans though.

 

First 30s of video is rather nice too. 

 

 

 

 

 

[bmbmdmb]

Ok, I had another go this pm. 

Watching both videos I posted above involving CV joint puller I realised the problem. My outer CV joint metal cup is too wide for the puller. The two metal prongs touch the CV joint jamming it.

See photo

 

 

The end of the puller goes over the hub nut threads but then is a few cm from touching the CV joint over the threads that engage the wheel bearing - gap between my thumb and index finger.

 

See photo

 

Tightening the 12 point 35mm hub nut only serves to squeeze apart the two puller prongs. I took the clamp out btw of the puller. Reversing the tool, the hole at end is wider than the threads so this not the issue. 

 

I only seen this tool and those for use on trucks. Surely a Fabia doesn't have the largest CV joint of all cars? 

Distance between prongs of puller is 9.8cm

 

I put driveshaft back on hub and ball joint back on. Probably going to take to garage 1/4 mile away and bag CV joint and tape ends to protect.

 

Seems to be one of those jobs which is seldom done and needs pricier tools.

 

I had to hammer prongs to position. Risks damage to threads when tightening if offset.